2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in.
1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in.
2 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18 in.
1 stretcher, 3/4 by 8 by 33-1/2 in.
2 end slats, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in.
1 back slat, 3/8 by 8 by 15-1/2 in.
2 back slats, 3/8 by 3 by 15-1/2 in.
1 front drawer rail, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 31-1/4 in.
2 side drawer rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18-1/4 in.
1 drawer front, 3/4 by 6 by 30 in.
1 desk lid, 3/4 by 18 by 31-1/4 in.
1 desk board, 3/4 by 19-1/4 by 31-1/4 in.
2 end boards, 3/4 by 19 by 21-1/4 in.
1 top board, 3/4 by 10 by 34 in.
1 top back board, 3/4 by 5 by 31-1/4 in.
1 back board, 3/4 by 30 by 22 in.
2 drawer sides, 1/2 by 6 by 19-1/2 in., S.W.
1 drawer end, 1/2 by 6 by 29 in., S.W.
1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 18 by 29 in., S.W.
2 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 7 by 23 in., S.W.
8 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 4 by 6-3/4 in., S.W.
Start with the back posts, being sure they are square and of the right length; place them side by side and lay out the mortises for the lower rails, the desk rails and the top back boards, as shown in the accompanying detail drawing. Lay out the front posts in the same manner.
Cut the tenons on the ends of the rails to fit the mortises in the posts. Also cut mortises in the rails for the back and end slats. The end rails have a mortise in them for the tenons on the ends of the foot boards. Clamp the ends of the desk together, with the end rails in place; then fit the side boards. Bore holes through the posts into the side boards for dowels as shown. After the dowels are in place the holes can be plugged.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Writing Desk]
Cut and fit the top back board, the bottom rail, the back board and the stretcher. Cut the top and desk boards at the back corners to clear the posts. The top board is to be fastened to the side boards with blind screws. The back board is fastened to the posts with dowels as shown.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Desk Complete]
When all the parts fit square and tight they can be glued together. The ends of the desk should be glued up first and left to dry, then the other parts put in place and glued. When clamping the parts together see that they fit perfectly square and tight. While the glue is drying the drawer can be made. The front board is made of oak, but the other parts may be made of some soft wood. The side pieces are mortised and glued to the front board, The end and bottom boards can be nailed together.
The drop lid of the desk is made as shown. Two or more boards may have to be glued together for the lid, the desk bottom and the back board.
The lid is fastened to the desk board with two hinges, and it should be so arranged that when closed it will be even with the sides. Brackets or chains are fastened to the inside to hold it in the proper position when it is open. Small blocks of wood fastened to the inner edge of the side boards will prevent it from closing too far. A lock, if desired, can be purchased at a hardware store and fitted in place. Suitable handles for the drawer should also be provided.
When the desk is complete go over it with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots. Sc.r.a.pe all glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is any glue.
The pigeonholes are made from 3/8-in. stock. They may be tacked in place after the desk is finished.
The finish can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. If the desk is well made and finished, it will have a very neat and attractive appearance.
A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL
The stand shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.tration is for use with a desk telephone. The stool when not in use, slides on two runners under the stand. A shelf is provided for the telephone directory, paper, pencil, etc.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Stand and Stool Complete]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Stand and Stool]
The joints may be made with dowels, or the mortise and tenon may be used, as desired. If the latter is decided upon, allowance must be made on the length of the rails for the tenons. The list given is for the dowel-made joints. The following stock list gives the amount of material needed which should be ordered planed and sanded. This work can be done by hand if the builder has the time and desires to have an entire home-made article. However, the list is given for the mill-planed material.
STAND
4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 29 in.
2 rails, 7/8 by 5 by 11 in.
1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 13 in.
1 rail, 7/8 by 5 by 13 in.
2 runners, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 14 in.
1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 20 in.
1 shelf, 7/8 by 12-7/8 by 13-3/4 in.
STOOL
4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 17 in.
4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 6-1/2 in.
4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 6-1/2 in.
1 stretcher, 7/8 by 4 by 7-1/4 in.
1 top, 7/8 by 12-1/2 in. square.
The exact lengths for the posts are given in the list. Should the builder desire to square them up, allowance must be made for this when ordering stock.
Arrange all the pieces in the position they are to occupy in the finished stand and stool and number all the joints. Locate the centers and bore holes for all the dowels. a.s.semble the two sides of the table first. Notch the runners and fasten them to the posts with flat-head screws. Use hot glue on the dowel joints if possible.
Cut the corners out of the shelf to fit the legs and a.s.semble the frame of the table. Use round-head screws through the rails to hold the shelf.
The top may be fastened in two ways, with screws through cleats on the inside of the rails and under the top, or with screws slanting through the upper part of the rails and into the top as shown. The stool, is a.s.sembled in the same manner as the stand.
The stand and stool should be finished to harmonize with the furniture and woodwork of the room in which they are to be used.
HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL
Secure a piece of steel about 1/4 in. thick, 1-3/4 in. wide and 8 in.
long. Drill various sized holes through the steel as shown in Fig. 1, leaving the edge of each hole as sharp as the drill will make them. Cut off a block of wood the length necessary for the dowels and split it up into pieces about the size for the particular dowel to be used. Lay the steel on something flat, over a hole of some kind, then start one of the pieces of wood in the proper size hole for the dowel and drive it through with a hammer, as shown in Fig. 2. The sharp edges on the steel will cut the dowel as smooth and round as if it were turned in a lathe.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Easy Way to Make Dowels]
A MEDICINE CABINET