4 rails, 1 by 1 by 7 in., S-4-S.
8 slats, 1/2 by 1/2 by 3-1/2 in., S-4-S.
Arrange the pieces as they are to be in the finished rack and number both parts of each joint. There will be twelve lap joints, and great care must be taken to mark them accurately and to cut to exactly half the depth of each piece.
First fit the posts and rails of the ends. To mark the width of each notch, lay the piece which is to fit into the notch upon it and thus get the exact size. Knife lines must be used for the width and light gauge lines for the depth of each notch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of the Bookrack]
Next lay out and cut joints between the stretchers and ends.
In each end there are four slats which should be mortised into the rails 1/4 in. Glue the pieces in place and clamp them with handscrews.
A rubber-headed tack in the bottom of each post will prevent the marring of the surface upon which the rack is to rest.
[Ill.u.s.tration: The Complete Bookrack]
Mission, weathered or fumed-oak stain will look well. A waxed finish should be used. Before applying the wax, it is well to use a very thin coat of sh.e.l.lac as a foundation. Let this coat stand for a few hours and allow an interval of at least an hour between applying the coats of wax.
Should the rack wind a little, it may be remedied by cutting off part of two diagonally opposite racks.
A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE
[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of the Table]
This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white oak. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, to secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If the veneering is properly done these will serve the purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the white-pine core, being an advantage. The circular facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then veneering the outer surface of this. Order the following stock:
4 legs, 3 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 leg, 5 by 5 by 30-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 rails, 1-1/8 by 5 by 23 in., S-2-S.
4 facing segments, 1-1/8 by 3-1/4 in. on a 24-in. radius.
1 top, 1-1/8 in. thick on a 27-in. radius, S-2-S; 3 extra boards, 1-1/8 by 12 by 55 in., S-2-S.
4 slides, 1-1/8 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
2 slides, 1-1/4 by 2-3/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
4 frame pieces, 7/8 by 3 by 9 in., S-4-S, maple.
2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 6 by 28 in., S-4-S, maple.
2 frame pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 23-1/2 in., S-4-S, maple.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Table for the Dining-Room Set]
There are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the other. Several patented devices are on the market that permit a ready adjustment with but little effort and are used extensively by commercial manufacturers. The amateur will do well to secure a set before he undertakes to work these slides to shape.
Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Lay out and work the mortises. The ends of the facings are to be tenoned and housed into the posts. Prepare the rails by cutting the tenons and shaping the lower edges as shown in the drawing. Prepare the top. After this, a.s.semble this much of the frame, using plenty of clamps and good hot glue.
Next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown.
There will be needed plenty of glue blocks for reinforcing the facing where it is fastened to the top, etc.
For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. Upon this, after it has hardened and been sanded with No. 00 paper, apply a coat of sh.e.l.lac.
Upon the sh.e.l.lac apply successively several coats of some good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with haircloth and the final coat with pulverized pumice and crude or linseed oil.
If an effect is wanted that will contrast, stain the wood first with a water stain. Sand this lightly when dry, then apply a second coat of stain diluted one-half with water. Again sand and then apply a thin coat of sh.e.l.lac. Sand this lightly, and apply the filler and the varnish as described above.
AN ARM DINING CHAIR
[Ill.u.s.tration: Armchair of the Dining-Room Set]
This armchair will look well if made of plain-sawed oak. Quarter-sawed oak might be used, or black walnut if desired. The stock bill specifies the various parts mill-planed to size as far as possible. If some amateur craftsman should prefer to do his own surfacing, thereby saving somewhat on the expense, he should add 1/4 in. to the width of each piece, providing the stock is mill-planed to thickness. It is hardly profitable to get stock entirely in the rough if the work is to be done by hand. The following is the stock bill:
2 front posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
1 piece for back posts, 1-3/4 by 6 by 43 in., S-2-S.
2 arm pieces, 7/8 by 4 by 24-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
2 seat rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
4 lower side rails, 5/8 by 1-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
2 front and back lower rails, 5/8 by 2-3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
1 back rail, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.
2 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 slat, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 braces, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 5-1/2 in., S-2-S.
The design shown is for a chair in which the width of front and back is the same. Also the back leg parallels the front below the seat. In commercial practice the backs are usually made somewhat narrower than the fronts and the back leg is slanted somewhat below the seat as well as above. As this construction necessitates sloping shoulders on all tenons it complicates the problem when the work is not done by machinery. The ambitious amateur may readily get the proportion of slant by measuring common chairs. For mission effects the chair looks well with front and back the same width.
Prepare the front posts first and then the rear. The rear posts are to be cut from the single piece of stock specified. By proper planning both pieces may be gotten out without trouble. Lay off and cut the mortises.
Saw the rails to length and lay out and cut the tenons. The back rails are to have mortises in their edges to receive the ends of the slats.
Instead of tenoning these slats make mortises large enough to receive the whole end--in other words, house the ends.
Shape the two arms, then glue up the back and then the front of the chair. After the glue has set sufficiently, a.s.semble the remainder of the parts.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of the Armchair]
Thoroughly sc.r.a.pe and sandpaper the parts and then apply the finish.
For a seat, either a leather cushion may be placed upon slats or the bottom may be upholstered in the usual manner, using webbing on heavy canvas, and then felt or hair with a top of canvas and leather; the whole being firmly fastened with tacks and the leather with ornamental nails.
A HALL BENCH