long, S-4-S and sanded on one side. For the end rails, 2 pieces 7/8 in.
thick, 6 in. wide and 25 in. long. Other specifications as for the side rails.
For the stretchers, into which the shelf tenons enter, 2 pieces 1-1/8 in. thick, 3-3/4 in. wide and 25 in. long, surfaced and sanded on four sides. For the slats, 10 pieces 5/8 in. thick, 1-1/2 in. wide and 17 in.
long, surfaced and sanded on four sides. For the keys, 4 pieces 3/4 in.
thick, 1-1/4 in. wide and 2-7/8 in. long, S-4-S. This width is a little wide; it will allow the key to be shaped as desired.
The drawings obviate any necessity for going into detail in the description. Fig. 1 gives an a.s.sembly drawing showing the relation of the parts. Fig. 2 gives the detail of an end. The tenons for the side rails are laid off and the mortises placed in the post as are those on the end. Care must be taken, however, not to cut any mortises on the post below, as was done in cutting the stretcher mortises on the ends of the table. A good plan is to set the posts upright in the positions they are to occupy relative to one another and mark with pencil the approximate positions of the mortises. The legs can then be laid flat and the mortises accurately marked out with a fair degree of a.s.surance that they will not be cut where they are not wanted and that the legs shall "pair" properly when effort is made to a.s.semble the parts of the table.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Table Construction]
The table ends should be glued up first and the glue allowed to harden, after which the tenons of the shelf may be inserted and the side rails placed.
There is a reason for the shape, size and location of each tenon or mortise. For ill.u.s.tration, the shape of the tenon on the top rails permits the surface of the rail to extend almost flush with the surface of the post at the same time permitting the mortise in the post to be kept away from that surface. Again, the shape of the ends of the slats is such that, though they may vary slightly in length, the fitting of the joints will not be affected. Care must be taken in cutting the mortises to keep their sides clean and sharp and to size.
In making the mortises for the keyed tenons, the length of mortise must be slightly in excess of the width of the tenon--about 1/8 in. of play to each side of each tenon. With a shelf of the width specified for this table, if such allowance is not made so that the tenons may move sideways, the shrinkage would split the shelf.
In cutting across the ends of the shelf, between the tenons, leave a hole in the waste so that the turning saw or compa.s.s saw can be inserted. Saw within one-sixteenth of the line, after which this margin may be removed with chisel and mallet.
In Fig. 3 is shown two views of the keyed tenon and the key. The mortise for the key is to be placed in the middle of the tenon. It will be noted that this mortise is laid out 1-1/16 in. from the shoulder of the tenon while the stretcher is 1-1/8 in. thick. This is to insure the key"s pulling the shelf tightly against the side of the stretcher.
Keys may be made in a variety of shapes. The one shown is simple and structurally good. Whatever shape is used, the important thing to keep in mind is that the size of the key and the slant of its forward surface where it pa.s.ses through the tenon must be kept the same as the mortise made for it in the tenon.
The top is to be fastened to the rails by means either of wooden b.u.t.tons, Fig. 4, or small angle irons.
There are a bewildering number of mission finishes upon the market. A very satisfactory one is obtained by applying a coat of brown Flemish water stain, diluted by the addition of water in the proportion of two parts water to 1 part stain. When this has dried, sand with No. 00 paper, being careful not to "cut through." Next, apply a coat of dark brown filler; the directions for doing this will be found upon the can in which the filler is bought. One coat usually suffices. However, if an especially smooth surface is desired, a second coat may be applied in a similar manner.
After the filler has hardened, a very thin coat of sh.e.l.lac is to be put on. When this has dried, it should be sanded lightly and then one or two coats of wax should be properly applied and polished. Directions for waxing are upon the cans in which the wax is bought. A beautiful dull gloss so much sought by finishers of modern furniture will be the result of carefully following these directions.
HOME-MADE MISSION CANDLESTICK
There are many kinds of mission candlesticks, but few of them carry out the mission design throughout. Herewith is ill.u.s.trated a candlestick which may be made from the various woods that will have the style and lines of mission craft work. The base is made from 1-in. material, 4-1/2 in. square. Two holes are bored and countersunk for screws to hold the post and handle. The post is 2-1/4 in. high, bored in one end to fit the size of a candle. The post is covered with a 3/8-in. thick cap, 2 in.
square. This, also, is bored to fit the candle. The handle is 3/8 in.
thick and 3 in. long with a 3/8-in. square mortise and is notched to fit the base. The wood may be selected to match any other piece of furniture and finished in any of the mission stains.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Candlestick]
ANOTHER STYLE OF MISSION CHAIR
The material necessary to make a mission chair as shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.tration may be secured from a planing mill with all four surfaces squared and sandpapered. The mill can do this work quickly and the expense will be nothing compared with the time it takes to do the work by hand.
The following is the stock list:
4 legs, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 32-1/2 in.
2 bottom end rails 7/8 by 5-3/4 by 23-1/2 in.
2 bottom side rails 7/8 by 5-3/4 by 28-1/2 in.
2 top end rails 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 23-1/2 in.
1 top back rail 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 28-1/2 in.
2 cleats 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 26-1/2 in.
7 slats 1/2 by 2 by 24 in.
This design was purposely made simple. If it is considered too severe and the worker has had some experience in woodwork, it can easily be modified by adding vertical slats in back and sides. These should be made of 1/2-in. stock and their ends should be "let into" the rails by means of mortises.
Either plain red oak or quarter-sawed white oak will do. Begin by squaring up one end of each leg, marking and cutting them to length and planing up the second ends so that they shall be square. Both the top and bottom of each leg should be beveled or rounded off about 1/4 in. so that they may not splinter or cause injury to the hand.
When all of the legs have been made of the same length, set them on end in the positions they are to have relative to one another and mark with pencil the approximate locations of the mortises. Next, place them on the bench, side by side, even the ends and square sharp lines across to indicate the ends of the mortises. The drawing shows the dimensions to use. A sharp pencil should be used for this marking and the lines should be carried entirely across the two faces of each piece.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Mission Chair Complete]
Set the gauge for the side of the mortise nearest the face edge. With this setting, mark all the mortises, then set for the second side of the mortise and complete the gauging.
There are two ways of cutting small mortises in common use. One is by using a chisel of a width just equal to that of the mortise. The other is by using a smaller chisel after the mortise has first been bored with the brace and bit. In the first method the cutting is begun at the middle of the mortise where a V-shaped opening is made the full depth of the mortise that is to be. Continuing from the middle, vertical cuts are taken first toward one end and then toward the other. The chips are pried out as the cutting proceeds. In making the last cut this prying must be omitted, otherwise the edge of the mortise would be ruined. It will be necessary to stand so as to look along the opening in order to get the sides plumb.
This method of cutting, when once the "knack" has been attained, will be found much easier, quicker and more accurate for small openings, such as these, than the usual method. The second method, which is the usual one, needs no description.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Mission Chair Construction]
The rails should next have the tenons cut on their ends. It may not be out of place to remind the amateur that the lengths of the various like pieces can best be laid off by placing them on the bench, measuring off the proper distances on one of them and then with try-square marking across the edges of all of them at once. This not only saves time in that but one set of measurements need be made, but it insures all the pieces being similarly laid off. In measuring off for the shoulders of the tenons, begin at the middle of the length of the rail and measure half of the distance each way. By doing so, if there are any slight differences in the lengths of the pieces this difference will be divided between the two tenons and no harm will be done.
In gauging the tenons take the precaution to mark a working face and joint edge, even if all the surfaces were finish-planed at the mill. It is very important that all tenon gauging be done from these faces. The same is true of the legs or posts, and the slats if there are to be any.
To avoid confusion it is well to number each tenon by means of the chisel with a Roman numeral and its corresponding mortise with the same.
This will prevent the fitting of one tenon into more than one mortise.
Put the parts together with warm glue if it can be had, otherwise use the prepared cold glue. In cold weather the wood ought to be warmed before the glue is applied. Put the ends of the chair together first.
When the glue has set on these put the other rails in place.
When clamping up the second set of rails make sure the frame of the chair is square. The best way to test for squareness is to measure the diagonals with a stick. Spring the frame until they measure alike, using a brace to hold the frame in position until the glue can harden.
Before staining, sc.r.a.pe off any surplus glue, for stain will not adhere to glue and a white spot will be the result of failing to remove it.
Fasten cleats to the front and back rails with screws. To these cleats fasten the slats as shown in the drawing. A cushion of Spanish leather, such as is shown in the photograph, can be bought at the furniture store or the upholsterer"s. It can be made by the amateur quite easily, however. The two parts are fastened together with leather thongs and the filling is of hair or elastic felt. A cushion for the back might well be provided.
To finish the wood to match a brown leather proceed as follows: With a cloth or brush, stain the wood with brown Flemish water stain diluted by the addition of four parts of water. When this has dried, sandpaper smooth, using No. 00 paper held on the tips of the fingers. Apply a dark brown filler. When this has flatted, i.e., when the gloss has disappeared, which will be in the course of ten or fifteen minutes, wipe off clean with excelsior and then with waste or a cloth. Allow this to dry over night, then apply two or three coats of wax. Polish each coat with a flannel cloth by briskly rubbing it.
A settle can be made after this design by using longer front and back rails. Rails 42 in. between shoulders will make a good length for a settle.
HOW TO MAKE AND FINISH A MAGAZINE STAND