Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the truffle b.u.t.ter and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Caviar SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt cup extra virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 pound spaghetti Caviar-as much as you are willing to use (we like osetra from Russ & Daughters; see Sources) Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine the oil and b.u.t.ter in another large pot and heat over medium heat until the b.u.t.ter is melted. Remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the b.u.t.ter mixture and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl, garnish with the caviar, and serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Gla.s.s Eels SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 1 pound spaghetti 8 ounces fresh or frozen gla.s.s eels, thawed if frozen (see Note) Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute until lightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving cup of the pasta water.

Add the gla.s.s eels to the garlic oil and heat over medium-high heat, stirring, until they are opaque. Add the pasta, tossing and stirring to mix well (add a splash of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Serve immediately.

Note: Gla.s.s eels are in season for a few weeks in the spring, when you should be able to find them in a local Chinatown.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 5 ounces sliced pancetta, cut into -inch-wide strips cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 6 fresh large eggs 1 pound spaghetti cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving cup grated pecorino romano Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine the pancetta and oil in another large pot and cook over medium-high heat until the pancetta has rendered some of its fat and is lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Stir in the pepper and remove from the heat.

Separate the eggs, being careful to keep the yolks intact, putting the whites in a small bowl and the yolks in a shallow dish.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving 2 2/3 cup of the pasta water. cup of the pasta water.

Add the reserved pasta water to the pancetta and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the egg whites and cook, whisking furiously, until they are frothy but not set, about 1 minute. Add the pasta, stirring and tossing well to coat. Stir in the cheeses.

Divide the pasta among six bowls, making a nest in the center of each portion. Gently drop an egg yolk into each nest and serve immediately, advising your guests to stir the yolk into the pasta so it will cook. Pa.s.s additional grated Parmigiano on the side.

Spaghetti all"Amatriciana SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt cup extra virgin olive oil 4 ounces sliced guanciale or pancetta, or good American bacon, cut into -inch-wide strips 1 medium red onion, halved lengthwise, ends trimmed, and cut lengthwise into -inch-wide slices cup tomato paste 1 to 2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes cup Pom strained tomatoes, simmered until reduced by half 1 pound spaghetti cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving cup grated pecorino romano 1/3 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh Italian parsley cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh Italian parsley Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine the oil, guanciale, and onion in another large pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until the guanciale is lightly browned and the onion is softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the tomato sauce and remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the guanciale and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Stir in the cheeses and parsley and serve immediately, with additional grated Parmigiano on the side.

Spaghetti alla Gricia SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt cup extra virgin olive oil 4 ounces sliced guanciale or pancetta, or good American bacon, cut into -inch-wide strips 1 medium red onion, halved lengthwise, ends trimmed, and cut lengthwise into -inch-wide slices 1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 1 pound spaghetti cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving cup grated pecorino romano 1/3 cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh Italian parsley cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh Italian parsley Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine the oil, guanciale, and onion in another large pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until the guanciale is lightly browned and the onion is softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in the pepper and remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the guanciale and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Stir in the cheeses and parsley and serve immediately, with additional grated Parmigiano on the side.

Spaghetti con la Sarde SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

1 pounds fresh sardines or 6 ounces good canned sardines from Spain 1 large fennel bulb Kosher salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon fennel seeds 1 pound spaghetti 1 teaspoon fennel pollen (optional) 2 teaspoons minced or grated orange zest cup coa.r.s.e fresh bread crumbs, fried in olive oil until golden brown (see Glossary) If using fresh sardines, sc.r.a.pe off any scales with a blunt knife; cut off the fins. Cut off the head and tail of each fish and slit it open down the stomach. Pull out the backbone and the guts (a messy job but quite easy). Open out the fish, and cut the two fillets apart. Rinse the sardines well under cold water to remove any blood, and pat dry. Coa.r.s.ely chop the sardines (fresh or canned).

Trim the fennel bulb, and reserve the fronds. Halve and core the fennel bulb and cut into -inch dice. Chop enough of the reserved fronds to make cup, and reserve for garnish.

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, heat cup of the oil in another large pot over medium heat. Add the fennel seeds and cook, stirring, until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 1 minute. Add the diced fennel and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the sardines and cook, stirring occasionally, until just opaque throughout, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the sardines and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, then stir in half of the chopped fennel fronds, half the fennel pollen, if using, half the orange zest, and half the bread crumbs.

Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl and scatter the remaining fennel fronds, pollen, zest, and bread crumbs over the top. Serve immediately.

Linguine with Cacio e Pepe SERVES 6.

Kosher salt cup coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 pound dried linguine cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving cup grated pecorino romano Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

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