The name marmalade is from the Portuguese, which is marmelo.

The quince is a fruit that cannot be eaten in its raw state, but is most delicious in jam, jelly marmalade and quince b.u.t.ter, and vies with apple and guava as the best fruit for jelly making.

The large, smooth fruit is the first choice, and it must be carefully handled as it bruises quickly; parts which are bruised very rapidly discolor to a dark brown. To keep the quinces any length of time, wipe them frequently with a dry cloth, and set on a wire tray so that there may be a free circulation of air around the place, and place in a cool, dry and well-ventilated room.

The seeds of the quince are rich in a mucilage-like matter, and they form a jelly-like paste when soaked in water.

FANCY QUINCE MARMALADE

Prepare the quinces as for Roman quince marmalade and measure the fruit. To four quarts of cooked quinces and juice add

One package of seedless raisins, One medium-sized bottle of maraschino cherries, cut into tiny bits, Two cups of finely chopped almonds or other nuts, Two and one-half quarts of granulated sugar.

Place in the preserving kettle and bring to a boil. Cook slowly until a thick marmalade and then fill into sterilized jars. Adjust the rubber and lid and seal. Process in a hot water bath for fifteen minutes and then store in a cool, dry place.

QUINCE JELLY

Wash the quinces and then cut in half, and remove the seeds and cores and pare. Cut the pared quince in thin slices and then place in a bowl and cover with cold water.

Place the parings and seeds of the quinces in a preserving kettle, and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook until the parings are very soft. Mash frequently and turn into a jelly bag, and let drip.

Measure the quince juice or liquid and return it to the preserving kettle. Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Then add three-quarters cup of sugar for each cup of juice. Stir to thoroughly dissolve the sugar and then bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes.

Pour into sterilized gla.s.ses. Cool and cover with melted paraffin and store in the usual manner for jellies.

Now place the quinces which were cut into thin slices and cover with cold water in the preserving kettle, covering the sliced quinces with water two inches above the fruit in the kettle. Bring to a boil and then cook slowly until the sliced quinces are soft. Drain off the juice and then measure the cooked fruit. Return to the kettle and add

One quart of sugar, One cup of water

to every three quarts of cooked sliced quinces. Place on stove and cook slowly until a very thick jam. Fill in sterilized jars and adjust the rubber and lid and seal. Process in hot water bath for fifteen minutes and then cool and store.

Use the liquid strained from the cooked quinces for jelly, following the rule for quince jelly.

ROMAN QUINCE MARMALADE

Wash the quinces, and then pare and cut into thin slices. Place in a preserving kettle and cover with cold water. Place on the stove and cook until tender. Now place the parings, cores and seeds in a separate kettle and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook slowly until the pulp is very soft. Strain and add this liquid to the quinces which are cooking. Cook the quinces until very soft. Then mash through a fine sieve.

Now measure this crushed pulp and juice and return to the preserving kettle. Bring to a boil and cook for fifteen minutes, and add two-thirds quart of sugar for every quart of the prepared quince pulp.

Stir the sugar until it dissolves and then bring to a boil, and cook slowly until the mixture is a thick jam. Pour into sterilized gla.s.ses or bowls and cool. Cover with melted paraffin.

This Roman quince marmalade was accredited with the power to heal coughs and colds.

QUINCE CHIPS

Wash and pare one dozen quinces, and then cut into quarters and remove the cores. Now cut into thin slices and place in a preserving kettle, and cover with cold water. Cook until tender and then cover the parings, cores and seeds with cold water, and cook until very soft.

Strain off the liquid and return this liquid to the preserving kettle and boil to reduce to two cups; then add four pounds of sugar. Stir to thoroughly dissolve the sugar and then boil until it forms a thread when tested from the p.r.o.ngs of a fork. Now add the well-drained quinces that have been cooked until they are tender, and let the mixture simmer for two hours.

Remove the kettle and set aside overnight. The next morning reheat the quinces and let boil for two hours.

Set aside for twenty-four hours and repeat for three days. Turn into a sieve or put through a colander to drain. When well drained and nearly dry, separate each piece of quince and roll in granulated sugar. Let dry in a warm room and then pack into boxes lined with wax paper.

Place wax paper between the layers. The liquor drained from the quinces may be placed in gla.s.ses and stored for quince jelly. This delicious Greek confection was served at banquets and on all gala occasions.

BEEF CROQUETTES

One and one-half cups of finely cooked beef, One cup of very thick cream sauce, One teaspoon of salt, One teaspoon of paprika, One teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, One-quarter teaspoon of mustard, Two tablespoons of grated onion.

Mix thoroughly and then form into croquettes and roll lightly in flour. Dip in beaten egg and then in fine crumbs, and fry until golden brown in hot fat.

SPANISH STEAK

Have the butcher cut two pounds from either the round or the chuck steak and then wipe with a damp cloth. Now pat well with flour and lay on a baking dish. Place in a hot oven and baste every ten minutes, using about one cup of boiling water. Cook for twenty minutes and then add

One cup of sliced onions, One cup of well-drained tomatoes.

Return to the oven and bake for fifteen minutes and then remove and season with salt and paprika and four tablespoons of grated cheese.

Return to the oven for five minutes.

JUST A PIG"S HEAD AND SET OF FEET

Have the butcher split the head and then cleanse, removing the brain and tongue. Discard the eyes. Then wash in plenty of cold water and cleanse thoroughly. Place the head, feet and tongue in a large preserving kettle and cover with cold water and add

One and one-half cups of sliced onions, Two carrots, cut in dice, One and one-half cups of dried celery leaves, One-half ounce of celery seed, One-half ounce of mustard seed, One tablespoon of thyme, One tablespoon of sage, One tablespoon of sweet marjoram, One dozen whole allspice, One bunch of potherbs.

Bring to a boil and skim frequently and cook until the meat on the head and feet is tender. Remove the head, feet and tongue and boil the liquid for ten minutes to reduce. Strain and then measure. To two and one-half quarts of this stock add

One tablespoon of black pepper, Three tablespoons of salt, Two cups of oatmeal, Three cups of cornmeal, One cup of whole-wheat flour,

and then meat, chopped fine from the set of pig"s feet. Cook slowly, stirring frequently. Cook until very thick, like mush, on the back part of the range, and then rinse a square loaf-shaped pan with cold water. Pour in the sc.r.a.pple and then place the balance of the stock, three pints, in a preserving kettle and add one cup of vinegar.

Bring to a boil and cook for fifteen minutes to reduce. Add the meat, removed from the head and cut into neat pieces. Rinse a loaf-shaped pan with cold water, and then pour in the mince. Set in a cool place to mould.

The sc.r.a.pple may be formed into croquettes and dipped in flour and fried until golden brown, or it may be cut into thin slices and fried in the usual manner. Cut the head cheese in slices and serve with mustard sauce.

Cook the brains for breakfast or luncheon.

CANDY

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