The further we burrowed into the fastnesses of the Roya, the more wild in its majestic beauty grew the valley, so famed in history and legend.
The gorge had again become a mere gash in the rock, with room only for the road and the roaring river below. High overhead, standing up against the sky like a warning finger, towered the ancient stronghold of Piena, once guardian fortress of the valley; where the way curved, and crossed a high bridge spanning the torrent, we pa.s.sed a tablet of gleaming bronze set against the rock wall, in commemoration of Ma.s.sena"s victory in an early campaign of Napoleon"s against Italy. Sometimes we rushed through tunnels, where the noise of the motor vibrated thunderously; sometimes we looked down over sublime precipices; but the road was always good now, and we had no longer to fear side-slip.
We met no one; nevertheless Terry got down and lit our lamps, Dalmar-Kalm making an unnecessary delay by insisting that Joseph should light his too. This was sheer vanity on the Prince"s part. He could not bear to have his great Bleriots dark, while our humbler acetylene illumined the way for His Mightiness.
Suddenly we ran out of the bewildering lights and shadows, woven across our way by the moon, into the lights of a town; and two _douaniers_ appeared in the road, holding up their hands for us to stop. Down jumped Terry to see why he should be challenged in this unexpected place, and the Prince joined him.
"Your papers, if you please," demanded the official.
Terry produced those which had been given us at the custom-house in Grimaldi.
"But these are Italian papers. Where are those for France?" asked the _douanier_.
"This is not France," said the Prince, before Terry could speak.
"It is Breil, and it is France," returned the man. "France for nine kilometres, until Fontan, where Italian territory begins again."
Terry laughed, rather ruefully. "Well," said he, "I have no French papers, but we paid a penny at the Pont St. Louis to leave France. This car is French, and we ought not to pay anything to enter; nevertheless, I shall be delighted to hand you the same sum for the privilege of coming in again."
"Ah, you paid ten centimes? Then, if you have the receipt it may be possible to permit you to go on."
"Permit us to go on!" echoed Dalmar-Kalm angrily. "I should think so, indeed."
"I"m sorry, I took no receipt," said Terry. "I thought it an unnecessary formality."
"_No_ formality is unnecessary, monsieur," said the servant of form. "I also am sorry, but in the circ.u.mstances you cannot enter French territory without a receipt for the ten centimes. As a man I believe implicitly that you paid the sum, as an official I am compelled to doubt your word."
Who but a Frenchman could have been so exquisitely pompous over a penny?
I saw by Terry"s face that he was far from considering the incident closed; but he had too much true Irish tact to try and get us through by storming.
"Let us consider," he began, "whether there is not some means of escape from this difficulty."
But Dalmar-Kalm was in no mood to temporize, or keep silent while others temporized. The lights of Breil showed that it was a town of comparative importance; it was past eight o"clock; and no doubt His Highness"s temper was sharpened by a keen edge of hunger. That he--he should be stopped by a fussy official figure-head almost within smell of food, broke down the barrier of his self-restraint--never a formidable rampart, as we had cause to know. In a few loud and vigorous sentences he expressed a withering contempt for France, its inst.i.tutions, its customs, and especially its custom-houses.
"If you"d mix up the Prince"s initials, as you do Mr. Barrymore"s sometimes, and call him Kalmar-Dalm, there"d be some excuse for it,"
Beechy Kidder murmured to the Countess.
"Hush, he"ll hear!" implored the much-enduring lady, but there was small danger that His Highness would hear any expostulations save his own.
The functionary"s eye grew dark, and Terry frowned. Had the _douanier_ been insolent, my peppery Irishman would have been insolent too, perhaps, in the hope of cowering the man by truculence more swashbuckling than his own; but he had been as polite as his countrymen proverbially are, if not goaded out of their suavity. "Look here, Prince," said Terry, hanging onto his temper by a thread (for he also was hungry), "suppose you leave this matter to me. If you"ll take the ladies to the best hotel in town, Moray and I will stop and see this thing through. We"ll follow when we can."
Dalmar-Kalm snapped at the suggestion; our pa.s.sengers saw that it was for the best, and yielded. As they moved away, a shadowy form hovered in their wake. It was the little black dog of Airole.
The Marquis of Innisfallen"s first quarrel with his brother had been caused by Terry"s youthful preference for an army instead of a diplomatic career. Now, could his cantankerous relative have seen my friend, he would once more have shaken his head over talents wasted. The oily eloquence which Terry lavished on that comparatively insignificant French _douanier_ ought to have earned him a billet as first secretary to a Legation. He pictured the despair of the ladies if the power of France kept them prisoners at the frontier; he referred warmly to that country"s reputation for chivalry; he offered to pay the usual deposit on a car entering France and receive it back again at Fontan. To this last suggestion the hara.s.sed official replied that technically his office was closed for the night, and that after eight o"clock he could not receive money or issue papers. Finally, therefore, Terry was reduced to appealing to the cleverness and resource of a true Frenchman.
It was a neat little fencing-match, which ended in the triumph of Great Britain. The functionary, treated like a gentleman by a gentleman, became anxious to accommodate, if he could do so "consistently with honour." He had an inspiration, and suggested that he would strain his duty by sending a messenger with us to Fontan, there to explain that we were merely _en pa.s.sage_. Out of the crowd which had collected a loutish youth was chosen; a _pourboire_ promised; and after many mutual politenesses we were permitted to _teuf-teuf_ onto the sacred soil of France.
It is no more safe to judge a French country inn by its exterior, than the soul of Cyrano de Bergerac by his nose. The inn of Breil had not an engaging face, but it was animated by the spirit of a Brillat Savarin, by which we were provided with a wonderful dinner in numerous courses.
We could not escape from it, lest we hurt the _amour-propre_ of the cook, and it was late when we were ready for our last _sortie_.
"You will never reach San Dalmazzo to-night, towing that car," we were informed by the powers that were in the hotel. "The hills you have pa.s.sed are as nothing to the hills yet to come. You will do well to spend the night with us, for if you try to get on, you will be all night upon the road."
Our pa.s.sengers were asked to decide, and we expected a difference of opinion. We should have said that the two girls would have been for pushing on, and the Countess for stopping. But that plump lady had already conquered the tremors which, earlier in the day, had threatened to wreck our expedition at its outset.
"It"s a funny thing," said she, "but I want to go on, just _on_, for the sake of _going_. I never felt like that before, travelling, not even in a Mann Boudoir car at home, which I guess is the most luxurious thing on wheels. I always wanted to _get_ there, wherever "there" was; but now I want to go on and on--I wouldn"t care if it was to the end of the world, and I can"t think why, unless it"s the novelty of automobiling. But it can"t be that, either, I suppose, for only a little while ago I was thinking that bed-ridden people weren"t badly off, they were so _safe_."
We all laughed at this (even the Prince, whom plenty of champagne had put into a sentimental mood), and I suddenly found myself growing quite fond of the Countess, crowns and all.
After the heat of the _salle a manger_, the night out of doors appeared strangely white and cold, its purple depths drenched with moonlight, the high remoteness of its dome faintly scintillant with icy points of stars. An adventure seemed to lie before us. We turned wistfully to each other for the warmth of human companionship, and had not the Prince been trying to flirt with little Beechy unseen by Mamma, I should have felt kindly even to him. Even as it was, I consented to let him try sitting in his own car, and the rope, inured to suffering, had the consideration not to break.
We forged on, up, up the higher reaches of the Roya valley, so glorious in full moonlight that it struck us into silence. The mountains towering round us shaped themselves into castles and cathedrals of carved marble, their facades, grey by day, glittering white and polished under the magic of the moon. The wonderful crescent town of Saorge, hanging on the mountain-side, would alone have been worth coming this way to see if there had been nothing else. Veiled by the mystery of night, the old Ligurian stronghold appeared to be suspended between two rocky peaks, like a great white hammock for a sleeping G.o.ddess, and now and then we caught a jewelled sparkle from her rings.
They had not told an idle tale at the inn. The road, weary of going up-hill on its knees, like a pilgrim, got suddenly upon its feet and we were on its back, with the Prince"s chariot trailing after us.
Nevertheless, our car did not falter, though the motor panted. Scarcely ever were we able to pa.s.s from the first speed to the second, but then (as Beechy remarked), considering all things, we ought to be thankful for any speed above that of a snail.
At Fontan--when he had vouched for us--we dismissed our _oaf_, with a light heart and a heavy pocket. Again, we were in Italy, a silent, sleeping Italy, drugged with moonlight, and dreaming troubled dreams of strangely contorted mountains. Then suddenly it waked, for the moon was sinking, and the charm had lost its potence. The dream-shapes vanished, and we were in a wide, dark basin, which might be green as emerald by day. A grey ghost in a long coat, with a rifle slung across his back, flitted into the road and startled the Countess by signing for us to stop.
"Oh, mercy! are we going to be held up?" she whispered. "I"d forgotten about the brigands."
"Only an Italian custom-house brigand," said Terry. "We"ve got to San Dalmazzo after all, and it isn"t morning yet."
"Yes, but it is!" cried Beechy. "There"s a clock striking twelve."
A few minutes later we were driving along a level in the direction of the monastery-hotel, which was said to be no more than a hundred metres beyond the village. I had often heard of this hostelry at the little mountain retreat of San Dalmazzo, loved and sought by Italians in the summer heat. The arched gateway in the wall was clearly monastic, and we felt sure that we had come to the right place, when Terry steered the car through the open portal and a kind of tunnel on the other side.
Before the door of a long, low building he stopped the motor. Its "thrum, thrum" stilled, the silence of the place was profound, and not a light gleamed anywhere.
Terry got down and rang. We all waited anxiously, for much as we had enjoyed the strange night drive, the day had been long, and the chill of the keen mountain air was in our blood. But nothing happened, and after a short pause Terry rang again. Silence was the only answer, and it seemed to give denial rather than consent.
Four times he rang, and by this time the Prince and I were at his back, striving to pierce the darkness behind the door which was half of gla.s.s.
At last a greenish light gleamed dim as a glow-worm in the distance, and framed in it a figure was visible--the figure of a monk.
For an instant I was half inclined to believe him a ghost, haunting the scene of past activities, for one does not expect to have the door of an hotel opened by a monk. But ghosts have no traffic with keys and bolts; and it was the voice of a man still bound to flesh and blood who greeted us with a mild "_Buona sera_" which made the night seem young.
Terry responded and announced in his best Italian that we desired accommodation for the night.
"Ah, I see," exclaimed the monk. "You thought that this was still a hotel? I am sorry to disappoint you, but it ceased to be such only to-day. The house is now once more what it was originally--a monastery.
It has been bought by the Order to which I belong."
"Isn"t he going to take us in?" asked the Countess, dolefully.
"I"m afraid not," said Terry, "but I"ll see what I can do."
Ah, that "seeing what he could do!" I knew it of old, for Terry"s own brother is the only person I ever met who could resist him if he stooped to wheedle. Italian is a language which lends itself to wheedling, too; and though the good monk demurred at first, shook his head, and even flung up his hands with a despairing protest, he weakened at last, even as the _douanier_ had weakened.
"He says if we"d come to-morrow, it would have been impossible to admit us," translated Terry for the ladies" benefit. "The lease is going to be signed then. Until that"s done the house isn"t actually a monastery, so he can strain a point and take us in, rather than the ladies should have to travel further so late at night. I don"t suppose we shall find very luxurious accommodation, but--"
"It will be perfectly lovely," broke in Beechy, "and Maida, anyhow, will feel quite at home."
"He won"t accept payment, that"s the worst of it," said Terry, "for we shall make the poor man, who is all alone, a good deal of bother. Still, I shall offer something for the charities of his Order, and he can"t refuse that."