But if most of its individuality and character have vanished, its sanitary condition and its wealth, have, we must admit, improved greatly under the new regime. "When I walk through the enormous streets and boulevards of new Paris," says a well-known writer, "I feel appalled by the change, but unable to dispute with it mentally, for it bears the imprint of an idea which is becoming dominant over Europe. For the moment the individuality of man as expressed in his dwelling (as in the house in our frontispiece) is gone--suppressed. The human creature no longer builds for himself, decorates for himself; no longer lets loose his fancy, his humour, his notions of the fitting and the comfortable.
Science and economy go hand in hand, and lay down his streets and erect his houses." Thus, although, from an artistic point of view, we shall never be reconciled to the changes that have come over Normandy, we cannot ignore the consequent social advantages. Mr. Ruskin, speaking of the change in Switzerland during his memory of it (thirty-five years) says:--"In that half of the permitted life of man I have seen strange evil brought upon every scene that I best loved, or tried to make beloved by others. The light which once flushed those pale summits with its rose at dawn and purple at sunset, is now umbered and faint; the air which once inlaid the clefts of all their golden crags with azure, is now defiled with languid coils of smoke, belched from worse than volcanic fires; their very glacier waves are ebbing, and their snows fading, as if h.e.l.l had breathed on them; the waters that once sunk at their feet into crystalline rest, are now dimmed and foul, from deep to deep, and sh.o.r.e to sh.o.r.e."
But the clouds of smoke that defile the land, the shrieking of steam, and the perpetual, terrible grinding of iron against iron (sounds which our little children grow up not to heed) are part of a system which enables Mr. Ruskin, one day to address a crowd in the theatre of the British Inst.i.tution, and on the next--or the next but one--to utter this lament on the banks of Lake Leman. His remarks, with which so many will sympathise, lose point and consequence from the fact of his own rapid translation from one place to another, and from the advantages _we_ gain by his travelling on the wings of steam. And there is a certain consolation in the knowledge that in the days when the waters of Geneva were of "purest blue," the accommodation for travellers at the old hostelries was less favourable to peace of mind.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
CHAPTER X.
_THE VALLEY OF THE SEINE._
In the fruitful hills that border the river Seine, and form part of the great watershed of Lower Normandy, Nature has poured forth her blessings; and her daughters, who are here lightly sketched, dispense her bounties.
It is a pleasant thing to pa.s.s homeward through this "food-producing"
land--to go leisurely from town to town, and see something more of country life in Normandy--to see the laden orchards, the cattle upon the hills, and the sloping fields of corn. It is yet early in the autumn, but the variety of colour spread over the landscape is delightful to the eye; the rich brown of the buckwheat, the bright yellow mustard; the green pastures by rivers, and the poppies in the golden corn; the fields, divided by high hedges, and interspersed with mellowed trees; the orchards raining fruit that glitters in the sunshine as it falls; the purple heath, the luxuriant ferns. There is "_une recolte magnifique_" this year, and the people have but one thought--"the gathering in;" the country presents to us a picture--not like Watteau"s "_fetes galantes_," but rather that of an English harvest-home.
We are in the midst of the cornfields near Villers-sur-mer, and the hill-side is glorious; it is covered to the very summit with riches--the heavily-laden corn-stems wave their crests against a blue horizon, whilst, in a cleft of the hill, a long line of poppies winds downwards in one scarlet stream. They are set thickly in some places, and form a blaze of colour, inconceivably, painfully brilliant--a concentration of light as utterly beyond our power of imitation by the pencil, as genius is removed from ordinary minds. We could not paint it if we would, but we may see in it an allegory of plenty, and of peace (of that peace which France so urgently desires); we may see her blood-red banner of war laid down to garland the hill-side with its crimson folds, and her children laying their offerings at the feet of Ceres and forgetting Mars altogether. The national anthem becomes no longer a natural refrain--anything would sound more appropriate than "partant pour la Syrie" (there is no time for _that_ work)--to our little friend in fluttering blouse, who sits in the gra.s.s and "minds"
fifty head of cattle by moral force alone; we should rather sing:--
"Little boy blue, come blow me your horn, The orchards are laden, the cow "s in the corn!"
We cannot leave this pastoral scene, at least until the evening; when the sun goes down behind the sea--leaving a glow upon the hill-side and upon the crowd of gleaners who have just come up, and casts long shadows across the stubble and on the sheaves of corn; when the harvest moon shines out, and the picture is completed--the corn--sheaves lighted on one side by the western glow, on the other by the moon; like the famous shield over which knights did battle,--one side silver, the other gold.
All this time we are within sight, and nearly within sound, of the "happy hunting grounds" of Trouville and Deauville, but the country people are singularly unaffected by the proximity of those pretty towns, invented by Dumas and peopled by his following.[52] It is true that on the walls of a little village inn, there is something paraded about a "Trouville a.s.sociation, Limited," and a company for "the pa.s.sage of the Simplon," with twenty-franc shares; but these things do not seem to find much favour amongst the thrifty peasantry. They have, in their time, been tempted to unearth their treasures, and to invest in bubble companies like the rest of the world; but there is a reaction here, the Normans evidently thinking, like the old Colonnae, that a hole in the bottom of the garden is about the safest place after all. And they have, it is true, some other temptations which come to them with a cheap press, such as "_la surete financiere_," "_le moniteur des tirages financiers_," "_le pet.i.t moniteur financier_," &c., newspapers whose special business it is, to teach the people how to get rid of their savings, we are speaking, of course, of the comparatively uneducated agricultural population--the farmers, all through the district we have come, especially near Vire and Falaise, being rich _proprietaires_ and investing largely; and there are many other things in these half-penny French newspapers which find their way into these remote corners of France, which must make the cure sometimes regret that he had taught his flock to read. In a little paper which lies before us, the first article is ent.i.tled "_Le miroir du diable_;" then follows a long account of a poisoning case in Paris, and some songs from a _cafe chantant_, interspersed with ill.u.s.trations of the broadest kind. But let us not be too critical; we have seen many things in France which would startle Englishmen, but nothing, we venture to say, more harmful in its tendency, than the weekly broad-sheet of crime which is spread out over our own land (to the number, the proprietors boast, of at least a hundred thousand[53]), wherein John and Jane, who can only sign their names with a cross, read in hideous cartoons, suggestions of cruelty and crime more revolting than any the schoolmaster could have taught them.
In these rich and prosperous provinces, the people (revolutionary and excitable as their ancestors were) certainly appear happy and contented; the most uneducated of them are quick-witted and ready in reply, they are not boorish or sullen, they have more readiness--at least in manner--than the germanic races, and are, as a rule, full of gaiety and humour. These people do not want war, they hate the conscription which takes away the flower of the flock; they regard with anything but pleasure the rather dictatorial "_Moniteur_" that comes to them by post sometimes, whether they ask for it or not, and would much rather be "let alone."[54]
Such is a picture of Lower Normandy, the land of plenty where we wander with so much pleasure in the summer months, putting up at wayside inns (where the hostess makes her "note" on a slate and finds it hard work to make the amount come to more than five francs, for the night, for board and lodging for "monsieur") and at farmhouses sometimes; chatting with the people in their rather troublesome patois, and making excursions with the local antiquary or cure, to some spot celebrated in history.
They are pleasant days, when, if we will put up with a few inconveniences, and live princ.i.p.ally out of doors, we may see and hear much that a railway traveller misses altogether. We shall not admire the system of farming, as a rule (each farmer holding only a few acres); and we shall find some of the cottages of the labourers very primitive, badly built, and unhealthy, although generally neat; we shall notice that the people are cruel, and careless of the sufferings of animals, and that no farm servant knows how to groom a horse. We shall see them clever in making cider, and p.r.o.ne to drink it; we shall see plenty of fine, strong, rather idle men and women in the fields carrying tremendous burdens, but hardly any children; they are almost as rare in the country as a lady, or a gentleman. Indeed, in all our country wanderings the "gentry" make little figure, and appear much less frequently on the scene than we are accustomed to in England. There are, of course, _proprietaires_ in this part of Normandy who spend both their time and money in the country, and are spoken of with respect and affection by the people; but they are _rarae aves_, men of mark, like the founder of the protestant colony at Beuzeval on the sea.
Nearly every Sunday after harvest-time there will be a village wedding, where we may see the bride and bridegroom coming to take "the first sacrament;" seated in a prominent place in front of the altar, and receiving the elements before the rest of the congregation, the bride placing a white favour on the basket which contains the consecrated bread, and afterwards coming from the church, the bride with a cap nearly a foot high, the bridegroom wearing a dress coat, with a tremendous bouquet, and a wedding-ring on his fore-finger; and, if we stand near the church porch, we may be deafened with a salute fired by the villagers in honour of the occasion, and overwhelmed by the eloquence of the "best man," who takes this opportunity of delivering a speech; and finally, the bells will ring out with such familiar tone that we can hardly realise that we are in France.[55]
These people are of the labouring cla.s.s, but they have some money to "commence life" with; the poorest girls seldom marry without a portion (indeed, so important is this considered amongst them that there are societies for providing portions for the unendowed), and they are, with few exceptions, provident and happy in married life. They are so in the country at least, in spite of all that has been said and written to the contrary. A lady who has had five-and-twenty years" acquaintance with French society, both in town and country, a.s.sures us that "the stereotyped literary and dramatic view of French married life is wickedly false." The corruption of morals, she says, which so generally prevails in Paris, and which has been so systematically aggravated by the luxury and extravagance of the second Empire, has emboldened writers to foist these false pictures of married life on the world.
But we, as travellers, must not enter deeply into these questions; our business is, as usual, princ.i.p.ally with their picturesque aspect. And there is plenty to see; a few miles from us there is the little town of Pont l"Eveque; and of course there is a fete going on. Let us glance at the official programme for the day:--
"At 10 A.M., agricultural and horticultural meetings.
From 11 to 12, musical ma.s.s; several pieces to be performed by the band of the 19th Regiment.
At 12-1/2, meeting of the Orpheonists and other musical societies.
1 P.M., ordering and march of a procession, and review of Sappers and Miners.
2 P.M., ascension of grotesque balloons.
2-1/2 P.M., race of velocipedes.
3-1/2 P.M., climbing poles and races in sacks.
5 P.M., performance of music in the _Place de l"Eglise_; band of the 19th Regiment.
6 P.M., grand dinner in the College Hall, with toasts, speeches, and concert.
8 P.M., general illumination with Chinese lanterns, &c.
9 P.M., Display of fireworks; procession with torches to the music of the military band."
N.B. Every householder is requested to contribute to the gaiety by illuminating his own house--_By order of the Maire._
How the rather obscure little town of Pont l"Eveque suddenly becomes important,--how it puts on (as only a French town knows how to do) an alluring and coquettish appearance; how the people promenade arm and arm, up the street and down the street, on the dry little _place_, and under the shrivelled-up trees; how they play at cards and dominoes in the middle of the road, and crowd to the canvas booths outside the town--would be a long task to tell. They crowd everywhere--to the menagerie of wild beasts, to see the "pelican of the wilderness;" to the penny peepshows, where they fire six shots for a sou at a plaster cast of Bismarck; to the lotteries for crockery and bonbons, and to all sorts of exhibitions "gratis." Of the quant.i.ty of cider and absinthe consumed in one day, the holiday-makers may have rather a confused and careless recollection, as they are jogged home, thirteen deep in a long cart, with a neglected, footsore old horse, weighed down with his clumsy harness and his creaking load, and deafened by the jingling of his rusty bells.
But if we happen to be in one of the larger towns during the time of the Imperial fetes (the 15th of August), or at a seaport on the occasion of the annual procession in honour of the Virgin, we shall see a more striking ceremony still. The processions are very characteristic, with the long lines of fisherwomen in their scarlet and coloured dresses, and handkerchiefs tied round the head; the fishermen, old and weather-beaten, boys in semi-naval costume, neat and trim; and perhaps a hundred little children, dressed in blue and white. A dense ma.s.s of people crowding through the hot streets all day, impressive from their numbers, and from the quiet orderly method of their procession, headed and marshalled, of course, by the clergy and manoeuvred to the sound of bells. There is such a perpetual ringing of bells, and the trains run so frequently, that those who are not accustomed to such sights may become confused as to their true meaning. We learn, however, from the _affiches_ that it is all in honour of "Our Lady of Hope," that the _externes_ from one school parade the streets to-day, wearing wreaths and carrying banners and crowns of flowers; that others bear aloft the "cipher of Mary," the banner of the Immaculate Conception, baskets of roses, oriflammes, &c.; that twenty grown-up men parade the town with the "banner of the Sacred Heart," and that a party of young ladies, in white dresses fringed with gold, brave the heat and the dust, and crowd to do honour to the "Queen of Angels." A mult.i.tude with streamers and banners, a confusion of colour and gilding, pa.s.sing to and from the churches all day; and at night, fire balloons, _feu d"artifice_, open theatres, and "general joy."
Of one more ceremony we must speak, differing in character, but equally characteristic and curious. We are in the country again, spending our days in sketching, or wandering amongst the hills; enjoying the "perfect weather," as we call it, and a little careless, perhaps, of the fact that the land is parched with thirst, that the springs are dried up, and that the peasants are beginning to despair of rain.
We see a little white smoke curling through the branches of the trees, and hear in faint, uncertain cadence, the voices of men and children singing. Presently there comes up the pathway between two lines of poplars, a long procession, headed by a priest, holding high in the air a glittering cross; there are old men with bowed heads, young men erect, with shaven crowns, and boys in scarlet and white robes, carrying silver censers; there is a clanking of silver chains, a tinkling of little bells, and an undertone of oft-repeated prayer. The effect is startling, and brilliant; the sunlight glances upon the white robes of the men, in alternate stripes of soft shadow and dazzling brightness, the wind plays round their feet as they march heavily along, in a whirl of dust which robs the leaves of their morning freshness; whilst the scarlet robes of the children light up the grove as with a furnace, and the rush of voices disturbs the air. On they come through the quiet country fields, hot and dusty with their long march, the foremost priest holding his head high, and doing his routine work manfully--never wearying of repeating the same words, or of opening and shutting the dark-bound volume in his hand; and the children, not yet quite weary of singing, and of swinging incense-burners--keeping close together two and two in line; the people following being less regular, less apparently enthusiastic, but walking close together in a long winding stream up the hill.
What does it all mean? Why, that these simple people want rain on the land, and that they have collected from all parts of the country to offer their prayers, and their money, to propitiate the Deity. Could we, but for one moment, as onlookers from some other sphere, see this line of creeping things on their earnest errand, the sight would seem a strange one. Do these atoms on the earth"s surface hope to change the order of the elements, to serve their own purposes? If rain were needed, would it not come?
But we are in a land where we are taught, not only to pray for our wants, but to pay for their expression; so let us not question the motive of the procession, but follow it again in the evening, into the town, where it becomes lost in the crowded streets--so crowded that we cannot see more than the heads of the people; but the line is marked above them by a stream of sunset, which turns the dust-particles above their heads into a golden fringe. They make a halt in the square and sing the "Angelus," and then enter the cathedral, where the priest offers up a prayer--a prayer which we would interpret--not for rain, if drought be best, but rather for help and strength to fight the battle of life in the n.o.blest way.
Such scenes may still be witnessed in Normandy (although, of course, becoming less primitive and characteristic every year) by those who are not compelled to hurry through the land.
In the country districts the habits of the peasant cla.s.s are the only ones that a traveller has any opportunity of observing; of the upper cla.s.ses he will see nothing, and of their domestic life obtain no idea whatever. It is not to be accomplished, _en pa.s.sant_, in Normandy, any more than in Vienna. In the inns, the company at the public table consists almost invariably of French commercial travellers, and the two English ladies whom we meet with everywhere, travelling together. There is hardly an hotel in Normandy, excepting, of course, at the watering-places (of which we shall speak in the last chapter), that would be considered well appointed, according to modern notions of comfort and convenience. Ladies travelling alone would certainly find themselves better accommodated in Switzerland or in the Pyrenees; excepting in the matter of expense, for Normandy is still one of the cheapest parts of Europe to travel in--the Russians and Americans not having yet come.
We meet, as we have said, but few French people above the farming and commercial cla.s.s; our fellow-travellers being generally "unprotected"
Englishwomen who may be seen in summer-time at the various railway stations--fighting their way to the front in the battle of the "_bagages_," and speaking French to the officials with a grammatical fervour, and energy, which is wonderful to contemplate[56]--taking their places on the top of a diligence, amongst fowls and cheeses, with the heroic self sacrifice that would be required to mount a barricade; in short, placing themselves continually (and unnecessarily, it must be admitted) in positions inconsistent with English notions of propriety, and exposing themselves, for pleasure"s sake, to more roughness and rudeness than is good for their s.e.x. These things arise sometimes from necessity--on which we have not a word to say--but more frequently from a rigid determination to "economize," in a way that they would not dream of doing at home.
We would certainly suggest that English ladies should not elect to travel by the diligences, and in out-of-the-way places, _unattended_; and that they had better not attempt to "rough it" in Normandy, if they are able (by staying at home) to avoid the concussion.
To most men, this diligence travelling is charming--the seat on the _banquette_ on a fine summer"s day is one of the most enjoyable places in life; it is cheap, and certainly not too rapid (five or six miles an hour being the average); and we can sit almost as comfortably in a corner of the banquette as in an easy-chair. In this beautiful country we should always either drive or walk, if we have time; the diligence is the most amusing and sometimes the slowest method of progress. n.o.body hurries--although we carry "the mails" and have a letter-box in the side of the conveyance, where letters are posted as we go along, it is scarcely like travelling--the free and easy way in which people come and go on the journey is more like "receiving company" than taking up pa.s.sengers. As we jog along, to the jingling of bells and the creaking of rusty iron, the people that we overtake on the road keep acc.u.mulating on our vehicle one by one, as we approach a town, until we become encrusted with human things like a rock covered with limpets. There is no shaking them off, the driver does not care, and they certainly do not all pay. It is a pleasant family affair which we should all be sorry to see disturbed; and the roads are so good and even, that it does not matter much about the load. The neglect and cruelty to the horses, which we are obliged to witness, is certainly one drawback,[57] and the dust and crowding on market days, are not always pleasant; but we can think of no other objections in fine weather, to this quiet method of seeing the country.
Much has been said in favour of "a walking tour in Normandy," but we venture to question its thorough enjoyment when undertaken for long distances; and it can scarcely be called "economical to walk," unless the pedestrian"s time is of no value to other people.
Let us be practical, and state the cost of travelling over the whole of the ground that we have mapped out. We may a.s.sume that the most determined pedestrian will not commence active operations until he reaches Havre, or some other seaport town. From Havre to Pont Audemer by steamboat; thence by road or railway to _all_ the towns on our route (visiting Rouen by the Seine, from Honfleur), and so back to Havre, will cost a "knapsack-traveller" 46 francs 50 c., if he takes the banquette of the diligence and travels third cla.s.s, by railway. Thus it is a question of less than two pounds, for those who study economy, whilst at least a month"s time is saved by taking the diligence.
One argument for walking is, that you may leave the high roads at pleasure, and see more of the country and of the people; but the pedestrian has his day"s work before him, and must spend the greater part of an August day on the dusty road, in order to reach his destination. There are districts, such as those round Vire and Mortain, which are exceptionally hilly, where he might walk from town to town; but he will not see the country as well, even there, as from the elevated position of a banquette. The finest parts of Normandy are generally in the neighbourhood of towns which the traveller (who has driven to them) can explore on his arrival, without fatigue; _chacun a son gout_--these smooth, well-levelled roads are admirably adapted for velocipedes--but we confess to preferring the public conveyances, to any other method of travelling in France.
Let us conclude our remarks on this subject with an extract from the published diary of a pedestrian, who thus describes his journey from Lisieux to Caen, a distance of about twenty-six miles:--
"It is nightfall," he says, "before I have walked more than half-way to Caen; to the left of the road I see a number of lights indicative of a small town, but I perceive no road in that direction, and so am compelled to trudge on. I was dreadfully fatigued, for I had walked about Lisieux before starting. In the faint light, I thought I saw a dog cross the road just before me, but soon perceived that it must be a spectral one, the result of excessive fatigue. At length I reach a lamp-post, with the light still burning, indicating that I am in the suburbs of Caen. The road proceeds down a steep hill. I don"t know how long it would seem to the visitor in the ordinary way, but to myself, prostrated by fatigue, it appeared on this night a long and weary tramp."--"A Walking Tour in Normandy!"