SUBJECT-MATTER

To make a cord, it is necessary to take more than four times as much cotton as the final length of the cord will require, for some of the length will be taken up in the twisting of the cord. It will be easier for two to work together in making a cord. The cord should be doubled, the two lengths twisted together firmly, and the ends brought together again and held in one hand, while the middle is taken in the other hand, and the lengths are allowed to twist firmly together. The ends should be tied, and the cord run into the bag with a bodkin or tape-needle. If one cord is run in from one side and another is run in from the other side, each cord running all the way around, the bag can be drawn up easily.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 9.--Bodkin]

In place of the cord, narrow tape may be used. Take two pieces of tape, each piece being twice as long as the width of the bag plus two inches.

Run one tape in from one side and a second from the other side, each tape running all the way around. Join the tape ends in the following manner:

1. Turn a narrow fold on one end of the tape to the _wrong_ side, and on the other end of the tape to the _right_ side.

2. Slip one fold under the other and hem down the folded edges.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

If the pupils are not able to supply cords for their own bags, the teacher should have a sufficient supply of cord on hand. She should be sure the bags are in readiness for the cord before the cla.s.s period.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 10.--- Completed bag]

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should begin the lesson by describing the method of making the cord, estimating the amount necessary, and demonstrating the process with the a.s.sistance of one of the pupils. The pupils should be numbered, so that they may work in groups of two. After they have completed the cord and run it into the bag, methods of finishing the ends neatly should be suggested to them.

LESSON IX: DARNING STOCKINGS

_Use of a darning-ball or gourd as a subst.i.tute for a ball. Talk on the care of the feet and the care of the stockings._

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 11.--Darning]

SUBJECT-MATTER

This lesson will involve running and weaving. Darning is used to fill in a hole with thread, so as to supply the part that has been destroyed or to strengthen a place which shows signs of weakness. A darning-ball, a gourd, or a firm piece of cardboard should be placed under the hole. The darn should extend one quarter of an inch beyond the edge of the material, beginning with fine st.i.tches in the material, making rows running close together in one direction, then crossing these threads with rows that run at a right angle to them. Care should be taken alternately to pick up and drop the edge of the material around the hole, so that no raw edges will be visible, and to weave evenly in and out of the material and the cross threads.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

Each pupil should provide a pair of stockings with a few small holes and a gourd or ball of some sort that she can use as a darning ball.

METHOD OF WORK

When the cla.s.s meets, the teacher should discuss briefly the care of the feet and of the stockings, and demonstrate the method of darning, on a large piece of coa.r.s.e material, with heavy yarn and a needle. If the pupils finish one darn during the lesson period, more darning should be a.s.signed for practice out of cla.s.s.

LESSON X: PATCHING[A]

_Hemmed patches on cotton garments. Talk on the care of the clothes._

SUBJECT-MATTER

This lesson will involve measuring, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, basting, and hemming. A patch is a piece of cloth sewed on to a garment to restore the worn part. The material used for the patch should be as nearly like the original fabric in colour and quality as possible. In placing the patch, the condition of the material about the hole must be taken into consideration, as well as the size of the hole. The worn parts around the hole should be removed, and the hole cut square or oblong. The patch should be, on all four sides, an inch larger than the trimmed hole. The corners of the hole should be cut back diagonally, so that the edges may be turned under. The patch should be matched and pinned to the wrong side of the garment, leaving the edges to project evenly on all four sides. The edges of the material around the hole should be turned in and basted to the patch. The edges of the patch should be turned in so that they extend, when finished, one-half inch from the edge of the hole. The patch and the cloth should be basted together and hemmed.

[A] Used when special problem comes up.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 12.--Patching]

PRELIMINARY PLAN

The lesson on patching should be given at any time in the course when it can be applied to an immediate need. If a pupil tears her dress while playing at school, or if she wears a torn ap.r.o.n, the teacher can announce a patching lesson for the next sewing cla.s.s, and request each pupil to bring a torn garment and the material for the patch from home.

It may be desirable to use two or three periods for this lesson.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should demonstrate the process of patching on a large piece of cotton. The pupils should practise placing a patch on a piece of paper with a hole in it. Each step should be a.s.signed in succession--examination of the article to determine its condition, calculation of the size and preparation of the patch, placing the patch, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g the article around the hole, basting the patch and material together, and hemming the patch.

LESSON XI: CUTTING OUT Ap.r.o.nS OR UNDERGARMENTS

SUBJECT-MATTER

When cutting out an ap.r.o.n, the length of the skirt should first be measured, and to this measure 6 inches should be added for the hem and the seams. One length of the material corresponding to this length should be cut. This should be folded lengthwise through the middle.

Three quarters of an inch should be measured on this fold, and the material cut from the end of the selvage to this point, in order to slope the front of the ap.r.o.n. When the waist measure is taken, 3 inches should be added to it (1 for the lap and 1 at each end, for finishing).

This makes a strong piece at each end for the b.u.t.ton and b.u.t.ton-hole. Two pieces of this length and 2-1/2 inches wide should be cut lengthwise of the material for the belt. A measure should be made from the middle of the back of the waist line, over the shoulder, to a point 5 inches to the right to the centre front and on the waist line. Two pieces of the length of this measure and 4-1/2 inches wide should be cut lengthwise of the material for the shoulder straps. A piece 9 by 12 inches should be cut for the bib, the longer distance lengthwise of the material. These measurements allow one quarter of an inch for seams.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

Before the lesson the teacher should see if arrangements can be made to secure the use of one or two sewing-machines, so that the pupils may sew all the long seams by machine.

At a previous lesson she should discuss the kinds of material suitable for the ap.r.o.ns. The pupils should consider whether their ap.r.o.ns shall be white or coloured, and whether they shall be of muslin, cambric, or gingham. Each pupil will need from 1-1/2 to 2 yards of material, according to her size. The taller ones will need 2 yards.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig._ 13.--Cutting out skirt of ap.r.o.n]

There should be on hand a sufficient number of tape-measures, pins, and scissors, so that the pupils may proceed with the cutting of their ap.r.o.ns without unnecessary delay.

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