My opinion is that Boston is putting on airs, and I for one don"t mean to put up with it. I hate stuck-up people, and I despise stuck-up towns.
Of course it is my duty to see all things in behalf of the Society, and to do my best to lay them before you. I cannot say that my ideas of Boston have not toned down considerably since I came to New York. Still New England is New England, and Boston is Boston, if she does now and then make a tremendous old goose of herself, and sometimes threatens to cackle the hub all to pieces.
Cousin Dempster hasn"t much to do in summer-time, so he was on hand for the Great High Jubilee; and E. E. was just crazy to go; for she is what you call musical, and goes right off the handle whenever a fellow that can"t speak English plays on the piano or sings to her in some language that she don"t know a word of.
Well, we went, and found Boston just running over with people. Every house along the crooked streets had one or two flags a-streaming from the roof, or out of the windows--star-spangled banners tangled-up with red and yellow and all sorts of colors; some with eagles, some without, but making every street gorgeous, as if the Fourth of July had burst out before its time.
The Coliseum is a tremendous building, big enough to roof-in forty thousand people, and leave room for the whole swarm of drummers, toot-horners, piano-thrashers, blacksmiths, anvils, and swivel-guns, with a thousand people to blow, thrash, and blast them off, and twenty thousand singers behind, ready to pile in the thunder of their voices.
The Coliseum is grand, barny in its structure, and all outdoorish when you get into it; but there is a good deal to see before you do get into it. The streets were just jammed-up with people when we came in sight of the great building, which stands out in a bare piece of ground, without a tree near it, and the hottest sun you ever wilted under beating down on everything around it, till I felt as if approaching the mouth of a great New England brisk oven, heated to bake a thousand tons of beans in. The streets were blocked with people.
The little wooden bridges built over the railroads were creaking under the tramp of a never-ending crowd. The street cars were crowded like beehives till the horses could not move, and some of the cars broke down, choking up the track.
Female women, with red books in their hands, scrambled through the crowd. Little tents and shanties were scattered all about, everybody talked fast and loud--some in one language, some in another. It was like going into the Tower of Babel, with all the languages in full blast.
From one of the shanties we heard the sound of a loud, eager, wild voice, as of some fellow going to be hung, and wrestling for his life.
"What is that?" says I to Dempster. "What on earth are they doing in there?"
"Oh, it"s a prayer-meeting," says he; "some man is wrestling with the Lord in behalf of sinful souls."
"Oh, that"s it," says I, just disgusted: "Well, I hope he"ll get through with his wrestling before we come this way again. To haul religion and force prayers into such a crowd as this, is making a farce of Christianity. We have churches for such things, and the calm of a holy Sabbath set aside for the service of G.o.d. Who has time to think of such things here?"
"Oh, it takes all sorts of men to make a world," says Dempster, pushing his way through the crowd, while E. E. and I followed, with that child a-dragging after us.
We went at the rate of three feet in as many minutes, and that wrestler"s voice was wrangling over us all the time. If the angels caught one sentence, I"m sure they must have clapped their wings to their ears and left the hub to take care of itself.
LXXIV.
THUNDERS OF MUSIC.
Well, at last we crowded and fought our way into the Coliseum, which was pretty well filled up when we got through the entrance.
It was a sight, I must say that. Before us was a whole mountain-side of benches, rising one above another till you could hardly see the end of them--benches, benches, benches--crowded down and running over with people, all in a state of bewildering commotion--humming, whispering, and rustling together like ten millions of bees in a mammoth hive.
You never saw so many female women together in your born days. Think of it, thousands and thousands with crimson books fluttering in their hands, as if each woman had caught a great red b.u.t.terfly and was holding him out by the wings. All these female women were rigged out in gorgeous dresses, rustling, moving, and flaming with all sorts of colors, like a hillside covered with gorgeous flowers, broken up with a dash of blackness now and then, as if a thunder-cloud had settled down amongst them. These black patches were the musicians, the flower garden was the singers--almost all female women, with fans, and voices, and red books in motion.
Below were the people, crowded together by the acre, all jolly, smiling, and looking as if Boston were ready to burst her tire and whirl on her own bare hub, with all her spokes a-whizzing.
Flags streamed and blazed on the walls, the roof, and around the pillars. All the stars in the skies seemed to have been torn down, scattered on a blue ground, and hung over that great building. It was a grand sight, I must say that--grand, but hubby.
It was the German day, Cousin Dempster said. England had had her turn, France had flared up, and now Germany was to splurge just as much as she was a mind to.
Well, Germany did splurge, but she began with a loud, deep, woe-begone rush of music, that seemed to roll out from a graveyard where everybody lay uneasy in his grave and was begging to get out. This ended off when the day closed with a dreary, low complaint, as if they had begged long enough and gave up. Now and then they broke in with a grand crash that made me start from my seat, and went off in a low wail, with a storm of music between.
Something lively followed the first moan. Then a lady got up and sang all alone by herself, and her voice went floating through that great barny place, full, loud, and clear, as if ten thousand nightingales--not that I ever saw or heard a nightingale in my life, but I persist in it--as if ten thousand nightingales had broken loose in a swamp of wild roses.
"Who on earth is that?" says I to E. E.
"Madame Puschka Leutner," says she, clasping her hands. "Isn"t she delicious?"
Then out E. E. drew her handkerchief and set it flying.
"I never heard anything like it, so strong, so sweet, so spreading,"
says I, flirting out my own handkerchief with enthusiasm. "The human voice is something worth while in the way of music after all."
It was no use saying more, for up jumped all the thousands of people in that great encampment, out went a swarm of white handkerchiefs, flocking together like a host of frightened seagulls, and the roar of the people went up like thunder.
Then a great band of men, mostly with yellow beards and rosy faces, got on their feet, and went at the fiddles, the twisted horns, the drums and things, like crazy creatures, and the way the music rose, and swelled, and thundered out was enough to drive one crazy.
Once more that great crowd burst in with yells and shouts, and a wild storm of praise. Then one of the yellow-haired men stood up alone with a wide-mouthed toot-horn, made of bright bra.s.s, in his hand. After looking around a minute, he just put the horn to his mouth, and blew a slow, long blow. Then he went at it tooth and nail, bringing out great round tones that seemed as if they never would grow faint or die away.
I have heard a great many toot-horns in my life; in fact, I have blown a tin one myself to call the men folks in to dinner; but never did I hear anything like that. It was what Cousin E. E. called wonderful--so-low.
I couldn"t quite agree with her there, for to me it seemed wonderfully loud and riotous, but it was enough to make one in love with bra.s.s toot-horns forever.
By and by something happened that just took the starch out of my New England soul. There, in the midst of all those dashy singers, one hundred and fifty men and women of the colored persuasion rose up in a human thunder-cloud, and broke into that n.o.ble song of freedom, which is a glory to one New England woman, and a glory to New England, for no better thing has been written since the "Star Spangled Banner:"
"Mine eyes have seen the glory of the coming Lord."
Oh, sisters! there mightn"t have been the highest-priced music in those colored voices, but the words are enough to wake up a dead warrior; they went through and through me as the wind stirs a forest. It was something to hear those dusky-faced freedmen chanting the glory of their own emanc.i.p.ation--something better than music, I can tell you. But the thrill of the thing was all gone when twenty thousand white people, with drums, trumpets, fiddles, organs, everything and every creature that could make a noise, thundered in, and bore all the sentiment off in a wild whirlpool of thunder.
I do wish the white people would stop helping the colored population so much. They only drown them out and stifle them. Why couldn"t the jubilant darkies be left to sing their own song, and rush on with old John Brown without being whirlpooled up in twenty thousand white voices.
They could have stood their own without help, I reckon.
There was a little resting spell after the darkies sat down; then came a great heaving crash and storm of music. Everything from a jew"s-harp to an organ was set a-going, and behind them thousands of women sent up their voices amid a crash of anvils, the thunder of guns, and the ringing of bells that plunged one headlong into a volcano of sound that was neither music, nor thunder, nor an earthquake, but altogether a stampede and whirlwind of noises that engulfed you, body and soul.
Ring--crash-bang--thunder rolling, rolling--oceans in tumult--whirlwinds of sound--armies crashing together--the world at an end!
That was what it seemed like to me. Sisters, I haven"t a nerve left in my body; my temples throb, my heart feels as if it had been blown up with bra.s.s horns. There is a drum beating in each temple. Oh, if I could only hear a robin sing, or a brook in full flow--anything soft, and low, and sweet--it would be a relief.
LXXV.
SARATOGA TRUNKS.
Dear sisters:--Do you know where Long Branch is? I reckon not, owing to its being a sandy slip, cut off from the edge of New Jersey, and not much of a place over two months in the year; it hasn"t got into the geography books as a school item of importance, though, if a President or two more should settle in there, it might lift it a notch higher.
But in duty bound, I am here in pursuit of my great social mission, and can tell you, confidently, that Long Branch is a great watering-place, brim full, and running over with fashion once a year, when the hot sun drives all the upper-crust people out of New York, and everybody that is anybody feels the want of extra washing.
When I speak of watering-places, do not understand that I mean a tavern corner with some brook emptying itself into a huge wooden trough for horses to drink out of. Of course, that is our Vermont idea; with a willow-tree shading the trough. That, no doubt, gave the name here. But the two things are no more alike than trout streams are like the broad ocean.