Seaport in Virginia

Chapter 19

Some time previously, in 1793, H. Wilbur in the same publication announced that the "Late Master of the Steine House Academy Brighthelm-stone, Begs leave Respectfully to inform the Public in General that his Academy will open on Monday next, the 27th, inst. for the reception of ten young Ladies at Two Dollars per month, pens and ink included."

Was Spring Gardens a young ladies academy as well as oysterhouse, tavern and jockey club?

The tradition that Spring Gardens was the second Jockey Club seems to be borne out in the announcement of the spring races which appeared on Sat.u.r.day, May 20, 1797:

Red House Spring Races

To be run for on Thurs. 25th inst. over Jockey Club course. A subscription purse of 100 dollars, three mile heats, free for any horse, mare or gelding. Aged horses to carry 126 lbs; six year old 118; 5 years old 110; 4 years 98 and three years old feather.

On Friday, a Purse of $50.00, 2 mile heats, Sat.u.r.day a Purse of $50.00, mile heats. The Purses shall be at the Post.

The horses to be entered the day preceding each race with me or pay double on entrance; the winning horse on each preceding day only excepted. I have expended a great deal of money in altering and improving the course it is now approved by the best judges of racing. No exertion shall be wanting to give satisfaction by the publics devoted servent.

JAMES GARDINER

Last day a feather.

N.B. The Jockey Club Races will commense on Wed. 20th, Sept. next.

The Races were intended for the 18th, 19th, and 20th, but the commencement of the District Court being altered from the 12th to the 18th inst. was only known this day by the public"s obedient servant.

JAMES GARDINER

N.B. On the 15th June following a colts purse or sweepstake will certainly be run for; each subscriber putting five guineas in the purse the day before starting. Several are already entered. The Colts that are admissable may be known by an application to J.G.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Rear of Spring Gardens or Yate"s Tavern]

General Washington was a visitor many times and on July 4, 1798, he recorded in his diary: "Went up to the Celebration of the Anniversary of Independance and dined in the Spring Gardens near Alexa. with a large Compa. of the Civil and Military of Fairfax County."[159] His cash accounts for the day set his expenses in Alexandria "at the Anniversary of Independance" as 1 4_s._[160] A Philadelphia newspaper gave a full account of the festivities:

_Alexandria_, July 7--The 23rd [_sic_] Anniversary of American Independence was celebrated by the inhabitants of this town, on Wednesday last, with the greatest harmony and conviviality.--Every thing conspired to render the business of the day a varied scene of patriotism and social joy; and the dignified presence of the beloved WASHINGTON, our ill.u.s.trious neighbor, gave such a high colouring to the tout ensemble, that nothing was wanting to complete the picture.

The auspicious morning was ushered in by a discharge of sixteen guns.

At 10 o"clock the uniform companies paraded; and, it must be acknowledged, their appearance was such as ent.i.tled them to the greatest credit, while it reflects honor on their officers and the town--it was perfectly military: ... The different corps were reviewed in King street by General Washington, and Col. Little, who expressed the highest satisfaction at their appearance and manoeuvring; after which they proceeded to the Episcopal Church, where a suitable discourse was delivered by the Rev. Dr. Davis. Of this discourse I may say, with the expressive Collins, it was

"Warm, energetic, chaste, sublime."

A dinner was prepared at Spring Gardens by Mr. John Stavely; which, considering the number of citizens and military that partook of it (between 4 and 500) was conducted with the greatest propriety and decorum.--Ludwell Lee, esq. presided at the head of the table--the foot was honored by Col. Charles Little.... GEN. WASHINGTON was escorted into town by a detachment from the troop of Dragoons. He was dressed in full uniform, and appeared in good health and spirits. The troops went through a number of military evolutions during the day, with all of which the General was particularly pleased, and bestowed many encomiums on their martial appearance.--_Claypoole"s American Daily Advertiser_, July 19.[161]

In the last years of his life, the General again "Went up to Alexa. and dined with a number of the Citizens there in celebration of the Anniversary of the declaration of American Independence."[162] And again the Philadelphia newspaper reported:

_Alexandria_, July 6.--The 23rd anniversary of the American Independence was celebrated in this town with the greatest harmony and decorum. The military commands agreeably to orders previously given, mustered in the court house square, and the line was formed in Fairfax street. After going through the manual, which was performed with the strictest exact.i.tude, Col. John Fitzgerald, accompanied by John Potts, Esq., pa.s.sed the line in review, and expressed his satisfaction at their military and elegant appearance. The battalion then marched, by sections, up King street, and formed the line there to receive their beloved chief General GEORGE WASHINGTON. On his pa.s.sing the line the usual military honors were paid; and it is with pleasure I remark, that the Cincinnatus of America appeared in excellent health and good spirits.

Lieutenant General Washington dined at Col. Kemp"s tavern, with a select party of friends.--_Claypoole"s American Daily Advertiser_, July 11.[163]

Whether Colonel Kemp at this time kept the Spring Gardens Tavern, the deponent sayeth not!

Thrilling tales of long departed patrons who haunt the old red house are told by the Misses Lewis and Evans, who lived in this house for several years. When the family of three sat down for their evening meal, they were disturbed by the consciousness of the presence of unseen persons.

Often they raised their wine gla.s.ses in a silent toast to the invisible guests and empty chairs. On several occasions a brave spirit clad in buff and blue was clearly seen, only to vanish into the heavy six-panel door--to the utter astonishment of three pairs of eyes. Once on a clear moonlight night, a great brick barn appeared in the place of a modest wooden structure which stands today. The lady who first saw it called her companion and asked her what she saw. The immediate reply was "An enormous brick barn." For a while they thought it an optical illusion produced by moonlight and clouds and waited at the window to see the bricks disintegrate into the factual wooden structure. But the ladies retired leaving the great brick apparition still standing. Colonel W.H.

Peake, the recent owner, when told this story, confirmed it to the extent of admitting that there was a large brick foundation under the present frame building.

Colonel and Mrs. Peake added a half story to the two wings and increased the length of the ell. The old tavern faces the street bravely, and the st.u.r.dy, paneled front door swings on H&L hinges as in days long past. In the brick-walled garden behind, arbors are fragrant with grape and wisteria. Hollyhocks flourish in the borders. A modern garage replaces the stables where the gentry of Alexandria and the neighborhood put up their horses when they frequented the "Oyster House." In this mellowed atmosphere of Spring Gardens, it is pleasant to turn one"s thoughts backward and reflect on the gay evening when it cost the General 1 4_s._ to celebrate "Independance."

[Ill.u.s.tration]

Chapter 19

William Fitzhugh and Robert E. Lee

Another fine example of late eighteenth century federal architecture in Alexandria is the residence at 607 Oronoco Street,[Owners: Mr. and Mrs.

Robert C. Goodale.] commonly spoken of as the boyhood home of Robert E.

Lee. This house abounds with memories of Alexandria. Her history, romance, and past are interwoven here in a perfect pattern. Washington, perhaps, frequented this house more than any other save Dr. Craik"s after the Fitzhughs moved to Alexandria from Chatham near Fredericksburg.

Built by John Potts in 1795 on land purchased from Charles Alexander, the date is attested by the stone fixed high in the wall under the carved cornice. Potts and his wife, Elizabeth, deeded the property to William Fitzhugh in 1799 for the sum of twelve thousand dollars.

The house and garden occupy half a city block. A central hall runs through the house and every room opens by window or door into the garden. The woodwork in the house, while simple, is in the best tradition and, save for two missing mantels, is undisturbed. The stairway rises on the left of the hall in a series of easy steps to a landing that crosses one end of the hall and then mounts on the right side to the second floor. The decoration of the risers and landing, in a diamond motif paneled in a delicate mold, is reminiscent of the designer, Adam. Two superb rooms open off the hall on each side, and the dining room and offices are in an ell on a lower level. There are Adam mantels of great beauty in the two master bedrooms on the second floor.

The doors, chair rails, cornices, floors, and locks are in a fine state of preservation throughout the house.

In the kitchen is the brick oven with patent doors made in England and inserted in the chimney about the time the house was built. A few years ago, the former owners, Dr. and Mrs. R.R. Sayers, went to the address of the manufactory at Stratton, 173 Cheapside, London. It was still in operation and there they were able to purchase needed parts for the faithful old oven.

Virginia is more like the mother country in the relations that exist between her aristocratic cla.s.ses, than any other part of the Union save, perhaps, South Carolina. These people moved in one large circle, marrying and intermarrying, related and a.s.sociated as one enormous family. Welcome in one another"s homes, they kept alive family ties by visits and letters, both of considerable length. It was quite possible to go away from home for several years for a series of visits, moving from one estate to another and remaining for the season--all the while renewing a.s.sociations within the chosen orbit.

Of this hierarchy was William Fitzhugh. A man of charm and culture, reared in the days and traditions of the great planters, he kept open house at Chatham, near Fredericksburg, the year around. Travelers en route to and from Williamsburg and Richmond were entertained in a lavish fashion. With the formation of the new government, the stream of visitors increased to such an extent that the Fitzhughs were being eaten out of house and home, and found it necessary to escape from their friends. They selected Alexandria as a place of domicile. Chatham was placed on the market in 1796.

A lifelong friend and a.s.sociate of George Washington, there was great intimacy between the two families. Fitzhugh contributed two fine does to the Mount Vernon deer park in 1786, and the same year forwarded a supply of orchard gra.s.s seed for the General"s use. A year before Washington"s death his good offices as neighbor and friend were directed toward the acquisition of a horse that would best serve Washington"s purpose.

Entries in George Washington"s diaries attest the many times that the Fitzhughs were at Mount Vernon, and the Washingtons at Chatham or Alexandria. On January 3, 1798: "Mrs. Washington, myself, etc., went to Alexandria and dined with Mr. Fitzhugh,"[164] and on April 3, 1799, "went to Alexandria and lodged myself with Mr. Fitzhugh";[165] the next day he "returned to Alexandria and again lodged at Mr. Fitzhugh"s."[166]

The last mention in Washington"s diary of his old friends is in the last month of his life, dated November 17, 1799, "went to Church in Alexandria and dined with Mr. Fitzhugh."[167]

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Alexandria home bought by William Fitzhugh of Chatham to escape from his friends]

To Fitzhugh"s house came Washington Custis wooing, and successfully, too, Mary Lee Fitzhugh. George Washington did not live to see the marriage between the daughter of this old friend and his adopted son, George Washington Parke Custis; nor the splendid Arlington mansion, following that new fashion of likeness to a Greek temple, that was to house the Custis and Lee families for three generations. He knew those rolling acres of the Arlington plantation, but never dreamed they were destined to become the emerald pall for America"s warrior dead.

In the _Alexandria Daily Gazette, Commercial and Political_ of Friday, January 12, 1810, appeared the following advertis.e.m.e.nt:

On Wednesday, the 17th instant will be sold between the hours of ten and eleven at the house of William Fitzhugh, esquire, deceased, a quant.i.ty of

Household Furniture

consisting of carpets, chairs, tables, bedsteads, etc., as also a carriage and one or two horses. Of all sums of twenty dollars or under, immediate payment will be expected, on all over a credit of six months will be given, and bond with approved security required:

Robert Randolph Executor of Wm. Fitzhugh

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Alexandria home of "Light Horse" Harry Lee"s widow.

The house that General Lee loved]

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