2278. Are they generally paid for in goods?-Yes; I may say universally.
2279. Are they made by the people in the country rather than by those in Lerwick?-There are very few made in Lerwick; all the hosiery proper is made in the country districts. When I speak of the hosiery proper, I mean stockings.
2280. What do you call the other kind?-Under-clothing. Articles such as shawls, veils, neckties, and the like, we call fancy work.
Then there is under-clothing-men"s under shirts, gentlemen"s drawers, ladies sleeve, ladies" under-dresses, ladies" drawers ladies" spencers, which are worn under the clothing.
2281. I see in your day-book a charge for half dozen white veils, 12s., that is, 2s. each: is not 2s. a high price for veils?-It depends very much on the quality.
2282. Would that be an average quality?-No; it is a good quality.
2283. Were these purchased or made to order?-I could not say as to that particular lot. The best veils may be specially made or they may be bought. We very often buy veils in the ordinary retail way over the counter, and give 2s. 6d. for them; but these would be particularly well knitted.
2284. Do you give so much as 2s. 6d. for veils?-Yes, for the finest quality.
2285. Then these 2s. veils were sent to a retail house?-Yes; but of course they are buying from us, and we are selling to them, and they get 5 per cent. off that.
2286. What might be the price of these veils to you?-Perhaps 18d. or 20d.
2287. Is there anything else that you wish to state about the hosiery trade?-Nothing that I recollect of, particularly; but I may perhaps be allowed to refer to some of the answers given to questions by the witnesses who were examined before the Commission in Edinburgh. In question 44,156, Mr. George Smith is asked, "Who supplies them (the knitters) with the wool?"-and he replies, "That is a very difficult question. They get it chiefly from the small farmers, and sometimes from the merchants?"-I don"t see why Mr. Smith should have said that that was a difficult question.
There was no difficulty in it whatever.
2288. Where do the knitters generally get their wool?-In the case of the country girls, their families sometimes have sheep running on the scattald, and the wool is their own property, and is spun by some member of the family.
2289. Are there people in the country who collect wool from a number of families and give it out to spin?-I believe, in some districts of the country, there are dealers who buy up the wool and sell it out again as wool. I was to say that the knitters can buy it from them also, or from their neighbours. These are the three ways in which they can get it.
2290. Is the greater part of the wool that is used in Shetland of native production?-Yes; the greater part of it is, except the Bradford and English manufactured wools, princ.i.p.ally black mohair and alpaca.
2291. Is much of that sold to women who knit on their own account?-I do not know if there is much sold; but in my own case, if they came to me wanting it, and I had it in stock, they should have it, whether they paid for it in cash or got it put to their account.
2292. If a woman came to you and sold a shawl, and wanted part of the price of it in worsted, would she get it without any demur?-Certainly.
2293. Do you know whether objections are made by any of the merchants to that being done?-I have seen it stated in the evidence that there are such objections.
2294. But, apart from the evidence before this Commission, do you know from your own knowledge, or from the statements of people in Shetland, whether there has been a difficulty in getting worsted for knitting in that way?-Yes, I have heard that.
2295. Do you know from what that difficulty arises?[Page 47]-I do not; unless it is because the dealer thinks that worsted is an article on which he does not have so much profit as on other goods, and is unwilling to give it.
2296. There has been no difficulty of that kind in your shop at any time?-No, none.
2297. Is there any reason why, in dealing with knitters, worsted should be called a money article or a ready-money article, which was only sold to them for money?-The Shetland worsted, which is generally spun in the north isles, in North Yell and Unst, is almost always bought and paid for in cash. It has always been the custom, at least for many years,-I should say for fifteen years,- that when the women come down from the north isles with worsted and sell it either to private persons or in the shops, they are paid for it in cash at the rate of 3d. or 31/2d. or 4d. per cut of nominally 100 threads, which in reality, when counted, runs to 80 or 90. I have seen a cut of worsted for which you paid 8d.
supposed to be 100 threads, which when counted was only found to be 55; but that was an extreme case.
2298. But that wool is obtained by merchants or other persons who want it, from Shetland women coming mostly from the north isles?-Yes; where it is princ.i.p.ally manufactured.
2299. Is the price of it always paid to them in cash?-As a rule, it is. Perhaps there may be exceptions, but, as a rule, it is paid in cash.
2300. Is that a.s.signed in the trade as a reason why, when it is sold out to other women, it should be paid for by them in cash?-I should say that that was the reason, because there would be no profit on it otherwise. For instance worsted for which a dealer paid 31/2d. a cut would be sold by him at the same price; and if he gave it in exchange for goods, he might be out of his money for weeks or months.
2301. Does he not get more than 31/2d. for it when selling it?-I don"t think it. There is a sort of fixed price for the various qualities of it.
2302. Does he not make a profit on retailing it?-No; I think not.
He would either refuse to sell it at all, or give it at the price at which he bought it.
2303. Then his purchase of the worsted must have been made primarily for the use of the knitters employed by him?-Yes, I believe so.
2304. So that selling it to those women who knit on their own account would be a little out of his ordinary way of business?- Yes.
2305. He does not profess to get it for that purpose?-No. It is the raw material brought in by him or bought by him for his own uses.
2306. Is it wool or worsted you are speaking of?-Worsted.
Before it is carded and spun we call it wool; after it is carded and spun we call it worsted.
2307. It is brought in the shape of worsted?-Yes.
2308. So that all you have been speaking of is really worsted?- Yes.
2309. Is much of that sent south from Shetland by the merchants in the shape of worsted?-Not much, I should say. It is more profitable, of course, for dealers and knitters to make it up, as all the raw material would come to would be comparatively trifling.
2310. Then you are not in the habit of sending it south in the shape of worsted?-No. In fact it is difficult to get. Sometimes we get an order for a small quant.i.ty for the south, for darning purposes.
When a customer orders a dozen or two dozen socks, he will ask for some worsted along with them for that purpose; but it is not easy sometimes to get that for him. I was to refer to one or two other questions in the previous evidence. In question 44,289 Mr.
Walker is asked, "These merchants have no hold over them as being their tenants?"-and he replies, "Not in the town, except in very few instances; not as a rule." Now I don"t know what instances he refers to. For my own part, I cannot imagine how any of us Lerwick dealers can have any hold on the Lerwick knitters, because they can come to us or any other body, just as they please.
2311. None of them are your tenants?-No; but even if they were, I don"t think it would matter.
2312. If their rent were in arrear, would the merchant not have a hold over them?-He, as their landlord, would just have the same redress as any other landlord would have. Then the next question is, "Is it considered a lucrative business?-Oh ! immensely so."
2313. You have already made a statement with regard to that answer; at least you have explained what the profit is?-Yes; but he says, "I know for a fact, that the worsted of a shawl which sells at about 30s. is worth from 2s. to 3s." Now that is quite incorrect, because with the very lowest price of worsted the cheapest would be at least 4s. 6d.; but for a shawl selling at 30s. the worsted of it would certainly cost me 10s.
2314. Do you mean the worsted of any shawl that would sell for that in the south market or to a south country merchant?-Yes, or to any customer here. We sell a good many of these shawls to ladies in Lerwick, or to any people who come in to buy them; and any shawl that would sell for 30s. the worsted of it would cost 9s.
or 10s.
2315. How much would the workmanship of a 30s. shawl come to?-Perhaps 12s., and sometimes more. Sometimes we give as high as 15s. for it. We paid 17s. 6d. last week for making a fine shawl. Then he says, A good deal of the worsted is now made in England, and brought down to Shetland.
2316. Is there much worsted imported from England?-Yes. Mr.
Walker says further, "The demand is so great for the Shetland goods, that it (the worsted) is made in Yorkshire, and brought down at 8s. a pound; and a quarter of a pound of that worsted will make a large shawl." That is a mistake, because nothing less than half a pound of worsted of that quality could by any possibility make a shawl.
2317. Is 8s. per pound a correct statement of the price?-For some qualities it is. There is a great variety of qualities. The qualities of Pyrenees and mohair and alpaca wools go by numbers, and according to fineness the numbers rise.
2318. Can you mention the various prices at present?-7s. and 8s.
per pound for blacks and whites; 9s. and 10s. for scarlet and ingrained colours.
2319. That is for Yorkshire wool?-Yes, of the finer descriptions; and then mohair and alpaca will range from 20s. to 24s. and 30s.
2320. I thought you said 32s. before?-Yes; and I have no doubt some of the numbers are even higher.
2321. I suppose there is not much variety in the size of shawls used for opera-cloaks or dress purposes?-No, they are all made about a size; but the value does not depend so much upon the size as upon the style of the workmanship.
2322. It will also depend to some extent on the quality of the wool?-Yes, to some extent.