Sylva

Sylva.

by John Evelyn.

Vol. 1.

INTRODUCTION.

I

_Evelyn & his literary contemporaries Isaac Walton & Samuel Pepys._

Among the prose writers of the second half of the seventeenth century John Evelyn holds a very distinguished position. The age of the Restoration and the Revolution is indeed rich in many names that have won for themselves an enduring place in the history of English literature. South, Tillotson, and Barrow among theologians, Newton in mathematical science, Locke and Bentley in philosophy and cla.s.sical learning, Clarendon and Burnet in history, L"Estrange, Butler, Marvell and Dryden in miscellaneous prose, and Temple as an essayist, have all made their mark by prose writings which will endure for all time. But the names which stand out most prominently in popular estimation as authors of great masterpieces in the prose of this period are certainly those of John Bunyan, John Evelyn, and Izaak Walton. And along with them Samuel Pepys is also well ent.i.tled to be ranked as a great contemporary writer, though he was at pains to try and ensure his being permitted to remain free from the publicity of authorship, for such time at least as the curious might allow his Diary to remain hidden in the cipher he employed.

With the great though untrained genius of Bunyan none of these other three celebrated prose authors of this time has anything in common. He stands apart from them in his fervently religious and romantic temperament, in his richness of representation and ingenuity of a.n.a.logy, and in his forcible quaintness of style, as completely as he did in social status and in personal surroundings. In complete contrast to the romantic productions of the self-educated tinker of Bedford, the works of Walton and Evelyn were at any rate influenced by, though they can hardly be said to have been moulded upon, the style of the preceding age of old English prose writers ending with Milton. The influence of the latter is, indeed, plainly noticeable both in the diction and in the general sentiment of these two great masters of the pure, nervous English of their period.

It would serve no good purpose to make any attempt here to trace the points of resemblance between the works of Walton and Evelyn, and then to note their differences in style. Each has contributed a masterpiece towards our national literature, and it would be a mere waste of time to make comparisons between their chief productions. This much, however, may be remarked, that the conditions under which each worked were completely different from those surrounding the other. Izaak Walton, the author of many singularly interesting biographies, and of the quaint half-poetical _Compleat Angler or the Contemplative Man"s Recreation_, the great cla.s.sic "Discourse of Fish and Fishing," was a London tradesman, while his equally celebrated contemporary John Evelyn, author of _Sylva, or a Discourse of Forest Trees_, the cla.s.sic of British Forestry, was a more highly cultured man, who wrote, in the leisure of official duties and amid the surroundings of easy refinement, many useful and tasteful works both in prose and poetry, ranging over a wide variety of subjects. Judging from the number of editions which appeared of their princ.i.p.al works, they were both held in great favour by the reading public, though on the whole the advantage in some respects lay with Evelyn. But during the present century the taste of the public, judged by this same rough and ready, practical standard, has undoubtedly awarded the prize of popularity to Izaac Walton.

So far as the circ.u.mstances of their early life were concerned there was greater similarity between Walton and Pepys, than between either of them and Evelyn. Born in the lower middle cla.s.s, the son of a tailor in London, and himself afterwards a member of the Clothworkers" guild, Pepys was a true Londoner. His tastes were centred entirely in the town, and his pleasures were never sought either among woods or green fields, or by the banks of trout streams and rivers. His thoughts seem often tainted with the fumes of the wine-bowl and the reek of the tavern; and even when he swore off drink, as he frequently did, he soon relapsed into his customary habits. Educated in London and then at Cambridge, where his love of a too flowing bowl already got him into trouble more than once, he was imprudent enough to incur the responsibilities of matrimony at the early age of twenty-three, with a beautiful girl only fifteen years old. Trouble soon stared this rash and improvident young couple in the face, but they were spared the pangs of permanent poverty through the aid and influence of Sir Edward Montagu, afterwards Earl of Sandwich, who was a distant relative of Pepys. Acting probably as Montagu"s secretary for some time, he was first appointed to a clerkship in the Army pay office, and then soon afterwards became clerk of the Acts of the Navy. Later on, like Evelyn, he held various more important posts under the Crown, as well as being greatly distinguished by promotion to non-official positions of the highest honour. His official career was a very brilliant one, and deservedly so from the integrity of his work, from his application, despite frequent immoderation in partaking of wine, and from his business-like methods of work. As Commissioner for the Affairs of Tangier and Treasurer, he visited Tangier officially. He twice became Secretary to the Admiralty, and was twice elected to represent Harwich in Parliament, after having previously sat for Castle Rising. He was also twice chosen as Master of the Trinity House, and was twice committed to prison, once on a charge of high treason, and the other time (1690) on the charge of being affected to King James II., upon whose flight from England Pepys had laid down his office and withdrawn himself into retirement. Elected a Fellow of the Royal Society in 1665, he attained the distinction of being its President in 1684. He was Master of the Clothworkers" Company, Treasurer and Vice-President of Christ"s Hospital, and one of the Barons of the Cinque Ports. In 1699, four years before he succ.u.mbed to a long and painful disease borne with fort.i.tude under the depression of reduced circ.u.mstances, he received the freedom of the City of London, princ.i.p.ally for his services in connection with Christ"s Hospital.

From the hasty sketch drafted in the above outlines, it will be seen that throughout all Pepys" manhood the circ.u.mstances of his daily life and environment were much more similar to those of Evelyn than to those of Walton, who may well be ranked as their senior by almost one generation. Like Evelyn, Izaak Walton was rather the child of the country than a boy of the town. Born in Stafford in 1593, he only came to settle in London after he had attained early manhood. Thus, though a citizen exposing his linen drapery and mens" millinery for sale first in the Gresham Exchange on the Cornhill, then in Fleet Street, and latterly in Chancery Lane, the Bond Street of that time, he ever cherished a longing for more rural surroundings and a desire to exchange life in the city for residence in a smaller provincial town. On the civil war breaking out in Charles the Ist"s time, he retired from business and went to live near his birth place, Stafford, where he had previously bought some land. Here the last forty years of his long life were spent in ease and recreation. When not angling or visiting friends, mostly brethren of the angle, he engaged in the light literary work of compiling biographies and in collecting material for the enrichment of his _Compleat Angler_. Published in 1653, this ran through five editions in 23 years, besides a reprint in 1664 of the third edition (1661).

In spite of the many similarities between Evelyn and Pepys as to university education, official position, political partisanship, and social and scientific status in London, there are yet such essential differences between what has been bequeathed to us by these two friends that comparison between them is almost impossible. They are both authors: but it was by chance rather than by design that Pepys ultimately acquired repute as an author, whereas Evelyn at once achieved the literary fame he desired and wrote for. Neither of the two works published by Pepys, _The Portugal History_ (1677) and the _Memories of the Royal Navy_ (1690), procured for him the gratification of revising them for a second edition, and it is indeed open to question if the _Diary_ upon which his undying fame rests was ever intended by him to be published after his death. This is a point that is never likely to be settled satisfactorily. The fact of its having been written in cipher looks as if it had been compiled solely for private amus.e.m.e.nt, and not with any intention of posthumous publication; and this view is greatly strengthened by the unblushing and complete manner in which he lays aside the mask of outward propriety and records his too frequent quaffing of the wine-cup, his household bickerings, his improprieties with fair women, and his graver conjugal infidelities. The improprieties of other persons, and especially those of higher social rank than himself, might very intelligibly have been written in cipher intended to have been transcribed and printed after his death; but it would be at variance with human nature to believe that he could so unreservedly have reduced to writing all the faults and follies of his life had even posthumous publication of his _Diary_ been contemplated by him at the time of writing it. For it is hardly capable of argument that, next to the instincts of self-preservation and of the maintenance of family ties, the desire to preserve outward appearances is undoubtedly one of the strongest of human feelings; and this great natural law, often the last remnant or the subst.i.tute of conscience, character, and self-respect, is even more fully operative in a highly civilised than in a savage or a semi-savage state of society. Of a truth, every human being is more or less of a Pharisee with regard to certain conventionalities of life. Complete disregard for the maintenance of some sort of standard of outward appearances is the absolute vanishing point of self-respect. Till that has been reached by any individual the hope of his reformation is not lost, though at the same time successful dissimulation makes the prospect of a turning point in a vicious career but remote. Still, "it is a long lane that has no turning." It is therefore most probable that the leaving behind of the key to the cipher was rather due to inadvertence than to intention and design. And if this view be correct, then Pepys" charming _Diary_ was the purely natural outpouring of his mind without ever a thought being bestowed on authorship and ultimate publication.

With Evelyn"s _Diary_, however, it was different. Although it was not published until 1818, and though it may never have been intended by its writer to have been given to the world in book form, yet it was very clearly intended to be an autobiographical legacy to his family. Hence it is no mere outpouring of the spirit upon pages meant only for the subsequent perusal of him who thus rendered in indelible characters his pa.s.sing thoughts of the moment. And this being the case, comparison between the two Diaries would be just as unfair as it is unnecessary.

The one is the fruit of unrestrained freedom and a mirthful mind, while the other is the product of cultured leisure and a refined literary method. When Evelyn was Commissioner for the maintenance of the Dutch prisoners (1664-70) he had frequent communications with Pepys, then of the Navy, and there are special references to him in Evelyn"s memoirs.

That an intimate friendship existed there is no doubt, and that they each held the other in great respect as a man of intellect, as well as of good business capacity, is equally clear. Thus, in June, 1669, he encouraged Pepys to be operated on "when exceedingly afflicted with the stone;" and on 19 February, 1671, "This day din"d with me Mr. Surveyor, Dr. Christopher Wren, and Mr. Pepys, Cleark of the Acts, two extraordinary ingenious and knowing persons, and other friends. I carried them to see the piece of carving which I had recommended to the King." This was a masterpiece of Grinling Gibbon"s work, which Charles admired but did not purchase; so Gibbon not long after sold it for 80, though "well worth 100, without the frame, to Sir George Viner." Evelyn at this time got Wren, however, to promise faithfully to employ Gibbon to do the choir carving in the new St. Paul"s Cathedral.

Each of their Diaries teems with reference to the other. Pepys asked Evelyn to sit to Kneller for his portrait which he desired for "reasons I had (founded upon grat.i.tude, affection, and esteeme) to covet that in effigie which I most truly value in the original." This refers to the well-known portrait, now at Wotton, that has been copied and engraved.

It appears to have been begun in October, 1685, but it was not till July, 1689, that the commission was actually completed. The portrait exhibits the face of an elderly man distinctly of a high-strung and nervous temperament, though not quite to the extent of being "sicklied oer with the pale caste of thought." His right hand, too, which grasps his _Sylva_ is one very characteristic of the nervous disposition. A bright, shrewd intellect, lofty thoughts, high motives, good resolves, and--last, tho" by no means least--a serene mind, the _mens conscia recti_ which Pepys bluntly called "a little conceitedness," are all stamped upon his well-marked and not unshapely features. It is eminently the face of a philosopher, an enthusiast, a studious scholar, and a gentleman.

No one can ever know Evelyn so well as Pepys did; and here is his opinion of John Evelyn, expressed in the secret pages of his cipher Diary on November, 1665:--"In fine, a most excellent person he is, and must be allowed a little for a little conceitedness; but he may well be so, being a man so much above others." And this just exactly bears out the rough general impression conveyed by the perusal of Evelyn"s Diary and his other literary works. The long friendship of these two was only terminated by the death of Pepys on 26th May, 1703, not long before Evelyn had himself to depart from this life. "This day died Mr. Sam.

Pepys, a very courtly, industrious and curious person, none in England exceeding him in knowledge of the navy, in which he had pa.s.sed through all the most considerable offices, Clerk of the Acts and Secretary of the Admiralty, all which he performed with great integrity. When King James II., went out of England, he laid down his office and would serve no more..... He was universally belov"d, hospitable, generous, learned in many things, skilled in music, a very great cherisher of learned men of whom he had the conversation..... Mr. Pepys had been for near 40 yeares so much my particular friend, that Mr. Jackson sent me compleat mourning, desiring me to be one to hold up the pall at his magnificient obsequies, but my indisposition hinder"d me from doing him this last office."

II

_Evelyn"s Childhood, Early Education, and Youth._

The essential facts of Evelyn"s life, as he himself would have us know them, are set forth at full length in autobiographical form, chronologically arranged in what is always spoken of as his _Diary_, although evidently this was (much of it, at any rate) merely a subsequent personal compilation from an actual diary, kept in imitation of his father, from the age of 11 years onwards and down even to within one month of his death in 1706.

The second son and the fourth child of Richard Evelyn of Wotton in Surrey, and of his wife Eleanor, daughter of John Stansfield "of an ancient honorable family (though now extinct) in Shropshire," he was born at Wotton on 31st. October, 1620. His father, "was of a sanguine complexion, mixed with a dash of choler; his haire inclining to light, which tho" exceeding thick became h.o.a.ry by the time he was 30 years of age; it was somewhat curled towards the extremity; his beard, which he wore a little picked, as the mode was, of a brownish colour, and so continued to the last, save that it was somewhat mingled with grey haires about his cheekes: which, with his countenance, was cleare, and fresh colour"d, his eyes quick and piercing, an ample forehead, manly aspect; low of stature, but very strong. He was for his life so exact and temperate, that I have heard he had never been surprised by excesse, being ascetic and sparing. His wisdom was greate, and judgment most acute; of solid discourse, affable, humble and in nothing affected; of a thriving, neat, silent and methodical genius; discretely severe, yet liberal on all just occasions to his children, strangers, and servants; a lover of hospitality; of a singular and Christian moderation in all his actions; a Justice of the Peace and of the Quorum; he served his country as High Sheriff for Surrey and Suss.e.x together. He was a studious decliner of honours and t.i.tles, being already in that esteem with his country that they could have added little to him besides their burden. He was a person of that rare conversation, that upon frequent recollection, and calling to mind pa.s.sages of his life and discourse, I could never charge him with the least pa.s.sion or inadvertence. His estate was esteem"d about 4,000 per ann. well wooded and full of timber." As for his mother, "She was of proper personage; of a brown complexion; her eyes and haire of a lovely black; of const.i.tution inclyned to a religious melancholy, or pious sadnesse; of a rare memory and most exemplary life; for conomie and prudence esteemed one of the most conspicuous in her Country."

Apparently John Evelyn thought he had made a very judicious choice of his father and mother when he wrote "Thus much in brief touching my parents; nor was it reasonable I should speake lesse to them to whom I owe so much."

These pa.s.sages, occurring in the first two pages of his _Diary_ serve at once to ill.u.s.trate a very characteristic feature of Evelyn"s mind, and one that is everywhere discernible in his writings. He was a man with a highly cultured and a very well balanced mind, but he was somewhat inclined to exaggerate; and he certainly had the rather enviable gift of considering everything pertaining to him, or approved or advocated by him, as very superior indeed. All his eggs had two yolks, and all his geese were swans. What he liked, he _loved_; and what he did not like, he _hated_. There was no golden mean with him; he was either very optimistic or else intensely pessimistic. Hence, naturally, he gave hard knocks to those who differed from him in opinion, and particularly after the Restoration; for he was one of the most expressive among King Charles II"s courtiers. Direct evidence of this special temperament was characteristic of Evelyn throughout all his life, and was of course particularly noticeable in his writings, as we shall subsequently see.

It is therefore only to be expected that he prized his father"s little estate of Wotton in Surrey as one of the finest in the kingdom. "Wotton, the mansion house of my Father, left him by my Grandfather, (now my eldest Brother"s), is situated in the most Southern part of the Shire, and though in a valley, yet really upon part of Lyth Hill one of the most eminent in England for the prodigious prospect to be seen from its summit, tho" of few observed. From it may be discerned 12 or 13 Counties, with part of the Sea on the Coast of Suss.e.x, in a serene day.

The house is large and ancient, suitable to those hospitable times, and so sweetly environed with those delicious streams and venerable woods, as in the judgment of Strangers as well as Englishmen it may be compared to one of the most tempting and pleasant Seats in the Nation, and most tempting for a great person and a wanton purse to render it conspicuous.

It has rising grounds, meadows, woods, and water in abundance. The distance from London (is) little more than 20 miles, and yet (it is) so securely placed as if it were 100; three miles from Dorking, which serves it abundantly with provisions as well of land as sea; 6 from Guildford, 12 from Kingston. I will say nothing of the ayre, because the praeeminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being dry and sandy: but I should speak much of the gardens, fountains, and groves that adorne it, were they not as generally knowne to be amongst the most natural, and (till this later and universal luxury of the whole nation, since abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that England afforded, and which indeed gave one of the first examples to that elegancy since so much in vogue, and followed in the managing of their waters, and other ornaments of that nature. Let me add, the contiguity of five or six Mannors, the patronage of the livings about it, and, what is none of the least advantages, a good neighbourhood. All which conspire to render it fit for the present possessor, my worthy Brother, and his n.o.ble lady, whose constant liberality give them t.i.tle both to the place and the affections of all that know them. Thus, with the poet,

Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos Ducit, et im" emores non sinit esse sui!"

This is a very good specimen of Evelyn"s style, for it shews the optimistic quality which, along with refinement and a love of cla.s.sical quotations, is ever present in his writings. Lythe Hill, from the summit of which the "prodigious prospect" is so eminently belauded, attains a height of less than a thousand feet above the sea-level.

At the early age of four John Evelyn was initiated into the rudiments of education by one Frier, who taught children at the church porch of Wotton; but soon after that he was sent to Lewes in Suss.e.x, to be with his grandfather Standsfield, while a plague was raging in London. There he remained, after Standsfield"s death in 1627, till 1630, when he was sent to the free school at Southover near Lewes and kept there until he went up to Balliol College, Oxford, as a fellow-commoner in 1637, being then 16 years of age. It was his father"s intention to have placed him at Eton "but I was so terrefied at the report of the severe discipline there that I was sent back to Lewes, which perverseness of mine I have since a thousand times deplored." In that same year (1637) Evelyn had the misfortune to lose his mother, then only in the 37th year of her age. Having been "extremely remisse" in his studies at school, he made no great mark during his University career. His application was not a.s.siduous, while his tutor, Bradshaw, whom he disliked, was negligent; and he appears to have been subject to frequent attacks of ague, disposing him to casual recreation rather than to close study. He had also apparently the desire to acquire a smattering of many different things rather than to study hard at a few special subjects. "I began to look on the rudiments of musick, in which I afterwards arriv"d to some formal knowledge though to small perfection of hand, because I was so frequently diverted by inclinations to newer trifles."

Completing his Oxford studies early in 1639, without taking any degree, he went into residence at the Middle Temple in April, and soon arrived at the conclusion that his "being at the University in regard of these avocations, was of very small benefit." Here he and his brother lodged in "a very handsome apartment just over against the Halt Court, but four payre of stayres high, which gave us the advantage of fairer prospect, but did not much contribute to the love of that unpolish"d study, to which (I suppose,) my Father had design"d me!" While thus a law student, on 30th October, he saw "his Majestie (coming from his Northern Expedition) ride in pomp, and a kind of ovation, with all the markes of a happy peace, restor"d to the affections of his people, being conducted through London with a most splendid cavalcade; and on 3rd November, following (a day never to be mentioned without a curse) to that long, ungratefull, foolish, and fatall Parliament, the beginning of all our sorrows for twenty years after, and the period of the most happy Monarch in the world: _Quis talia fando!_"

In the closing days of 1640 Evelyn lost his father, when he abandoned the study of the law and betook himself abroad in preference to being mixed up in the disorders of the time. His resolutions were "to absent myselfe from this ill face of things at home, which gave umbrage to wiser than myselfe, that the medaill was reversing, and our calamities but yet in their infancy." Shortly before that he had "beheld on Tower Hill the fatal stroake which sever"d the wisest head in England from the shoulders of the Earl of Strafford."

Landing at Flushing in July, 1641, Evelyn pa.s.sed, accompanied by his tutor Mr. Caryll, through Midelbrogh, Der Veer, Dort, Rotterdam, and Delft, to the Hague, where he presented himself to the Queen of Bohemia"s Court. Thence he went on to Leyden, Utrecht, Rynen, and Nimeguen, to where the Dutch army was encamped about Genep, a strong fortress on the Wahale river. Here he enrolled himself and served for a few days as a volunteer in the Queen"s army "according to the compliment," being attached to the English company of Captain Apsley: and in this capacity he "received many civilities." Even when thus playing at soldering, he did not like the roughness of a soldier"s life, "for the sun piercing the canva.s.s of the tent, it was, during the day, unsufferable, and at night not seldom infested with mists and fogs, which ascended from the river." However, during the few days he took his fair share in the work. "As the turn came about, I watched on a horne work neere our quarters, and trailed a pike, being the next morning relieved by a company of French. This was our continual duty till the Castle was re-fortified, and all danger of quitting that station secured." Retracing his steps to Rotterdam, Delft, the Hague and Leyden, he also visited Haerlem, Amsterdam, Antwerp, Brussels and various other towns before returning by way of Ostend, Dunkirk and Dover to Wotton, where he celebrated his 21st birthday.

Although his _Diary_ does not contain any details on such matters as Pepys would have been free to record in his cipher, John Evelyn was probably rather a gay and pleasure-loving youth about this time. A suspicion of this seems justified by the fact that he "was elected one of the Comptrolers of the Middle Temple-revellers, as the fashion of ye young Students and Gentlemen was, the Christmas being kept this year (1641) with great solemnity; but being desirous to pa.s.se it in the Country, I got leave to resign my staffe of office, and went with my brother Richard to Wotton." From January till March he was back in London "studying a little, but dancing and fooling more."

III

_Evelyn"s Early Manhood, Continental Travels and Studies, Voluntary Exile, and Return to England 1647._

It was hardly possible that anyone situated as Evelyn was could hold aloof from the party strife when civil war broke out during the course of this year. And, of course, he was on the Royalist side. But he did not serve long with the troops. Here is his own record of that military service,--"Oct. 3rd. To Chichester, and hence the next day to see the siege of Portsmouth; for now was that b.l.o.o.d.y difference betweene the King and Parliament broken out, which ended in the fatal tragedy so many years after. It was on the day of its being render"d to Sir William Waller, which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Colonel Goring the Governor, now embarqueing for France. This day was fought that signal Battaile at Edgehill. Thence I went to Southampton and Winchester, where I visited the Castle, Schole, Church, and King Arthur"s Round Table, but especially the Church, and its Saxon Kings"

Monuments, which I esteemed a worthy antiquity. 12th. November, was the Battle of Braineford surprisingly fought, and to the greate consternation of the Citty had his Majesty (as twas believed he would) pursu"d his advantage. I came in with my horse and armes just at the retreate, but was not permitted to stay longer than the 15th. by reason of the Army"s marching to Glocester, which would have left both me and my brother expos"d to ruine, without any advantage to his Majestie. Dec.

7th. I went from Wotton to London to see the so much celebrated line of com"unication, and on the 10th. returned to Wotton, n.o.body knowing of my having been in his Majestie"s Army."

During the first half of 1643 Evelyn employed himself entirely in rural occupations, visiting the garden and vineyard of Hatfield and similar places. From time to time, however, he made many journeys to and from London. What he sometimes saw there gave him much food for ample reflection. "May 2nd. I went from Wotton to London, where I saw the furious and zelous people demolish that stately Crosse in Cheapside. On the 4th. I returned with no little regrett for the confusion that threatened us. Resolving to possess myself in some quiet if it might be, in a time of so great jealosy, I built by my Brother"s permission a study, made a fishpond, an island, and some other solitudes and retirements, at Wotton, which gave the first occasion of improving them to those water-works and gardens which afterwards succeeded them, and became at that tyme the most famous of England." But, w.i.l.l.y nilly, he was bound to become dragged into action on the King"s behalf. "July 12th. I sent my black manege horse and furniture with a friend to his Majestie then at Oxford. 23rd. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myselfe; but finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and which had been a greate cause of my perpetual motions. .h.i.therto between Wotton and London, Oct. 2nd. I obtayned a lycence of his Majestie, dated at Oxford and sign"d by the King, to travell againe." Accordingly, on 7th. November, he took boat at the Tower wharf for Sittingbourne, "being only a payre of oares, expos"d to a hideous storm, thence posting to Dover accompanied by an Oxford friend, Mr.

Thicknesse, and crossing the Channel to Calais."

Proceeding by Boulogne, Monstreuil, Abbeville, Beauvais, Beaumont, and St. Denys to Paris, of which he gives a very interesting account, he threw himself into the social life of that gay capital. His first step was to make his duty to Sir Richard Browne, afterwards his father-in-law, then in charge of British affairs pending the arrival of the Earl of Norwich, who came immediately after that as Amba.s.sador Extraordinary. That Evelyn"s purse was fairly well lined the Parisian pa.s.sages in his _Diary_ distinctly show. He appears to have taken part in many gay excursions and junkettings, though he sometimes reckoned the cost. "At an inn in this village (St. Germains en Lay) is an host who treats all the greate persons in princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, as I have don. Indeede the entertainment is very splendid, and not unreasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meate, and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revellings, as being out of all noise and observance." Wherever he visited the royal gardens and villas, or those of the great n.o.bles and other magnates, he writes rapturously of what he saw. Sometimes, though, his joyous optimism rather leads one to doubt the quality of his taste, as when, writing of Richelieu"s villa at Ruell, he says "This leads to the Citroniere, which is a n.o.ble conserve of all those rarities; and at the end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oyle, as large as the real one at Rome, so well don that even a man skilled in painting may mistake it for stone and sculpture. The skie and hills which seem to be between the arches are so naturall that swallows and other birds, thinking to fly through, have dashed themselves against the wall. I was infinitely taken with this agreeable cheate." But he was certainly gradually acquiring the materials which were afterwards to be so well used by him in his great works on gardening. After a tour made in Normandy with Sir John Cotton, a Cambridgeshire knight, he quitted Paris in April, 1644. Marching across by Chartres and Estamps to Orleans, the party of which he formed one had an encounter with brigands, "for no sooner were we entred two or three leagues into ye Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from ye hedges and frequent covert, slew fowre upon the spot... I had greate cause to give G.o.d thankes for this escape." Taking boat, he went down the Loire to St. Dieu, and thence rode to Blois and on to Tours, where he stayed till the autumn. "Here I took a master of the language and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself sometimes at the maill, and sometymes about the towne." Here, too, he paid his duty to the Queen of England, "having newly arrived, and going for Paris." In the latter part of September, still accompanied by his friend Thicknesse, he left Tours and "travelled towards the more southerne part of France, minding now to shape my course so as I might winter in Italy." Journeying southward, partly by road and partly by river, he visited Lyons, Avignon, and Ma.r.s.eilles, whither he wended his way deliciously "thro" a country sweetely declining to the South and Mediterranean coasts, full of vineyards and olive-yards, orange-trees, myrtils, pomegranads, and the like sweete plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated villas ...... as if they were so many heapes of snow dropp"d out of the clouds amongst these perennial greenes." Taking mules to Cannes, he went by sea to Genoa "having procur"d a bill of health (without which there is no admission at any towne in Italy)." On reaching "Mongus, now cal"d Monaco" on the route, "we were hastened away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go up and see this strong and considerable place."

On Oct. 16th., after "much ado and greate perill" he landed on Italian soil. He was fully prepared to have the most delicious pleasure in this cla.s.sical land, having already, even during the stormy weather off the coast, "smelt the peculiar joys of Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron, and ja.s.smine flowers for divers leagues seaward."

It would be pleasant to ramble through Italy in Evelyn"s company, and to share with him the many enjoyments recorded in his _Diary_: but s.p.a.ce forbids. From Genoa he went to Leghorn and Pisa, from Pisa to Florence, thence to Sienna, and on to Rome. "I came to Rome on the 4th November, 1644, about 5 at night, and being perplexed for a convenient lodging, wandered up and down on horseback, till at last one conducted us to Monsieur Pet.i.ts, a Frenchman, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and having bargained with my host for 20 crownes a moneth, I caused a good fire to be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so very wet.

The next morning (for I was resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted with several persons who had long lived at Rome."

Evelyn"s description of the interesting sights he saw in Rome is so good that it might well be perused in place of modern guide-books by those visiting the city. There is a delightful attractiveness about it, in which these up-to-date works are sometimes wanting. But even his youthful energy began to tire, and his keen appet.i.te to become sated with continuous sightseeing. After more than six months of it "we now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, except what should happen to come in our way, when my companion Mr. Henshaw or myself should go out to take the aire." Then, however, as now for some people, the crowning event of a visit to Rome was to receive the Papal blessing. This Evelyn desired and obtained, although the event is not recorded in his diary with any great enthusiasm. "May, 4th. Having seen the entrie of ye amba.s.sador of Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where, by favour of our Cardinal Protector, Frair Barberini, I was admitted into the consistorie, heard the amba.s.sador make his ovation in Latine to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state or throne, and changing two pontifical miters; after which I was presented to kisse his toe, that is, his embroder"d slipper, two Cardinals holding up his vest and surplice, and then being sufficiently bless"d with his thumb and two fingers for that day, I return"d home to dinner."

He quitted Rome about the middle of May after a sojourn there of seven months, which had occasioned him so small an outlay that he remarked thereon in his Diary. "The bills of exchange I took up from my first entering Italy till I went from Rome amounted but to 616 _ducanti di banco_, though I purchas"d many books, pictures, and curiosities." Going northwards by Sienna, Leghorn, Lucca, Florence, Bologna, and Ferrara, he reached Venice early in June. Arriving "extreamly weary and beaten" with the journey, he went and enjoyed the new luxury of a Turkish bath. "This bath did so open my pores that it cost me one of the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of necessary caution in keeping myselfe warme for some time after; for coming out, I immediately began to visit the famous places of the city; and travellers who come in to Italy do nothing but run up and down to see sights."

Evelyn had the good fortune to see Venice _en fete_, and in those days that must have been a sight well worth seeing. He saw the Doge espouse the Adriatic by casting a gold ring into it on Ascension day with very great pomp and ceremony. "It was now Ascension Weeke, and the greate mart or faire of ye whole yeare was kept, every body at liberty and jollie. The n.o.blemen stalking with their ladys on _choppines_; these are high-heel"d shoes, particularly affected by these proude dames, or, as some say, invented to keepe them at home, it being very difficult to walke with them; whence one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames, replied, they were _mezzo carne, mezzo ligno_, half flesh, half wood, and he would have none of them. The truth is, their garb is very odd, as seeming always in masquerade; their other habits also totaly different from all nations."

In Venice Evelyn made arrangements for visiting the Holy Land and parts of Syria, Egypt, and Turkey; but they fell through owing to the vessel, in which he would have sailed, being requisitioned to carry provisions to Candia, then under attack from the Turks. Forced to abandon this project, he remained in Venice "being resolved to spend some moneths here in study, especially physic and anatomie, of both which there was now the most famous professors in Europe." But in the autumn Mr.

Thicknesse, "my dear friend, and till now my constant fellow traveller,"

was obliged to return to England on private affairs; so Evelyn was left alone in Venice. Very shortly after that he had an illness which seems to have at one time threatened a fatal termination. "Using to drink my wine cool"d with snow and ice, as the manner here is, I was so afflicted with the angina and soare-throat, that it had almost cost me my life.

After all the remedies Cavalier Veslingius, cheife professor here, could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physician) being call"d made me be cupp"d and scarified in the back in foure places, which began to give me breath, and consequently life, for I was in ye utmost danger: but G.o.d being mercifull to me, I was after a fortnight abroad againe; when changing my lodging I went over against Pozzo Pinto, where I bought for winter provisions 3000 weight of excellent grapes, and pressed my owne wine, which proved incomparable liquor." Its goodness, indeed, seems to have been the death of it. "Oct. 31st. Being my birth-day, the nuns of St. Catherine"s sent me flowers of silk-work. We were very studious all this winter till Christmas, when on twelfth day we invited all the English and Scotts in towne to feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably." In explanation of this pa.s.sage, it needs to be said that he had soon again changed his lodging and gone to reside with three English friends "neere St. Catherine"s over against the monasterie of nunnes, where we hired the whole house and lived very n.o.bly. Here I learned to play on ye theorbo, taught by Sig. Dominico Ba.s.sano."

After "the folly and madnesse of the Carnevall" was over, Evelyn left Venice for Padua in January, 1646, but went back in March to take leave of his friends there, and at Easter set out on his return journey to England in company with the poet Waller, who had been glad to go abroad after being much worried by the Puritan party. They travelled by way of Vicenza, Verona, Brescia, Milan, the Lago Maggiore, the Simplon Pa.s.s, Sion, and St. Maurice to Geneva. Here again Evelyn became sick nigh unto death, from small-pox contracted at Beveretta, the night before reaching Geneva. "Being extremely weary and complaining of my head, and finding little accommodation in the house, I caus"d one of our hostesses daughters to be removed out of her bed and went immediately into it whilst it was yet warme, being so heavy with pain and drowsinesse that I would not stay to have the sheets chang"d; but I shortly after payd dearly for my impatience, falling sick of the small-pox so soon as I came to Geneva, for by the smell of frankincense and ye tale of ye good woman told me of her daughter having had an ague, I afterwards concluded she had been newly recovered of the small-pox." Becoming very ill he was bled of the physician "a very learned old man..... He afterwards acknowledg"d that he should not have bled me had he suspected ye small-pox, which brake out a day after." As nurse he had a Swiss matron afflicted with goitre, "whose monstrous throat, when I sometimes awak"d out of unquiet slumbers, would affright me." But again he was spared for the work he was destined to do. "By G.o.d"s mercy after five weeks keeping my chamber I went abroad."

Leaving Geneva on the 5th July 1646, Evelyn"s party went by way of Lyons, La Charite, and Orleans to Paris, arriving "rejoic"d that after so many disasters and accidents in a tedious peregrination, I was gotten so neere home, and here I resolv"d to rest myselfe before I went further. It was now October, and the onely time that in my whole life I spent most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses; but I soon recover"d my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my danceing, and such exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not in much reputation amongst the sober Italians."