As paper patterns soon wear out, after a waist and skirt have been perfectly fitted, it is a good plan to cut an exact pattern of cambric, both skirt and waist, tracing seams and notching the parts. This will enable the home dressmaker to cut and make all ordinary dresses with little trouble and with but one trying on. It is always well to try on once, as materials differ in texture and a slight change may be necessary.
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLACING PATTERNS
At the left, on plain or symmetrical designs; at the right, on figured or napped goods. _a_--Half of front gore; _b_--Second gore; _c_--Third gore; _d_--Back gore; _e_--Front waist; _f_--Under arm piece; _g_--Side back; _h_--Back; _i_--Outside sleeve; _j_--Under sleeve; _c"
d"_--Piecing of gores _c, d_.]
[Sidenote: Placing Patterns]
If the material is plain, has no nap, or if the design is perfectly symmetrical, the gores may be alternated, the top of one gore coming opposite the bottom of the next. The half pattern of the front gore is always laid on a _lengthwise fold_ of the goods. If the goods is wide, the other gores may be cut double with the cloth folded lengthwise. With narrow goods, the cloth may be folded end to end after the middle gore has been cut out, and the other gores cut double. Care should be taken that the line of holes in the middle of the gores runs exactly in a line with the warp of the material, i. e., parallel to the selvage.
If the goods has a figure, the design should run upwards. Any nap should run downward, except with velvet or velveteen, in which it should run upwards. With such goods, the gores if cut double must be placed on a lengthwise fold, with the lengths running the same way. If the goods is narrow, the gores may have to be cut single, reversing the pattern (turning it over) so that both pieces may not be for the same side.
[Sidenote: Pinning Patterns]
Pin the middle of the pattern to the goods and smooth towards each end, pinning securely at top and bottom. Avoid too many pins and pin carefully, otherwise the pattern will be displaced.
[Sidenote: Cutting Out]
After the pattern is securely pinned, cut out the gores, using long, sharp shears. Care should be taken not to lift the material from the table, not to have jagged, uneven edges, as both time and material will be wasted in straightening them. Open the shears as wide as possible, taking a long sweep of the material, and do not allow the points of the shears to come together. Mark all notches with basting thread, tailor"s chalk, or notch the goods if it does not ravel.
The back gores should be cut in the same way. They are usually wider than the front gores and may require piecing, which should be done along the warp threads.
Now remove the pattern, pin carefully all pieces together and fold as little as possible. The trinity--_pin_, _baste_, _press_--should be written in large letters in every sewing room, for much of the beauty of the gown depends upon these three.
[Sidenote: Joining the Skirt]
To join the skirt, pin the side gores to the front gores, beginning at the top, with pins running across the seams, then begin at the top of the skirt and baste downward, allowing all unevenness to come out at the bottom. Baste straight and evenly, taking one st.i.tch at a time. Several st.i.tches should never be taken at once on thick or piled goods, as the side next to the sewer is apt to be fuller in that case. When all seams are basted, try on the skirt and make all changes necessary before st.i.tching. Both the outside skirt and any under or "drop" skirt should be fitted as carefully as a waist.
[Sidenote: Lined Skirt]
If the skirt is to be lined the lining should be made and fitted first, then ripped and the outside carefully basted on the lining, being well stretched over the lining, care being taken to have the warp of the outside and the lining run the same way. This will prevent the lining from drawing the goods.
[Sidenote: St.i.tching Skirts]
A st.i.tch of medium length should be used on all seams whether white goods or cloth. If the st.i.tch is too long, the seam will "gap" and will show the thread; if too short, the seam is apt to draw. The line of st.i.tching must be absolutely parallel inside or outside of the basting or the curve will be ruined. Use silk or the best cotton for st.i.tching skirts and be sure that the needle is not too coa.r.s.e.
[Sidenote: Finishing Seams]
After st.i.tching, all bastings along the seams should be taken out by cutting the thread in several places. Never pull a basting the length of the skirt. The seams should be opened and pressed according to directions. The seams may be finished with a taffeta binding, overcast, st.i.tched flat or notched, as the case demands.
[Sidenote: Stiffening]
If stiffening is used at the bottom of a lined skirt it should be fitted to each lining gore separately and securely st.i.tched. A light weight canvas should be st.i.tched to a heavy cloth skirt at the bottom, if several rows of st.i.tching or braid are to finish the bottom of the skirt.
[Sidenote: Placket]
The placket may be finished before the two back gores are pinned to the front, if preferred. If done before joining the gores the placket can be pressed better and the front is not so liable to be crushed. On the left side of the skirt sew an underlap of sufficient length to extend well below the end of the opening. Face the right side of the opening with a piece of the goods, or tape not too wide, hem or cat-st.i.tch to the skirt, and finish with hooks and eyes, loops, or any fastening that will secure the placket.
[Sidenote: Putting on Band]
The skirt is now ready for the band, which should be narrow. Always cut parallel with the selvage and the length of the underlap longer than the waist measure, allowing for turning at the ends. The band should never be thick and clumsy and not too tight. Try on the skirt and fit the band carefully, marking the seam with pins, a line of basting, or chalk. Hold the skirt easy on the band and baste with small st.i.tches, then st.i.tch on the machine. If the skirt is too tight around the hips the plaits will fall apart at the back. If the skirt is stretched on the band the seams will not fall in a straight line. After the band is securely st.i.tched and finished with hooks and eyes adjust the length by turning under at the bottom and pinning, after which baste all around and try on again to make sure that the length is correct.
[Sidenote: Finishing the Bottom]
A gored outside garment should be finished with a true bias or a fitted facing, carefully st.i.tched on. It is possible to finish the bottom of a simple house dress or thin skirt with a hem if the fullness made by turning is disposed of in gathers or fine pleats. A bias facing, however, is always preferable. If of heavy or lined goods the finish should be velveteen or braid the same color as the skirt. These bindings come in different widths and grades. Braids should always be shrunken by wetting and drying thoroughly; one wetting is not enough. Velveteen should be applied loosely, so as not to shrink or draw after it becomes damp on the skirt.
[Sidenote: Applying Velveteen Binding]
The right side of the velveteen should be carefully basted with small, even st.i.tches to the edge of the facing. It may be hemmed to the facing or machine st.i.tched just inside the basting, which need not be removed.
It is then turned, allowing a very narrow portion to show below the edge, and basted with close st.i.tches, pressed, hemmed down to the facing by hand, or cat st.i.tched without turning the edge. Be careful not to let the st.i.tches show on the right side, nor let the binding twist or pucker. The joining of the velveteen should be near the seam in the back.
Another method is to cut off the bottom edge of the skirt a quarter of an inch from the turning line; apply the wrong side of the velveteen to the right side of the skirt, baste carefully close to the edge and st.i.tch on the machine through velveteen, cloth, and lining (or facing) just inside the basting which is left in. The bottom of the raw edge is turned up, basted close to the edge allowing the velveteen to show a very little. The upper edge of the velveteen is secured as before by turning and hemming or catst.i.tched without turning. The ill.u.s.tration shows this method of applying the velveteen which is first st.i.tched to the lining and turned with the edge. This makes a firm, rather stiff finish.
[Sidenote: Braid]
Braid is st.i.tched on to the bottom of a skirt with a narrow edge showing, or it may be applied like the velveteen, with a doubled edge at the bottom. The doubled edge will wear better.
[Sidenote: Finish of Wash Skirts]
Skirts that are to be washed and therefore which are very likely to shrink must be finished at the bottom with a wide hem--at least six inches--the fullness made by turning being disposed of carefully in pleats or gathers.
[Ill.u.s.tration: APPLYING VELVETEEN BINDING]
If desired, the bias seam down the back of the skirt may have a narrow woven tape or selvage of thin goods st.i.tched in with the seam. This strengthens the seam and prevents dragging. The skirt when finished should always be longer in front than in the back.
All cloth dresses demand every detail of finish to make them complete and able to stand hard usage, but simple house dresses and thin summer dresses do not require such careful finish.
SHIRT WAISTS
[Sidenote: Trace Seams]
In planning a waist the same rules should be observed in placing patterns, etc., as described for skirts, except that the lines and seams should be traced with a tracing wheel or marked carefully. In making a waist of any kind care must be taken to cut all the pieces the proper way of the material.
[Sidenote: Baste Lavishly]
The difficulty of putting garments together after they have been cut properly is due to undue haste, lack of care in details and insufficient pressing. The apparently simple act of basting is really of primal importance, particularly in the making of a waist. One need never be afraid of basting too much or too carefully. Economize cloth and time in cutting, but use basting lavishly.
[Sidenote: Altering Waist Patterns]
The waist pattern may be made shorter by laying folds across both back and front. The fold across the back should be two inches above the waist line and across the front two inches below the arm"s eye (in the back).
Securely pin or baste the folds in the pattern. If the pattern is of nearly the correct size it may be only necessary to make the waist shorter and smaller. The neck and arm"s eye will seldom need altering.
The sleeves may be shortened in the same way by laying folds in the pattern, above and below the elbow.
PLAN FOR MAKING A SHIRT WAIST