In sewing gathers on a band they should also come next the "feed," as it takes up the side next to it a little faster than the upper side. When the bias, or cross-way side of the seam, or gathers are next to the "feed" the material runs along smoothly, but if the straight side is towards it there is apt to be a pucker.
St.i.tching can be done more easily on the right of the presser foot with the bulk of the material lying to the left. The tendency of the "feed"
or teeth is to crowd the work off the edge as well as forward and the st.i.tching may be guided better on the right side.
All straight seams should be stretched to the full extent of their straight edge in st.i.tching, as the work pa.s.ses under the presser foot.
When a large amount of machine sewing is to be done--such as household linen, sheets, pillow cases and underwear--it is a good plan to do all the basting and hand work first and keep the machine st.i.tching for a rainy or a damp day, as the thread is then less apt to break. A current of air or a breeze from an open window on a dry day will often cause the thread to snap. For the same reason the machine should never stand near the fire or radiator.
TEXTILES AND CLOTHING
PART II
READ CAREFULLY. This test consists of two parts,--answers to the questions and the making of models. Both should be sent to the School for inspection and correction. All models should be made about 4 by 6 inches so that they may be put into the envelope provided without being folded. Two series of models are given; either or both may be made.
1. What instruction have you ever had in sewing?
(b) Has the subject any educational value?
2. What are the common basting st.i.tches, and for what are they used?
3. Can you make the running st.i.tch properly? How is it done?
4. For what purpose may the cat st.i.tch be used?
5. Hems and Seams: Describe the different kinds for thick and thin materials, including those for flannel and state when they should be used.
6. Describe three kinds of plackets.
7. How are gathers made, and how sewed into a band?
8. What can you say of fastenings?
9. With what sewing machine are you most familiar, and what are its peculiarities?
10. What st.i.tches or methods described in this lesson are new to you?
Note: After completing the answers, sign your full name.
MODELS, FIRST SERIES
I. St.i.tCHES. On a piece of cotton about 4 by 6 inches, make with colored thread (1) a line of even basting st.i.tches, (2) uneven basting st.i.tches, (3) tacking, (4) running, (5) back st.i.tch, (6) running and back, (7) half back.
With embroidery silk make a row each of (1) cat st.i.tch, (2) single feather, (3) double feather, (4) chain, (5) rows of French knots with border of outline st.i.tch.
Make your initial in one corner, using any st.i.tch preferred.
Overcast one long edge of the model, double overcast the opposite side, finish one end with plain loop or blanket st.i.tch, and the other end with some fancy loop st.i.tch. Fasten all threads as described in the text.
II. SEAMS AND HEMS. (a) Join two pieces of fine cotton with a French seam at the long edge, about 2 by 5 inches, with warp running lengthwise. (b) Cut a piece of muslin on a true bias and attach the bias edge to _a_ with a felled seam. (c) Trim the model and hem all sides so that the finished model may measure 4 by 6 inches.
III. DARNING AND PATCHING. (a) In gingham or figures cotton, make an underset patch of a square hole, matching the goods. (b) Darn a three-cornered tear.
IV. FASTENINGS. The proper distance from the edge of folded goods make (a) b.u.t.ton hole, one end rounded and the other finished with a bar tack. (b) Under it make a partly finished, _barred_ b.u.t.tonhole. (c) Below this make an eyelet hole, (d) below the eyelet hole a loop, and sew on an eye.
On a second piece of folded goods opposite the first b.u.t.tonhole, (a) sew a four-hole b.u.t.ton, corresponding in size to the b.u.t.tonhole. (b) Opposite the second b.u.t.tonhole sew on a two-hole b.u.t.ton; (c) below, sew on two hooks corresponding in position to the loop and eye. Make the two parts of the model so that the corresponding fastenings will join.
V. Ap.r.o.n. Using fine muslin, make a doll"s ap.r.o.n, gathering into band at top. Above hem at the bottom, make two cl.u.s.ters of tucks of three each.
MODELS. SECOND SERIES. FOR EXPERIENCED WORKERS
I. ROLLED HEM; HEM St.i.tCHING. Make a doll"s ap.r.o.n of fine muslin, attach top to band with rolled, whipped gathers.
Make two cl.u.s.ters of tucks of three each at the bottom and hem st.i.tch the bottom hem.
II. SLEEVE PLACKET. Make a taped sleeve placket as shown in the ill.u.s.tration.
III. MAKE A SLOT SEAM, using dress goods and finish with an arrow head. (b) Make a large cloak b.u.t.tonhole.
IV. MITRE EMBROIDERY and finish as shown in the ill.u.s.tration. (b) Match and join the same.
V. EMBROIDERY: Make something small and useful--a doily, stock, collar--ill.u.s.trating some style of embroidery, or make a model of the first series which will afford you the most new experience.
[Ill.u.s.tration: MAKING MEXICAN DRAWN-WORK]
TEXTILES AND CLOTHING
PART III
DRESSMAKING
[Sidenote: Good Tools Necessary]
The greatest obstacle to home sewing of any kind is the failure to provide suitable materials with which to do the work. To do good work--to make attractive gowns--the simple tools which the work requires must be provided. First, there should be needles and pins of the best quality and make. They should be fine and well pointed. The needle should be suitable to the material to be sewn and sufficiently large to carry the thread easily. A blunt or bent needle should never be used.
Long or milliner"s needles are preferred by many for basting.
[Sidenote: Thread]