[Sidenote: Fitting]
When the waist is on the figure, pull it well down to the waist line, pin the front linings together beginning with the neck, then lift the waist a little in front to give fullness and pin to the waist line. Mark for the hem down the front, finish the edge with a well-fitted facing under which is a thin bias strip of canvas interlining for b.u.t.tons or hooks and eyes. Marks showing the position of fastenings should be made at this time.
[Sidenote: Fitting of Neck and Sleeves]
The neck and arm"s eye should be fitted by making slashes in the curve--never cut around the curve. For the collar or neck band have a true bias of thin canvas or crinoline and draw it around the neck and pin with the ends _out_, towards the worker. (Never lap any edges of waist, belt or collar when fitting.) Mark on the waist where the lower edge of the neck band touches. Draw the sleeve on the arm, pin and mark where it sets right, seeing that the elbow fullness is in the right place and that it does not twist at the hand.
As in the lining, all changes necessary in fitting should, if possible, be made in the straight seams, as it is difficult to preserve the proper lines of the curved ones. The shoulder seams should be the last one to be basted.
After all faults are remedied, the seams are carefully st.i.tched along the line or basting, the bastings removed, the seams pressed and finished. The last seam to be st.i.tched securely should be the one at the shoulder. By leaving this open, all fullness can be smoothed upwards and any tr.i.m.m.i.n.g can be let into the seam.
[Ill.u.s.tration: BACK OF WAIST, WELL MATCHED]
[Sidenote: Boning]
Sew in featherbone by cat st.i.tching to the seam, first finishing the ends by b.u.t.ton-holing. All seams should be stretched well when sewing on bones of any kind.
Curved seams should be notched every one or two inches at the curve and bound or overcast. This allows them to lie flat.
[Sidenote: Draped Waist]
In a draped waist the lining is made separate and not st.i.tched into any seam of the outside except at the shoulder. In fitting the outside the back is pinned on to the lining firmly, then the front and finally at the underarm seams. The seams are then basted, the waist tried on again, alterations made, if necessary, seams st.i.tched and the bottom finished with the lining, as desired.
Three eyes or other fastenings should always be sewed at the seams in the waist line at the back to secure the skirt to the waist, thus preventing it from sinking below the waist line.
[Sidenote: Finish of Bottom of Waist]
The finish of the lower edge of the waist is often a problem. If the waist is to be worn under the skirt, just how to finish or whether to finish it at all is a question. The first step is to trim the edges evenly. A line of st.i.tching and simple overcast will show less through a close-fitting skirt of light weight material. When binding is used, it should lie perfectly flat, twice st.i.tched and pressed well.
If the waist is to be worn outside the skirt, a narrow bias strip of canvas should be basted on the wrong side, the waist turned up over this as directed for sleeve and collar finish. Over this a bias facing of silk may be hemmed or cat-st.i.tched.
[Sidenote: Fitting Irregularity of Figure]
In spite of careful measuring and all care in cutting, the waist may not fit, owing to some deformity or peculiarity of the figure. Such figures require especially careful fitting and the hollow place should be filled out with wadding. This needs to be done with the greatest care and nicety.
[Ill.u.s.tration: MAKING BIAS STRIPS FOR FACINGS]
Avoid too frequent fittings. The bias portions of the bodice are liable to stretch out of shape and too much handling of the waist takes away the freshness. This is one reason why it is advisable to make the sleeves and collar first in order that the whole waist may be fitted at once and all alterations made to fit both sides. A perfect figure is the exception rather than the rule and the side that is not developed should be well fitted, whether sleeve or bodice.
COAT OR TIGHT FITTING SLEEVES
[Sidenote: Altering Patterns]
If it is necessary to lengthen the sleeve, say two inches, cut the pattern at right angles to the lines indicated by the dots, above and below the elbow. The slashing should be done exactly at the same distance apart in the upper and under portions of the sleeve in order to retain the proper shape and size of the top and bottom. Separate the parts, allowing one inch above and one inch below the elbow.
To shorten the sleeve, lap the slashed part or lay a fold in the pattern instead of slashing. In either case, care should be taken that the fold or lap is of even width all the way across, so that the original shape of the sleeve will not be lost.
[Sidenote: Placing of Patterns]
Too much care cannot be taken in arranging the pattern of the sleeve according to the thread of the goods. Especially is this the case in the two-piece or coat sleeve. Generally the top part of the outside seam and the lower part of the same side should be placed at the edge or fold of the goods, so that the two run in the same straight line. In all cases, the foundation sleeve or lining should be cut and fitted before the outer portion is adjusted. Ample time should be given to the fitting and basting of the sleeve. The "set" of the sleeve is very often unsatisfactory because the cutting and original basting was done in a careless manner. Remember that greater care is required in sleeve making than in any part of the garment. Each sleeve is complete in itself and one must not deviate from the other in size, arrangement or ornament, or general appearance. They should be cut, basted and fitted alike and if the arms differ in size or length the sleeves must be so adjusted as to conceal the inequality.
The sleeves should be made at the same time and before the cuffs, then the cuffs, puffs, or whatever special tr.i.m.m.i.n.g is to be applied to them should be put on both sleeves at the same time. If the second sleeve is not made or trimmed until after the first is finished, it will be much more difficult to secure exactly the same effect. If it is impossible to complete both sleeves at one time, make the sleeves one day and the cuffs or tr.i.m.m.i.n.g the next day.
In making the coat sleeves the general methods are the same, but each season brings out new styles which the maker will have to understand before proper making and finishing can be acquired. Always master the simple and standard patterns and the minor changes dictated by fashion--new fancies and effects--will not be difficult to acquire after a little experience has been gained.
The lining for both sleeves should be fitted and the outside cut by them.
[Sidenote: Joining the Parts]
After economical cutting, trace the seams carefully, and baste the outside to the lining, basting both uppers before the under sections.
Join the under and upper parts by pinning and basting, the outside seam first, beginning in the middle of the sleeve and working toward each end. The outside seams should be begun at the notch at the elbow, working toward each end. Where the sleeve calls for gathering the fullness should be distributed between the notches and the two portions of the sleeve should be secured at this point, before or after basting the upper or lower portions of each sleeve.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FINISHING OF SEAMS
Notched at Curves and Bound or Overcast.]
St.i.tch the seams just outside the basting, then remove the line of basting along the seam and press. Trim off all rough edges. The inside seam is opened and notched at the bend of the elbow and an inch or two above and below and bound with silk binding ribbon or evenly overcast with twist or mercerized cotton.
[Sidenote: Adding Cuffs]
If an elaborate cuff or tr.i.m.m.i.n.g is to be added to the sleeve, whether full or plain, it should be made separately and blind st.i.tched to the faced sleeve. In case the sleeve is gathered the fullness can be put into a narrow band, the exact size of the cuff, the cuff then sewed on the band.
[Sidenote: Putting in Sleeves]
In putting the sleeve in the armhole, be sure that both seams are at the same point, that both have the same amount of fullness at the top, and that the plaits or gathers are equally distributed from front to back.
The sleeve should be held next to the worker and should lie easy from seam to seam at the under arm. Baste with close, even st.i.tches or back st.i.tch with coa.r.s.e cotton or twist the same color as the waist. St.i.tch in the sleeves on this line of basting, keeping the armholes curved while the st.i.tching is being done. Trim off edges and finish with binding or close overcasting. The most careful binding is clumsy compared to the overcast finish. Turn the seam toward the shoulder and hem to the lining over the shoulders. This will do away with the stand-up look that sleeves sometimes have.
[Sidenote: Finish at Wrist]
For the sleeve finished plainly around the wrist, a piece of bias crinoline should be fitted at the hand. To do this, turn the sleeve _right_ side out and slip the crinoline in the sleeve over the left hand and adjust by moving the fingers until the crinoline shapes itself to the sleeve perfectly, then pin and baste at the top and bottom. In this way the crinoline will be neither too short nor too loose and all wrinkling will be prevented. Turn the sleeve inside out and cut off the crinoline one-fourth of an inch from the edge, keeping a perfectly true edge, turn the sleeve over the crinoline, baste the outside part of the sleeve and cat-st.i.tch to the crinoline, then cat-st.i.tch the crinoline to the lining. Remove the lower basting and press. A bias strip of silk sufficiently wide to cover the crinoline is hemmed at the lower edge and to the sleeve lining just above the interlining. Whenever it is possible to do so use the cat-st.i.tch. It is a neat finish, easily and quickly done, takes less time than hemming, besides being less bulky.
If the bottom of a coat sleeve is to be left open at the back or slashed, an interfacing of light weight canvas will be necessary. Turn the outside portion of the sleeve over the canvas, care being taken to turn all corners at the slash, and curves, press and st.i.tch, face after the st.i.tching is done. It may be st.i.tched better if the back seam is left open.
[Sidenote: Pressing Sleeves]
In the coat sleeve both seams are curved and should be pressed on a curved board. A rocking chair inverted, with the rocker covered with soft cloth, makes a good board on which to press the curved seams of a sleeve.
COLLARS
The shaped, standing collar is worn with waists of all kinds and is always a popular neck finish. In a close-fitting collar made of heavy material an interlining of canvas or crinoline is necessary. The interlining should be cut one-fourth of an inch smaller all around if the collar is to be blind st.i.tched to the waist. If it is to be sewed to the neck, in a seam, the lining should be the same size as the collar at the neck. Baste this interlining to the collar material, cut out the corners of the material, and hem the extended portion to the interlining. The interlining should always be cut bias, whether the outside is bias or straight. Hem the collar lining to the collar.