During the reign of slavery, the Christmas holidays brought with them general alarm. To prevent insurrections, the militia was uniformly called out, and an array made of all that was formidable in military enginery. This custom was dispensed with at once, after emanc.i.p.ation. As Christmas came on the Sabbath, it tested the respect for that day. The morning was similar, in all respects, to the morning of the Sabbath described above; the same serenity reigning everywhere--the same quiet in the household movements, and the same tranquillity prevailing through the streets. We attended morning service at the Moravian chapel.
Notwithstanding the descriptions we had heard of the great change which emanc.i.p.ation had wrought in the observance of Christmas, we were quite unprepared for the delightful reality around us. Though thirty thousand slaves had but lately been "turned loose" upon a white population of less than three thousand! instead of meeting with scenes of disorder, what were the sights which greeted our eyes? The neat attire, the serious demeanor, and the thronged procession to the place of worship.
In every direction the roads leading into town were lined with happy beings--attired for the house of G.o.d. When groups coming from different quarters met at the corners, they stopped a moment to exchange salutations and shake hands, and then proceeded on together.
The Moravian chapel was slightly decorated with green branches. They were the only adorning which marked the plain sanctuary of a plain people. It was crowded with black and colored people, and very many stood without, who could not get in. After the close of the service in the chapel, the minister proceeded to the adjacent school room, and preached to another crowded audience. In the evening the Wesleyan chapel was crowded to overflowing. The aisles and communion place were full. On all festivals and holidays, which occur on the Sabbath, the churches and chapels are more thronged than on any other Lord"s day.
It is hardly necessary to state that there was no instance of a dance or drunken riot, nor wild shouts of mirth during the day. The Christmas, instead of breaking in upon the repose of the Sabbath, seemed only to enhance the usual solemnity of the day.
The holidays continued until the next Wednesday morning, and the same order prevailed to the close of them. On Monday there were religious services in most of the churches and chapels, where sabbath-school addresses, discourses on the relative duties of husband and wife, and on kindred subjects, were delivered.
An intelligent gentleman informed us that the negroes, while slaves, used to spend during the Christmas holidays, the extra money which they got during the year. Now they save it--_to buy small tracts of land for their own cultivation_.
The Governor informed us that the police returns did not report a single case of arrest during the holidays. He said he had been well acquainted with the country districts of England, he had also travelled extensively in Europe, yet he had never found such a _peaceable, orderly, and law-abiding people as those of Antigua_.
An acquaintance of nine weeks with the colored population of St. John"s, meeting them by the wayside, in their shops, in their parlors, and elsewhere, enables us to p.r.o.nounce them a people of general intelligence, refinement of manners, personal accomplishments, and true politeness. As to their style of dress and mode of living, were we disposed to make any criticism, we should say that they were extravagant. In refined and elevated conversation, they would certainly bear a comparison with the white families of the island.
VISIT TO THIBOU JARVIS"S ESTATE.
After the Christmas holidays were over, we resumed our visits to the country. Being provided with a letter to the manager of Thibou Jarvis"s estate, Mr. James Howell, we embraced the earliest opportunity to call on him. Mr. H. has been in Antigua for thirty-six years, and has been a practical planter during the whole of that time. He has the management of two estates, on which there are more than five hundred people. The princ.i.p.al items of Mr. Howell"s testimony will be found in another place. In this connection we shall record only miscellaneous statements of a local nature.
1. The severity of the drought. He had been in Antigua since the year 1800, and he had never known so long a continuance of dry weather, although the island is subject to severe droughts. He stated that a field of yams, which in ordinary seasons yielded ten cart-loads to the acre, would not produce this year more than _three_. The failure in the crops was not in the least degree chargeable upon the laborers, for in the first place, the cane plants for the present crop were put in earlier and in greater quant.i.ties than usual, and _until_ the drought commenced, the fields promised a large return.
2. _The religious condition_ of the negroes, during slavery, was extremely low. It seemed almost impossible to teach them any higher _religion_ than _obedience to their masters_. Their highest notion of G.o.d was that he was a _little above_ their owner. He mentioned, by way of ill.u.s.tration, that the slaves of a certain large proprietor used to have this saying, "Ma.s.sa only want he little finger to touch G.o.d!" that is, _their master was lower than G.o.d only by the length of his little finger_. But now the religious and moral condition of the people was fast improving.
3. A great change in the use of _rum_ had been effected on the estates under his management since emanc.i.p.ation. He formerly, in accordance with the prevalent custom, gave his people a weekly allowance of rum, and this was regarded as essential to their health and effectiveness. But he has lately discontinued this altogether, and his people had not suffered any inconvenience from it. He gave them in lieu of the rum, an allowance of mola.s.ses, with which they appeared to be entirely satisfied. When Mr.
H. informed the people of his intention to discontinue the spirits, he told them that he should _set them the example_ of total abstinence, by abandoning wine and malt liquor also, which he accordingly did.
4. There had been much less _pretended sickness_ among the negroes since freedom. They had now a strong aversion to going to the sick house[A], so much so that on many estates it had been put to some other use.
[Footnote A: The _estate hospital_, in which, during slavery, all sick persons were placed for medical attendance and nursing. There was one on every estate.]
We were taken through the negro village, and shown the interior of several houses. One of the finest looking huts was decorated with pictures, printed cards, and booksellers" advertis.e.m.e.nts in large letters. Amongst many ornaments of this kind, was an advertis.e.m.e.nt not unfamiliar to our eyes--"THE GIRL"S OWN BOOK. BY MRS. CHILD."
We generally found the women at home. Some of them had been informed of our intention to visit them, and took pains to have every thing in the best order for our reception. The negro village on this estate contains one hundred houses, each of which is occupied by a separate family. Mr.
H. next conducted us to a neighboring field, where the _great gang_[B]
were at work. There were about fifty persons in the gang--the majority females--under two inspectors or superintendents, men who take the place of the _quondam drivers_, though their province is totally different.
They merely direct the laborers in their work, employing with the loiterers the stimulus of persuasion, or at farthest, no more than the violence of the tongue.
[Footnote B: The people on most estates are divided into three gangs; first, the great gang, composed of the princ.i.p.al effective men and women; second, the weeding gang, consisting of younger and weekly persons; and third, the gra.s.s gang, which embraces all the children able to work.]
Mr. H. requested them to stop their work, and told them who we were, and as we bowed, the men took off their hats and the women made a low courtesy. Mr. Howell then informed them that we had come from America, where there were a great many slaves: that we had visited Antigua to see how freedom was working, and whether the people who were made free on the first of August were doing well--and added, that he "hoped these gentlemen might be able to carry back such a report as would induce the masters in America to set their slaves free." They unanimously replied, "Yes, ma.s.sa, we hope dem will gib um free." We spoke a few words: told them of the condition of the slaves in America, urged them to pray for them that they might be patient under their sufferings, and that they might soon be made free. They repeatedly promised to pray for the poor slaves in America. We then received their hearty "Good bye, ma.s.sa," and returned to the house, while they resumed their work.
We took leave of Mr. Howell, grateful for his kind offices in furtherance of the objects of our mission.
We had not been long in Antigua before we perceived the distress of the poor from the scarcity of water. As there are but few springs in the island, the sole reliance is upon rain water. Wealthy families have cisterns or tanks in their yards, to receive the rain from the roofs.
There are also a few public cisterns in St. John"s. These ordinarily supply the whole population. During the present season many of these cisterns have been dry, and the supply of water has been entirely inadequate to the wants of the people. There are several large open ponds in the vicinity of St. John"s, which are commonly used to water "stock." There are one or more on every estate, for the same purpose.
The poor people were obliged to use the water from these ponds both for drinking and cooking while we were in Antigua. In taking our morning walks, we uniformly met the negroes either going to, or returning from the ponds, with their large pails balanced on their heads, happy apparently in being able to get even such foul water.
Attended the anniversary of the "Friendly Society," connected with the church in St. John"s. Many of the most respectable citizens, including the Governor, were present. After the services in the church, the society moved in procession to the Rectory school-room. We counted one hundred males and two hundred and sixty females in the procession.
Having been kindly invited by the Rector to attend at the school-room, we followed the procession. We found the house crowded with women, many others, besides those in the procession, having convened. The men were seated without under a canva.s.s, extended along one side of the house.
The whole number present was supposed to be nine hundred. Short addresses were made by the Rector, the Archdeacon, and the Governor.
The Seventh Annual Report of the Society, drawn up by the secretary, a colored man, was read. It was creditable to the author. The Rector in his address affectionally warned the society, especially the female members, against extravagance in dress.
The Archdeacon exhorted them to domestic and conjugal faithfulness. He alluded to the prevalence of inconstancy during past years, and to the great improvement in this particular lately; and concluded by wishing them all "a happy new-year and _many_ of them, and a blessed immortality in the end." For this kind wish they returned a loud and general "thankee, ma.s.sa."
The Governor then said, that he rose merely to remark, that this society might aid in the emanc.i.p.ation of millions of slaves, now in bondage in other countries. A people who are capable of forming such societies as this among themselves, deserve to be free, and ought no longer to be held in bondage. You, said he, are showing to the world what the negro race are capable of doing. The Governor"s remarks were received with applause. After the addresses the audience were served with refreshments, previous to which the Rector read the following lines, which were sung to the tune of Old Hundred, the whole congregation standing.
"Lord at our table now appear And bless us here, as every where; Let manna to our souls be given, The bread of life sent down from heaven."
The simple refreshment was then handed round. It consisted merely of buns and lemonade. The Governor and the Rector, each drank to the health and happiness of the members. The loud response came up from all within and all around the house--"thankee--thankee--thankee--ma.s.sa--thankee _good_ ma.s.sa." A scene of animation ensued. The whole concourse of black, colored and white, from the humblest to the highest, from the unlettered apprentice to the Archdeacon and the Governor of the island, joined in a common festivity.
After the repast was concluded, thanks were returned in the following verse, also sung to Old Hundred.
"We thank thee, Lord, for this our food, But bless thee more for Jesus" blood; Let manna to our souls be given, The bread of life sent down from heaven."
The benediction was p.r.o.nounced, and the a.s.sembly retired.
There was an aged negro man present, who was noticed with marked attention by the Archdeacon, the Rector and other clergymen. He is sometimes called the African Bishop. He was evidently used to familiarity with the clergy, and laid his hand on their shoulders as he spoke to them. The old patriarch was highly delighted with the scene. He said, when he was young he "never saw nothing, but sin and Satan. _Now I just begin to live_."
On the same occasion the Governor remarked to us that the first thing to be done in our country, toward the removal of slavery, was to discard the absurd notion that _color_ made any difference, intellectually or morally, among men. "All distinctions," said he, "founded in color, must be abolished everywhere. We should learn to talk of men not as _colored_ men, but as MEN _as fellow citizens and fellow subjects_." His Excellency certainly showed on this occasion a disposition to put in practice his doctrine. He spoke affectionately to the children, and conversed freely with the adults.
VISIT TO GREEN CASTLE.
According to a previous engagement, a member of the a.s.sembly called and took us in his carriage to Green Castle estate.
Green Castle lies about three miles south-east from St. John"s, and contains 940 acres. The mansion stands on a rocky cliff; overlooking the estate, and commanding a wide view of the island. In one direction spreads a valley, interspersed with fields of sugar-cane and provisions.
In another stretches a range of hills, with their sides clad in culture, and their tops covered with clouds. At the base of the rock are the sugar Houses. On a neighboring upland lies the negro village, in the rear of which are the provision grounds. Samuel Bernard, Esq., the manager, received us kindly. He said, he had been on the island forty-four years, most of the time engaged in the management of estates.
He is now the manager of two estates, and the attorney for six, and has lately purchased an estate himself. Mr. B. is now an aged man, grown old in the practice of slave holding. He has survived the wreck of slavery, and now stripped of a tyrant"s power, he still lives among the people, who were lately his slaves, and manages an estate which was once his empire. The testimony of such a man is invaluable. Hear him.
1. Mr. B. said, that the negroes throughout the island were very peaceable when they received their freedom.
2. He said he had found no difficulty in getting his people to work after they had received their freedom. Some estates had suffered for a short time; there was a pretty general fluctuation for a month or two, the people leaving one estate and going to another. But this, said Mr.
B., was chargeable to the _folly_ of the planters, who _overbid_ each other in order to secure the best hands and enough of them. The negroes had a _strong attachment to their homes_, and they would rarely abandon them unless harshly treated.
3. He thought that the a.s.sembly acted very wisely in rejecting the apprenticeship. He considered it absurd. It took the chains partly from off the slave, and fastened them on the master, _and enslaved them both_. It withdrew from the latter the power of compelling labor, and it supplied to the former no incentive to industry.
He was opposed to the measures which many had adopted for further securing the benefits of emanc.i.p.ation.--He referred particularly to the system of education which now prevailed. He thought that the education of the emanc.i.p.ated negroes should combine industry with study even in childhood, so as not to disqualify the taught for cultivating the ground. It will be readily seen that this prejudice against education, evidently the remains of his attachment to slavery, gives additional weight to his testimony.
The Mansion on the Rock (which from its elevated and almost inaccessible position, and from the rich shrubbery in perpetual foliage surrounding it, very fitly takes the name of Green Castle) is memorable as the scene of the murder of the present proprietor"s grandfather. He refused to give his slaves holiday on a particular occasion. They came several times in a body and asked for the holiday, but he obstinately refused to grant it. They rushed into his bedroom, fell upon him with their hoes, and killed him.
On our return to St. John"s, we received a polite note from a colored lady, inviting us to attend the anniversary of the "Juvenile a.s.sociation," at eleven o"clock. We found about forty children a.s.sembled, the greater part of them colored girls, but some were white.
The ages of these juvenile philanthropists varied from four to fourteen.
After singing and prayer, the object of the a.s.sociation was stated, which was to raise money by sewing, soliciting contributions, and otherwise, for charitable purposes.
From the annual report it appeared that this was the _twenty-first anniversary_ of the society. The treasurer reported nearly 60 currency (or about $150) received and disbursed during the year. More than one hundred dollars had been given towards the erection of the new Wesleyan chapel in St. John"s. Several resolutions were presented by little misses, expressive of grat.i.tude to G.o.d for continued blessings, which were adopted unanimously--every child holding up its right hand in token of a.s.sent.
After the resolutions and other business were despatched, the children listened to several addresses from the gentlemen present. The last speaker was a member of the a.s.sembly. He said that his presence there was quite accidental; but that he had been amply repaid for coming by witnessing the goodly work to which this juvenile society was engaged.
As there was a male branch a.s.sociation about to be organized, he begged the privilege of enrolling his name as an honorary member, and promised to be a constant contributor to its funds. He concluded by saying, that though he had not before enjoyed the happiness of attending their anniversaries, he should never again fail to be present (with the permission of their worthy patroness) at the future meetings of this most interesting society. We give the substance of this address, as one of the signs of the times. The speaker was a wealthy merchant of St. John"s.