An aged infirm woman said to us, among other things, "Since de _free_ come de ma.s.sa give me no--no, nothing to eat--gets all from my cousins." We next conversed with two men, who were masons on an estate.
Being asked how they liked liberty, they replied, "O, it very comfortable, Sir--very comfortable indeed." They said, "that on the day when freedom came, they were as happy, as though they had just been going to heaven." They said, now they had got free, they never would be slaves again. They were asked if they would not be willing to sell themselves to a man who would treat them well. They replied immediately that they would be very willing to _serve_ such a man, but they would not _sell themselves_ to the best person in the world! What fine logicians a slave"s experience had made these men! Without any effort they struck out a distinction, which has puzzled learned men in church and state, the difference between _serving_ a man and _being his property_.
Being asked how they conducted themselves on the 1st of August they said they had no frolicking, but they all went to church to "_tank G.o.d for make a we free_." They said, they were very desirous to have their children learn all they could while they were young. We asked them if they did not fear that their children would become lazy if they went to school all the time. One said, shrewdly, "Eh! nebber mind--dey _come to_ by"m by--_belly "blige "em_ to work."
In the evening Mr. M. held a religious meeting in the chapel; the weekly meeting for exhortation. He stated to the people the object of our visit, and requested one of us to say a few words. Accordingly, a short time was occupied in stating the number of slaves in America, and in explaining their condition, physical, moral, and spiritual; and the congregation were urged to pray for the deliverance of the millions of our bondmen. They manifested much sympathy, and promised repeatedly to pray that they might be "free like we." At the close of the meeting they pressed around us to say "howdy, ma.s.sa;" and when we left the chapel, they showered a thousand blessings upon us. Several of them, men and women, gathered about Mr. M."s door after we went in, and wished to talk with us. The men were mechanics, foremen, and watchmen; the women were nurses. During our interview, which lasted nearly an hour, these persons remained standing.
When we asked them how they liked freedom, and whether it was better than slavery, they answered with a significant _umph_ and a shrug of the shoulders, as though they would say, "Why you ask dat question, ma.s.sa?"
They said, "all the people went to chapel on the first of August, to tank G.o.d for make such poor undeserving sinners as we free; we no nebber expect to hab it. But it please de Lord to gib we free, and we tank him good Lord for it."
We asked them if they thought the wages they got (a shilling per day, or about eleven cents,) was enough for them. They said it seemed to be very small, and it was as much as they could do to get along with it; but they could not get any more, and they had to be "satify and conten."
As it grew late and the good people had far to walk, we shook hands with them, and bade them good bye, telling them we hoped to meet them again in a world where all would be free. The next morning Mr. M. accompanied us to the residence of the Rev. Mr. Jones, the rector of St. Phillip"s.
Mr. J. informed us that the planters in that part of the island were gratified with the working of the new system. He alluded to the prejudices of some against having the children educated, lest it should foster indolence. But, said Mr. J., the planters have always been opposed to improvements, until they were effected, and their good results began to be manifest. They first insisted that the abolition of the slave-trade would ruin the colonies--next the _abolition of slavery_ was to be the certain destruction of the islands--and now the education of children is deprecated as fraught with disastrous consequences.
FREY"S ESTATE--MR. HATLEY.
Mr. Morrish accompanied us to a neighboring estate called Frey"s, which lies on the road from Newfield to English Harbor. Mr. Hatley, the manager, showed an enthusiastic admiration of the new system. Most of his testimony will be found in Chapter III. He said, that owing to the dry weather he should not make one third of his average crop. Yet his people had acted their part well. He had been encouraged by their improved industry and efficiency, to bring into cultivation lands that had never before been tilled.
It was delightful to witness the change which had been wrought in this planter by the abolition of slavery. Although accustomed for years to command a hundred human beings with absolute authority, he could rejoice in the fact that his power was wrested from him, and when asked to specify the advantages of freedom over slavery, he named emphatically and above all others _the abolition of flogging_. Formerly, he said, it was "_whip--whip--whip--incessantly_, but now we are relieved from this disagreeable task."
THE AMERICAN CONSUL
We called on the American Consul, Mr. Higginbotham, at his country residence, about four miles from St. John"s. Shortly after we reached his elevated and picturesque seat, we were joined by Mr. Cranstoun, a planter, who had been invited to dine with us. Mr. C. is a _colored gentleman_. The Consul received him in such a manner as plainly showed that they were on terms of intimacy. Mr. C. is a gentleman of intelligence and respectability, and occupies a station of trust and honor in the island. On taking leave of us, he politely requested our company at breakfast on a following morning, saying, he would send his gig for us.
At the urgent request of Mr. Bourne, of Miller"s, we consented to address the people of his estate, on Sabbath evening. He sent in his gig for us in the afternoon, and we drove out.
At the appointed hour we went to the place of meeting. The chapel was crowded with attentive listeners. Whenever allusions were made to the grout blessings which G.o.d had conferred upon them in delivering them from bondage, the audience heartily responded in their rough but earnest way to the sentiments expressed. At the conclusion of the meeting, they gradually withdrew, bowing or courtesying as they pa.s.sed us, and dropping upon our ear their gentle "good bye, ma.s.sa." During slavery every estate had its _dungeon_ for refractory slaves. Just as we were leaving Miller"s, me asked Mr. B. what had become of these dungeons. He instantly replied, "I"ll show you one," In a few moments we stood at the door of the old prison, a small stone building, strongly built, with two cells. It was a dismal looking den, surrounded by stables, pig-styes, and cattlepens. The door was off its hinges, and the entrance partly filled up with mason work. The sheep and goats went in and out at pleasure.
We breakfasted one morning at the Villa estate, which lies within half a mile of St. John"s. The manager was less sanguine in his views of emanc.i.p.ation than the planters generally. We were disposed to think that, were it not for the force of public sentiment, he might declare himself against it. His feelings are easily accounted for. The estate is situated so near the town; that his people are a.s.sailed by a variety of temptations to leave their work; from which those on other estates are exempt. The manager admitted that the danger of insurrection was removed--crime was lessened--and the moral condition of society was rapidly improving.
A few days after, we went by invitation to a bazaar, or fair, which was held in the court-house in St. John"s. The avails were to be appropriated to the building of a new Wesleyan chapel in the town. The council chamber and the a.s.sembly"s call were given for the purpose. The former s.p.a.cious room was crowded with people of every cla.s.s and complexion. The fair was got up by the _colored_ members of the Wesleyan church; nevertheless, some of the first ladies and gentlemen in town attended it, and mingled promiscuously in the throng. Wealthy proprietors, lawyers legislators, military officers in their uniform, merchants, etc. swelled the crowd. We recognised a number of ladies whom we had previously met at a fashionable dinner in St. John"s. Colored ladies presided at the tables, and before them was spread a profusion of rich fancy articles. Among a small number of books exhibited for sale were several copies of a work ent.i.tled "COMMEMORATIVE WREATH," being a collection of poetical pieces relating to the abolition of slavery in the West Indies.
VISIT TO MR. CRANSTOUN"S.
On the following morning Mr. C."s gig came for us, and we drove out to his residence. We were met at the door by the American Consul, who breakfasted with us. When he had taken leave, Mr. C. proposed that we should go over his grounds. To reach the estate, which lies in a beautiful valley far below Mr. C."s mountainous residence, we were obliged to go on foot by a narrow path that wound along the sides of the precipitous hills. This estate is the property of Mr. Athill, a colored gentleman now residing in England. Mr. A. is post-master general of Antigua, one of the first merchants in St. John"s, and was a member of the a.s.sembly until the close of 1836, when, on account of his continued absence, he resigned his seat. A high-born white man, the Attorney General, now occupies the same chair which this colored member vacated.
Mr. C. was formerly attorney for several estates, is now agent for a number of them, and also a magistrate.
He remarked, that since emanc.i.p.ation the nocturnal disorders and quarrels in the negro villages, which were incessant during slavery, had nearly ceased. The people were ready and willing to work. He had frequently given his gang jobs, instead of paying them by the day. This had proved a gear stimulant to industry, and the work of the estate was performed so much quicker by this plan that it was less expensive than daily wages. When they had jobs given them, they would sometimes go to work by three o"clock in the morning, and work by moonlight. When the moon was not shining, he had known them to kindle fires among the trash or dry cane leaves to work by. They would then continue working all day until four o clock, stopping only for breakfast, and dispensing with the usual intermission from twelve to two.
We requested him to state briefly what were in his estimation the advantages of the free system over slavery. He replied thus: 1st. The diminished expense of free labor. 2d. _The absence of coercion_. 3d. The greater facility in managing an estate. Managers had not half the perplexity and trouble in watching, driving, &c. They could leave the affairs of the estate in the hands of the people with safety. 4th. _The freedom from danger_. They had now put away all fears of insurrections, robbery, and incendiarism.
There are two reflections which the perusal of these items will probably suggest to most minds: 1st. The coincidence in the replies of different planters to the question--What are the advantages of freedom over slavery? These replies are almost identically the same in every case, though given by men who reside in different parts of the island, and have little communication with each other. 2d. They all speak exclusively of the advantages to the _master_, and say nothing of the benefit accruing to the emanc.i.p.ated. We are at some loss to decide whether this arose from indifference to the interests of the emanc.i.p.ated, or from a conviction that the blessings of freedom to them were self-evident and needed no specification.
While we were in the boiling-house we witnessed a scene which ill.u.s.trated one of the benefits of freedom to the slave; it came quite opportunely, and supplied the deficiency in the manager"s enumeration of advantages. The head boiler was performing the work of "striking off;"
i.e. of removing the liquor, after it had been sufficiently boiled, from the copper to the coolers. The liquor had been taken out of the boiler by the skipper, and thence was being conducted to the coolers by a long open spout. By some means the spout became choaked, and the liquor began to run over. Mr. C. ordered the man to let down the valve, but he became confused, and instead of letting go the string which lifted the valve, he pulled on it the more. The consequence was that the liquor poured over the sides of the spout in a torrent. The manager screamed at the top of his voice--"_let down the valve, let it down_!" But the poor man, more and more frightened, hoisted it still higher,--and the precious liquid--pure sugar--spread in a thick sheet over the earthen floor. The manager at last sprang forward, thrust aside the man, and stopped the mischief, but not until many gallons of sugar were lost. Such an accident as this, occurring during slavery, would have cost the negro a severe flogging. As it was, however, in the present case, although Mr.
C. "looked daggers," and exclaimed by the workings of his countenance, "a kingdom for a _cat_,"[A] yet the severest thing which he could say was, "You bungling fellow--if you can"t manage better than this, I shall put some other person in your place--that"s all." "_That_"s ALL" indeed, but it would not have been all, three years ago. The negro replied to his chidings in a humble way, saying "I couldn"t help it, sir, I couldn"t help it" Mr. C. finally turned to us, and said in a calmer tone, "The poor fellow got confused, and was frightened half to death."
[Footnote A: A species of whip, well know in the West Indies.]
VISIT TO GRACE BAY.
We made a visit to the Moravian settlement at Grace Bay, which is on the opposite side of the island. We called, in pa.s.sing, at Cedar Hall, a Moravian establishment four miles from town. Mr. Newby, one of the missionaries stationed at this place, is the oldest preacher of the Gospel in the island. He has been in Antigua for twenty-seven years. He is quite of the _old way of thinking_ on all subjects, especially the divine right of kings, and the scriptural sanction of slavery.
Nevertheless, he was persuaded that emanc.i.p.ation had been a great blessing to the island and to all parties concerned. When he first came to Antigua in 1809, he was not suffered to teach the slaves. After some time he ventured to keep an evening school _in a secret way_. Now there is a day school of one hundred and twenty children connected with the station. It has been formed since emanc.i.p.ation.
From Cedar Hail we proceeded to Grace Bay. On the way we met some negro men at work on the road, and stopped our chaise to chat with them. They told us that they lived on Harvey"s estate, which they pointed out to us. Before emanc.i.p.ation that estate had four hundred slaves on it, but a great number had since left because of ill usage during slavery. They would not live on the estate, because the same manager remained, and they could not trust him.
They told us they were Moravians, and that on the first of August they all went to the Moravian chapel at Grace Bay, "to tank and praise de good Savior for make a we free." We asked them if they still liked liberty; they said, "Yes, ma.s.sa, we all quite _proud_ to be free." The negroes use the word _proud_ to express a strong feeling of delight. One man said, "One morning as I was walking along the road all alone, I prayed that the Savior would make me free, for then I could be so happy.
I don"t know what made me pray so, for I wasn"t looking for de free; but please ma.s.sa, _in one month de free come_."
They declared that they worked a great deal better since emanc.i.p.ation, because they were _paid for it_. To be sure, said they, we get very little wages, but it is better than none. They repeated it again and again, that men could not be made to work well by _flogging_ them, "_it was no use to try it_."
We asked one of the men, whether he would not be willing to be a slave again provided he was _sure_ of having a kind master. "Heigh! me ma.s.sa,"
said he, "me neber slave no more. A good ma.s.sa a very good ting, _but freedom till better_." They said that it was a great blessing to them to have their children go to school. After getting them to show us the way to Grace Bay, we bade them good bye.
We were welcomed at Grace Bay by the missionary, and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Mohne.[B] The place where these missionaries reside is a beautiful spot. Their dwelling-house and the chapel are situated on a high promontory, almost surrounded by the sea. A range of tall hills in the rear cuts off the view of the island, giving to the missionary station an air of loneliness and seclusion truly impressive. In this sequestered spot, the found Mr. and Mrs. M. living alone. They informed us that they rarely have white visiters, but their house is the constant resort of the negroes, who gather there after the toil of the day to "speak" about their souls. Mr. and Mrs. M. are wholly engrossed in their labors of love. They find their happiness in leading their numerous flock "by the still waters and the green pastures" of salvation. Occupied in this delightful work, they covet not other employments, nor other company, and desire no other earthly abode than their own little hill-embosomed, sea-girt missionary home.
[Footnote B: p.r.o.nounced Maynuh.]
There are a thousand people belonging to the church at this station, each of whom, the missionaries see once every month. A day school has been lately established, and one hundred children are already in attendance. After dinner we walked out accompanied by the missionaries to enjoy the beautiful sunset. It is one of the few _harmless_ luxuries of a West India climate, to go forth after the heat of the day is spent and the sun is sinking in the sea, and enjoy the refreshing coolness of the air. The ocean stretched before us, motionless after the turmoil of the day, like a child which has rocked itself asleep, yet indicating by its mighty breathings as it heaved along the beach, that it only slumbered. As the sun went down, the full moon arose, only less luminous, and gradually the stars began to light up their beaming fires.
The work of the day now being over, the weary laborers were seen coming from different directions to have a "speak" with the missionaries. Mr.
M. stated a fact ill.u.s.trative of the influence of the missionaries over the negroes. Some time ago, the laborers on a certain estate became dissatisfied with the wages they were receiving, and refused to work unless they were increased. The manager tried in vain to reconcile his people to the grievance of which they complained, and then sent to Mr.
M., requesting him to visit the estate, and use his influence to persuade the negroes, most of whom belonged to his church, to work at the usual terms. Mr. M. sent word to the manager that it was not his province, as minister, to interfere with the affairs of any estate; but he would talk with the people about it individually, when they came to "speak." Accordingly he spoke to each one, as he came, in a kind manner, advising him to return to his work, and live as formerly. In a short time peace and confidence were restored, and the whole gang to a man were in the field.
Mr. and Mrs. M. stated that notwithstanding the very low rate of wages, which was scarcely sufficient to support life, they had never seen a single individual who desired to return to the condition of a slave.
Even the old and infirm, who were sometimes really in a suffering state from neglect of the planters and from inability of their relatives adequately to provide for them, expressed the liveliest grat.i.tude for the great blessing which the Savior had given them. They would often say to Mrs. M. "Why, Missus, old sinner just sinkin in de grave, but G.o.d let me old eyes see dis blessed sun."
The missionaries affirmed that the negroes were an affectionate people--remarkably so. Any kindness shown them by a white person, was treasured up and never forgotten. On the other hand, the slightest neglect or contempt from a white person, was keenly felt. They are very fond of saying "_howdy_" to white people; but if the salutation is not returned, or noticed kindly, they are not likely to repeat it to the same individual. To shake hands with a white person is a gratification which they highly prize. Mrs. M. pleasantly remarked, that after service on Sabbath, she was usually wearied out with saying _howdy_, and _shaking hands_.
During the evening we had some conversation with two men who came to "speak." They spoke about the blessings of liberty, and their grat.i.tude to G.o.d for making them free. They spoke also, with deep feeling, of the still greater importance of being free from _sin_. That, they said, was better. _Heaven was the first best, and freedom was the next best_.
They gave us some account, in the course of the evening, of an aged saint called Grandfather Jacob, who lived on a neighboring estate. He had been a _helper_[A] in the Moravian church, until he became too infirm to discharge the duties connected with that station. Being for the same reason discharged from labor on the estate, he now occupied himself in giving religious instruction to the other superannuated people on the estate.
[Footnote A: An office somewhat similar to that of deacon]
Mrs. M. said it would const.i.tute an era in the life of the old man, if he could have an interview with two strangers from a distant land; accordingly, she sent a servant to ask him to come to the mission-house early the next morning. The old man was prompt to obey the call. He left home, as he said, "before the gun fire"--about five o"clock--and came nearly three miles on foot. He was of a slender form, and had been tall, but age and slavery had bowed him down. He shook us by the hand very warmly, exclaiming, "G.o.d bless you, G.o.d bless you--me bery glad to see you." He immediately commenced giving us an account of his conversion.
Said he, putting his hand on his breast, "You see old Jacob? de old _sinner_ use to go on _drinkin", swearin", dancin", fightin"!_ No G.o.d-- no Savior--no soul! _When old England and de Merica fall out de first time_, old Jacob was a man--a wicked sinner!--drink rum, fight--love to fight! Carry coffin to de grabe on me head; put dead body under ground--dance over it--den fight and knock man down--go "way, drink rum, den take de fiddle. And so me went on, just so, till me get sick and going to die--thought when me die, dat be de end of me;--_den de Savior come to me!_ Jacob love de Savior, and been followin" de good Savior ever since." He continued his story, describing the opposition he had to contend with, and the sacrifices he made to go to church. After working on the estate till six o"clock at night, he and several others would each take a large stone on his head and start for St. John"s; nine miles over the hills. They carried the stones to aid is building the Moravian chapel at Spring Garden, St. John"s. After he had finished this account, he read to us, in a highly animated style, some of the hymns which he taught to the old people, and then sung one of them. These exercises caused the old man"s heart to burn within him, and again he ran over his past life, his early wickedness, and the grace that s.n.a.t.c.hed him from ruin, while the mingled tides of grat.i.tude burst forth from heart, and eyes, and tongue.
When we turned his attention to the temporal freedom he had received, he instantly caught the word FREE, and exclaimed vehemently, "O yes, me Ma.s.sa--dat is anoder kind blessin from de Savior! Him make we all _free_. Can never praise him too much for dat." We inquired whether he was now provided for by the manager. He said he was not--never received any thing from him--his _children_ supported him. We then asked him whether it was not better to be a slave if he could get food and clothing, than to be free and not have enough. He darted his quick eye at us and said "rader be free _still_." He had been severely flogged twice since his conversion, for leaving his post as watchman to bury the dead. The minister was sick, and he was applied to, in his capacity of _helper_, to perform funeral rites, and he left his watch to do it. He said, his heavenly Master called him, and he _would_ go though he expected a flogging. He must serve his Savior whatever come. "Can"t put we in dungeon _now_," said Grandfather Jacob with a triumphant look.
When told that there were slaves in America, and that they were not yet emanc.i.p.ated, he exclaimed, "Ah, de Savior make we free, and he will make dem free too. He come to Antigo first--he"ll be in Merica soon."
When the time had come for him to leave, he came and pressed our hands, and fervently gave us his patriarchal blessing. Our interview with Grandfather Jacob can never be forgotten. Our hearts, we trust, will long cherish his heavenly savor--well a.s.sured that if allowed a part in the resurrection of the just, we shall behold his tall form, erect in the vigor of immortal youth, amidst the patriarchs of past generations.
After breakfast we took leave of the kind-hearted missionaries, whose singular devotedness and delightful spirit won greatly upon our affections, and bent our way homeward by another route.
MR. SCOTLAND"S ESTATE.