[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 39.--Point d"Anvers Bars.]
NO. 40.--POINT GRECQUE BARS.--These bars are so simply made that they are great favorites with beginners. They are begun at the top of the point, one straight thread being carried to the bottom; then the cross bars are worked after the method seen in the ill.u.s.tration.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 40.--Point Grecque Bars.]
NO. 41.--BARS OF POINT D"ANGLETERRE.--These bars may be worked singly or to fill up a s.p.a.ce, as in the ill.u.s.tration. Work rosettes as in point d"Angleterre; when each rosette is finished twist the thread up the foundation thread to the top, fasten with one st.i.tch, then pa.s.s it under the parallel line running through the center and over into the opposite braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the threads as seen in the ill.u.s.tration.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 41.--Bars of Point d"Angleterre.]
NO. 42.--POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED).--Begin at the right hand and stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid, fastening it with one tight st.i.tch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this line work a succession of tight point de Bruxelles st.i.tches. Then in every third st.i.tch work one point de Venise st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 42.--Point de Venise Bars (Edged).]
NO. 43.--D"ALENcON AND SORRENTO BARS.--At Nos. 35 and 36 (page 16), a description of the method of making Sorrento bars is given, while at No.
19 (page 12), is a description of plain and fancy d"Alencon st.i.tches.
The two methods are combined in the work seen at No. 43 where the process is so clearly ill.u.s.trated that a mere novice in lace-work could not fail to produce it perfectly. The combined st.i.tch is used in filling in s.p.a.ces, etc., etc.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 43.--d"Alencon And Sorrento Bars.]
NO. 44.--PICOT OR DOT ON SORRENTO BAR.--This dot is worked between rows of point de Bruxelles, 3 twisted st.i.tches being worked into the loop left by the twisted thread; this forms a picot resembling satin st.i.tch in appearance.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 44.--Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar.]
NO. 45.--D"ALENcON BARS.--These bars are worked upon point de Bruxelles edging, and are only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being used as ground-work bars. The thread is merely pa.s.sed three times over and under the point de Bruxelles st.i.tches, the length of these bars being regulated by the s.p.a.ce to be filled; when the third bar is completed a tight point de Bruxelles st.i.tch fastens off the bars, and the thread is pa.s.sed through the next point de Bruxelles st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 45.--d"Alencon Bars.]
NO. 46.--PLAIN VENETIAN BARS.--These bars are worked so as to form squares, triangles, etc., in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch upon a straight thread.
The _arrow_ in the ill.u.s.tration points to the direction for working the next st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 46.--Plain Venetian Bars.]
NO. 47.--DOTTED POINT DE VENISE BARS.--These pretty bars are worked as follows: Stretch the thread from right to left; on this work 5 tight st.i.tches of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last st.i.tch to hold it open and loose, pa.s.s the needle under the loose st.i.tch and over the thread, as clearly shown in the ill.u.s.tration, and in this loop work 3 tight point de Bruxelles st.i.tches. Then work 5 more st.i.tches and repeat to end of row.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 47.--Dotted Point de Venise Bars.]
The making of the dots or purls before mentioned as picots, is an important feature in bar work. All three names are employed for the same cla.s.s of st.i.tch.
NO. 48.--THIRD METHOD OF MAKING PICOTS OR DOTS.--This method has been fully described in connection with the making of Raleigh Bars at Nos. 31 and 32 (page 15), and requires no further description at this point. All dots and picots render work much more effective, and may be introduced at will by the worker.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 48.--Third Method of Making Picots or Dots.]
In making modern lace, the various kinds require appropriate braids.
There are three cla.s.ses of these braids--those for Battenburg lace, those for plain Honiton and point, and those for the newest kind of lace, which is called the "Ideal Honiton." Each cla.s.s of braids contains many designs and widths, and a large number of them, together with various cords, b.u.t.tons and rings also used are ill.u.s.trated on following pages.
FANCY BRAIDS, CORDS, RINGS AND b.u.t.tONS.
BRAIDS.
The braids, cords, rings and b.u.t.tons ill.u.s.trated upon the following two pages are all used in modern lace-making. They are all made of pure linen thread, and according to the fancy, the lace including them may be heavy or light. Royal Battenburg lace, as originated, was heavy--in some cases ma.s.sive; but at present many lighter varieties are made, as will be surmised upon an inspection of the braids for its manufacture which are represented on the pages mentioned. As shown by No. 1, these braids are about a third narrower than their actual width, and the picot edges numbered 16 and 17 are plain tatting made for the purpose, as the picot edges woven for lighter laces are not heavy enough for Battenburg lace.
The numbers opposite the specimens are simply for convenience in ordering, if the order is sent the lady mentioned in another part of the book as the Pioneer of Lace-Making in America; but in ordering from other lace-makers or manufacturers of braids, these numbers will be of little use, as every lace-maker or manufacturer has his or her own individual identifications for materials. Almost any of the braids, or those very similar, may be found at large fancy stores, but in buying them at such stores, be careful to get _linen_ braids, as cotton braids do not make pretty lace, neither do they wear or launder well. In ordering these braids from other lace-makers or from fancy stores, it will be necessary to forward the ill.u.s.tration of the kind wanted, as the braids cannot be described with sufficient accuracy to obtain the desired varieties. Some are sold by the yard, some by the dozen yards and others by the piece, according to the position to be occupied in the work.
The point, Honiton and Princess braids are represented full size, and are much daintier in texture than the Battenburg braids. Of this cla.s.s of braids (see No. 2) are made the plain Honiton and point laces, and the braids for these two laces combined produce the Princess lace--a creation whose beauty fully ent.i.tles it to its royal name.
The braids seen at No. 3, page 21, are those which are used in making the new "Ideal Honiton" lace represented in another portion of the book.
As ill.u.s.trated, these braids are three-quarters of their proper widths, the top braid, No. 38, being just one inch wide in the fabric itself.
The "Ideal Honiton" is one of the prettiest laces made, and is very appropriate for tidies, doilies, squares and scarfs. It is daintily secured to the finest of lawn in charming designs, and then the lawn is cut out from beneath it. (See doily, page 33).
The cords seen at No. 4 are used in making Battenburg laces, and greatly increase the beauty of the work in addition to forming a distinctive species of lace. After the ordinary Battenburg is worked with quite thick braid, the cord, in any size desired, is used to follow one edge of the design, as will be seen from ill.u.s.trations upon other following pages.
RINGS AND b.u.t.tONS.
The rings and b.u.t.tons ill.u.s.trated, are made throughout of linen thread in layers of b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tches, and are sold by the dozen or gross.
b.u.t.tons arranged as grapes (see No. 50, page 21), add greatly to the sumptuous effect of a heavy lace, and may be purchased already arranged as ill.u.s.trated, or they may be arranged by the purchaser of a quant.i.ty of them. The latter method is a good plan if s.p.a.ces are to be filled with cl.u.s.ters which must be of a certain shape.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 1.--Braids used in Making Battenburg Lace.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 2.--Braids used in Making Honiton, Point and Princess Lace.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 3.--Braids used in Making "Ideal Honiton" Lace.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 4.--Cords, Rings and b.u.t.tons used in Making Battenburg Lace.]
DESIGNS, LACE ARTICLES, EDGINGS, INSERTIONS, ETC., IN MODERN LACE.
Of necessity, most of the designs and specimens given on this and the following pages are smaller than the articles they represent, but they afford a correct idea of the method of making and the beauty of Modern Lace, and also its adaptability to dainty accessories of the toilet and the household. As before mentioned any design desired can be obtained from any lace-making establishment in any size, width or shape, according to the requirements of the article or lace to be made, and individual taste. Ingenious students will no doubt be able to adapt for themselves the designs offered, but it is not advisable for those who have no talent in the matter of drawing or designing to undertake an elaborate adaptation, though they may easily accomplish a simple one.
Besides, a professional designer will furnish the design for a moderate sum, perfectly outlined upon tracing cloth, with ink, and with the proper filling-in st.i.tches perfectly delineated; and if the student wishes it, will select the thread and braid appropriate for the design; or the student may select the braid she fancies, and the designer will then select the thread suitable for the braid.
No. 1.
DESIGN FOR A LACE HANDKERCHIEF.
This design is suitable for point lace braid, but is of course very much reduced in size, in order to show the effect and arrangement of a design ready for working, as sent out from the lace-maker"s. By a reference to the various st.i.tches ill.u.s.trated on preceding pages, the st.i.tches shown in one corner of the design may be readily identified. The following engraving shows how braid is applied to a design before the st.i.tches are begun.
[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 1.--Design for a Lace Handkerchief.]
No. 2.