_Mode_.--Put the vegetables in the b.u.t.ter to stew gently for an hour with a teacupful of stock; then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix with the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve. Take the soup off the fire, put the eggs, &c. to it, and keep stirring it well.
Bring it to a boil, but do not leave off stirring, or the eggs will curdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar.
_Time_.--24 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from May to August.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
CHERVIL.--Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its leaves are tender, and are used in salads. In antiquity it made a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine, and gravy. It is a native of various parts of Europe; and the species cultivated in the gardens of Paris, has beautifully frizzled leaves.
II.
130. INGREDIENTS.--5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sized potatoes, 3 oz. b.u.t.ter, 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with the b.u.t.ter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then fill up the stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are done, which will be in about an hour. Rub all through a tammy, and add the cream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream is put in.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. __Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to May.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This soup can be made with water instead of stock.
SOUP A LA JULIENNE.
[Ill.u.s.tration: STRIPS OF VEGETABLE.]
131. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of carrots, 1/2 pint of turnips, 1/4 pint of onions, 2 or 3 leeks, 1/2 head of celery, 1 lettuce, a little sorrel and chervil, if liked, 2 oz. of b.u.t.ter, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Cut the vegetables into strips of about 1-1/4 inch long, and be particular they are all the same size, or some will be hard whilst the others will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel, and chervil into larger pieces; fry the carrots in the b.u.t.ter, and pour the stock boiling to them. When this is done, add all the other vegetables, and herbs, and stew gently for at least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the soup over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a shilling, and serve.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c. can be added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying them in b.u.t.ter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards simmered in the stock.
SORREL.--This is one of the _spinaceous_ plants, which take their name from spinach, which is the chief among them. It is little used in English cookery, but a great deal in French, in which it is employed for soups, sauces, and salads. In English meadows it is usually left to grow wild; but in France, where it is cultivated, its flavour is greatly improved.
KALE BROSE (a Scotch Recipe).
132. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox-head or cow-heel, a teacupful of toasted oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly a teacupful of the fat broth: it should not run into one doughy ma.s.s, but form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
LEEK SOUP.
I.
133. INGREDIENTS.--A sheep"s head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks cut small, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken.
_Mode_.--Prepare the head, either by skinning or cleaning the skin very nicely; split it in two; take out the brains, and put it into boiling water; add the leeks and seasoning, and simmer very gently for 4 hours.
Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much oatmeal as will make the soup tolerably thick; pour it into the soup; continue stirring till the whole is blended and well done, and serve.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
II.
COMMONLY CALLED c.o.c.k-A-LEEKIE.
134. INGREDIENTS.--A capon or large fowl (sometimes an old c.o.c.k, from which the recipe takes its name, is used), which should be trussed as for boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of stock No. 105, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Well wash the leeks (and, if old, scald them in boiling water for a few minutes), taking off the roots and part of the heads, and cut them into lengths of about an inch. Put the fowl into the stock, with, at first, one half of the leeks, and allow it to simmer gently. In half an hour add the remaining leeks, and then it may simmer for 3 or 4 hours longer. It should be carefully skimmed, and can be seasoned to taste. In serving, take out the fowl, and carve it neatly, placing the pieces in a tureen, and pouring over them the soup, which should be very thick of leeks (a _puree_ of leeks the French would call it).
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart; or, with stock No.
106, 1s.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--Without the fowl, the above, which would then be merely called leek soup, is very good, and also economical. c.o.c.k-a-leekie was largely consumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, in 1859.
[Ill.u.s.tration: LEEKS.]
THE LEEK.--As in the case of the cuc.u.mber, this vegetable was bewailed by the Israelites in their journey through the desert.
It is one of the alliaceous tribe, which consists of the onion, garlic, chive, shallot, and leek. These, as articles of food, are perhaps more widely diffused over the face of the earth than any other _genus_ of edible plants. It is the national badge of the Welsh, and tradition ascribes to St. David its introduction to that part of Britain. The origin of the wearing of the leek on St. David"s day, among that people, is thus given in "BEETON"S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION:"--"It probably originated from the custom of _Cymhortha_, or the friendly aid, practised among farmers. In some districts of South Wales, all the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when they attended to plough his land, and the like; and, at such time, it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks with him for making the broth or soup." (_See_ ST. DAVID.) Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of Cressy. The plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland, is sharper than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to that of the onion in broth. It is very wholesome, and, to prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled.
MACARONI SOUP.
135. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of b.u.t.ter the size of a walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105.