_Average cost_, 1s. each.
_Seasonable_ at any time, but more plentiful in summer.
_Note_.--Red mullet may be broiled, and should be folded in oiled paper, the same as in the preceding recipe, and seasoned with pepper and salt.
They may be served without sauce; but if any is required, use melted _b.u.t.ter_, Italian or anchovy sauce. They should never be plain boiled.
[Ill.u.s.tration: THE STRIPED RED MULLET.]
THE STRIPED RED MULLET.--This fish was very highly esteemed by the ancients, especially by the Romans, who gave the most extravagant prices for it. Those of 2 lbs. weight were valued at about 15 each; those of 4 lbs. at 60, and, in the reign of Tiberius, three of them were sold for 209. To witness the changing loveliness of their colour during their dying agonies, was one of the princ.i.p.al reasons that such a high price was paid for one of these fishes. It frequents our Cornish and Suss.e.x coasts, and is in high request, the flesh being firm, white, and well flavoured.
FRIED OYSTERS.
286. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, 2 oz. b.u.t.ter, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, a little chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
_Mode_.--Boil the oysters for 1 minute in their own liquor, and drain them; fry them with the b.u.t.ter, ketchup, lemon-peel, and parsley; lay them on a dish, and garnish with fried potatoes, toasted sippets, and parsley. This is a delicious delicacy, and is a favourite Italian dish.
_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_ for this quant.i.ty, 1s. 9d.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
[Ill.u.s.tration: THE EDIBLE OYSTER.]
THE EDIBLE OYSTER:--This sh.e.l.l-fish is almost universally distributed near the sh.o.r.es of seas in all lat.i.tudes, and they especially abound on the coasts of France and Britain. The coasts most celebrated, in England, for them, are those of Ess.e.x and Suffolk. Here they are dredged up by means of a net with an iron sc.r.a.per at the mouth, that is dragged by a rope from a boat over the beds. As soon as taken from their native beds, they are stored in pits, formed for the purpose, furnished with sluices, through which, at the spring tides, the water is suffered to flow. This water, being stagnant, soon becomes green in warm weather; and, in a few days afterwards, the oysters acquire the same tinge, which increases their value in the market. They do not, however, attain their perfection and become fit for sale till the end of six or eight weeks. Oysters are not considered proper for the table till they are about a year and a half old; so that the brood of one spring are not to be taken for sale, till, at least, the September twelvemonth afterwards.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS.
I.
287. INGREDIENTS.--Oysters, say 1 pint, 1 oz. b.u.t.ter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream; pepper and salt to taste; bread crumbs, oiled b.u.t.ter.
_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard them, and strain the liquor free from grit. Put 1 oz. of batter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the stock, cream, and strained liquor, and give one boil. Put in the oysters and seasoning; let them gradually heat through, but not boil. Have ready the scallop-sh.e.l.ls b.u.t.tered; lay in the oysters, and as much of the liquid as they will hold; cover them over with bread crumbs, over which drop a little oiled b.u.t.ter. Brown them in the oven, or before the fire, and serve quickly, and very hot.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/4 hour.
_Average cost_ for this quant.i.ty, 3s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
II.
Prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe, and put them in a scallop-sh.e.l.l or saucer, and between each layer sprinkle over a few bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; place small pieces of b.u.t.ter over, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven. Put sufficient bread crumbs on the top to make a smooth surface, as the oysters should not be seen.
_Time_.--About 1/4 hour.
_Average cost_, 3s. 2d.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
STEWED OYSTERS.
288. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of oysters, 1 oz. of b.u.t.ter, flour, 1/3 pint of cream; cayenne and salt to taste; 1 blade of pounded mace.
_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard them, and strain the liquor; put the b.u.t.ter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up, add the oyster-liquor and mace, and stir it over a sharp fire with a wooden spoon; when it comes to a boil, add the cream, oysters, and seasoning. Let all simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, but not longer, or the oysters would harden. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with croutons, or toasted sippets of bread. A small piece of lemon-peel boiled with the oyster-liquor, and taken out before the cream is added, will be found an improvement.
_Time_.--Altogether 15 minutes.
_Average cost_ for this quant.i.ty, 3s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
THE OYSTER AND THE SCALLOP.--The oyster is described as a bivalve sh.e.l.l-fish, having the valves generally unequal. The hinge is without teeth, but furnished with a somewhat oval cavity, and mostly with lateral transverse grooves. From a similarity in the structure of the hinge, oysters and scallops hare been cla.s.sified as one tribe; but they differ very essentially both in their external appearance and their habits.
Oysters adhere to rocks, or, as in two or three species, to roots of trees on the sh.o.r.e; while the scallops are always detached, and usually lurk in the sand.
OYSTER PATTIES (an Entree).
289. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen oysters, 2 oz. b.u.t.ter, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, a little lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace; cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut each one into 3 pieces. Put the b.u.t.ter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the strained oyster-liquor with the other ingredients; put in the oysters, and let them heat gradually, but not boil fast. Make the patty-cases as directed for lobster patties, No.
277: fill with the oyster mixture, and replace the covers.
_Time_.--2 minutes for the oysters to simmer in the mixture.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the patty-cases, 1s. 1d.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
THE OYSTER FISHERY.--The oyster fishery in Britain is esteemed of so much importance, that it is regulated by a Court of Admiralty. In the month of May, the fishermen are allowed to take the oysters, in order to separate the sp.a.w.n from the cultch, the latter of which is thrown in again, to preserve the bed for the future. After this month, it is felony to carry away the cultch, and otherwise punishable to take any oyster, between the sh.e.l.ls of which, when closed, a shilling will rattle.
TO KEEP OYSTERS.
290. Put them in a tub, and cover them with salt and water. Let them remain for 12 hours, when they are to be taken out, and allowed to stand for another 12 hours without water. If left without water every alternate 12 hours, they will be much better than if constantly kept in it. Never put the same water twice to them.
OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER.
291. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of oysters, 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, sufficient flour to make the batter; pepper and salt to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg; hot lard.
_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and lay them on a cloth, to drain thoroughly. Break the eggs into a basin, mix the flour with them, add the milk gradually, with nutmeg and seasoning, and put the oysters in the batter. Make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan, put in the oysters, one at a time; when done, take them up with a sharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin. Fried oysters are frequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then a few bread crumbs should be added to the flour.
_Time_.--5 or 6 minutes.
_Average cost_ for this quant.i.ty, 1s. 10d.