_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_ for this quant.i.ty, 1s. 9d.
_Seasonable_ from May to November.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons; according to size.
[Ill.u.s.tration: THE PLAICE.]
THE PLAICE.--This fish is found both in the Baltic and the Mediterranean, and is also abundant on the coast of England. It keeps well, and, like all ground-fish, is very tenacious of life. Its flesh is inferior to that of the sole, and, as it is a low-priced fish, it is generally bought by the poor. The best brought to the London market are called _Dowers plaice_, from their being caught in the Dowers, or flats, between Hastings and Folkstone.
TO BOIL PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.
299. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.--Prawns should be very red, and have no sp.a.w.n under the tail; much depends on their freshness and the way in which they are cooked.
Throw them into boiling water, salted as above, and keep them boiling for about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the same way; but less time must be allowed. It may easily be known when they are done by their changing colour. Care should be taken that they are not over-boiled, as they then become tasteless and indigestible.
_Time_.--Prawns, about 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 minutes.
_Average cost_, prawns, 2s. per lb.; shrimps, 6d. per pint.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
TO DRESS PRAWNS.
300. Cover a dish with a large cup reversed, and over that lay a small white napkin. Arrange the prawns on it in the form of a pyramid, and garnish with plenty of parsley.
BOILED SALMON.
301. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water,--sufficient water to cover the fish.
_Mode_.--Scale and clean the fish, and be particular that no blood is left inside; lay it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water to cover it, adding salt in the above proportion. Bring it quickly to a boil, take off all the sc.u.m, and let it simmer gently till the fish is done, which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone.
Experience alone can teach the cook to fix the time for boiling fish; but it is especially to be remembered, that it should never be underdressed, as then nothing is more unwholesome. Neither let it remain in the kettle after it is sufficiently cooked, as that would render it insipid, watery, and colourless. Drain it, and if not wanted for a few minutes, keep it warm by means of warm cloths laid over it. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and send lobster or shrimp sauce, and plain melted b.u.t.ter to table with it. A dish of dressed cuc.u.mber usually accompanies this fish.
_Time_.--8 minutes to each lb. for large thick salmon; 6 minutes for thin fish. _Average cost_, in full season, 1s. 3d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from April to August.
_Sufficient_, 1/2 lb., or rather less, for each person.
_Note_.--Cut lemon should be put on the table with this fish; and a little of the juice squeezed over it is considered by many persons a most agreeable addition. Boiled peas are also, by some connoisseurs, considered especially adapted to be served with salmon.
TO CHOOSE SALMON.--To be good, the belly should be firm and thick, which may readily be ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger. The circ.u.mstance of this fish having red gills, though given as a standing rule in most cookery-books, as a sign of its goodness, is not at all to be relied on, as this quality can be easily given them by art.
SALMON AND CAPER SAUCE.
302. INGREDIENTS.--2 slices of salmon, 1/4 lb. batter, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 shalot; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.
_Mode_.--Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place pieces of b.u.t.ter over it, and add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoning into the fish; baste it frequently; when done, take it out and drain for a minute or two; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve.
Salmon dressed in this way, with tomato sauce, is very delicious.
_Time_.--About 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from April to August.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
THE MIGRATORY HABITS OF THE SALMON.--The instinct with which the salmon revisits its native river, is one of the most curious circ.u.mstances in its natural history. As the swallow returns annually to its nest, so it returns to the same spot to deposit its ova. This fact would seem to have been repeatedly proved. M.
De Lande fastened a copper ring round a salmon"s tail, and found that, for three successive seasons, it returned to the same place. Dr. Bloch states that gold and silver rings have been attached by eastern princes to salmon, to prove that a communication existed between the Persian Gulf and the Caspian and Northern Seas, and that the experiment succeeded.
COLLARED SALMON.
303. INGREDIENTS.--A piece of salmon, say 3 lbs., a high seasoning of salt, pounded mace, and pepper; water and vinegar, 3 bay-leaves.
_Mode_.--Split the fish; scale, bone, and wash it thoroughly clean; wipe it, and rub in the seasoning inside and out; roll it up, and bind firmly; lay it in a kettle, cover it with vinegar and water (1/3 vinegar, in proportion to the water); add the bay-leaves and a good seasoning of salt and whole pepper, and simmer till done. Do not remove the lid. Serve with melted b.u.t.ter or anchovy sauce. For preserving the collared fish, boil up the liquor in which it was cooked, and add a little more vinegar. Pour over when cold.
_Time_.--3/4 hour, or rather more.
HABITAT OF THE SALMON.--The salmon is styled by Walton the "king of fresh-water fish," and is found distributed over the north of Europe and Asia, from Britain to Kamschatka, but is never found in warm lat.i.tudes, nor has it ever been caught even so far south as the Mediterranean. It lives in fresh as well as in salt waters, depositing its sp.a.w.n in the former, hundreds of miles from the mouths of some of those rivers to which it has been known to resort. In 1859, great efforts were made to introduce this fish into the Australian colonies; and it is believed that the attempt, after many difficulties, which were very skilfully overcome, has been successful.
CRIMPED SALMON.
304. Salmon is frequently dressed in this way at many fashionable tables, but must be very fresh, and cut into slices 2 or 3 inches thick.
Lay these in cold salt and water for 1 hour; have ready some boiling water, salted, as in recipe No. 301, and well skimmed; put in the fish, and simmer gently for 1/4 hour, or rather more; should it be very thick, garnish the same as boiled salmon, and serve with the same sauces.
_Time_.--1/4 hour, more or less, according to size.
_Note_.--Never use vinegar with salmon, as it spoils the taste and colour of the fish.
[Ill.u.s.tration: THE SALMON.]
THE SALMON TRIBE.--This is the Abdominal fish, forming the fourth of the orders of Linnaeus. They are distinguished from the other fishes by having two dorsal fins, of which the hindmost is fleshy and without rays. They have teeth both on the tongue and in the jaws, whilst the body is covered with round and minutely striated scales.
CURRIED SALMON.
305. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of boiled salmon, 3/4 pint of strong or medium stock (No. 105), 1 onion, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful of Harvey"s sauce, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 oz. of b.u.t.ter, the juice of 1/2 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Cut up the onions into small pieces, and fry them of a pale brown in the b.u.t.ter; add all the ingredients but the salmon, and simmer gently till the onion is tender, occasionally stirring the contents; cut the salmon into small square pieces, carefully take away all skin and bone, lay it in the stewpan, and let it gradually heat through; but do not allow it to boil long.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold fish, 9d.
GROWTH OF THE SALMON.--At the latter end of the year--some as soon as November--salmon begin to press up the rivers as far as they can reach, in order to deposit their sp.a.w.n, which they do in the sand or gravel, about eighteen inches deep. Here it lies buried till the spring, when, about the latter end of March, it begins to exclude the young, which gradually increase to four or five inches in length, and are then termed smelts or smouts.
About the beginning of May, the river seems to be alive with them, and there is no forming an idea of their numbers without having seen them. A seasonable flood, however, comes, and hurries them to the "great deep;" whence, about the middle of June, they commence their return to the river again. By this time they are twelve or sixteen inches long, and progressively increase, both in number and size, till about the end of July, when they have become large enough to be denominated _grilse_.
Early in August they become fewer in numbers, but of greater size, haying advanced to a weight of from six to nine pounds.
This rapidity of growth appears surprising, and realizes the remark of Walton, that "the salmlet becomes a salmon in as short a time as a gosling becomes a goose." Recent writers have, however, thrown considerable doubts on this quick growth of the salmon.