An old letter press if it be inclosed in a tin oven makes a good press, or all the necessary materials and apparatus can be purchased from a dealer. Any type such as all printers use will answer.
** To Light a Gaslight Without Matches [394]
It is probably well known that if you rub your feet briskly over a carpet on a dry, cold day and then touch any metallic object with your finger it will emit a small spark. The following amusing experiment may be done on the same principle:
[Ill.u.s.tration: Lamp Igniter]
Take any small piece of wire about 2 in. long and twist it around a gas burner as shown at A in the sketch. Have the tip of the burner about 1/8 in. below the end of the wire. The wire must be just far enough away from the center of the burner to keep it out of the flame, or else it will melt.
Now get a friend to turn on the gas when you are ready for it. Go around the room once or twice rubbing your feet along the carpet.
When you come around to the gaslight touch the point of the wire and if the gas is turned on, the light will flare right up as if it had been lit with a match.
This experiment cannot be done on a damp day or without shoes, and works best in cold weather.
--Contributed by E. H. Klipstein.
** How To Make a Trap For Rabbits, Rats and Mice [395]
From an old 6-in. pine fence board cut off four pieces 2-1/2 ft.
long and one 6 in. square for the end of the trap and another 4 in. by 8 in. for the door. Use old boards, as new boards scare rabbits.
Figure 1 shows how the box is made. It should be 4 in. wide and 6 in. high
[Ill.u.s.tration: A Good Trap for Small Animals]
on the inside. The top and bottom boards project 1 in. beyond the side boards at the back and the end board is set in. The top board should be 2 in. shorter than the sides at the front. Nail a strip on the top board back of the door and one on the bottom board so the game cannot push the door open from inside the trap and get out.
In the middle of the top board bore a hole and put a crotched stick in for the lever to rest on. Bore another hole in the top of the door for the lever to pa.s.s through. Two inches from the back of the box bore a hole for the trigger, which should be made out of heavy wire in the manner shown in Fig. 2. The door of the trap must work easily and loosely.
** Novel Electric Motor [395]
The materials necessary to make this motor are an old electric bell of the "buzzer" type and a cogwheel from an old clock.
Remove the hammer-head and gong from the bell, then bend the end of the hammer into a loop, as in Fig. 1. Now make a little wire catch like Fig. 2, and fasten its loop into the loop of the hammer. Mount the bell on a small board as in Fig. 3 and fasten the cogwheel almost on a line with it. Now press down the hammer and place a nail in the position shown in the diagram so that the catch touches one of the teeth.
Fasten the board in an upright position and attach two dry batteries to the binding-posts. If properly connected, the fly-wheel will turn quite rapidly and with amazing force for so small a machine. The machine, however, has a fixed direction as shown by the arrow, but the belting can be arranged so as to send the models in a reversed direction if required. The materials for the motor should not cost more than
[Ill.u.s.tration: Novel Electric Motor]
25c for the bell and if you have an old bell it will cost next to nothing.
--Contributed by Fred C. Curry, Brockville, Ontario.
** How to Print Photographs on Silk [396]
Silk, satin or any other fine material can be used to make photographic prints, but the most attractive results for the amateur are obtained on silk, the best color for this purpose being either cream or white, says Photography. The chemicals required are only four in number, and a comparatively small amount of each will suffice, so that the process can be tried without any very great outlay.
A dram of dextrine is mixed with 2 oz. of water and allowed to dissolve. It is then made up to 4 oz. with boiling water, and, when cold, a solution of 1 dr. of ammonium chloride in 2 oz. of water is added. As this mixture does not keep well, it should be used as soon as possible after being made up.
The silk is soaked in the liquid until it is thoroughly saturated, which should take about four or five minutes, and it is then hung up to dry, suspending it, tightly stretched, from its two top corners. The fabric when "salted," as this operation is termed, will keep indefinitely. All these operations can be done in daylight.
The next stage is the application of the sensitizer, for which purpose the two following solutions must be made up and then mixed:
Silver nitrate 120 gr.
Water 1 oz.
Citric acid 50 gr.
Water 1oz.
The mixture is spread evenly over the silk with a soft camel"s-hair brush. There must be no metal in the mounting of the brush that is used.
Particular care must be taken to see that no particle of the surface of the silk is left uncovered. The best way to insure this is to brush the liquid over the silk, first in one direction and then crosswise. The process of sensitizing must be done in a weak artificial light, such as at night by ordinary gas or lamp light, or in the very feeblest daylight.
The silk is then again fastened up and allowed to dry, but it is now sensitive to the light and the drying must therefore be done in the dark. It is ready for printing as soon as it is dry, and as it does not keep well in the sensitive condition, it should be used up within a few days at the most.
The printing, which is done in daylight, is carried on in the same way as for printing-out papers, except that the silk should be printed a little darker than usual. It will be found convenient to gum the edges slightly, and then to fix the silk on a stiff piece of paper before putting it into the printing frame. If this precaution is not adopted there is a tendency for the silk to slip or crease when it is being examined. The silk must be handled carefully while in the printing frame for this reason, but apart from that, there is no particular difficulty. The paper can be taken off when the printing is finished.
Prints on silk are toned, fixed and washed in the same way as ordinary silver prints. The washing should be thorough, and before the prints are quite dry, they should be ironed to remove all creases.
** Removing Old Paint [396]
A chair more than a hundred years old came to me by inheritance.
It was originally painted green and had been given two coats of dark paint or varnish within the last 30 years. Desiring to improve the appearance of the relic, I decided to remove the paint and give it a mahogany stain. The usual paint removers would readily take off the two latter coats but had no effect upon the first. I tried to remove the troublesome green in various ways, but with little success until I applied a hot, saturated solution of concentrated lye. By coating the paint with this repeatedly, applying one coat upon another for two days, and then using a stiff brush, the layer was easily and completely removed.
--Contributed by Thos. R. Baker, Chicago, Ill.
** A Window Lock [397]
Bore a hole through the sash of the lower window and halfway through the sash of the upper window, where they meet in the center, and insert a heavy nail or spike. This will fasten the sash together so well that nothing short of a crowbar can pry them apart. The nail can be easily removed when the windows are to be opened.
** Homemade Magnifying Gla.s.s [397]
A very good magnifying gla.s.s can be made from an ordinary incandescent lamp of about 16-cp. size which has been rendered useless by being burned out or having the filament broken. Grind or break off the tip end of the globe and fill with water. Put in clear water and plug or cork up the hole.
** Trailer for a Bicycle [397]