The etching solution should be put in a stone vessel of some kind and care should be taken not to allow it to get on the hands or clothes. A stick should be used to handle the metal while it is in the solution. This solution is made by putting in the stone jar the following: Water a little more than one-half, nitric acid a little less than one-half. DO NOT ADD THE WATER TO THE ACID. Leave the metal in this solution three or four hours. The time will depend upon the strength of the acid and the depth to which you wish the etching to be done. An occasional examination of the object will show when to take it out.
When the etching has been carried as far as desirable, take the copper from the bath and remove the asphaltum by sc.r.a.ping it as clean as possible, using an old case knife. After doing this, put some of the solution, or pickle as it is called, in an old pan and warm it over a flame. Put the metal in this hot liquid and swab it with batting or cloth fastened to the end of a stick. Rinse in clear water to stop the action of the acid. When clean, cut the metal out from the center where the picture is to be placed, using a metal saw.
Solder on the back several small clips with which to hold the picture in place. There must also be a support soldered in place to keep the frame upright. To further clean the metal before soldering, use a solution in the proportion of one-half cup of lye to 3 gal. water. Heat either the solution or the metal just before using.
When soldering, care must be taken to have the parts to be soldered thoroughly clean. Any grease or foreign matter will prevent the solder from running properly. On a piece of slate slab, heavy gla.s.s or other hard, nonabsorbent substance that is clean, put a little water and grind a lump of borax around until the resultant is like thin cream. Thoroughly clean the parts that are to be soldered by sc.r.a.ping with a knife, and do not touch with the fingers afterward. Place a piece of thin silver solder between the parts after having coated them and the solder with the borax.
Use a pair of tweezers to pick up the solder. Hold the parts firmly together and apply heat--slowly at first until all moisture has been expelled and the borax crystallized, after which the flame may be applied more directly and the parts brought to a soldering heat. An alcohol flame will do. Heat applied too quickly will throw off the solder and spoil the attempt.
There are various ways of finishing the metal. It may be polished by means of powdered pumice, chalk or charcoal, and then treated with a coat of French varnish diluted ten times its volume in alcohol. Another popular way is to give the background a bluish-green effect by brushing it over a great many times, after it has been cleaned, with a solution composed of muriate of ammonia, 1 part; carbonate of ammonia, 3 parts; water, 24 parts.
The whole may then be treated with French varnish to preserve the colors.
** How to Make an Easel [415]
A strong and substantial easel may be made at home with very little expense and no great difficulty.
Smooth down with a plane, four pieces of pine, 1 in. thick, 4 in.
wide and 4 ft. long, until suitable for legs. Make three cross-pieces, Fig. 1, and join the legs with them as shown in Fig.
2. With an auger bore a hole in each leg about 3 in. from the bottom, and fit into each a little peg, Fig. 2, for the picture to rest on. The peg should be of hardwood so it will not break.
Cut the handle from an old broom, measure off the right length, and put a hinge on one end. Fasten this leg on the second cross-piece, thus forming a support for the two front legs, Fig.
3. The easel may be finished according to the individual taste. It may be sandpapered and stained and varnished, or painted in some pretty tint, or, if preferred, may be enameled.
--Contributed by G. J. Tress.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Easel Construction]
** How to Make a Wind Propeller [415]
A wind propeller may be constructed with four old bicycle wheels arranged with shafts pretty much like the shafts of a hand-propelled cart. The platform is flatter, however, and the body one tier so that it is lower. A framework of wood is built at M and this is a support
[Ill.u.s.tration: Wind Propeller]
for several purposes. The sail is secured to the mast which is fixed into the body of the cart as shown. The sail is linen fabric. There are two crosspieces to aid in keeping the sail properly opened. The steering arrangement is through the rear shaft. The shaft is pivoted as in a hand-propelled cart, and the rod I extends from the middle connection of the shaft up to a point where the person seated on the wooden frame can handle it.
There is a brake arranged by making a looped piece J and hinging it as shown. This piece is metal, fitted with a leather face. The cord K is pulled to press the brake. I marks the support for the mast underneath the body of the cart. In a steady breeze this cart spins nicely along the roads.
** Replacing Ball Bearings [415]
Never change a single ball in a bearing. Renew them all.
** How to Construct an Annunciator [416]
Oftentimes a single electric bell may be connected in a circuit so that it can be operated from more than one push b.u.t.ton. These push b.u.t.tons are usually located in entirely different parts of the building and it is necessary to have some means of determining the particular push b.u.t.ton that was pressed and caused the bell to operate. The electric annunciator is a device that will indicate or record the various calls or signals that may be sent over the circuits to which the annunciator is connected. A very simple and inexpensive annunciator may be made in the following way:
Before taking up the construction of the annunciator it would be best to make a diagrammatic drawing of the circuit in which the annunciator is to operate. The simplest circuit that will require an annunciator is one where the bell may be operated from either of two push b.u.t.tons. In this case the annunciator must be constructed to give only two indications. Fig. 1 shows how the various" elements of such a circuit may be connected. B is an ordinary vibrating electric bell, M1 and M2 are the two electromagnets of the annunciator, A is a battery of several dry cells, and P1 and P2 are the push b.u.t.tons from either of which the bell may be operated.
When the push b.u.t.ton P1 is pressed the circuit is completed through the winding of the magnet M1 and its core becomes magnetized. In a similar manner the core of the magnet M2 becomes magnetized when the push b.u.t.ton P2 is pressed and the circuit completed through the winding of the magnet M2.
If an iron armature, that is supported by a shaft through its center and properly balanced, be placed near the ends of the cores of M1 and M2, as shown in Fig. 2, it may a.s.sume the position indicated by either the full or dotted lines, depending upon which of the magnets, M1 or M2, was last magnetized. The position of this armature will serve to indicate the push b.u.t.ton from which the bell was operated. The magnets should be placed inside a case and the indication may be made by a pointer attached to the shaft, supporting the armature.
If you are able to secure the electromagnets from a discarded electric bell they will work fine for the magnets M1 and M2. They should be disconnected from their iron support and mounted upon some non-magnetic material, such as bra.s.s or copper, making the distance between their centers as small as possible. The piece of metal upon which the magnets are mounted should now be fastened, by means of two wood screws, to the back of the board, shown in Fig. 6, that is to form the face of the annunciator. It should be about 1/8 in. thick, 1/2 in. wide and long enough to extend a short distance beyond the cores of the magnets M1 and M2. Drill a 1/16-in. hole through its center, as shown in Fig. 2. Drive a piece of steel rod into this hole, making sure the rod will not turn easily in the opening, and allow about 1/2 in. of the rod to project on one side, and 1-1/2 in. on the other side.
Drill a hole in the board upon which the magnets are mounted so that when the long end of the rod carrying the armature is pa.s.sed through the hole, the armature will be a little more than 1/16 in.
from each magnet core. The short end of the rod should be supported by means of a piece of strip bra.s.s bent into the form shown in Fig. 3.
Drill a hole in the center of this piece, so the rod will pa.s.s through it. When the armature has been put in its proper place, fasten this strip to the board with two small wood screws. You may experience some difficulty in locating the hole in the board for the rod, and it no doubt would be best to drill this hole first and fasten the magnets in place afterwards.
Two small collars should be fastened to the rod to prevent its moving endwise. Fit the collars tightly on the rod to hold them in place.
Cut the long end of the rod off so it projects through the face of the annunciator about 5/8 in. Take some very thin sheet bra.s.s and cut out a needle or indicator as shown in Fig. 4. In a small piece of bra.s.s drill a hole so it will fit tight on the other end of the rod. Solder the indicator to this piece and force it in place on the end of the rod.
When the armature is the same
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of the Annunciator]
distance from each core, the indicator should be parallel to the long dimension of the face of the case. The case of the instrument may be made in the following way:
Secure a piece of 3/8-in. oak, or other hard wood, 3 in. wide and 2 ft. long. Then cut from this board the following pieces: two whose dimensions correspond to those of Fig. 5 and are to form the sides of the case; two whose dimensions correspond to those of Fig. 6 and are to form the back and the face of the case; three whose dimensions correspond to those of Figs. 7, 8, and 9 and are to form the lower and upper end of the case and the finish for the top.
Secure a piece of window gla.s.s, 4-1/2 in. by 3-1/8 in. that is to be used as the front. Before a.s.sembling the case cut on the inner surface of the pieces forming the sides and the lower end, a groove just wide enough to take the gla.s.s and 1/16 in. in depth.
The outer edge of this groove should be 3/8 in. from the outer edge of the frame. After the case is fastened together there should be a slot between the piece forming the upper end and the piece that serves as a finish at the top, that will allow the gla.s.s to be slipped into place. A small strip of wood should be tacked over this slot, after the gla.s.s is put in place, to prevent the dust and dirt from falling down inside of the case.
The piece upon which the works are to be mounted may be fastened in place by means of four round-headed bra.s.s screws that pa.s.s through the sides of the case. It should be fastened about 1/2 in.
back of the gla.s.s front. The back may be fastened inside of the case in a similar manner.
Cut two pieces, from some sheet bra.s.s, whose dimensions correspond to those of Fig. 10. These pieces are to be used in supporting the case by means of some small screws. Fasten three binding-posts, that are to form the terminals of the annunciator, on the top of the upper end of the case. Mark one of these binding-posts C and the other two Ll and L2. Connect one terminal of each of the magnet windings to the post marked C and the other terminal to the posts Ll and L2. You can finish the case in any style you may desire. Often times it is desirable to have it correspond to the finish of the woodwork of the room in which it is to be placed.
The distance the point of the indicator will move through depends upon the distance between the cores of the magnets and the distance of the armature from these cores. These distances are often times such that the indications of the cell are not very definite. If the armature is moved too far from the cores there is not sufficient pull exerted by them when magnetized, to cause the position of the armature" to change.
Mount on the shaft carrying the armature a small gear wheel.
Arrange another smaller gear to engage this on and fasten the indicator to the shaft of the smaller gear. Any movement now of the armature shaft will result in a relative large movement of the indicator shaft. Figure 11 shows the arrangement of the gears just described.
** How to Make a Steam Calliope [418]
Secure ten gas jet valves, the part of the gas fixture shown in Fig. 1, and prepare to place them in a piece of 1-in. pipe, 12 in.
long. This is done by drilling and tapping 10 holes, each
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of the Calliope]
1 in. apart, in a straight line along the pipe. The valves screwed into these holes appear as shown in Fig. 2. The whistles are made from pipe of a diameter that will fit the valves. No dimensions can be given for the exact lengths of these pipes as they must be tried out to get the tone. Cut ten pieces of this pipe, each one of a different length, similar to the pipes on a pipe organ. Cut a thread on both ends, put a cap on the end intended for the top, and fit a plug in the other end. The plug must have a small portion of its side filed out, and a notch cut in the side of the pipe with its horizontal edge level with the top of the plug. This part of each whistle is made similar to making a bark whistle on a green stick of willow. The pipes are then screwed into the valves.
The whistles may be toned by trying out and cutting off pieces of the pipe, or by filling the top end with a little melted lead. The 1-in. pipe must have a cap screwed on one end and the other attached to a steam pipe. The steam may be supplied by using an old range boiler, placed horizontally in a fireplace made of brick or sheet iron. If such a boiler is used, a small safety valve should be attached. The keys and valve operation are shown in Fig.