Insert the short end of the tube in the cork and place the other end in a test tube that is placed in water as shown. The globe may be fastened in position by a wire pa.s.sed through the cork and tied to a ring stand. If you do not have a ring stand, suspend the globe by a wire from a hook that is screwed into any convenient place.
A neat alcohol lamp may be made of an old ink or muscilage bottle.
Insert a wick in a piece of the gla.s.s tubing and put this through a hole bored in a cork and the lamp is ready to burn alcohol or kerosene. Alcohol is cleaner to use as a fuel. Fill the globe about two-thirds full of water or other liquid and apply the heat below as shown. The distilled liquid will collect in the test tube.
--Contributed by Clarence D. Luther, Ironwood, Mich.
** Old-Time Magic
** Balancing Forks on a Pin Head [427]
Two, three and four common table forks can be made to balance on a pin head as follows: Procure an empty bottle and insert a cork in the neck. Stick a pin in the center of this cork so that the end will be about 1-1/2 in. above the tap. Procure another cork about 1 in. in diameter by 1-3/4 in. long. The forks are now stuck into the latter cork at equal distances apart, each having the same angle from the cork. A long needle with a good sharp point is run through the cork with the forks and 1/2 in. of the needle end allowed to project through the lower end.
The point of the needle now may be placed on the pin head. The forks will balance and if given a slight push they will appear to dance. Different angles of the forks will produce various feats of balancing.
--Contributed by O. E. Tronnes, Wilmette, Ill.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Balanced Spoons]
** The b.u.t.toned Cord [427]
Cut a piece of heavy paper in the shape shown in Fig. 1 and make two cuts down the center and a slit as long as the two cuts are wide at a point about 1 in. below them. A string is put through the slit, the long cuts and back through the slit and then a
[Ill.u.s.tration: Removing the String]
b.u.t.ton is fastened to each end. The small slit should not be so large as the b.u.t.tons. The trick is to remove the string. The solution is quite simple. Fold the paper in the middle and the part between the long cuts will form a loop. Bend this loop down and pa.s.s it through the small slit. Turn the paper around and it will appear as shown in Fig. 2. One of the b.u.t.tons may now be drawn through and the paper restored to its original shape.
** Experiment with an Incandescent Lamp [427]
When rubbing briskly an ordinary incandescent lamp on a piece of cloth and at the same time slightly revolving it, a luminous effect is produced similar to an X-ray tube. The room must be dark and the lamp perfectly dry to obtain good results. It appears that the inner surface of the globe becomes charged, probably by induction, and will sometimes hold the filament as shown in the sketch.
--Contributed by E. W. Davis, Chicago.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Lamp]
** How to Make a Small Motor [428]
The accompanying sketch shows how to make a small motor to run on a battery of three or four dry cells and
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Small Electric Motor]
with sufficient power to run mechanical toys. The armature is constructed, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, by using a common spool with 8 flat-headed screws placed at equal distances apart and in the middle of the spool. Each screw is wound with No. 24 gauge iron wire, as shown at A, Fig. 1. The commutator is made from a thin piece of copper, 1 in. in diameter and cut as shown in Fig.
3, leaving 8 points, 1/8 in. wide and 1/8 in.- deep. The field is built up by using 8 strips of tin, 12 in. long and 2 in. wide, riveted together and shaped as shown at B, Fig. 4. Field magnets are constructed by using two 3/8-in. bolts, 1-1/2 in. long. A circular piece of cardboard is placed on each end of the bolt, leaving s.p.a.ce enough for the bolt to pa.s.s through the field B, and to receive a nut. Wind the remaining s.p.a.ce between the cardboards with 30 ft. of No. 22 double-wound cotton-covered copper wire. A light frame of wood is built around the magnets, as shown at C, Fig. 4. Holes are made in this frame to receive the axle of the armature. Two strips of copper, 1/4 in. wide and 3 in. long, are used for the brushes. The armature is placed in position in its bearings and the brushes adjusted as shown in Fig. 4, one brush touching the shaft of the armature outside of the frame, and the other just touching the points of the commutator, which is placed on the shaft inside of the frame. Connect the outside wire of one magnet to the inside wire of the other, and the remaining ends, one to the batteries and back to the brush that touches the shaft, while the other is attached to the brush touching the commutator.
In making the frame for the armature bearings, care should be taken to get the holes for the shaft centered, and to see that the screws in the armature pa.s.s each bolt in the magnets at equal distances, which should be about 1/8 in.
** Aluminum Polish [428]
An emulsion of equal parts of rum and olive oil can be used for cleaning aluminum, says Blacksmith and Wheelwright. Potash lye, not too strong, is also effective in brightening aluminum, and benzol can be used for the same purpose.
A good polish for aluminum consists of a paste formed of emery and tallow, the finish l.u.s.ter being obtained by the use of rouge powder and oil of turpentine.
** Homemade Blowpipe [428]
Procure a clay pipe, a cork and a small gla.s.s or metal tube drawn to a small opening in one end. Make a hole in the cork just large enough to permit the tube to pa.s.s through tightly so no air can pa.s.s out except through the hole in the tube. Put the tube in the hole with the small opening at the top
[Ill.u.s.tration: A Pipe Blowpipe]
or projecting end. Push the cork into the bowl of the pipe and the blowpipe is ready for use.
--Contributed by Wilbur Cryderman, Walkerton, Onto
** Subst.i.tute Sink or Bathtub Stopper [429]
Milk-bottle caps make good subst.i.tutes for the regular rubber stoppers in sinks and bathtubs. The water soon destroys them, but as a new one usually is had each day, they can be used until a regular stopper is obtained.
A good permanent stopper can be made by cutting a hollow rubber return ball in half, using one part with the concave side up. It will fit the hole of any sink or bathtub. One ball thus makes two stoppers at a cost of about 5 cents.
** Safety Tips on Chair Rockers [429]
Some rocking chairs are so constructed that when the person occupying it gives a hard tilt backward, the chair tips over or dangerously near it. A rubber-tipped screw turned into the under side of each rocker, near the rear end, will prevent the chair from tipping too far back.
** How to Make a Toy Flier [429]
While a great many people are looking forward to the time when we shall successfully travel through the air, we all may study the problem of aerial navigation by constructing for ourselves a small flying machine as ill.u.s.trated in this article. A wing is made in the shape shown in Fig. 1 by cutting it from the large piece of an old tin can, after melting the solder and removing the ends. This wing is then given a twist so that one end will be just opposite the other and appear as shown in Fig. 2. Secure a common spool and drive two nails in one end, leaving at least 1/2 in. of each nail projecting after the head has been removed. Two holes are made in the wing, exactly central, to fit on these two nails. Another nail is driven part way into the end of a stick, Fig. 4, and the remaining part is cut off so the length will be that of the spool.
A string is used around the spool in the same manner as on a top.
The wing is placed on the two nails in the spool, and the spool placed on the nail in the stick, Fig. 5, and the flier is ready
[Ill.u.s.tration: Homemade Flying Machine]
for action. A quick pull on the string will cause the wing to leave the nails and soar upward for a hundred feet or more. After a little experience in twisting the wing the operator will learn the proper shape to get the best results.
Be very careful in making the tests before the wings are turned to the proper shape, as the direction of the flier cannot be controlled and some one might be injured by its flight.