[Ill.u.s.tration: Pneumatic Door-Opener]
bra.s.s, E, soldered to the end of the cylinder. All this apparatus is on the inside of the door and is connected by a small rubber tube, F, to a secret mouthpiece placed at some convenient location. A small piece of spring bra.s.s, screwed to the door frame, will open the door about 1/2 in. when the operator blows in the mouthpiece, or if the door is within reach of the mouthpiece, the operator may push the door at the same time that he blows, thus doing away with the spring, which is only used to keep the door from relocking.
One way of making the air connection with the outside is to bend the tube F around and stick it through the keyhole. Few burglars would ever think to blow in the keyhole.
--Contributed by Orton E. White, Buffalo, N. Y.
** A Homemade Water Motor [66]
By MRS. PAUL S. WINTER
In these days of modern improvements, most houses are equipped with a washing machine, and the question that arises in the mind of the householder is how to furnish the power to run it economically. I referred this question to my husband, with the result that he built a motor which proved so very satisfactory that I prevailed upon him to give the readers of Amateur Mechanics a description of it, hoping it may solve the same question for them.
A motor of this type will develop about 1/2 hp. with a water pressure of 70 lb. The power developed is correspondingly increased or decreased as the pressure exceeds or falls below this. In the latter case the power may be increased by using a smaller pulley. Fig. 1 is the motor with one side removed, showing the paddle-wheel in position; Fig. 2 is an end view; Fig. 3 shows one of the paddles, and Fig. 4 shows the method of shaping the paddles. To make the frame, several lengths of scantling 3 in.
wide by 1 in. thick (preferably of hard wood) are required. Cut two of them 4 ft. long, to form the main supports of the frame, AA, Fig. 1 ; another, 2 ft. 6 in. long, for the top, B, Fig. 1; another, 26 in. long, to form the slanting part, C, Fig. 1; and another, D, approximately 1 ft., according to the slant given C.
After nailing these together as shown in the ill.u.s.tration, nail two short strips on each side of the outlet, as at E, to keep the frame from spreading.
Cut two pieces 30 in. long. Lay these on the sides of the frame with their center lines along the line FF, which is 15 in. from the outside top of the frame. They are shown in Fig. 2 at GG. Do not fasten these boards now, but mark their position on the frame.
Two short boards 1 in. wide
[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of Homemade Waterwheel]
by 1 in. thick (HH, Fig. 2) and another 1 in. by 1-1/2 in. (I, Fig. 2) form a substantial base.
Cut the wheel from sheet iron 1/16 in. thick, 24 in. in diameter.
This can be done roughly with hammer and chisel and then smoothed up on an emery wheel, after which cut 24 radial slots 3/4 in. deep on its circ.u.mference by means of a hacksaw. On each side of the wheel at the center fasten a rectangular piece of 1/4-in. iron 3 by 4 in. and secure it to the wheel by means of four rivets; after which drill a 5/8 in. hole through the exact center of the wheel.
Cut 24 pieces of 1/32-in. iron, 1-1/2 by 2-1/2 in. These are the paddles. Shape them by placing one end over a section of 1-in.
pipe, and hammer bowl shaped with the peen of a hammer, as shown in Fig. 4. Then cut them into the shape shown in Fig. 3 and bend the tapered end in along the lines JJ, after which place them in the slots of the wheel and bend the sides over to clamp the wheel.
Drill 1/8-in. holes through the wheel and sides of the paddles and rivet paddles in place. Next secure a 5/8-in. steel shaft 12 in.
long to the wheel about 8 in. from one end by means of a key. This is done by cutting a groove in the shaft and a corresponding groove in the wheel and fitting in a piece of metal in order to secure the wheel from turning independently of the shaft. Procure two collars or round pieces of bra.s.s (KK, Fig. 2) with a 5/8-in.
hole through them, and fasten these to the shaft by means of set screws to prevent it from moving lengthwise.
Make the nozzle by taking a piece of 1/2-in. galvanized pipe 3-1/2 in. long and filling it with babbitt metal; then drill a 3/16-in.
hole through its center. Make this hole conical, tapering from 3/16 in. to a full 1/2 in. This is best done by using a square taper reamer. Then place the nozzle in the position shown in Fig.
1, which allows the stream of water to strike the buckets full in the center when they reach the position farthest to the right.
Take the side pieces, GG, and drill a 1-in. hole through their sides centrally, and a 1/4-in. hole from the tops to the 1-in.
holes. Fasten them in their proper position, with the wheel and shaft in place, the shaft projecting through the holes just mentioned. Now block the wheel; that is, fasten it by means of wedges or blocks of wood until the shaft is exactly in the center of the inch holes in the side pieces. Cut four disks of cardboard to slip over the shaft and large enough to cover the inch holes.
Two of these are to be inside and two outside of the frames (one to bear against each side of each crosspiece). Fasten these to the crosspieces by means of tacks to hold them securely. Pour melted babbitt metal into the 1/4-in. hole to form the bearings. When it has cooled, remove the cardboard, take down the crosspieces, and drill a 1/8-in. hole from the top of the crosspieces through the babbitt for an oil-hole.
Secure sufficient sheet zinc to cover the sides of the frame. Cut the zinc to the same shape as the frame and let it extend down to the crosspieces EE. Tack one side on. (It is well to tack strips of heavy cloth--burlap will do--along the edges under the zinc to form a water-tight joint.) Fasten the crosspiece over the zinc in its proper position. Drill a hole through the zinc, using the hole in the crosspiece as a guide. Then put the wheel in a central position in the frame, tack the other side piece of zinc in place and put the other crosspiece in place. Place the two collars mentioned before on the shaft, and fasten so as to bear against the crosspieces, in order to prevent the wheel and shaft from moving sidewise. If the bearings are now oiled, the shaft should turn easily and smoothly. Fasten a pulley 4 or 6 in. in diameter to the longest arm of the shaft.
Connect the nozzle to a water faucet by means of a piece of hose; place the outlet over a drain, and belt the motor direct to the washing-machine, sewing machine, ice-cream freezer, drill press, dynamo or any other machinery requiring not more than 1/2 hp.
This motor has been in use in our house for two years in all of the above ways, and has never once failed to give perfect satisfaction. It is obvious that, had the wheel and paddles been made of bra.s.s, it would be more durable, but as it would have cost several times as much, it is a question whether it would be more economical in the end. If sheet-iron is used, a coat of heavy paint would prevent rust and therefore prolong the life of the motor. The motor will soon pay for itself in the saving of laundry bills. We used to spend $1 a month to have just my husband"s overalls done at the laundry, but now I put them in the machine, start the motor, and leave them for an hour or so. At the end of this time they are perfectly clean, and I have noticed that they wear twice as long as when I sent them to the laundry.
** How to Make Silhouettes [68]
Photography in all branches is truly a most absorbing occupation.
Each of us who has a camera is constantly experimenting, and everyone of us is delighted when something new is suggested for such experiments.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Making a Silhouette with the Camera]
To use a camera in making silhouettes select a window facing north if possible, or if used only at times when the sun is not on it, any window will do, says the Photographic Times. Raise the window shade half way, remove any white curtains there may be, and in the center of the lower pane of gla.s.s paste by the four corners a sheet of tissue paper that is perfectly smooth and quite thick, as shown in the sketch at B. Darken the rest of the window, shutting out all light from above and the sides. Place a chair so that after being seated the head of the subject will come before the center of the tissue paper, and as near to it as possible, and when looking straight before him his face will be in clear profile to the camera.
Draw the shades of all other windows in the room. Focus the camera carefully, getting a sharp outline of the profile on the screen.
Do not stop down the lens, as this makes long exposure necessary, and the subject may move. Correct exposure depends, of course, on the lens, light and the plate. But remember that a black and white negative is wanted with as little detail in the features as possible. The best plate to use is a very slow one, or what is called a process plate.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Sample Silhouette]
In developing get all possible density in the high lights, without detail in the face, and without fog. Printing is best done on contrasty development paper with developer not too strong.
The ideal silhouette print is a perfectly black profile on a white ground. With a piece of black paper, any shape in stopping off print may be made as shown at C in the sketch.
** How to Make a Galvanoscope [68]
A galvanoscope for detecting small currents of electricity can be made from a coil of wire, A; a gla.s.s tube, B, full of water; a core, C; and a base, D, with binding posts as shown. The core C, which is made of iron and cork, is a trifle lighter than the water it displaces and will therefore normally remain in the top of the tube; but as soon as a current of electricity pa.s.ses through the coil, the core is drawn down out of sight. The current required is very small, as the core is so nearly balanced that the least attraction will cause it to sink.
The gla.s.s tube may be a test tube, as shown in Fig. 2, or an empty developer tube. If one has neither a test tube nor developer tube, an empty pill bottle may be used. The washers at the ends of the coil can be made of fiber, hard rubber, or wood; or can be taken from an old magnet. The base may be made of wood or any other insulating material and should have four short legs on the bottom.
Make the coil of single-covered wire about No. 18 and connect ends to binding posts as shown in Fig. 2.
The core is made by pushing a small nail through a piece of cork.
It should be made so that it will rise slowly when placed under water. Some filing may be necessary to get the weight just right, but it should be remembered that the buoyancy of the core can be adjusted after the parts are a.s.sembled, by pressing the cork in the bottom of the test tube. This causes compression in the water so that some is forced into the upper cork, reducing its displacement and causing it to sink. The lower cork is then slowly withdrawn, by twisting, until the core slowly rises.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Galvanoscope]
The instrument will then be adjusted ready for use. Connect the binding posts to a single cell of battery--any kind will do, as a slight current will answer. On completing
[Ill.u.s.tration: Interior View]
the circuit the core will descend; or put in a switch or push b.u.t.ton on one of the battery wires. If the b.u.t.ton be concealed where the operator can reach it, the core will obey his command to rise or fall, according to his control of the current. This is a mysterious looking instrument, the core being moved without visible connection to any other part.
** Lubricating Sheet Metal [69]
To lubricate sheet metal mix 1 qt. whale oil, 1 lb. white lead, 1 pt. water and 3 oz. finest graphite. Apply with a brush before the metal enters the dies.
** An Optical Top [69]
One of the latest optical delusions, and one not easy to explain, is Benham"s color top. Cut out the black and white disk shown in the figure, and paste on a piece of stiff cardboard. Trim the edges of the cardboard to match the shape of the disk, and make a pinhole in the center. Cut the pin in half and push it through from the under side until the head of the pin touches the cardboard. Spin slowly in a strong light and some of the lines will appear colored. The colors appear different to different people, and are changed by reversing the rotation.
[Ill.u.s.tration: An Optical Top]