When in need of small gears for experimental or model machines the amateur usually purchases them, never thinking that he could make them on his own lathe. A small attachment can be made to fasten in the tool post of a lathe and the attachment made to take a mandrel on which to place the blank for cutting a gear. The frame is made from a 1/2 in. square iron bent as shown in the sketch with the
[Ill.u.s.tration: Gear-Cutting Attachment for Lathes]
projecting end filed to fit the tool post of the lathe. A pair of centers are fitted, one of which should have a screw thread and lock nut for adjustment in putting in and removing the mandrel.
All the old clock wheels that can be found should be saved and used for index wheels. All of these wheels should be fitted to one end of the mandrel. The blank wheel is put on the outer end of the mandrel and a clock wheel having the number of teeth desired placed on the other end. When the mandrel is put in between the centers a small pawl is fastened with a screw to the frame with its upper end engaging in a tooth of the clock wheel. One clock wheel will index more than one number of teeth on a blank wheel.
For instance: if the clock wheel has 18 teeth it can be made to index 6, 9 or 18 teeth to the blank by moving the number of teeth each time 3, 2 and 1 respectively. In the sketch, A shows the end of the cutter and B the side and the shape of the cutting tool.
When the cutter A, which is in a mandrel placed in the centers of the lathe, has finished a cut for a tooth, the pawl is disengaged and the mandrel turned to another tooth in the clock wheel.
In order to get the desired height it is sometimes necessary to block up the lathe head and the final depth of the tooth adjusted by the two screws in the projecting end of the frame which rests on the rocker in the tool post. Should too much spring occur when cutting iron gears the frame can be made rigid by blocking up the s.p.a.ce between it and the lathe bed.
The cutter mandrel is placed in the centers of the lathe, or should the lathe head be raised, a short mandrel with the cutter near the end can be placed in a chuck, and adjusted to run true.
The frame holding the mandrel, gear blank and clock wheel is inserted in the tool post of the lathe and adjusted for depth of the cutter. The lathe is started and the gear blank fed on the cutter slowly until the tooth is cut. The pawl is released and the mandrel turned to the proper number of teeth and the operation repeated. In this manner gears 3 in. in diameter can be made on a 6-in. swing lathe.
--Contributed by Samuel C. Bunker, Brooklyn, N.Y.
** Wire Terminals for Battery Connections [168]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Cotter Pin Wire Terminal]
Good connections on the end of wires for batteries can be made from cotter pins, Fig. 1, about 1-1/2 in. long. Each end of the wire is put through the eye of a cotter pin, twisted around itself and soldered. The connection and eye are then covered with tape as shown in Fig. 2. When connecting to batteries, spread the pin and push the parts under the nut with one part on each side of the binding-post. When the nuts are tightened the connection will be better than with the bare wire.
--Contributed by Howard S. Bott.
** Simple Arts and Crafts Leather Work [168]
Very interesting and useful pieces of leather work can be done with nothing more for equipment than a cup pointed nail set such as carpenter use, and a nut pick.
The accompanying ill.u.s.trations show some of the things that can be made. Beginning at the left and reading to the right they are: Case for court-plaster, coin purse, lady"s card case, eye gla.s.s cleaner or pen wiper (has chamois skin within). Second row: Two book marks, note book, blotter back, book mark. Third row: Pin ball (has saddler"s felt between the two leather disks), tea cosey, gentleman"s card case or bill book. Fourth row: Needle or pin case, tea cosey, lady"s belt bag, watch fob ready for fastenings.
Procure a piece of Russian calf modeling leather. (1.) Make on paper the design wanted. (2.) Moisten the back side of the leather with sponge or cloth with as much water as it will take yet not show through on the face side. (3.) Place the leather on some hard non-absorbent material, such as bra.s.s or marble. (4.) Place the paper design on the leather and, holding it in place with the left hand, trace the outline, of the object and the decorative design with the nut pick so as to make a V-shaped groove in the leather.
(5.) Take the paper off and working on the leather directly make the grooves deeper. (6.) With the cup-pointed nail set stamp the background promiscuously. This is done by making an effort to hold the point of the set about 1/4 in. above the surface, at the same time striking light, rapid blows on the top with a hammer or mallet.
[Ill.u.s.tration: This Work Is Done with a Nail Set and Nut Pick]
With such objects as coin purses and card cases, a sewing machine will be needed to fasten the parts together. An ordinary machine will do. Frequently the parts are fastened by punching holes and lacing through these with leather thongs or silk cord.
In making symmetrical designs such as are here shown, draw center lines across the required s.p.a.ce, dividing it into as many parts as desired. Make free-hand one quarter of the design, if four parts are to be alike, or one-half of the design, if but two parts. Fold over along these center lines. Put a piece of double-surfaced carbon paper between the parts and trace over the design already drawn.
** How to Make a Simple Still [170]
A still to distill water can be made from a test tube, some heavy rubber hose, and an ordinary bottle. Secure
[Ill.u.s.tration: Distilling Water]
a stopper for the test tube, and bore a hole through the center, into which fit a small piece of tube. The bottle is also fitted with a stopper containing a piece of tube, and both bottle and test tube connected with a rubber tube.
The test tube is partly filled with water and supported or held over an alcohol lamp. The bottle should stand in a basin of cold water. When the water in the test tube begins to boil the steam pa.s.ses over to the bottle, where it condenses. The basin should be supplied with cold water as fast as it begins to get warm. The rubber tube will not stand the heat very long and if the still is to be used several times, a metal tube should be supplied to connect the test tube and bottle.
** Homemade Mariner"s Compa.s.s [170]
Magnetize an ordinary knitting needle, A, and push it through a cork, B, and place the cork exactly in the middle of the needle.
Thrust a pin, C, through the cork at right angles to the needle and stick two sharpened matches in the sides of the cork so that they will project downward as shown. The whole arrangement is balanced on a thimble with b.a.l.l.s of wax stuck on the heads of the matches. If the needle is not horizontal, pull it through the cork to one side or the other, or change
[Ill.u.s.tration: Magnetized Needle Revolving on a Pin]
the wax b.a.l.l.s. The whole device is placed in a gla.s.s berry dish and covered with a pane of gla.s.s.
** Brighten White Paint [170]
Add aluminum bronze to a white or light paint that is to be used for lettering on a dark ground.
** Quartz Electrodes Used in Receiving Wireless Messages [170]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of the Receiving Instrument]
Wireless messages have been received at Washington, D.C., from Key West, Florida, a distance of 900 miles, through a receiving instrument in which two pieces of quartz of different composition were used on the electrodes. In making an instrument of this kind the quartz can be purchased from a dealer in minerals. One piece must contain copper pyrites and the other zincites. The electrodes are made cupping to hold the minerals and each should have a screw adjustment to press the pieces of quartz in contact with each other. Connect as shown in the ill.u.s.tration, using a high resistance receiver.
--Contributed by Edwin L. Powell, Washington, D. C.
** How to Make a Glider [171]
By Carl Bates
A gliding machine is a motorless aeroplane, or flying-machine, propelled by gravity and designed to carry a pa.s.senger through the air from a high point to a lower point some distance away. Flying in a glider is simply coasting down hill on the air, and is the most interesting and exciting sport imaginable. The style of glider described in this article is known as the "two-surface" or "double-decked" aeroplane, and is composed of two arched cloth surfaces placed one above the other.
In building a glider the wood material used should be straight-grained spruce, free from knots. First prepare from spruce planks the following strips of wood. Four long beams 3/4 in. thick, 1-1/4 in. wide and 20 ft. long; 12 crosspieces 3/4 in.
thick, 3/4 in. wide and 3 ft. long; 12 uprights 1/2 in. thick, 1-1/2 in. wide and 4 ft long; 41 strips for the bent ribs 3/16 in.
thick, 1/2-in. wide and 4 ft. long; 2 arm sticks 1 in. thick, 2 in. wide and 3 ft. long; the rudder sticks 3/4 in. square and 8 ft long; several strips 1/2 in. by 3/4 in. for building the vertical and horizontal rudders. The frames for the two main surfaces should be constructed first, by bolting the crosspieces to the long beams at the places shown by the dimensions in Fig. 1. If 20-ft. lumber cannot be procured, use 10-ft. lengths and splice them, as shown in Fig. 3. All bolts used should be 1/8 in. in diameter and fitted with washers on both ends. These frames formed by the crosspieces should be braced by diagonal wires as shown.
All wiring is done with No. 16 piano wire.
The 41 ribs may be nailed to the main frames on the upper side by using fine flat-headed brads 7/8 in. long. These ribs are s.p.a.ced 1 ft. apart and extend 1 ft. beyond the rear edges of the main frames, as shown in Fig. 1. After nailing one end of a rib to the front long beam, the rib is arched by springing down the loose end and nailing to the rear beam. The ribs should have a curve as shown in Fig. 2, the amount of curvature being the same in all the ribs.
The frames of the main surfaces are now ready to be covered with cloth. Cambric or bleached muslin should be used for the covering, which is tacked to the front edge, stretched tightly over the bent ribs and fastened securely with tacks to the rear ends of the ribs. The cloth should also be glued to the ribs for safety. In the center of the lower plane surface there should be an opening 2 ft. wide and 4 ft. long for the body of the operator. Place the two main surfaces 4 ft. apart and connect with the 12 uprights, placed in the corner of each crosspiece and beam. The uprights are fastened by bolting to the crosspieces, as shown in Fig. 2. The whole structure is made strong and rigid by bracing with diagonal wires, both laterally and longitudinally.
The vertical rudder is to keep the machine headed into the wind and is not movable. This rudder is made of cloth stretched over a light wooden frame, which is nailed to the rudder sticks connecting to the main frame. The horizontal rudder is also made of cloth stretched over a light wooden frame, and arranged to intersect the vertical rudder at its center. This rudder is held in position and strengthened by diagonal wires and guy wires. The horizontal rudder is also immovable and its function is to prevent the machine from diving, and also to keep it steady in its flight.
The rudders are fastened to the glider by the two rudder sticks, and these sticks are held rigid by diagonal wire and also by guy wires leading to the sides of the main frames as shown in Fig. 1.
The two arm sticks should be s.p.a.ced about 13 in. apart and bolted to the long beams in the center of the opening in the lower plane where the operator is to take his position.