After several hours" drying, I cleaned the surplus sh.e.l.lac out of the holes and played them.
As the needle pa.s.sed over the cracks the noise was hardly audible.
These records have been played for a year and they sound almost as good as new.
--Contributed by Marion P. Wheeler, Greenleaf, Oregon.
** New Use for a Vacuum Cleaner [25]
An amateur mechanic who had been much annoyed by the insects which were attracted to his electric lights found a solution in the pneumatic moth trap described in a recent issue of Popular Mechanics. He fixed a funnel to the end of the intake tube of a vacuum cleaner and hung it under a globe. The insects came to the light, circled over the funnel and disappeared. He captured several pounds in a few hours.
--Contributed by Geo. F. Turl, Canton, Ill.
** Filtering with a Small Funnel [25]
In filtering a large amount of solution one usually desires some means other than a large funnel and something to make the watching of the process unnecessary. If a considerable quant.i.ty of a solution be placed in a large bottle or flask, and a cork with a small hole in it inserted in the mouth, and the apparatus suspended in an inverted position over a small funnel so that the opening of the cork is just below the water level in the funnel, the filtering process goes on continuously with no overflow of the funnel.
As soon as the solution in the funnel is below the cork, air is let into the flask and a small quant.i.ty of new solution is let down into the funnel. The process works well and needs no watching, and instead of the filtrate being in a large filter paper, it is on one small piece and can be handled with ease.
--Contributed by Loren Ward, Des Moines, Iowa.
** A Postcard Rack [25]
The ill.u.s.tration shows a rack for postcards. Those having houses
[Ill.u.s.tration: Finished Rack]
with mission-style furniture can make such a rack of the same material as the desk, table or room furnishings and finish it in the same manner.
The dimensions are given in the detail sketch. The two ends are cut from 1/4-in. material, the bottom being 3/8 in. thick. Only three pieces are required, and as they are simple in design, anyone can cut them out with a
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of the Rack]
saw, plane and pocket knife.
--Contributed by Wm. Rosenberg, Worcester, Ma.s.s.
** Subst.i.tute Shoe Horn [25]
A good subst.i.tute for a shoe horn is a handkerchief or any piece cloth used in the following way: Allow part of the handkerchief or cloth to enter the shoe, place the toe of the foot in the shoe so as to hold down the cloth, and by pulling up on the cloth so as to keep it taut around the heel the foot will slide into the shoe just as easily as if a shoe horn were used.
--Contributed by Thomas E. Dobbins, Glenbrook, Conn.
** Building a Small Photographic Dark Room [26]
In building a photographic dark room, it is necessary to make it perfectly light-tight, the best material to use being matched boards. These boards are tongued and grooved and when put together effectually prevent the entrance of light.
The next important thing to be considered is to make it weather-tight, and as far as the sides are concerned the matched boards will do this also, but it is necessary to cover the roof with felt or water-proof paper.
The best thickness for the boards is 1 in., but for cheapness 3/4 in. will do as well, yet the saving is so little that the 1-in.
boards are preferable.
The dark room shown in the accompanying sketch measures 3 ft. 6 in. by 2 ft. 6 in., the height to the eaves being 6 ft. Form the two sides shown in Fig 1, fixing the crosspieces which hold the boards together in such positions that the bottom one will act as a bearer for the floor, and the second one for the developing bench. Both sides can be put together in this way, and both exactly alike. Keep the ends of the crosspieces back from the edges of the boards far enough to allow the end boards to fit in against them.
One of the narrow sides can be formed in the same way, fixing the crosspieces on to correspond, and then these three pieces can be fastened together by s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g the two wide sides on the narrow one.
Lay the floor next, s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g or nailing the boards to the crosspieces, and making the last board come even with the ends of the crosspieces, not even with the boards themselves. The single boards can then be fixed, one on each side of what will be the doorway, by s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g to the floor, and to the outside board of the sides. At the top of the doorway, fix a narrow piece between the side boards, thus leaving a rectangular opening for the door.
The roof boards may next be put on, nailing them to each other at the ridge, and to the sides of the room at the outsides and eaves.
They should overhang at the sides and eaves about 2 in., as shown in Figs. 3 and 4.
One of the sides with the crosspieces in place will be as shown in Fig. 2 in section, all the crosspieces and bearers intersecting around the room.
The door is made of the same kind of boards held together with crosspieces, one of which is fastened so as to fit closely to the floor when the door is hinged, and act as a trap for the light.
The top crosspiece is also fastened within 1 in. of the top of the door for the same reason.
Light traps are necessary at the sides and top of the door. That at the hinged side can be as shown at A, Fig. 5, the closing side as at B, and the top as at C in the same drawing. These are all in section and are self-explanatory. In hinging the door, three b.u.t.t hinges should be used so as to keep the joint close.
The fittings of the room are as shown sectionally in Fig. 6, but before fixing these it is best to line the room with heavy, brown wrapping paper, as an additional safeguard against the entrance of light.
The developing bench is 18 in. wide, and in the middle an opening, 9 by 11 in., is cut, below which is fixed the sink. It is shown in detail in Fig. 7, and should be zinc lined.
The zinc should not be cut but folded as shown in Fig. 8, so that it will fit inside the sink. The bench at each side of the sink should be fluted (Fig. 9), so that the water will drain off into the sink. A strip should be fixed along the back of the bench as shown in Figs. 6 and 9, and an arrangement of slats (Fig. 10), hinged to it, so as to drop on the sink as in Fig. 6, and shown to a larger scale in Fig. 11.
A shelf for bottles and another for plates, etc., can be fixed above the developing bench as at D and E (Fig. 6) and another as F in the same drawing. This latter forms the bottom of the tray rack, which is fixed on as shown
[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of the Dark Rook]
in Fig. 13. The divisions of the tray rack are best fitted loosely in grooves formed by fixing strips to the shelves and under the bench and sink as in Fig. 13.
Extra bearing pieces will be wanted for the shelves mentioned above, these being shown in Fig. 14. The window is formed by cutting an opening in the side opposite the door, and fixing in it a square of white gla.s.s with strips of wood on the inside and putty on the outside, as in Fig. 15. A ruby gla.s.s is framed as shown at G, Fig. 16, and arranged to slide to and fro in the grooved runners H, which makes it possible to have white light, as at I, or red light as at K, Fig. 16. The white gla.s.s with runners in position is shown at L in the same drawing, but not the red gla.s.s and frame. Ventilation is arranged for by boring a series of holes near the floor, as at M, Fig. 6, and near the roof as at N in the same drawing, and trapping the light without stopping the pa.s.sage of air, as shown in the sections, Fig. 17.
The finish of the roof at the gables is shown in Fig. 18, the strip under the boards holding the felt in position when folded under, and the same is true of the roll at the top of the roof in Fig. 19.
The house will be much strengthened if strips, as shown in Fig.
20, are fastened in the corners inside, after lining with brown paper, s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g them each way into the boards. The door may have a latch or lock with a k.n.o.b, but should in addition have two b.u.t.tons on the inside, fixed so as to pull it shut tightly at top and bottom. A waste pipe should be attached to the sink and arranged to discharge through the floor. A cistern with pipe and tap can be fastened in the top of the dark room, if desired, or the room may be made with a flat roof, and a tank stand on it, though this is hardly advisable.
It is absolutely necessary that the room be well painted, four coats at first is not too many, and one coat twice a year will keep it in good condition.
A brick foundation should be laid so that no part of the room touches the ground.
** The Versatile Querl [28]