Sixth, chase or stamp along the border of the design and background using a nail filed to a chisel edge. This is to make a clean sharp division between background and design. Seventh, when the stamping is complete remove the screws and metal from the board and cut off the extra margin with the metal shears. File the edges until they are smooth to the touch.
The drip cup is a piece of bra.s.s cut circular and shaped by placing the bra.s.s over a hollow in one end of a block. Give the metal a circular motion, at the same time beat it with a round-nosed mallet. Work from the center along concentric rings outward, then reverse.
The candle holders may have two, three, four, or six arms, and are bent to shape by means of the round-nosed
[Ill.u.s.tration: Completed Sconce; Shaping the Holders; Riveting]
pliers. The form of the brackets which support the drip cups may be seen in the ill.u.s.tration.
Having pierced the bracket, drip cup, and holder, these three parts are riveted together as indicated in the drawing. It will be found easier usually if the holder is not shaped until after the riveting is done. The bracket is then riveted to the back of the sconce. Small copper rivets are used.
It is better to polish all the pieces before fastening any of them together. Metal polish of any kind will do. After the parts have been a.s.sembled a lacquer may be applied to keep the metal from tarnishing.
** How To Make a Hectograph [326]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Making Copies with the Hectograph]
A hectograph is very simply and easily made and by means of it many copies of writing can be obtained from a single original.
Make a tray of either tin or pasteboard, a little larger than the sheet of paper you ordinarily use and about 1/2 in. deep. Soak 1 oz. of gelatine in cold water over night and in the morning pour off the water. Heat 6-1/2 oz. of glycerine to about 200 deg. F. on a water bath, and add the gelatine. This should give a clear glycerine solution of gelatine.
Place the tray so that it is perfectly level and pour in the gelatinous composition until it is nearly level with the edge of the tray. Cover it so the cover does not touch the surface of the composition and let it stand six hours, when it will be ready for use.
Make the copy to be reproduced on ordinary paper with aniline ink; using a steel pen, and making the lines rather heavy so they have a greenish color in the light. A good ink may be made of methyl violet 2 parts, alcohol 2 parts, sugar 1 part, glycerine 4 parts, and water 24 parts. Dissolve the violet in the alcohol mixed with the glycerine; dissolve the sugar in the water and mix both solutions.
When the original copy of the writing is ready moisten the surface of the hectograph slightly with a sponge, lay the copy face down upon it and smooth down, being careful to exclude all air bubbles and not shifting the paper. Leave it nearly a minute and raise one corner and strip it from the pad, where will remain a reversed copy of the inscription.
Immediately lay a piece of writing paper of the right size on the pad, smooth it down and then remove as before. It will bear a perfect copy of the original. Repeat the operation until the number of copies desired is obtained or until the ink on the pad is exhausted. Fifty. or more copies can be obtained from a single original.
When through using the hectograph wash it off with a moist sponge, and it will be ready for future use. If the surface is impaired at any time it can be remelted in a water bath and poured into a tray as before, if it has not absorbed too much ink.
** How to Make a Sailomobile [326]
By Frank Mulford, Shiloh, N. J.
I had read of the beach automobiles used on the Florida coast; they were like an ice boat with a sail, except they had wheels instead of runners. So I set to work to make something to take me over the country roads.
I found and used seven fence pickets for the frame work, and other things as they were needed. I spliced two rake handles together for the mast, winding the ends where they came together with wire.
A single piece would be better if you can get one long enough. The gaff, which is the stick to which the upper end of the sail is fastened, is a broomstick. The boom, the stick at the bottom of the sail, was made of a rake handle with a broomstick spliced to make it long enough. Mother let me have a sheet, which I put down on the floor and cut into the shape of a mainsail. The wind was the cheapest power to be found, thus it was utilized; the three wheels were cast-off bicycle wheels.
I steer with the front wheel, which was the front wheel of an old bicycle with the fork left on. The axle between the rear wheels is an iron bar which cost me 15 cents, and the pulley which raises and lowers the sail cost 5 cents. Twenty cents was all I spent, all the rest I found.
A saw, hammer, and brace and bit were the tools used. Slats made the seat and a cushion from the house made it comfortable, and in a week
[Ill.u.s.tration: Sailomobile for Use on Country Roads]
everything was ready for sailing.
Once it was started with only my little cousin in it and I had to run fast to catch up.
** A Home-Made Magic Lantern [328]
The essential parts of a magic lantern are a condensing lens to make the beam of light converge upon the slide to illuminate it evenly, a projecting lens
[Ill.u.s.tration: Lantern House]
with which to throw an enlarged picture of the illuminated slide upon a screen and some appliances for preserving the proper relation of these parts to each other. The best of materials should be used and the parts put together with care to produce a clear picture on the screen.
The first to make is the lamp house or box to hold the light. Our ill.u.s.tration shows the construction for an electric light, yet the same box may be used for gas or an oil lamp, provided the material is of metal. A tin box having dimensions somewhere near those given in the diagrammatic sketch may be secured from your local grocer, but if such a box is not found, one can be made from a piece of tin cut as shown in Fig. 1. When this metal is bent at right angles on the dotted lines it will form a box as shown in Fig. 2
[Ill.u.s.tration: Magic Lantern Details]
which is placed on a baseboard, 1/2 to 3/4 in. thick, 8 in. wide, and 14 in. long. This box should be provided with a reflector located just back of the lamp.
Procure a plano-convex or a bi-convex 6-in. lens with a focal length of from 15 to 20 in. and a projecting lens 2 in. in diameter with such a focal length that will give a picture of the required size, or a lens of 12-in. focus enlarging a 3-in. slide to about 6 ft. at a distance of 24 ft.
The woodwork of the lantern should be of 1/2-in., well seasoned pine, white wood or walnut and the parts fastened together with wood screws, wire brads, or glue, as desired. The board in which to mount the condensing lens is 16 in. wide and 15 in. high, battened on both ends to keep the wood from warping. The board is centered both ways, and, at a point 1 in. above the center, describe a 9-in. circle with a compa.s.s and saw the wood out with a scroll or keyhole saw. If a small saw is used, and the work carefully done, the circular piece removed will serve to make the smaller portion of the ring for holding the condensing lens. This ring is made up from two rings, A and B, Fig. 3. The inside and outside diameters of the ring B are 3/8 in. greater than the corresponding diameters of ring A, so when fastened together concentrically an inner rabbet is formed for the reception of the lens and an outer rabbet to fit against the board C in and against which it rotates being held in place by b.u.t.tons, DD.
A table, E, about 2 ft. long is fastened to the board C with brackets F and supported at the outer end with a standard. The slide support, G, and the lens slide, H, are constructed to slip easily on the table, E, the strips II serving as guides. Small strips of tin, JJ, are bent as shown and fastened at the top and bottom of the rectangular opening cut in the support G for holding the lantern slides.
All the parts should be joined together snugly and the movable parts made to slide freely and when all is complete and well sandpapered, apply two coats of sh.e.l.lac varnish. Place the lamp house on the bottom board behind the condensing lens and the lantern is ready for use.
The proper light and focus may be obtained by slipping the movable parts on the board E, and when the right position is found for each, all lantern slides will produce a clear picture on the screen, if the position of the lantern and screen is not changed.
--Contributed by Stuart Mason Kerr, St. Paul, Minn.
** A Quickly Made Lamp [329]
A very simple lamp can be made from materials which are available in practically every household in the following manner: A cheap gla.s.s tumbler is partly filled with water and then about 1/2 in.
of safe, light burning oil, placed on the water. Cut a thin strip from an ordinary cork and make a hole in the center to carry a short piece of wick. The wick should
[Ill.u.s.tration: Lamp]
be of such a length as to dip into the oil, but not long enough.
To reach the water. The upper surface of the cork may be protected from the flame with a small piece of tin bent over the edges and a hole punched in the center for the wick. The weight of the tin will force the cork down into the oil. The level of the oil should be such as to make the flame below the top of the tumbler and the light then will not be blown out with draughts. The arrangement is quite safe as, should the gla.s.s happen to upset, the water at once extinguishes the flame.
--Contributed by G. P. B.
** How to Make a Paper Aeroplane [329]
A very interesting and instructive toy aeroplane can be made as shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.trations. A sheet
[Ill.u.s.tration: Folding the Paper]