** Russian Squirrels [449]
The squirrel slaughter of Russia amounts to 25,000,000 per year.
** Landscape Drawing Made Easy [449]
With this device anyone, no matter how little his artistic ability may be, can draw accurately and quickly any little bit of scenery or other subject and get everything in the true perspective and in the correct proportion.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Drawing with the Aid of Reflecting Gla.s.ses]
No lens is required for making this camera-just a plain mirror set at an angle of 45 deg., with a piece of ordinary gla.s.s underneath, a screen with a peek hole and a board for holding the drawing paper. The different parts may be fastened together by means of a box frame, or may be hinged together to allow folding up when carrying and a good tripod of heavy design should be used for supporting it. In order to get the best results the screen should be blackened on the inside and the eyepiece should be blackened on the side next to the eye. A piece of black cardboard placed over the end of the eyepiece and perforated with a pin makes an excellent peek hole.
In operation the rays of light coming from any given object, such as the arrow AB, strike the inclined mirror and are reflected downward. On striking the inclined gla.s.s a portion of the light is again reflected and the rays entering the eye of the operator produce the virtual image on the paper as shown. The general outlines may be sketched in quickly, leaving the details to be worked up later. This arrangement may be used for interior work when the illumination is good.
** Irrigating with Tomato Cans [450]
The following is an easy and effective way to start plants in dry weather: Sink an ordinary tomato can, with a 1/8-in. hole 1/2 in.
from the bottom, in the ground so that the hole will be near the roots of the plant. Tamp the dirt around both plant and can, and fill the latter with water. Keep the can filled until the plant is out of danger.
--Contributed by L. L. Schweiger, Kansas City, Mo.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Irrigation]
** Fountain for an Ordinary Pen [450]
Take two steel pens, not the straight kind, and place them together, one above the other, in the penholder.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Two Pens In Holder]
With one dip of ink 60 or 70 words may be written. This saves time and the arrangement also prevents the ink from dropping off the pen.
--Contributed by L. M. Lytle, Kerrmoor, Pa.
** Homemade Mousetrap [450]
Bore a 1-in. hole, about 2 in. deep, in a block of wood and drive a small nail with a sharp point at an angle so it will project into the hole about half way between the top and bottom, and in the center of the hole, as shown.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Hole In Wood Block]
File the end very sharp and bend it down so that when the mouse pushes its head past it in trying to get the bait at the bottom of the hole, the sharp point will catch it when it tries to back out.
Almost anyone can make this trap in a short time, and it will catch the mice as surely as a more elaborate trap.
** Clear Wax Impressions from Seals [450]
A die must be slightly damp to make clear impressions on sealing wax and to keep it from sticking to the wax. A very handy way to moisten the die is to use a pad made by tacking two pieces of blotting paper and one of
[Ill.u.s.tration: Blotter Pad]
cloth to a wooden block of suitable size, and saturate the blotters with water before using. Stamp the die on the pad and then on the hot wax. The result will be a clear, readable impression.
--Contributed by Fred Schumacher, Brooklyn, N. Y.
** A Window Stick [450]
Although the windows in factories and houses are usually provided with weights, yet the stick shown in the sketch will be found very handy in case all of the windows are not so equipped. It is made of a piece of pine wood long
[Ill.u.s.tration: Notches In Stick]
enough to hold the lower sash at a height even with the bottom of the upper, and about 1-1/2 or 2 in. wide. Notches may be cut in the stick as shown, each being wide enough to firmly hold the sash. Thus, with the stick ill.u.s.trated, the sash may be held at three different heights on the side A, and at still another on the side B.
--Contributed by Katharine D. Morse, Syracuse, N. Y.
** How to Make a Canoe [451]
A practical and serviceable canoe, one that is inexpensive, can be built by any boy, who can wield hammer and saw, by closely following the instructions and drawings, given in this article.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Canoe and Molds Details]
It is well to study these carefully before beginning the actual work. Thus an understanding will be gained of how the parts fit together, and of the way to proceed with the work.
Dimensioned drawings of the canoe and molds are contained in Fig.
1. The boat is built on a temporary base, A, Fig. 2, which is a board, 14 ft. 1 in. long, 3 in. wide and 1-1/2 in. thick. This base is fastened to the trestles and divided into four sections, the sections on each side of the center being 4 ft. long.
The next thing to be considered are the molds (Fig. 3). These are made of 1-in. material. Sc.r.a.p pieces may be found that can be used for these molds. The dimensions given in Fig 1 are for one-half of each form as shown in Fig. 3, under their respective letters. The molds are then temporarily attached to the base on the division lines.
Proceed to make the curved ends as shown in Fig. 4. Two pieces of
[Ill.u.s.tration: Shaping the Canoe]
straight-grained green elm, 32 in. long, 1-3/4, in. wide and 1 in.
thick, will be required. The elm can be obtained from a carriage or blacksmith"s shop. The pieces are bent by wrapping a piece of wire around the upper end and baseboard. The joint between the curved piece and the base is temporary. Place a stick between the wires and twist them until the required shape is secured. If the wood does not bend readily, soak it in boiling water. The vertical height and the horizontal length of this bend are shown in Fig. 4.
The twisted wire will give the right curve and hold the wood in shape until it is dry.
The gunwales are the long pieces B, Fig. 2, at the top of the canoe. These are made of strips of ash, 15 ft. long, 1 in. wide and 1 in. thick. Fasten them temporarily to the molds, taking care to have them snugly fit the notches shown. The ends fit over the outside of the stem and stern pieces and are cut to form a sharp point, as shown in Fig. 5. The ends of the gunwales are fastened permanently to the upper ends of the bent stem and stern pieces with several screws.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Construction of the Various Parts]
Two other light strips, C and D, Fig. 2, are temporarily put in, and evenly s.p.a.ced between the gunwales and the bottom board. These strips are used to give the form to the ribs, and are removed when they have served their purpose.
The ribs are now put in place. They are formed of strips of well seasoned elm or hickory, soaked in boiling water until they bend without breaking or cracking. Each rib should be 1-1/2 in.