[Ill.u.s.tration: Gasoline Burner]
of only 1 in. One end of the copper tube is bent around so it will point directly into the reamed-out hole in the end of the bra.s.s tube, A. A nipple, N, is made by drilling a 1/8-in. hole halfway through a piece of bra.s.s and tapping to screw on the end of the 1/8-in. copper pipe. A 1/64-in. hole is then drilled through the remaining part of the nipple. The other end of the copper tube is connected to the supply tank. The distance between the nipple, N, and the ends of the tube, A, should be only 5/16 of an inch. Fig.
2 shows the end view.
** A Homemade Telephone Receiver [55]
A telephone receiver that will do good work may be built very cheaply as follows: For the case use an ordinary 1/2-lb.
baking-powder box with a piece of heavy wire soldered on the inside, 1-5/16 in. from the bottom. For the magnet use a piece of round hardened steel about 3/8 in. in diameter and 1-1/4 in. long.
If desired, a piece of an old round file may be used for the magnet core, which should be magnetized previous to a.s.sembling, either by pa.s.sing a current of electricity around it, or by direct contact with another magnet. The steel core should be wound with about 250 ft. of No. 36 insulated wire, the ends of which should be soldered to a piece of
[Ill.u.s.tration: Telephone Receiver]
lamp cord, pa.s.sed through a hole in the bottom of the can and knotted inside to prevent pulling out.
A disk of thin sheet-iron, such as is used by photographers for tintypes (Ferrotype), should be cut to the diameter of the can, taking care not to bend the iron. The magnet should then be placed in the bottom of the can in an upright position and enough of a melted mixture of beeswax and resin poured in to hold it in position.
While the wax is still in a plastic condition the magnet should be located centrally and adjusted so that the end will be 1/16 in. or less below the level of the top of the copper ring.
After the wax has hardened the disk is slipped in and fastened tightly by a ring of solder when the instrument is ready for use.
** How to Bind Magazines [56]
An easy way to bind Popular Mechanics in volumes of six months each is to arrange the magazines in order and tie them securely both ways with a strong cord. It is well to put two or three sheets of tough white paper, cut to the size of the pages, at the front and back for fly leaves.
Clamp the whole in a vise or clamp with two strips of wood even with the back edges of the magazines. With a sharp saw cut a slit in the magazines and wood strips about 1/2 in. deep and slanting as shown at A and B, Fig. 1. Take two strips of stout cloth, about 8 or 10 in. long and as wide as the distance between the bottoms of the sawed slits. Lay these over the back edge of the pack and tie securely through the slits with a string thread--wrapping and tying several times (C, Fig. 2).
If you have access to a printer"s paper knife, trim both ends and the front edge; this makes a much nicer book, but if the paper knife cannot be used, clamp the whole between two boards and saw off the edges, boards and all, smoothly, with a fine saw.
Cut four pieces of cardboard, 1/4 in. longer and 1/4 in. narrower than the magazines after they have been trimmed. Lay one piece of the board on the book and under the cloth strips. Use ordinary flour paste and paste the strips to the cardboard and then rub paste all over the top of the strips and the board. Rub paste over one side of another piece of board and put it on top of the first board and strips, pressing down firmly so that the strips are held securely between the two boards. Turn the book over and do the same with the other two boards.
After the paste has dried a few minutes take a piece of strong cloth, duck or linen, fold and cut it 1 in. larger all around than the book, leaving the folded edge uncut. Rub paste over one of the board backs and lay one end of the cloth on it, smoothing and creasing as shown at A, Fig. 3. Turn the book over and paste the other side. The back edges should have a good coat of paste and a strip of paper
[Ill.u.s.tration: Process of Homemade Binding]
the width of the thickness of the pack pasted on before pasting the cloth to the second board back.
Cut off the corners and fold over the edges of the cloth, pasting them down (Fig. 4). Rub paste on one side of a fly leaf and press the back down on it. Turn the book over and paste a fly leaf to the other back after the edges of the cloth have been folded down.
The backs must not be opened until the fly leaves are thoroughly dry. Trim and tuck in the ends of the strip at the back edge.
When fixed this way your magazines make one of the most valuable volumes you can possibly add to your library of mechanical books.
--Contributed by Joseph N. Parker, Bedford City, Va.
** A Homemade Acetylene-Gas Generator [57]
A simple acetylene-gas generator used by myself for several years when
[Ill.u.s.tration: Acetylene Gas Generator]
out on camping trips was made of a galvanized iron tank, without a head, 18 in. in diameter and 30 in. deep, B, as shown in the sketch. Another tank, A, is made the same depth as B, but its diameter is a little smaller, so that inverted it will just slip easily into the tank B. In the bottom, or rather the top now, of tank A is cut a hole, and a little can, D, is fitted in it and soldered. On top and over can D is soldered a large tin can screw.
A rubber washer is fitted on this so that when the screw top, E, is turned on it, the joint will be gas tight. Another can, C, which will just slip inside the little can, is perforated with a number of holes. This can C is filled about half full of broken pieces of carbide and then placed in the little can D. A gas c.o.c.k, H, is soldered onto tank A, as shown, from which the gas may be taken through a rubber tube. Fill tank B with water and set tank A into it. This will cause some air to be enclosed, which can be released by leaving the c.o.c.k open until tank A settles down to the point where the water will begin to run in the perforations of the little tank. The water then comes in contact with the carbide and forms gas, which expands and stops the lowering of tank A. Then the c.o.c.k must be closed and tubing attached. It is dangerous to attempt to strike a match to light a jet or the end of the c.o.c.k while air is escaping and just as the first gas is being made.
Wait until the tank is well raised up before doing this.
--Contributed by James E. n.o.ble, Toronto, Ont.
** Homemade Annunciator [57]
When one electric bell is operated from two push-b.u.t.tons it is impossible to tell which of the two push-b.u.t.tons is being operated unless an annunciator or similar device is used. A very simple annunciator for indicating two numbers can be made from a small box, Fig. 1, with an electric-bell magnet, A, fastened in the bottom. The armature, B, is pivoted in the center by means of a small piece of wire and has an indicator or hand, C, which moves to either right or left, depending on which half of the magnet is magnetized. If the back armature, D, of the magnet is removed the moving armature will work better, as this will prevent the magnetism from acting on both ends of the armature.
The wiring diagram, Fig. 2, shows how the connections are to be made. If the pushb.u.t.ton A is closed; the bell will ring and the pointer will point at 1,
[Ill.u.s.tration: Annuciator and Wiring Diagram]
while the closing of the push-b.u.t.ton B will ring the bell and move the pointer to 2.
--Contributed by H. S. Bott, Beverly, N. J.
** How to Make a Box Kite [58]
As some of the readers of Amateur Mechanics may desire to build a box kite, a simple method of constructing one of the modern type is given in detail as follows: The sticks should be made of straight grained wood, which may be either spruce, ba.s.swood or white pine. The longitudinal corner spines, A A, should be 3/8 in.
square by 42 in. long, and the four diagonal struts, B, should be 1/4 in. by 1/2 in., and about 26 in. long. Two cloth bands should be made to the exact dimensions given in the sketch and fastened to the four longitudinal sticks with 1 oz. tacks. It is well to mark the positions of the sticks on the cloth bands, either with a soft lead-pencil or crayon, in order to have the four sides of each band exactly equal. The ends of the bands should be lapped over at least 1/2 in. and sewed double to give extra strength, and the edges should be carefully hemmed, making the width, when finished, exactly 12 in. Probably the best cloth for this purpose is nainsook, although lonsdale cambric or lightweight percaline will answer nearly as well.
The diagonal struts, B, should be cut a little too long, so that they will be slightly bowed when put in position, thus holding the cloth out taut and flat. They should be tied together at the points of intersection and the ends should be wound with coa.r.s.e harness maker"s thread, as shown at C, to prevent splitting. The small guards, D, are nailed or glued to the longitudinal sticks to prevent the struts slipping out of position. Of course the ends of the struts could be fastened to the longitudinal strips if desired, but if made as described the kite may be readily taken apart and rolled up for convenience in carrying.
The bridle knots, E, are shown in detail at H and J. H is a square knot, which may be easily loosened and
[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of Box Kite]
shifted to a different position on the bridle, thus adjusting the lengths of F and G. A bowline knot should be tied at J, as shown, to prevent slipping. If the kite is used in a light wind, loosen the square knot and shift nearer to G, thus shortening G and lengthening F, and if a strong wind is blowing, shift toward F, thereby lengthening G and making F shorter. In a very strong wind do not use the bridle, but fasten a string securely to the stick at K.
--Contributed by Edw. E. Harbert, Chicago.
** Lubricating a Camera Shutter [58]
An experienced photographer uses blacklead [graphite] for grooves about a camera or holder. A small quant.i.ty is rubbed well into the grooves and on the edges of shutters, that refuse to slide easily, with gratifying results. Care must be taken to allow no dust to settle in the holders, however.
** Simple Open-Circuit Telegraph Line [59]
By using the circuit shown in the sketch for short-distance telegraph lines, the extra switches and wiring found in many circuits are done away with. Closing either key will operate both sounders, and, as the resistance of