** How to Make Lantern Slides [127]
The popularity of lantern slides, and especially of colored ones, as a means of ill.u.s.trating songs, has caused so large a demand for this cla.s.s of work that almost any amateur may take up slide making at a good profit. The lantern slide is a gla.s.s plate, coated with slow and extremely fine-grained emulsion. The size is 3-1/4 by 4 in. A lantern slide is merely a print on a gla.s.s plate instead of on paper. Lantern slides can be made in two different ways. One is by contact, exactly the same as a print is made on paper, and the other by reduction in the camera. In making slides by contact, select the negative and place it in the printing frame and put the lantern plate upon it, film to film. Clamp down the back and expose just as in making a print. A good method of exposing is to hold a lighted match about 3 in. from the frame for three or more seconds according to the density.
Development is carried on in the same manner as with a negative.
The image should appear in. about a minute, and development should be over in three or four minutes. If the exposure has been correct, the high lights will stay white throughout the development and will come out as clear gla.s.s after fixing. It is best to use the developers recommended by the manufacturer of the plates used, the formulas being found in each package of plates.
It is best, also, to use a plain fixing bath, which must be fresh and kept as cool as possible in hot weather.
The lantern-slide film that is new on the market can be handled in the same manner as the gla.s.s-plate slide, except that the binding is different. The results are the same and the slides are not so bulky to handle. Being unbreakable, they are much used by travelers. The manner of binding them for use in a lantern is described on the circular enclosed with the film.
[Ill.u.s.tration: The Camera as It is Arranged in Front of the Window for Reducing the Size of a Picture, and the Method of Binding the Slides]
When the negative is larger than the lantern-slide plate, and it is desirable to reduce the entire view upon the slide, a little extra work will be necessary. Select a room with one window, if possible, and fit a light-proof frame into it to keep out all light with the exception of a hole in which to place the negative, as shown in Fig. 1. Unless this hole is on a line with the sky it will be necessary to place a sheet of white cardboard at an angle of 45 deg. on the outside of the frame to reflect the light through the negative as shown in Fig. 2. Make or secure an inside kit to place in the plate holder of your camera to hold the lantern slide plate as shown in Fig. 3. Draw lines with a pencil, outlining on the ground gla.s.s of the camera the size of the lantern slide plate, and in the place where the plate will be in the plate holder when placed in position in the camera. This will enable you to focus to the proper size. Place the camera in front of the hole in the frame, place the negative in the hole and focus the camera for the lantern slide size. Expose with a medium stop for about 20 seconds and treat the plate the same as with the contact exposure.
When dry the lantern slide plate may be tinted any color by means of liquid colors. These can be purchased from any photo material store. In coloring the slide plate it is only necessary to moisten the gelatine film from time to time with a piece of cloth dampened in water. The colors may then be spread evenly with a soft brush, which should be kept in motion to prevent spots.
The slide is put together by placing a mat made of black paper, as shown in Fig. 4, on the gelatine side of the lantern slide, A, Fig. 5, and then a plain gla.s.s, B, over the mat, C, and the three bound together with pa.s.separtout tape, D. Contrasty negatives make the best slides, but the lantern slide plate should be made without any attempt to gain density.
** HOW TO MAKE A PORCH SWING CHAIR [128]
The material needed for making this porch swing chair are two pieces of round wood 2-1/2 in. in diameter and 20 in. long, and two pieces 1-1/4 in. in diameter and 40 in. long. These longer pieces can be made square, but for appearance it is best to have them round or square with the corners rounded. A piece of canvas, or other stout cloth, 16 in. wide and 50 in. long, is to be used for the seat. The two short pieces of wood are used for the ends of the chair and two 1-in. holes are bored in each end of them 1-1/2 in. from the ends, and between the holes and the ends grooves are cut around them to make a place to fasten ropes, as shown at B, Fig. 1. The two longer pieces are used for the sides and a tenon is cut on each end of them to fit in the 1-in. holes bored in the end pieces, as shown at A, Fig. 1. The canvas is now tacked on the end pieces and the pieces given one turn before placing the mortising together.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Swing Chair]
The chair is now hung up to the porch ceiling with ropes attached to a large screw eye or hook. The end of the chair to be used for the lower part is held about 16 in. from the floor with ropes direct from the grooves in the end pieces to the hook. The upper end is supported by using a rope in the form of a loop or bail, as shown in Fig. 2. The middle of the loop or bail should be about 15 in. from the end piece of the chair. Another rope is attached to the loop and through the hook and to a slide as shown. This will allow for adjustment to make the device into a chair or a hammock.
--Contributed by Earl R. Hastings, Corinth, Vt.
** How to Find the Blind Spot in the Eye [129]
Make a small black circular dot 1/2 in. in diameter on a piece of cardboard and about 3 in. from the center of this dot draw a star.
Hold the cardboard so that the star will be directly in front of one eye, while the dot will be in front of the other. If the star is in front of the left eye, close the right eye and look steadily at the star while you move the cardboard until the point is reached where the dot disappears. This will prove the presence of a blind spot in a person"s eye. The other eye can be given the same experiment by turning the cardboard end for end. The blind spot does not indicate diseased eyes, but it simply marks the point where the optic nerve enters the eyeball, which point is not provided with the necessary visual end organs of the sight, known as rods and cones.
** Beeswax Subst.i.tute [129]
A wax from the rafie palm of Madagascar is being used as a subst.i.tute for beeswax.
** Home-Made Water Wheel Does Family Washing [129]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Water Wheel]
The accompanying sketch ill.u.s.trates a very ingenious device which does the family washing, as well as to operate other household machines. A disk 1 in. in thickness and 10 in. in diameter was cut from a piece of rough board, and on its circ.u.mference were nailed a number of cup-shaped pieces cut from old tin cans. A hole was then bored through the center of the disk and an old piece of iron rod was driven through to form a shaft. Two holes were then bored opposite each other through the sides of a wooden box in which the disk was placed, allowing the shaft to project through the holes.
A small grooved wooden pulley was driven tightly on one of the projecting ends of the shaft. The top of the box was then tightly closed and a hole, large enough to admit the nozzle of a garden hose, was bored so that the jet of water would flow upon the tin buckets that were nailed to the circ.u.mference of the wheel or disk. Another hole was bored in the bottom of the box large enough to allow the waste water to run away freely. A belt, made from an ordinary sash cord, was run from the small pulley on the waterwheel to a large pulley, as shown in Fig. 1. A pitman was attached to the large pulley, which operates the washing machine by its reciprocating motion, and the length of the stroke is adjusted by moving the position of the hinge joint on the arm of the washing machine, as shown in Fig. 2. The pressure at the nozzle is about 20 lb. per square inch, and is sufficient to drive the waterwheel under all ordinary circ.u.mstances.
--Contributed by P. J. O"Gara, Auburn, Cal,
** An Optical Illusion [130]
When looking at the accompanying sketch you will say that the letters are alternately inclined to the right and left. They are not so and can be proved by measuring the distance of the top and bottom of any vertical strokes from the edge of the entire block.
They will be found to be exactly the same distance. Or take any of the horizontal strokes of the four letters and see how far their extremities are from the top and bottom of the entire block. It will be found that a line joining the extremities of the strokes are strictly parallel to the top or bottom and that they are not on a slant at all. It is the slant of the numerous short lines that go to make up the letter as a whole that deceives the eye.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Illusion]
** Home-Made Micrometer [130]
It often becomes necessary to find the thickness of material so thin, or inconvenient to measure, that a rule or other measuring device will not serve the purpose. A simple, fairly accurate, and easily made apparatus of the micrometer form may be constructed as shown by the accompanying sketch. Secure a common iron or bra.s.s bolt about 1/4-in. in diameter and about 2-1/2 in. long, with as fine a thread as possible, and the thread cut to within a short distance of the head of the bolt. The head of the bolts should have a slot cut for the use of a screwdriver. Clamp together two blocks of wood with square corners which are about 1 in. wide, 3/4 in. thick and 2-1/2 in. long and fasten them together with small pieces nailed across the ends. The width of the blocks will then be about 2 in. Bore a 1/4-in. hole through the center of the blocks in the 2 in. direction. Remove the clamp and set the nut into one of the blocks, so that the hole will be continuous with the hole in the wood. Cut out a piece from the block combination, leaving it shaped like a bench, and glue the bottoms of the legs to a piece of thin board about 2-1/2 in. square for a support.
Solder one end of a stiff wire that is about 2 in. long to the head of the bolt at right angles to the shaft, and fix a disc of heavy pasteboard with a radius equal to the length of the wire, and with its circ.u.mference graduated into equal s.p.a.ces, to serve in measuring revolutions of the end of the wire, to the top of the bench. Put the bolt in the hole, s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g it through the nut,
[Ill.u.s.tration: Micrometer]
and the construction is complete. The base is improved for the measuring work by fastening a small piece of wood on the board between the legs of the bench. A small piece of metal is glued on this piece of wood at the point where the bolt meets it.
Find the number of threads of the screw to the inch by placing the bolt on a measuring rule, and counting the threads in an inch of its length. The bolt in making one revolution will descend a distance equal to the distance between the threads.
The device is used by placing the object whose thickness is to be measured on the base under the bolt, and s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g the bolt down until its end just touches the object, then removing the object, and s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g the bolt down until its end just touches the base, carefully noting while doing so the distance that the end of the wire moves over the scale. The part of a rotation of the bolt, or the number of rotations with any additional parts of a rotation added, divided by the number of threads to the inch, will be the thickness of the object. Quite accurate measurements may be made with this instrument, says the Scientific American, and in the absence of the expensive micrometer, it serves a very useful purpose.
** Another Electric Lamp Experiment [131]
Break a portion of the end off from a 16-cp. globe that has been thrown away as useless. Shake the globe until all the filament is broken away, leaving only the ends of the platinum wire exposed.
Screw the globe into a socket that sets upright and fill it with salt water. Make one connection to the socket from the positive wire of a 110 volt circuit and the other to a ground. When the current is turned on small stars will be seen in the globe, which show up fine at night.
--Contributed by Lindsay McMillan, Santa Maria, Oal.
** Removing Ink Stains [131]
Two or three applications of milk which are wiped up with a dry cloth will remove india ink spots on carpets.
** Feat of Balancing on Chairs [131]
[Ill.u.s.tration: For Boys Balanacing]
Among the numerous physical exercises is the feat of balancing on the two rear legs of a chair while one foot rests on the front part of the seat and the other on the back of the chair. This may appear to be a hard thing to do, yet with a little practice it may be accomplished. This exercise is one of many practiced by the boys of a boys" home for an annual display given by them. A dozen of the boys will mount chairs at the same time and keep them in balance at the word of a commanding officer.