** A Floating Compa.s.s Needle [160]
When a thoroughly dry and clean sewing needle is carefully placed on the surface of water the needle will float even if the density of steel is 7 or 8 times that of water. A sewing needle thus floating upon water may be used as a compa.s.s, if it has previously been magnetized. The needle will then point north and south, and will maintain this position if the containing vessel is moved about; if the needle is displaced by force it will return to its position along the magnetic meridian as soon as the restraint is removed.
** Home-Made Dog Cart [160]
The accompanying photograph shows a boy with his "dogmobile." The photograph was taken when they were on a new pavement which had 2 in. of sand
Dog-Power Cart
left by the pavers and a grade of 6 per cent. The machine is nothing more than a boy"s rubber-tired wagon on which are mounted a box for a seat and a wheel steering device extending above and below the board of the wagon. The front wheels are guided by ropes attached from each end of the axle and a few turns around the lower end of the steering rod. A pair of shafts are attached to the rear, into which the dog is harnessed.
** How to Make a Dry Battery Cell [160]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Dry Battery Cell]
Dry battery cells are composed of the same materials for the poles, but instead of the liquid commonly used a paste is formed by mixing sal ammoniac and other salts with water and packed in the cell so it cannot spill.
A cell of this kind can easily be made, and to make it the proper size a sheet of zinc 8-1/2 in. long and 6 in. wide will be required. This zinc is rolled into a cylinder 2-1/2-in. in diameter. This will allow for a lap of 5/8 in., which is tightly soldered only on the outside of the seam. Close one end of the cylinder by soldering a disk of zinc over it, making a watertight receptacle. All soldering should be done on the outside and none of the solder allowed to run on the inside of the seam. All seams on the inside should be painted with asphaltum in order to cover any particles of solder. Do not paint any surface, only the joints. Secure three carbon rods 1/2- in. in diameter and 6 in.
long which are copper plated. Carbons used in arc lamps will do.
File the rods to remove the copper plate, leaving about 1/2-in. of the plate at one end. Tie the three rods in a close bundle with the copper-plated ends together and make a contact with each rod by soldering a wire to the plated ends, allowing one end of the wire to project about 2 in. for a connection. The plated ends of the carbons should be covered with paraffin for about 1 in. This is done by immersing them in a dish of smoking hot melted paraffin until the pores are thoroughly saturated.
The salts for filling are 1/4 lb. zinc oxide, 1 lb. sal ammoniac, 3/4 lb. plaster of paris, 1/4 lb. chloride of zinc mixed into a paste by adding 1/2 pt. of water. Form a 1/2-in. layer of paste in the bottom of the cylinder and place the ends of the carbon rods on this with their plated ends up. Hold the rods in the center of the cylinder and put the paste in around the rods with a stick.
Pack the paste in, closely filling the cylinder to within 3/4 in.
of the top. This s.p.a.ce at the top is filled with a mixture of 1/2 lb. of rosin and 2 oz. beeswax melted together. This wax seals the cell and prevents any evaporation. Connection is made to the zinc by soldering a wire to the outside of the cylinder.
** How to Paraffin Wire [161]
The following description of how to make an apparatus with which to paraffin wire as needed makes clear a method of construction that is simple and easy to put together in a. short time.
Secure a pan to be used for this purpose only; one that will hold about 1 qt. The details of the construction are given in the diagram, in which P is the pan; B is a base of 1 in. pine; S is the spool of wire supported near one end of the base by nailing on standards H and H; F is a spool, with narrow f.l.a.n.g.es, supported near the bottom of the pan by the standards T and T. These may be made of two short pieces of a roller fitted into the holes bored in the base; A is a block of l-in. pine with a piece of leather tacked on one side. Four nails should be driven in the base just outside of the edge of the pan to keep it from sliding off the pan.
Bore a hole in the base between the two spools and pa.s.s the wire through this hole, under the spool in the paraffin, then through a small hole in the leather and a notch in the block A, and a notch between the base and the pan. Tie a string around the wire between the leather and the paraffin, making the knots so they will not pull through the hole in the leather. This makes the wire smooth, and by making the string tighter or looser you can regulate the thickness of the paraffin, says Electrician and Mechanic. Place the pan on the stove; when the paraffin is melted, pull out the wire as needed. To keep the pan from sliding place a flatiron or some other weight on it.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Home-Made Apparatus for Paraffining Wire]
** Uses of Peat [161]
Peat is used in Germany for bedding, fodder, filter, fuel and packing purposes.
** Scientific Explanation of a Toy [162]
In a recent Issue of Popular Mechanics an article on "The Turning Card Puzzle" was described and ill.u.s.trated. Outside of the scientific side involved herein I describe a much better trick.
About the time when the expression "skidoo" first began to be used I invented the following trick and called it "Skidoo" and "Skidee," which created much merriment. Unless the trick is thoroughly understood, for some it will turn one way, for others the opposite way, while for others it will not revolve at all. One person whom I now recall became red in the face by shouting skidoo and skidee at it, but the thing would not move at all, and he finally, from vexation, threw the trick into the fire and a new one had to be made. Very few can make it turn both ways at will, and therein is the trick.
Take a piece of hardwood 3/8-in. square and about 9 in. long. On one of the edges cut a series of notches as indicated in Fig 1.
Then slightly taper the end marked B until it is nicely rounded as shown in Fig. 2. Next make an arm of a two-arm windmill such as boys make. Make a hole through the center of this one arm. Enlarge the hole slightly, enough to allow a common pin to hold the arm to the end B and not interfere with the revolving arm. Two or three of these arms may have to be made before one is secured that is of the exact proportions to catch the vibrations right.
[Ill.u.s.tration: How to Cut the Notches]
To operate the trick, grip the stick firmly in one hand, and with the forward and backward motion of the other allow the first finger to slide along the top edge, the second finger along the side and the thumb nail will then vibrate along the notches, thus making the arm revolve in one direction. To make the arm revolve in the opposite direction--keep the hand moving all the time, so the observer will not detect the change which the band makes--allow the first finger to slide along the top, as in the other movement, the thumb and second finger changing places: e.
g., in the first movement you scratch the notches with the thumb nail while the hand is going from the body, and in the second movement you scratch the notches with the nail of the second finger when the hand is coming toward the body, thus producing two different vibrations. In order to make it work perfectly (?) you must of course say "skidoo" when you begin the first movement, and then, no matter how fast the little arm is revolving when changed to the second movement, you must say "skidee" and the arm will immediately stop and begin revolving in the opposite direction. By using the magic words the little arm will obey your commands instantly and your audience will be mystified. If any of your audience presume to dispute, or think they can do the same, let them try it. You will no doubt be accused of blowing or drawing in your breath, and many other things in order to make the arm operate. At least it is amusing. Try it and see.
--Contributed by Charles Clement Bradley, Toledo, Ohio.
The foregoing article describing the "Skidoo-Skidee Trick"
appeared in a recent issue of Popular Mechanics. I have been told that a similar arrangement is used by a tribe of Indians in the state of Washington, by the Hindoos in India, and one friend tells me that they were sold on the streets of our large cities many years ago.
This toy interested me so much that I have made an investigation into the causes of its action, and I think the results may be of interest.
To operate, one end of the notched stick is held firmly in the left hand, while with the right hand a nail or match stick is rubbed along the notched edge, at the same time pressing with the thumb or finger of the moving hand against the oblique face of the stick. The direction of rotation depends upon which face is pressed. A square stick with notches on edge is best, but the section may be circular or even irregular in shape. The experiments were as follows:
1. A rectangular stick had notches cut on one face. When the pressure was applied upon a face normal to the first, no rotation resulted. If the pressure was upon an edge, rotation was obtained.
2. Irregular s.p.a.cing of the notches did not interfere with the action. The depth of the notches was also unimportant, although it should be suited to the size of the nail for best results.
3. The hole in the revolving piece must be larger than the pin; if there is a close fit no rotation is obtained.
4. The center of gravity of the revolving piece must lie within the hole. If the hole is not well centered the trick cannot be performed.
5. If the stick be clamped in a vise no results are obtained; with this exception: if the stick has enough spring, and the end clamped is far enough away from the notched portion, the rotation may be obtained.
The above experiments led me to the conclusion that the operation of the device is dependent upon a circular motion of the pin, and this was confirmed by the following experiments. The action is somewhat similar to swinging the toy known as a locust around with a slight circular motion of the hand, It is necessary to show here that a slight circular motion is sufficient to produce the result and, secondly, that such motion can be produced by the given movements of the hands.
6. A piece of bra.s.s rod was clamped in the chuck of a lathe, and a depression made in the end slightly eccentric, by means of a center punch. If the end of the pin is inserted in this depression,
[Ill.u.s.tration: The Lathe Experiment]
while the hand holding the other end of the stick is kept as nearly as possible in the axis of the lathe, rotation of the lathe will produce rotation of the revolving piece. Speeds between 700 and 1,100 r. p. m. gave the best results.
7. A tiny mirror was attached to the end of the pin, and the hand held in the sunlight so that a spot of sunlight was reflected upon the wall. The notches were then rubbed in the usual way. The spot of light upon the wall moved in a way which disclosed two components of motion, one circular and one due to the irregular movements of the hand holding the stick. Usually the orbit was too irregular to show a continuous and closed circular path, but at times the circular motion became very p.r.o.nounced. It was observed and the direction of rotation correctly stated by a man who was unaware of the source of the motion. The production of the circular motion can be explained in this way:
When the rubbing nail comes to a notch the release of pressure sends the stick upward; this upward motion against the oblique pressure upon the (say) right hand side gives also a lateral component of motion towards the left. As the nail strikes the opposite side of the notch the stick is knocked down again, this motion relieves somewhat the oblique pressure from the right hand side, and, the reaction from the holding (left) hand moves the stick to the right slightly, so that it is back in the old position for the next upward motion. Thus a circular or elliptic motion is repeated for each notch, and the direction of this motion is the same whether the nail be rubbed forward or back. For oblique side pressure from the right (notches a.s.sumed upward), the motion of the stick and hence of the revolving piece will be counter-clockwise; if the pressure is from the left, it will be clockwise.
That the motion of the revolving piece is due to a swinging action, and not to friction of the pin in the hole, is proved by experiments 3 and 4.