Dash of cayenne or paprica.

Put the b.u.t.ter in a saucepan; when it has melted add the lobster meat, the chopped truffle, the salt, and the pepper; cover and let simmer for five minutes; then add the wine, and cook three minutes longer.

Have ready two yolks and one cupful of cream well beaten together; add this to the lobster, shake the saucepan until the mixture is thickened, and serve immediately. This dish will not keep without curdling, and should not be put together until just in time to serve. The lobster may be prepared and kept hot. The rest of the cooking, from the time the wine goes in, requires but five minutes, so the time can be easily calculated. If the mixture is stirred the meat will be broken; shaking the pan mixes it sufficiently. This is a very good dish, and easily prepared; but it will not be right unless served as soon as it is cooked. The quant.i.ty given is enough for six people. Crab meat may be used in the same way.

=LOBSTER STEW=

Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter and one teaspoonful of chopped onion. Before it takes color add one tablespoonful of flour, and cook, but not brown. Then add slowly one cupful of water in which the lobster was boiled, one cupful of milk, and one cupful of good stock.

Add the lobster meat, and when it has become thoroughly hot remove the meat and place it on the dish on which it is to be served, arranging it in the shape of a lobster as far as possible. Cut the tail-piece into thick slices, without changing its position. Season the sauce with salt, pepper and cayenne, and pour it over the meat. Place around the edges triangular croutons, and garnish with head, small claws, and tail.

=LOBSTER FILLING FOR PATTIES=

1 cupful of lobster meat cut into dice.

1 tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter.

1 tablespoonful of flour.

1 cupful of milk.

1 teaspoonful of salt.

1/4 teaspoonful of pepper.

Dash of cayenne.

2 yolks.

Put the b.u.t.ter into a saucepan; when melted add the flour, and cook a few minutes, but not brown; add slowly the milk or cream, and stir until perfectly smooth. To this white sauce add the two yolks beaten, and stir them in off the fire; then add the meat, season, and replace on the fire until sufficiently thickened. Mix carefully with a wooden spoon, so as not to break the meat. The filling should be very creamy. The salpicon given below may be used for filling, if preferred.

=SALPICON OF LOBSTER=

1 tablespoonful of lobster meat cut into dice.

6 mushrooms.

1 truffle.

1 tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter.

1 teaspoonful of flour.

1/4 cupful of white stock.

1/4 cupful of cream.

Salt and cayenne.

Put one level tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter into a saucepan, and when melted add one level tablespoonful of flour; cook, but not brown; add slowly the stock, and stir until perfectly smooth; then add the cream; after it begins to thicken add the lobster meat, the chopped truffle, and the mushrooms cut into dice. Season highly with salt and cayenne or paprica.

Let simmer for five minutes. This must be creamy, but not too soft. It can be served as filling for patties or potato croustades, or may be served in paper boxes. This amount makes about a cupful of salpicon, which is enough for six patties.

=CRABS=

Crabs are in season during the months of May, June, July, and August.

They may be had at other times, but are then light and stringy.

Soft-sh.e.l.l crabs are best in July and August. Like lobsters, crabs must be bought while alive, and boiled in the same way. Put them head first into hot water. After five minutes add one tablespoonful of salt, and boil for thirty minutes.

When cold remove the sh.e.l.ls, the stomach, which is just under the head, the gills, and the intestine. Take out the meat carefully.

=DEVILED CRABS=

12 crabs.

1 cupful of cream or milk.

1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of b.u.t.ter.

1 tablespoonful of flour.

1 tablespoonful chopped parsley.

1 teaspoonful salt.

1/2 teaspoonful paprica or dash of cayenne.

1/2 teaspoonful of lemon juice.

Yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs.

To obtain enough meat to fill nine sh.e.l.ls, use twelve crabs. After they are boiled remove the meat with care, breaking it as little as possible.

Put into a double boiler the cream; when it is scalded add to it the flour and b.u.t.ter, which have been rubbed together; stir until smooth and thickened; then add the mashed yolks, the seasoning, and the crab meat.

Mix well together, and taste to see if more seasoning is needed. Deviled crabs need to be highly seasoned. A little mustard may be used, if desired. Have the sh.e.l.ls carefully washed and dried, and fill them with the mixture, rounding it well on top, and pressing it close to the edges of the sh.e.l.ls, so that in frying none of the fat may enter. Smooth the top, and let stand until cold. Beat one egg with one tablespoonful of water, and, holding a sh.e.l.l over this, baste it with the egg, letting it run over the whole top, including the sh.e.l.l; then sprinkle with white bread crumbs. Put two at a time into a frying-basket, and immerse in very hot fat. It will take but a minute to color them. They may be browned in the oven, if preferred, in which case the egging is omitted, and a few pieces of b.u.t.ter are placed on top of the crumbs.

=STUFFED CRABS WITH MUSHROOMS=

Meat of 6 crabs.

Mushrooms cut into dice the same quant.i.ty as of the crab meat.

1 cupful of cream or milk.

1 slice of onion.

1 tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter.

1 tablespoonful of flour.

1 teaspoonful of salt.

1/2 teaspoonful of paprica, or dash of cayenne.

1/2 teaspoonful of lemon juice.

Yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs.

Put into a saucepan one tablespoonful of b.u.t.ter, and one slice of onion chopped fine; before it becomes brown, add one tablespoonful of flour; cook, but not brown; and add slowly one cupful of milk or cream. Stir until smooth and thickened; then add the mashed yolks, the seasoning, the crab meat, and the chopped mushrooms. This mixture should not be very soft. Fill the sh.e.l.ls with it, and finish the same as deviled crabs.

=SOFT-Sh.e.l.l CRABS=

Wash the crabs carefully; lift up the flap, and remove the sand-bag (stomach), gills, and intestine; dry them well, and dredge with salt and pepper. Roll in flour, and saute them in b.u.t.ter. Have a generous amount of b.u.t.ter in the frying-pan, and saute them on both sides; when done place them on a hot dish. To the b.u.t.ter in the frying-pan add a little lemon juice. Strain this over the crabs, and sprinkle them with parsley chopped very fine.

Soft-sh.e.l.l crabs may also be fried, in which case they are first dipped in milk, then covered with fine bread-crumbs, and immersed in hot fat.

They may also be broiled over a slow fire, and when done covered with maitre d"hotel sauce. The preferable way of cooking them is by the method first given.

=OYSTER-CRABS=

After they are carefully washed and dried, dip them in milk, then roll them in flour, and fry them for one minute in hot fat.

Serve them on a hot napkin with quarters of lemon, or they may be served in fontage cups, or in paper boxes, or in sh.e.l.ls. (See also oyster-crabs, page 310.)

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