XXII
It was like finding an old friend to see Mr. van Buren waiting to meet us at quaint little Volendam. He explained that Freule Menela had gone to Brussels to pay a visit; so, hearing from me when we would arrive, he ran out to inquire how his cousin was getting on. When his fiancee came back, he said, he would bring her and his sisters to see us.
Our first sight of Volendam was at sunset. Everything seemed so beautiful, and I felt so happy walking up to the hotel where we were to spend the night, that I should have liked to sing. Great clouds had boiled up out of the west; but underneath, a wonderful, almost supernatural light streamed over the sea. The sky was indigo, and the water a sullen lead color; but along the horizon blazed a belt of gold, and the sails on a fleet of fishing-boats were scarlet, like a bed of red geraniums blooming in the sea.
It was in this strange light that we walked from the harbor up the main street of the village, which is a long d.y.k.e of black Norwegian granite, protecting little pointed-roofed houses, the lower stories of a sober color, the upper ones with the peaked gables pea-green or blue, and the sabots of the family lying on the door-steps. Here and there in a window were a few bits of gaudy china for sale, or a sabot over a door as the sign of a shoe-shop; but we hardly looked at the houses, so interesting were their inmates, who seemed to be all in the street.
Along the d.y.k.e squatted a double row of men, old and young--mostly old; but all as brown as if they had been carved out of oak. Every one had a tight-fitting jersey and enormously baggy trousers, like those other men round the corner of the Zuider Zee at Marken. But at Marken the jerseys were dark and here of the most wonderful crimson; the new ones the shade of a Jacqueminot rose, the faded ones like the lovely roses which Nell calls "American beauties."
There they sat, tailor-fashion, with their legs crossed and their cloth or fur caps tilted over their eyes as they smoked (very handsome, bold eyes, some of them!) and, pa.s.sing up and down, up and down in front of the row as if in review, with a musical clatter of sabots, bands of women, lovely girls, and charming little b.u.t.tons of children.
Nell and I admired the costumes more than at Marken, though they"re not as striking, only innocently pretty. But I can"t imagine anything more becoming than the transparent white caps that fold back and flare out over the ears like a soaring bird"s wings. Perhaps it was partly the effect of the light, but the young girls in their straight dark bodices, with flowered handkerchief-chemisettes, full blue skirts--pieced with pale-tinted stuff from waist to hips--and those flying, winged caps, looked angelic.
They walked with their arms round each other"s waists, or else they knitted with gleaming needles. Quite toddling creatures had blue yokes over their shoulders, and carried splashing pails of water as big as themselves, or they had round tots of babies tucked under their arms.
But whatever they were doing--men, women, girls, boys, and babies--all stopped doing it instantly when they spied Tibe. I don"t believe they knew he was a dog; and though he has invariably had a _succes fou_ wherever we have been, I never saw people so mad about him as at Volendam.
The Jonkheer says there are nearly three thousand inhabitants, and half of them were after Tibe on the d.y.k.e as we walked toward the hotel. The news of him seemed to fly, as they say tidings travel through the Indian bazaars. Faces appeared in windows; then quaint figures popped out of doors, and Tibe was actually mobbed. A procession trailed after him, shouting, laughing, calling.
Tibe was flattered at first, and preened himself for admiration; but presently he became worried, then disgusted, and ran before the storm of voices and wooden shoes. We were all glad to get him into the hotel.
Such a quaint hotel, with incredibly neat, box-like rooms, whose varnished, green wooden walls you could use for mirrors. I didn"t know that it was famous, but it seems that it is; also the landlord and his many daughters. Every artist who has ever come to Volendam has painted a picture for the big room which you enter as you walk in from the street, and I saw half a dozen which I should love to own.
It was fun dining out-of-doors on a big, covered balcony looking over the Zuider Zee, and seeing the horizon populous with fishing-boats. In the falling dusk they looked like the flitting figures of tall, graceful ladies moving together hand in hand, with flowing skirts; some in gossiping knots, others hovering proudly apart in pairs like princesses.
It is wonderful how our chaperon makes friends with people, and gets them to do as she likes. If she were young and pretty it wouldn"t be strange--at least, where men are concerned; but though her complexion (what one can see of it) looks fresh, if pale, and she has no hollows or wrinkles, her hair is gray, and she wears blue spectacles, with only a bit of face really visible. One hardly knows what she does look like.
Nevertheless, the men of our party are her slaves; and it is the same at hotels. If at first landlords say Tibe can"t live in the house, the next minute, when she has wheedled a little, they are patting his head, calling him "good dog," and telling his mistress that they will make an exception in his case.
The morning after we arrived in Volendam I got up early, because Mr. van Buren offered to show me the place if I cared to take a walk. It was only half-past eight when we strolled out of the hotel, and the first person I met was Lady MacNairne. She had been walking, and was on her way back, looking like the Old Woman in the Shoe, surrounded by children of all sizes. She had made friends with them, and taken their photographs, and their grown-up sisters had told her lots of things about Volendam.
She had found out that as soon as the fisherfolk"s sons begin to dress like boys, they are given their buckles and neck-b.u.t.tons: the gold or silver k.n.o.bs which are different for each fishing-village of Holland; so that, if a man is found drowned, you can tell where he comes from by his b.u.t.tons.
She had learned that the trousers are baggy, because in storms the men don"t get as wet as in tight ones. That the women wear eight petticoats, not only because it"s "the mode," but because it"s considered beautiful for a girl to look stout; and besides, it"s not thought modest to show how you are shaped.
Another thing she learned was that, just as the boys must have their buckles and b.u.t.tons (and ear-rings, if they can get them), each Volendam girl, if she wishes to be anybody, must have a coral necklace with a gold cross; several silver rings; a silver buckle for her purse; and a scent-bottle with a silver top and foot. No girl could hope to marry well, Lady MacNairne said, without these things; and as the ones who told her had no rings or scent-bottles in their collections, she would get her nephew to buy them. It wouldn"t do for him to make the presents himself, as the girls were proud, though their fathers earned only five gulden a week; but she would give them, and then it would be all right.
One of the girls was unhappy, as she was in love with a young fisherman, and they were too poor to marry, so she expected to go to Rotterdam as a nursemaid.
"It seems," said Lady MacNairne, "that Volendam girls are in demand all over Holland, as nurses; they"re so good to children and animals. But this one won"t have to go, for dear Ronny must supply her _dot_."
"Have you asked him?" I inquired.
She laughed. "No," said she. "He"ll do it, though, to please me, I know."
These things were not all she had found out. She knew that Volendam had first been made famous twenty or thirty years ago by an artist named Clausen, who came by accident and went away to tell all his friends. She knew how the Hotel Spaander had been started to please the artists, and how it had grown year by year; and all the things that people told her she had written in a note-book which she wears dangling from a chatelaine. It does seem odd for a Scotswoman, and one of her rank, to be so keen about every detail of travel, that she must scribble it down in a book, in a frantic hurry. But then, many things about Lady MacNairne _are_ odd.
The sun was blazing that morning, but a wind had come up in the night, and beaten the waves into froth. The dark sea-line stretched unevenly along the horizon, and there were no fishing-boats to be seen. All were snugly nestled in harbor, with their gay pennants just visible over the pointed roofs of the houses; and we had an exciting breakfast on the balcony, because, though it wasn"t cold, the tablecloths and napkins flapped wildly in the wind, like big white rings of frightened swans.
Jonkheer Brederode had planned to go northward, skirting the coast to see two more Dead Cities of the Zuider Zee, Hoorn and Enkhuisen, and cut across the sea to Stavoren on the other side, to enter the Frisian Meers. But now he refused to take us that way. The men might go, if they liked, he said, and there really wasn"t much danger; but in such rough weather he couldn"t allow women to run the risk in "Lorelei."
"But it wouldn"t be in "Lorelei," Lady MacNairne put in. "Lorelei" has ceased to exist."
Nell grew pink and I think I grew pale. It was an awful shock to hear her speak so calmly about the loss of our dear boat, of which we have grown so fond.
"Ceased to exist!" I repeated, cold all over. "Has she _gone under_?"
"Only under a coat of paint," said Mr. Starr, hurriedly. "You know, Miss Van Buren consented to humor my aunt, who thought the name unlucky, by rechristening the boat "Mascotte," so I did it myself, this morning, the first thing, before there were many people about to get in my way."
"I"d forgotten," said Nell. "But if she"s "Mascotte" now, isn"t that a sign she could take us safely through the sea? They"re only miniature waves."
"You wouldn"t think so if you were in their midst in a motor-boat," said the Jonkheer.
"I"m ready to try," Nell answered.
"But I"m not ready to let you," he said, with one of his nice smiles.
However, this didn"t conciliate Nell. In an instant she bristled up, as she used to with him, before Amsterdam.
"It"s my boat," she said.
"But I"m the boat"s skipper. The skipper must act according to his judgment. Joking apart though----"
"I"m _not_ joking. If men can go, why can"t women? We"re not afraid. It would be fun."
"Not for the men, if they had women to think of. You see, the boat is top-heavy, owing to the cabin superstructure, and it wouldn"t be impossible for her to turn turtle in a heavy sea. Besides, rough waves might break the cabin windows, and if she began to take in water in that way, we should be done, for no bailing could help us. Do you still want to make the trip, Miss Van Buren?"
"I do," Nell insisted. "Because I don"t believe those things will happen."
"Neither do I, or I shouldn"t care to risk your boat. But there"s a chance."
"I shouldn"t dream of venturing," said Lady MacNairne, "and I"m sure Phyllis wouldn"t go without her chaperon, would you, dear?"
"No," I answered; and that mercifully settled it for Nell, as she couldn"t take a trip alone with the men.
"In any case, it"s pleasanter to drive from here to Hoorn and Enkhuisen," went on the Jonkheer, "and the only real reason for sticking to the boat even in fine weather would have been that you came to "do"
Holland in a motor-boat, and wanted to be true to your principles. The coast is flat and low, and you"d have seen nothing except a line of land which would have looked uninteresting across the water, whereas in my car----"
"But your car isn"t here," objected Nell.
"It may be, any minute now. I"ve been expecting it for the last hour. I wasn"t trusting entirely to luck, when we came; and my chauffeur had orders to hold himself in readiness for a telegram. Last night, as soon as I saw the wind getting up, I wired him in Amsterdam, where he was waiting, to start as soon as it was light."
"You"re a wonderful fellow," said Mr. van Buren, and I complimented him too; but Nell didn"t speak.
A few minutes later we heard the whirr of a motor, and the buzz of excited voices. We had just finished breakfast, so we rushed from the balcony at the back of the house, through the big room of the pictures, to the front door; and there was Jonkheer Brederode"s car (on the d.y.k.e, which is the only road), with the smart little chauffeur smiling and touching his cap to his master, amid a swarm of girls and boys.
By-and-by it was decided that only Jonkheer Brederode and Hendrik (with Toon on the barge) should test the motor-boat"s seaworthy qualities, while Mr. van Buren and Mr. Starr stopped with us. This was the Jonkheer"s idea. He would prefer it, he said, as the fewer there were on "Lorelei"--alias "Mascotte"--the better. And Mr. van Buren ought to be with us, to tell us about places.