In spite of this fact I had little time to spare, though it appeared that _en route_ to the boat a delay was caused by Tibe jumping into a cab with two elderly ladies from Boston, who, so far from reciprocating his overtures, nearly swooned with terror, and had to be soothed and sustained by the entire party.
The ca.n.a.l that leads from Leiden to Katwyk-aan-Zee pa.s.ses the houses of Descartes and Spinoza; and altogether the short journey by water did not lack interest, for Katwyk has become a colony of artists. Once there, we walked to the sluice where the Rhine seeks its grave in the North Sea; and as it happened that the tide was high, with a strong sh.o.r.e wind, I could show the Cyclopean defenses of our coast at their best. With the secret pleasure which I believe all men take in pointing out things to women, I explained the great series of gates through which the river pa.s.ses to its death. All were closed against the raging waves, which leaped and bellowed, demanding entrance, rearing their fierce heads twelve feet or more above the level where the Rhine lay dying. When the tide should turn, and the wild water retreat, the sluice-gates would be opened, and the river would pour sea-ward, sweeping away the ma.s.ses of sand piled up in fury by the cheated waves.
We lunched on board the "Lorelei," I munching abjectly on deck, on duty at the wheel, while from the cabin below came to my ears the tinkling of girls" laughter, and the merry popping of corks. In theory I was better off than Tantalus, for Tantalus had no beer or sandwiches; but, on the other hand Tantalus was not in love with a girl whose voice he could hear mingling with his rival"s; so practically there was not much to choose.
Luckily I had not to bear the strain for long. I did my best yesterday, in talking of Haarlem, to awaken interest in the huge Haarlemmer-meer Polder, and its importance in the modern scheme of the Netherlands. Now my eloquence was rewarded, for they hurried through their luncheon, not that they might cheer the skipper"s loneliness, but that they might miss no feature in the landscape.
We were skirting one side of the green plain which has been reclaimed from the water, converting the meer into a "polder." Our ca.n.a.l flowed many feet above the level of the surrounding land, so that we looked down upon men tilling, upon white-sailed boats cutting through miniature waterways as if they navigated meadows, and upon cows grazing knee-deep in mist, which rose like blowing silver spray, over the pale-green waves of gra.s.s.
These black-and-white cattle, according to Miss Van Buren, form the upper circles of the cow-world in Holland. Not only do they live up to their traditions by being cleaner and sleeker than the cows of other countries, but they know themselves to be better connected than the mere red-and-white creatures with whom they are occasionally forced to share a meadow. To show that they understand what is due to their dignity, they refuse to talk with the common herd, and stand with their backs to any red-and-white nonent.i.ty that may presume to graze near, conversing among themselves in refined monotones with the air of saying, "Who _was_ she?"
There"s little in the history of the Netherlands which Miss Van Buren does not know, for she is proud of her Dutch blood, though she won"t say so before me. The others are frankly ignorant; but the Chaperon has read a book of Rider Haggard"s called "Lysbeth," and was deeply interested in the Haarlemmer-meer, where the "treasure" of that story lay hid; but it was news to her that the great inland sea had once sent a destructive flood to the gates of Amsterdam, and that as punishment it had been drained away. Miss Van Buren--whom I think of as "Nell"--knew all this, including the very day in 1840 when the work was begun, and how many months the pumps had taken to drink the monstrous cup dry; but the mysterious little lady who rules us all, and is ruled by Tibe, expected to find the Haarlemmer-meer still a lake, and was disappointed to learn the meaning of "polder." She thought thirty-nine months too long for draining it, and was sure that in America (where she quickly added that she had "once been") they would have done the work in half the time.
Every one fell in love with the outskirts of Haarlem, as "Lorelei" swam into the River Spaarne. Though the glory of the tulips was extinguished (like fairy-lamps at dawn) three months ago, the flowers of summer blazed in their stead, a brilliant mosaic of jewels.
"The Dutch don"t seem a nation to have gone mad over a tulip; but perhaps they were different in the seventeenth century," said Miss Rivers, looking at me, as if I stood to represent my people.
"And the English don"t seem the kind to have lost their heads over a South Sea Bubble, but they did," retorted Nell, as if she were defending us.
They liked the houses along the river-side, houses big and little, which look as if the front and back walls of their lower stories had been knocked out, and the s.p.a.ce filled in with gla.s.s. They were amused by the rounded awnings over the balconies, which Nell likened to the covers of giant babies" perambulators; and they laughed at the black-painted doors picked out with lines of pale green, which contrasted with a whitewashed facade.
At Haarlem I had another surprise for them, which I arranged before leaving Rotterdam. It was one which would cost nothing in trouble, little enough in money, and would give pleasure to everybody--except to my chauffeur, who is in love with my mother"s French maid, and no doubt was reveling in the thought of a long holiday at Liliendaal.
When I"d brought "Lorelei" through the bridge, and hove her to by the broad quay, there stood close at hand a handsome, dark-blue motor-car.
"What a beauty!" exclaimed Nell. "That"s much grander than Robert"s."
Then she glanced at me. "I beg your pardon," said she, demurely. "I"m afraid the car my cousin has is yours."
"So is this," said I.
"Dear me, what is It doing here?" she demanded, sorry to have praised a possession of the enemy"s.
"It"s waiting to take you round Haarlem," I replied. "I thought it would be a nice way for you to see the place, as the suburbs are its speciality, so to speak, and motoring saves time."
"You"re a queer chap, Alb," remarked the Mariner. "You have such a way of keeping things up your sleeve, and springing them on one. You ought to be called "William the Silent.""
"Why, that"s what he is called, didn"t you know? Mr. van Buren told us,"
exclaimed Phyllis, and ended up her sentence with a stifled shriek which could have meant nothing but a surrept.i.tious pinch.
I would not have glanced at either of the girls for anything; but I would have given something to know how Nell was looking.
"Have you any more belongings here?" asked the Chaperon, gaily. "Such as an ancestral castle, where you could give us another surprise feast?"
I laughed. "As a matter of fact, I have an ancestral castle in the neighborhood. It isn"t mine, but it was my ancestors", and if I can"t exactly entertain you in it, I can give you tea close by at a country inn. Perhaps you"ve read about the Chateau of Brederode, within a drive of Haarlem?"
I saw by Nell"s face that she had, but she was the only one who did not answer, and the others hadn"t informed themselves of its existence.
Hendrik, helped by my chauffeur, got out the small luggage which is kept ready for sh.o.r.e duty--the Chaperon"s splendidly-fitted dressing-bag making everything else look shabby--and the five of us (six with Tibe) got into the car, I taking the driver"s seat.
The streets of Haarlem being too good to slight, I drove leisurely toward the heart of the old town, meaning to engage rooms and leave all belongings at the quaint Hotel Funckler, which I thought they would like better than any other; but pa.s.sing the cathedral, Miss Phyllis begged to stop, and I slowed down the car. After Gouda"s wonderful gla.s.s, they would have found the Haarlem church disappointing, had it not been for the two or three redeeming features left in the cold, bare structure; the beautiful screen of open bra.s.s-work, with its base of dark wood, on which brightly-painted, mystic beasts disport themselves among the coats-of-arms of divers ancient towns; and the carved choir-stalls.
Nell and the Mariner were so fascinated by a wooden gentleman wearing his head upside down, and a curiously mixed animal carrying its offspring in a cloak, that I found time to send secretly for the organist; and before my friends knew what was happening, the cold white cathedral was warmed and lighted too, by such thrilling music as few organs and few organists can make.
When it was over, and only fleeting echoes left, Miss Rivers came and thanked me.
"That was your thought, of course," said she. "None of us will ever forget."
My chauffeur had kept Tibe, and when we reappeared, was surprised in the act of fitting a pair of spare goggles on to the dog. Aunt Fay was delighted with the effect, and a photograph was taken before we were allowed to start, though time was beginning to be an object. But, as the Chaperon cheerfully remarked, "Tibe and tide wait for no man."
"What does "groote oppruiming" mean, written up everywhere in the shops?" she inquired eagerly, as the car flashed through street after street.
I told her that in a Dutch town it was equivalent to the "summer sales"
in London, and she seemed satisfied, though I doubt if she knows more of London than of Rotterdam. But she and the girls wanted everything that they saw in the show windows, and I found that, before we left Haarlem, the Mariner"s purse would again be opened wide by the hypnotic spell of Aunt Fay.
In a thirty horse-power car we were not long on the way out to Brederode, though I took her slowly through the charming Bloemendaal district, giving the strangers plenty of time to admire the quaintly built, flower-draped country houses half drowned in the splendid forest where Druids worshiped once, and to find out for themselves that the dark yellow billows in the background were dunes hiding the sea.
We left the car in front of the shady inn, and ordered coffee to be ready when we should come back--coffee, with plenty of cream, and a kind of sugared cake, which has been loved by Haarlemers since the days when the poor, deluded ladies of the town baked their best dainties for the Spaniards who planned their murder.
It was natural to play guide on the way to the dear old copper and purple and green-gold ruin, ivy-curtained from the tower roofs to the mossy moat.
This was my first visit to the place for a year or two, and I longed to take the One Girl apart, to tell her of my fantastic ancestor, the Water Beggar, of whom I am proud despite his faults and eccentricities; to recall stories of the past; the origin of our name "Brede Rode," broad rood; how it, and the lands, were given as a reward, and many other things. But instead, I made myself agreeable to the Chaperon, and saved Tibe on three separate occasions from joining the bright reflections and the water-lilies in the pond.
I sat by Nell at a table afterwards, however, and she had to pour coffee for me, because she was doing that kind office for the rest; and as the sugar tongs had been forgotten, she popped me in a lump of sugar with her own fingers before she stopped to think. Then, she looked as if she would have liked to fish it out again, but, being softer than her heart, it had melted, and I got it in spite of her.
We drove back through the forest in a green, translucent glimmer, like light under the sea, and there was little time to dress for dinner when I brought them to anchor for the night. The nice old hotel, with its Delft plates half covering the walls, its alcoves and unexpected stairways with green bal.u.s.ters, and its old dining-room looking on a prim garden, pleased the eyes which find all things in Hollow Land interesting.
It was a long dinner, with many courses, such as Dutchmen love; still, when we finished, daylight lingered. In the fantastic square with its crowding varieties of capricious Dutch architecture, the cathedral was cut black and sharp out of a sky of beaten gold, and Coster"s statue wore a glittering halo. Under their archways of green, the ca.n.a.ls were on fire with sunset, their flames quenched in the thick moss which clothed their walls; the red-brown color of paved streets, and the houses with their pointed facades in many steps, burned also, as if they were made of rose-and-purple porphyry instead of common bricks, while each pane of each window blazed like a separate gem.
It was a good ending to a good day, and though I had accomplished nothing definite, I was happy.
Next morning I had the car ready early, and took every one for a spin through the Hout, which reminded them of the Bois, or what the Bois would be if pretty houses were scattered over it like fallen leaves.
We stopped in Haarlem after that last spin only long enough to do reverence to Franz Hals, and the collection of his work which is the immediate jewel of the city"s soul.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _We stopped at Haarlem only long enough to do reverence to Franz Hals_]
It was pretty to watch Nell sc.r.a.ping acquaintance with the bold, good-humored officers and archers, and bland munic.i.p.al magnates whom Hals has made to live on canvas. She looked the big, stalwart fellows in the eye, but half shyly, as a girl regards a man to whom she thinks, yet is not quite sure, she ought to bow.
"Why, their faces are familiar. I seem to have known them," I heard her murmur, and ventured an explanation of the mystery, over her shoulder.
"You do know them," I said. "Their eyes are using the eyes of their descendants for windows, every day in the streets. Holland isn"t making new types."
She turned to look me up and down, with a flicker of long lashes. Then she sighed----
"What a pity!"
Perhaps I deserved it, for I had brought it on myself. Nevertheless, sweet Phyllis pitied me.
"What surprise have you got for us next, Sir Skipper?" she asked brightly. "Mr. Starr says that no day will be complete without a surprise from you; and we depend upon you for our route as part of the surprise."