Clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fry them plain, or beat an egg on a plate, dip them in it, and then in very fine bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a sieve; the smaller the fish, the finer should be the bread-crumbs--biscuit powder is still better; fry them in plenty of clean lard or drippings; as soon as the lard boils and is still, put in the fish; when they are delicately browned, they are done; this will hardly take two minutes. Drain them on a hair-sieve, placed before the fire, turning them till quite dry. _Obs._ Read No. 145.
"Smelts are allowed to be caught in the Thames, on the first of November, and continue till May. The Thames smelts are the best and sweetest, for two reasons; they are fresher and richer than any other you can get: they catch them much more plentiful and larger in Lancashire and Norfolk, but not so good: a great many are brought to town from Norfolk, but barely come good, as they are a fish which should always be eaten fresh; indeed, all river fish should be eaten fresh, except salmon, which, unless crimped, eats better the second or third day: but all Thames fish, particularly, should be eaten very fresh; no fish eats so bad kept."
_Potted Prawns, Shrimps, or Cray-fish._--(No. 175.)
Boil them in water with plenty of salt in it. When you have picked them, powder them with a little beaten mace, or grated nutmeg, or allspice, and pepper and salt; add a little cold b.u.t.ter, and pound all well together in a marble mortar till of the consistence of paste. Put it into pots covered with clarified b.u.t.ter, and cover them over with wetted bladder.
_Lobster._[187-*]--(No. 176.)
Buy these alive; the lobster merchants sometimes keep them till they are starved, before they boil them; they are then watery, have not half their flavour, and like other persons that die of a consumption, have lost the calf of their legs.
Choose those that (as an old cook says, are "heavy and lively," and) are full of motion, which is the index of their freshness.
Those of the middle size are the best. Never take them when the sh.e.l.l is incrusted, which is a sign they are old. The male lobster is preferred to eat, and the female (on account of the eggs) to make sauce of. The hen lobster is distinguished by having a broader tail than the male, and less claws.
Set on a pot, with water salted in the proportion of a table-spoonful of salt to a quart of water; when the water boils, put it in, and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to an hour, according to its size; wipe all the sc.u.m off it, and rub the sh.e.l.l with a very little b.u.t.ter or sweet oil; break off the great claws, crack them carefully in each joint, so that they may not be shattered, and yet come to pieces easily; cut the tail down the middle, and send up the body whole. For sauce, No.
285. To pot lobster, No. 178.
? These fish come in about April, and continue plentiful till the oyster season returns; after that time they begin to sp.a.w.n, and seldom open solid.
_Crab._--(No. 177.)
The above observations apply to crabs, which should neither be too small nor too large. The best size are those which measure about eight inches across the shoulders.
? Crabs appear and disappear about the same time as lobsters. The cromer crabs are most esteemed; but numbers are brought from the Isle of Wight.
_Potted Lobster or Crab._[188-*]--(No. 178).
This must be made with fine hen lobsters, when full of sp.a.w.n: boil them thoroughly (No. 176); when cold, pick out all the solid meat, and pound it in a mortar: it is usual to add, by degrees, (a very little) finely-pounded mace, black or Cayenne pepper, salt, and, while pounding, a little b.u.t.ter. When the whole is well mixed, and beat to the consistence of paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot, pour clarified b.u.t.ter over it, and cover it with wetted bladder.
_Obs._--Some put lobster without pounding it, and only cut it or pull it into such pieces as if it was prepared for sauce, and mince it with the sp.a.w.n and soft parts and seasoning, and press it together as close as possible; in packing it, place the coral and sp.a.w.n, &c. in layers, so that it may look regular and handsome when cut out. If you intend it as store (see N.B. to No. 284, to make sauce with), this is the best way to do it; but if for sandwiches, &c. the first is the best, and will keep much longer.
Dressed or b.u.t.tered lobsters and crabs, are favourite ornamental dishes with those who deck their table merely to please the eye. Our apology for not giving such receipts will be found in _Obs._ to No. 322.
_OYSTERS._[189-*]--(No. 181.)
The common[189-+] Colchester and Feversham oysters are brought to market on the 5th of August; the Milton, or, as they are commonly called, the melting natives,[189-++] do not come in till the beginning of October, continue in season till the 12th of May, and approach the meridian of their perfection about Christmas.
Some piscivorous gourmands think that oysters are not best when quite fresh from their beds, and that their flavour is too brackish and harsh, and is much ameliorated by giving them a feed.
To FEED[189---] oysters.--Cover them with clean water, with a pint of salt to about two gallons (nothing else, no oatmeal, flour, nor any other trumpery); this will cleanse them from the mud and sand, &c. of the bed; after they have lain in it twelve hours, change it for fresh salt and water, and in twelve hours more they will be in prime order for the mouth, and remain so two or three days: at the time of high water you may see them open their sh.e.l.ls, in expectation of receiving their usual food. This process of feeding oysters is only employed when a great many come up together.
The real Colchester, or Pyfleet barrelled oysters, that are packed at the beds, are better without being put in water: they are carefully and tightly packed, and must not be disturbed till wanted for table. These, in moderate weather, will keep good for a week or ten days.
If an oyster opens his mouth in the barrel, he dies immediately.
To preserve the lives of barrelled oysters, put a heavy weight on the wooden top of the barrel, which is to be placed on the surface of the oysters. This is to be effected by removing the first hoop; the staves will then spread and stand erect, making a wide opening for the head of the barrel to fall down closely on the remaining fish, keeping them close together.
MEM.--The oysters which are commonly sold as barrelled oysters, are merely the smallest natives, selected from the stock, and put into the tub when ordered; and, instead of being of superior quality, are often very inferior. To immature animals there is the same objection as to unripe vegetables.
_Obs._--Common people are indifferent about the manner of opening oysters, and the time of eating them after they are opened; nothing, however, is more important in the enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater.
Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost perfection, must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in the under sh.e.l.l; if not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavour and spirit are lost.
The true lover of an oyster will have some regard for the feelings of his little favourite, and will never abandon it to the mercy of a bungling operator, but will open it himself, and contrive to detach the fish from the sh.e.l.l so dexterously, that the oyster is hardly conscious he has been ejected from his lodging, till he feels the teeth of the piscivorous gourmand tickling him to death.
N.B. Fish is less nutritious than flesh: as a proof, when the trainer of Newmarket wishes to waste a jockey, he is not allowed meat, nor even pudding, if fish can be had. The white kinds of fish, turbots, soles, whiting, cod, haddock, flounders, smelts, &c. are less nutritious than the oily, fat fish, such as eels, salmon, herrings, sprats, &c.: the latter, however, are more difficult to digest, and often disturb weak stomachs, so that they are obliged to call in the a.s.sistance of Cayenne, Cognac, &c.
Sh.e.l.l-fish have long held a high rank in the catalogue of easily digestible and speedily restorative foods; of these the oyster certainly deserves the best character, but we think it has acquired not a little more reputation for these qualities than it deserves; a well-dressed chop[191-*] or steak, see No. 94, will invigorate the heart in a much higher ratio; to recruit the animal spirits, and support strength, there is nothing equal to animal food; when kept till properly tender, none will give so little trouble to the digestive organs, and so much substantial excitement to the const.i.tution. See note under No. 185.
See Dr. WALLIS and Mr. TYSON"S Papers on men"s feeding on flesh, in _Phil. Trans._ vol. xxii. p. 769 to 774; and PORPHYRY on Abstinence from Animal Food, translated by Thomas Taylor, 8vo. 1823.
We could easily say as much in praise of mutton as Mr. Ritson has against it, in his "_Essay on Abstinence from Animal Food, as a Moral Duty_," 8vo. London, 1802, p. 102. He says, "The Pagan priests were the first eaters of animal food; it corrupted their taste, and so excited them to gluttony, that when they had eaten the same thing repeatedly, their luxurious appet.i.tes called for variety. He who had devoured the sheep, longed to masticate the shepherd!!!
"Nature seems to have provided other animals for the food of man, from the astonishing increase of those which instinct points out to him as peculiarly desirable for that purpose. For instance; so quick is the produce of pigeons, that, in the s.p.a.ce of four years, 14,760 may come from a single pair; and in the like period, 1,274,840 from a couple of rabbits, this is nothing to the millions of eggs in the milt of a codfish."
_Scolloped Oysters._--(No. 182.) A good way to warm up any cold fish.
Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes, take them out with a spoon, beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bit of b.u.t.ter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, add as much fine bread-crumbs as will dry it up, then put to it the oyster liquor, and give it a boil up, put the oysters into scollop-sh.e.l.ls that you have b.u.t.tered, and strewed with bread-crumbs, then a layer of oysters, then of bread-crumbs, and then some more oysters; moisten it with the oyster liquor, cover them with bread-crumbs, put about half a dozen little bits of b.u.t.ter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven.
_Obs._ Essence of anchovy, catchup, Cayenne, grated lemon-peel, mace, and other spices, &c. are added by those who prefer piquance to the genuine flavour of the oyster.
Cold fish may be re-dressed the same way.
N.B. Small scollop-sh.e.l.ls, or saucers that hold about half a dozen oysters, are the most convenient.
_Stewed Oysters._--(No. 182*.)
Large oysters will do for stewing, and by some are preferred; but we love the plump, juicy natives. Stew a couple of dozen of these in their own liquor; when they are coming to a boil, skim well, take them up and beard them; strain the liquor through a tamis-sieve, and lay the oysters on a dish. Put an ounce of b.u.t.ter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, put to it as much flour as will dry it up, the liquor of the oysters, and three table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, and a little white pepper and salt; to this some cooks add a little catchup, or finely-chopped parsley, grated lemon-peel, and juice; let it boil up for a couple of minutes, till it is smooth, then take it off the fire, put in the oysters, and let them get warm (they must not themselves be boiled, or they will become hard); line the bottom and sides of a hash-dish with bread-sippets, and pour your oysters and sauce into it. See _Obs._ to receipt No. 278.
_Oysters fried._[192-*]--(No. 183.)
The largest and finest oysters are to be chosen for this purpose; simmer them in their own liquor for a couple of minutes, take them out and lay them on a cloth to drain, beard them and then flour them, egg and bread-crumb them, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate brown.
_Obs._ An elegant garnish for made dishes, stewed rump-steaks, boiled or fried fish, &c.; but they are too hard and dry to be eaten.
FOOTNOTES:
[168-*] "I have ascertained, by many years" observation, that a turbot kept two or three days is much better eating than a very fresh one."--UDE"S _Cookery_, p. 238.