When pressing the foreparts of vests, start at the side seams, and press forward to the front edge. Now reverse the press-jack and vest and press left side in the same manner, around the shoulders and arm holes. Now smooth the wrinkles from the back, starting from the center and pressing forward to the right side seam; then press the left side in the same manner. This removes the wrinkles, and may be done with almost dry sponge cloth and medium warm iron.
All vests are pressed in the same way, with the exception of fancy or white vests. With these use a plain white cotton cloth, and wet sponge with clean water.
Fancy wool vests should be dry cleaned before pressing.
Wash vests require a little thin boiled starch to give body to goods, then iron when almost dry. Turn all pockets inside out before starting to press. The pockets are pressed first, then returned to their proper place, thereby keeping the mouth of the pocket neat and even. Continue the ironing until the vest is completed. With a little practice, one will soon become familiar with the work. Always being careful not to stretch the opening. Rather shrink in, by pressing in a half circle from left to right toward the front edge.
When pressing vests examine the pockets and see if there is a chamois watch pocket, if there is sew or fasten a piece of cloth on the outside of vest pocket as a reminder not to press over the pocket; if you did it would spoil the chamois, and a new pocket would have to be put in for the customer.
=How to clean and press trousers=: Brush thoroughly from the right side, and whip, if necessary, then turn them inside out. Also the pockets. See that all dust and dirt is thoroughly removed, also lint from the seams.
Then turn right side out, and remove all dirt and grease spots with the cleaning fluid as explained. Place on hangers, and when dry, proceed to press as follows: Place trousers flat on a covered table with the knees up (trousers being turned inside out) wet bags at knee with sponge.
Apply the iron, not too hot and press in a circle to the center, to remove and shrink away the bag; now do the same with the left leg. Turn trousers right side out, and press around bottoms, same as in pressing the cuffs on coats. Reverse press-jack and trousers, and press around tops with sponge cloths and iron as far down as seat line or end of fly, starting from the right side of fly and pressing around to the left fly.
Remove the press-jack and lay trousers flat on the table or bench that has been covered with felt or cloth (melton, kersey or thibet). Place creases at the bottom together with the left hand, and with the right hand place the two top suspender b.u.t.tons together, then lay them flat on the bench or lengthwise of the table. Then turn the left leg back as far as the seat line, and straighten the right leg out smooth on the table.
Cover with the sponge cloths and apply the iron, pressing full length of leg, until cloths shows sign of drying, pressing the front and back creases sharp. Then remove the iron and sponge cloths, then slap with the back of the brush to refreshen and brighten the cloth or garment.
Now turn the leg over and press other side in the same manner; then turn leg over to inside as at first and bring the left leg down to meet the right bottom. Turn trousers over, and then turn the right leg back, and proceed to press the left inside leg the same as right. Turn left leg over and press outside. Now turn left leg over to inside as at first, bringing the right leg down to meet the left at the bottom, then have both legs lying perfectly even on top of each other. Press them together from fly or seat line, down to the bottom. Turn trousers over, and press other side in the same manner, using the back of brush for slapping and face to brush nap of cloth. Then place the press-jack on the table again, with the small end pointing to the right, then draw the right bottom of the leg over the small end of press-jack, and press crease out through the turn up. Do this at the front and back about two inches from the bottom. Now press the bottom of left leg the same way.
Some customers do not want this crease taken out, then of course it is to be left in. But custom-made trousers are usually not pressed through the turn up.
This completes the pressing of trousers, place on hangers before wearing or delivering. By practice, one may soon become an expert.
Broadfalls are pressed in the same way. Examine for gloss, and if any, remove as explained.
LESSON VI.
SELECTION OF MATERIAL.
Amount required, for suits, vests, trousers, overcoats, dress suits and Prince Albert suits, Tuxedos, Paddock, Paletot; also ladies" waists, jackets (long and short), and skirts. The amount of material required to reline coats, vests, and top of trousers; ladies" coats and jackets; velvet collars and silk facings.
Amount of goods required for the following garments:
=Sack Suits=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3? yards, 54 inches wide.
=Cutaway or Morning Suit=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3?
yards, 54 inches wide.
=Prince Albert Suit=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3? yards, 54 inches wide.
=Tuxedo Suit=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3? yards, 54 inches wide.
=Dress Suit=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 3? yards, 54 inches wide.
=Sack Overcoat=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 42 inches long, 2? yards, 54 inches wide.
=Trousers=--30 to 42 inches waist measure, 36 to 42 seat measure, 30? to 34 inside leg measure, 1? yards.
=Vests=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 1 yard, 54 inches wide.
=Paddock or Palitot=--36 to 42 inches breast measure, 4 yards, 54 inches wide.
=Ladies" Shirt Waist=--30 to 40 inches bust measure, 3? yards, 27 inches wide.
=Ladies" Jackets and Coats (short)=--30 to 40 inches bust measure, 2? yards, 54 inches wide.
=Ladies" Jackets and Coats (long)=--30 to 40 inches bust measure, 4? yards, 54 inches wide.
=Ladies" Skirts=--20 to 42 inches waist measure, 40 to 44 inches long, 4? yards, 54 inches wide.
Amount of goods required to reline the following garments:
=Sack or Tuxedo Coat=--2 yards, 32 inch or 1? yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth, or silk, to match. 1 yard fancy sateen sleeve lining.
=Overcoats=--42 inches long, 2? yards, 32 inches wide or 2 yards, 54 inches wide. Serge, Italian cloth, or Circa.s.sian. 1?
yards satin sleeve lining, 20 inches wide. Or 1 yard, 40 inch l.u.s.terene sleeve lining.
=Overcoats, Silk or Satin Lined Throughout=--Require from 4 to 5 yards.
=Vests=--? yard, 32 or 54 inches wide. Serge, Alpaca, Italian cloth or silk, for outside back. 1 yard 20 inch fancy sateen, for inside body lining.
=Trousers=--? yard 20 inch colored sateen, for waist band lining.
=Dress Coats=--Prince Alberts, 3 yards 30 inch silk, for the former, and 4 yards, for the latter.
=Tuxedo Facing=--1 yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk.
=Dress or Prince Albert (fancy)=--7/8 yard heavy corded or fancy weave silk.
=Velvet Collars for Overcoats=--vary in width from 4? to 6 inches wide on the bias. This may be determined when velvet collar is ripped off by measuring width.
When new b.u.t.tons are required, replace with as near as possible to the original.
When using silk, and b.u.t.tonhole twist, match cloth as near as can be had.
LESSON VII.
CARE OF CLOTHES.
Under this lesson is explained the care of clothes. How to keep them looking fresh and clean. How to be well dressed.
=Care of clothes=: Cleaning, brushing, repairing and pressing frequently is a step in the right channel, for a man"s appearance depends largely upon the care he takes of his clothes. Clothes should be brushed often especially after being worn in the dust and dirt, and should be hung up in a clean place where they will be out of the dust. Coats and vest should always be placed on coat hangers together to retain their shape, and to be ready for wear when wanted. The loop at the back of the coat collar, should never be used to hang coats up by but for a few minutes, as the weight of garments will pull the collar out of shape.