To pickle Barberries, or Pipperages, as call"d in some places.
Gather your Barberries in dry Weather, and lay them in their Bunches into an earthen glazed Pot, then boil a quant.i.ty of Water made strong with Salt, sc.u.mming it as it rises, and let it stand to be quite cold; then pour it upon the Barberries, so as to cover them an Inch, and cover it close. Some use half Vinegar and half Water for this Pickle, but it is at every one"s pleasure, I think one is as good as the other.
Partridges are now in Season, and are prepared after several manners; some of the princ.i.p.al are the following.
Boil"d Partridges with stew"d Sallary, from Lady W------.
The Partridges being clean"d and trussed, boil them tender, and make the following Sauce for them. Take half a score large Sallary Plants that are well whiten"d or blanched, boil them first in Water and Salt, and then stew them tender with Gravey, Salt, some Pepper, and a Spoonful or two of White wine; and when they are enough, thicken and brown the Sauce they are stew"d in with burnt b.u.t.ter, lay your Sallary at the bottom of the Dish, and your Partridges upon that, then pour your Sauce over all, and garnish with Lemmon or Orange slic"d. This is the method of stewing Sallary, which is an agreeable Plate of itself.
From the same Lady I had the following Directions for roasted Partridges: Partridges which are designed for roasting may be larded with fine Bacon Fat on the Breast, or roasted without larding; but in a Dish of these Fowls, there should be some of one and some of the other. The Sauce for them should be of two sorts, one of Gravey in the Dish with them, and the other of Bread in Saucers on the sides of the Dish. The Gravey is made of Beef, an Onion, a Bunch of sweet Herbs, some Salt and Pepper, stew"d half an hour together, in a little more Water than will cover them, then strain off the Liquor into the Dish.
The Pap-Sauce, or Bread-Sauce, is made of grated Crumb of Bread, boiled with as much Water as will cover it, a little b.u.t.ter, an Onion, and some whole Pepper; this must be kept stirring often, and when it is very thick, withdraw the Onion, and serve it in a Saucer with your Partridges. These Sauces may likewise be served with Pheasants, or Quails. These may also be stew"d, farced, baked, or put in Soups, or used in Frica.s.sees. Thus far the Lady.
Hares begin now to be in Season, and are well dress"d by the following Receipt, which I purchased a few Years ago, at a noted Tavern in _London_.
A Hare and its Sauces.
If you kill a Hare by Coursing, you may keep it if the Weather be cool three days before you roast it; or if it has been run hard by the Hounds, then it will not keep so long. When the Skin is taken off, it is the fashion to leave the Ears on, but that is at pleasure; then truss it for Roasting, and take the Liver and boil it, and mince it very small; add to this grated Bread, a little All-Spice, but fine, some b.u.t.ter"d Eggs, a little dry"d sweet Marjoram, with a Seasoning of Pepper and Salt at discretion, and some Parsley shred small: Mix this well together, and add the Yolk of an Egg to it to bind it; then fill the Body of the Hare moderately with this Farce, and sew up the Belly. When the Hare is first laid down to the fire, put about three pints of Water with an Onion, some Salt and whole Pepper, in the Dripping-pan, and baste the Hare with this till it is near roasted enough, and baste it with a piece of fat burning Bacon, or in the place of that, common b.u.t.ter; but the Bacon is best, if the Person knows how to use it. When it is enough, pour the following Sauce into the Dish with it: Take the Liquor, with the Onion and Pepper in the Dripping-pan, out before you baste the Hare with b.u.t.ter or Bacon, and boil it with a gla.s.s of Claret; it will be very rich when it comes to be mixt with the Farce out of the Belly of the Hare, and is little trouble. You may thicken this with a little b.u.t.ter and Flower, if you please.
The following is also a very good one: Take a pound of lean Beef, boil it in about three pints of Water with an Onion, a Bunch of sweet Herbs, some All-spice, Pepper and Salt, till the Beef is boil"d half enough; then cut the Beef in several places to let out the Gravey, and continue to boil all those till the Liquor has lost a third part; then add a little Claret to it, and strain the Liquor through a Sieve, pouring the Gravey hot into the Dish before you put the Hare in it; and when you lay in the Hare, cut away the part that was sew"d up, or take away the thread that sew"d it. Some chuse to skewer up the Belly of the Hare, rather than sew it. You may serve this with Lemmon sliced, and in a plate by it have the following Sauce.
Sweet Venison Sauce.
Take half a pint of Claret, a little Stick of Cinnamon, and boil them together till the Flavour of the Cinnamon is in the Claret; then sweeten it to your mind with double-refined Loaf-sugar. Or else,
Grate some Crumb of Bread, and put to it as much Claret as will make it like thin Pap; add to this a small piece of Cinnamon, and boil it well, then sweeten it with double-refined Loaf-sugar grated small. These are the sweet Sauces used for Hare, and all other Venison.
To dress a Hare with White or Brown Sauce, from the late curious Mr.
_Harrison_ of _Henley_ upon _Thames._
Cut your Hare in four or eight pieces, and slit the Head; fry it a little in Hog"s Lard, and then put it to stew in an earthen glazed Vessel, with Gravey, half a pint of White-wine, Pepper, Nutmeg, Salt, a bunch of sweet Herbs, and a slice or two of Lemmon-Peel; keep this close covered, and stew it gently till "tis tender, then strain off the Sauce, and brown it with fry"d Flower, or burnt b.u.t.ter: pour the Sauce hot over the Hare, and serve it With a Garnish of Lemmon in Slices; but if you would have your Sauce of brighter Colour, instead of the burnt b.u.t.ter, or fry"d Flower, thicken it with the Yolks of three or four Eggs. This is an excellent way of dressing a Hare, and more generally admired than any other.
This being the Season for taking Honey, I shall here set down the Method of making of Mead, after two ways, which are both extraordinary.
To make Mead, from Lady _G._
Take eight Gallons of Water, and as much Honey as will make it bear an Egg; add to this the Rind of six Lemmons, and boil it well, sc.u.mming it carefully as it rises. When "tis off the Fire, put to it the Juice of the six Lemmons, and pour it into a clean Tub, or open earthen Vessel, if you have one large enough, to work three Days; then sc.u.m it well, and pour off the clear into the Cask, and let it stand open till it has done making a hissing Noise; after which, stop it up close, and in three Months time it will be fine, and fit for bottling.
To make Hydromel, or Mead.
Take eight Gallons of Water, and as much Honey as will make the Water bear an Egg; put to this a quarter of a pound of Cloves tied in three or four pieces of Muslin or Linnen Cloth, and set it to boil till the Sc.u.m has done rising, sc.u.mming it as it rises; then take it off the Fire, and take out the Cloves, which may be wash"d and dry"d for other Uses, and pour your Mead into an open Tub to ferment for about three days, till the Violence of the Working is over; after which, sc.u.m it very well, and pour the clear into a Vessel, leaving the Bung open till it has done hissing, which you may know by holding your Ear close to it, for at a distance you can hardly discover it. When this hissing is over, stop it close, and let it stand three Months till it is fine, before you bottle it; remember in bottling this, as well as all other Liquors, that the Bottles must be clean, and perfectly dry, and that every Bottle be well cork"d. This will keep good several Years.
Besides this way of making Mead, there is another which I have approved to be very good, which, in all particulars, except the Water, is the same with this; and instead of the Water, put the like Quant.i.ty of small Ale-Wort, brew"d with pale Malt: but this will require less Honey than the former, and will require more time in the Vessel before it is fine and fit to bottle; but it will last many Years good, and will drink like _Cyprus_ Wine when it is a Year old. In this Liquor, take particular care that your Cloves are fresh and sound, for else you must add a Quant.i.ty in proportion.
_N.B._ We may make these Meads in the Spring of the Year, as well as at this Season; only the advantage of making it now, is, that you have an opportunity of washing the Honey-Combs after the Honey is run off, and thereby will save Expence in Honey.
The Potatoe now begins to be gather"d, and is a very useful Root, being either boil"d or roasted in hot Embers; and after it is boiled, to be broiled, or after boiling it tender, and beaten in a Mortar, it is used to thicken Sauces, and for making of rich Puddings, as I am inform"d by a skilful Person in this way.
The Roots of red Beets now begin to come in season, and are very good boiled, and sliced, to be put in a Pickle of Vinegar only: thus you may keep them to garnish Sallads of small Herbs, and in some Intervals put Horse-Radish sc.r.a.ped. These Roots will hold all the Winter. The Root of the red Beet makes an excellent Dish, prepared after the following manner, which I got abroad.
To fry the Roots of Red Beets.
Wash your Beet-Roots, and lay them in an earthen glazed Pan, bake them in an Oven, and then peel the Skin off them: after this is done, slit them from the Top to the Tail, and cut them in the shape of the Fish call"d a Sole, about the thickness of the third part of an Inch; dip these in a thick Batter, made of White-Wine, fine Flower, sweet Cream, the Whites and Yolks of Eggs, rather more Yolks than Whites, some Pepper, Salt, and Cloves beaten fine, all well mix"d. As you dip every piece of Beet-Root in this Batter, strew them over thick with fine Flower mix"d with grated Bread, and Parsley shred small, and then fry them in Lard: when they are enough, let them dry, and serve them with a Garnish of Lemmon. These likewise may be put about stew"d Carps, Tench, or roasted Jacks, by way of Garnish, with sc.r.a.ped Horse-Radish, and pickled Barberries.
In the Heats of this Month, the following Jelly is used by a curious Gentleman abroad, who gave me the Receipt of it, under the Name of _The Jelly of Health:_ It is of great use to weak People, and extremely pleasant.
To make the Jelly of Health.
Take some Calves Feet, according to the Jelly you design to make, and also get a c.o.c.k of the common Poultry kind; wash these well, and put them in a Kettle to boil, with a proportionable Quant.i.ty of Water, particularly taking off the Sc.u.m as it rises. When these Meats are boiled almost to pieces, it is a sign that your Jelly is boiled enough; but take care that it is not too stiff, which you may try by taking a little out with a Spoon, and then setting it to cool. Then pour the Liquor thro" a Sieve into a Stew-pan, and take off all the Fat; after which, put to the Liquor a proportionable Quant.i.ty of double-refined Loaf-Sugar, a small Stick or two of Cinnamon, three or four Cloves, and the Rinds of two or three Lemmons: boil all these together gently for about a quarter of an hour, till it is well-tasted, and then beat up the Whites of four or five Eggs, with the Juice of the six Lemmons, and pour them into the Jelly, stirring the whole a little time over the Fire; then let this Mixture stand still upon the Fire till it rises ready to boil over; at which time, you must take it off, and pour it into the Jelly-Bag, and as it runs thro" into a Pan set to receive it, pour it again into the Jelly-Bag for three or four times till it comes clear, and then let it drop into Jelly-Gla.s.ses. Sometimes, the above Gentleman told me, he has put a little White-Wine into the Liquor while the Meats were boiling in it, which he thinks helps it.
SEPTEMBER.
As this Month produces great numbers of Mushrooms in the Fields, it is now chiefly that we ought to provide ourselves with them for making of Ketchup, and Mushroom Gravey: And it is also a proper Season for pickling them.
Indeed, where we have Mushroom-Beds, we may do these Works at any time of the Year. It is to be remark"d, that the best Mushrooms have their Gills of a Flesh Colour, even while the Mushrooms are in b.u.t.ton; and as they tend to spread in their Head, or to open their Cap, the Gills turn redder, till at length, when their Heads are fully spread open, they will become quite black. These large-flap Mushrooms are still good for stewing or broiling, so long as they have no Worms in them, and the Gills are then in the best state for making Ketchup, or Mushroom-Gravey; altho" the red Gills will do, but the smaller b.u.t.tons are what most People covet for Pickling.
In the gathering of Mushrooms, we are sure to meet with some of all sizes; the very small for pickling, the large b.u.t.tons for stewing or making Mushroom-Loaves, and Mushroom-Gravey, and the large Flaps for broiling or making of Ragous, or stewing, and Ketchup: therefore to follow the common way, we should make two or three Parcels of them.
The cleaning of Mushrooms, or preparing them for any of the above Uses, will afford us nothing but what is useful; the Parings should be saved by themselves, to be wash"d, towards the making of what is called Mushroom Gravey; the Gills must be saved by themselves for making either Ketchup, or Mushroom-Gravey; and the Parts towards the Roots, and the Roots themselves, must be kept to dry in the Sun, or a warm Room, to raise Mushrooms from, especially if they are of a large good sort that has red Gills, for those which have white Gills, prove oftentimes unwholesome, and are apt to turn yellow when they are cut and put in Water: however, some People eat of this sort, and I have eaten of such a sort myself; but as there are some with white Gills that are deadly, it is dangerous for unskilful Persons to meddle with any of that fort: and therefore I thought it convenient when I was in _France_, to learn the Method of raising them in Beds, that we might be sure of our sort, and have them all the Year about: The Method of doing which, is in my _Appendix_ to my _New Improvements of Planting and Gardening_, printed for Mr. _Mears_, at _Temple-Bar_.
The following Receipts for making of Mushroom-Ketchup, and Mushroom-Gravey, I had from a Gentleman named _Garneau_, whom I met at _Brussels_, and by Experience find them to be very good.
To make Mushroom Ketchup.
Take the Gills of large Mushrooms, such as are spread quite open, put them into a Skellet of Bell-Metal, or a Vessel of Earthen-Ware glazed, and set them over a gentle Fire till they begin to change into Water; and then frequently stirring them till there is as much Liquor come out of them as can be expected, pressing them often with a Spoon against the side of the Vessel; then strain off the Liquor, and put to every Quart of it about eighty Cloves, if they are fresh and good, or half as many more, if they are dry, or have been kept a long time, and about a Drachm of Mace: add to this about a Pint of strong red _Port_ Wine that has not been adulterated, and boil them all together till you judge that every Quart has lost about a fourth Part or half a Pint; then pa.s.s it thro" a Sieve, and let it stand to cool, and when it is quite cold, bottle it up in dry Bottles of Pints or Half-Pints, and cork them close, for it is the surest way to keep these kind of Liquors in such small quant.i.ties as may be used quickly, when they come to be exposed to the Air, for fear of growing mouldy: _but I have had a Bottle of this sort of Ketchup, that has been open"d and set by for above a, Year, that has not received the least Damage_; and some Acquaintance of mine have made of the same sort, and have kept it in Quart-Botles to use as occasion required, and have kept it good much longer than I have done. A little of it is very rich in any Sauce, and especially when Gravey is wanting: Therefore it may be of service to Travellers, who too frequently meet with good Fish, and other Meats, in Britain, as well as in several other parts of Europe, that are spoiled in the dressing; but it must be consider"d, that there is no Salt in this, so that whenever it is used, Salt, Anchovies, or other such like relishing things, may be used with it, if they are agreeable to the Palate, and so likewise with the Mushroom Gravey in the following Receipt.
Of Mushroom Gravey.