At a little hamlet near Clermont, where we rested some time, two good old women told us that this was the happiest day (twas Sunday) of their lives; that they had lost le bon Dieu for these last ten years, but that Bonaparte had now found him! In another cottage we were told the villagers had kept their own cur? all this time concealed, and though privately and with fright, they had thereby saved their souls through the whole of the bad times!
And in another, some poor creatures said they were now content with their destiny, be it what it might, since they should be happy, at least, in the world to come - but that while denied going to ma.s.s, they had all their sufferings aggravated by knowing that they must lose their souls hereafter, besides all that they had to endure here!
O my dearest father! that there can have existed wretches of such diabolical wickedness as to have s.n.a.t.c.hed, torn, from the toiling indigent every ray even of future hope! Various of these little conversations extremely touched me nor was I unmoved, though not with such painful emotion, on the sight of the Sunday night dance, in a little village through which we pa.s.sed, where there seemed two or three hundred peasants engaged in that pastime all clean and very gaily dressed, yet all so decent and well behaved, that, but for the poor old fiddlers, we might have driven on, and not have perceived the rustic ball.
Here ends the account of my journey, and if it has amused my dearest father, it will be a true delight to me to have scribbled it. My next letter brings me to the capital, and to the only person who can console me for my always lamented absence from himself.
ENGAGEMENTS, OCCUPATIONS, AND FATIGUE
(Madame d"Arblay to Miss Planta.) Paris, April 27, 1802.
A week have I been here, my dear Miss Planta, so astonishingly engaged, so indispensably occupied, or so suffering from fatigue, that I have not been able till now to take up Page 217
pen, except to satisfy my dear father of our safe arrival.
To give you some idea of these engagements, occupations, and fatigues, I must begin with the last. We were a whole long, languid day, a whole restless, painful night, upon the sea; my little Alex sick as death, suffering if possible yet more than myself, though I had not a moment of ease and comfort. My little Adrienne de Chavagnac was perfectly well all the time, singing and skipping about the cabin, and amusing every one by her innocent enjoyment of the novelty of the scene. . . .
As to my occupations;-my little apartment to arrange, my trunks and baggage to unpack and place, my poor Adrienne to consign to her friends, my Alex to nurse from a threatening malady; letters to deliver, necessaries to buy; a femme de chambre to engage; and, most important of all! my own sumptuous wardrobe to refit, and my own poor exterior to reorganise! I see you smile, methinks, at this hint; but what smiles would brighten the countenance of a certain young lady called Miss Rose, who amused herself by antic.i.p.ation, when I had last the honour of seeing her, with the changes I might have to undergo, could she have heard the exclamations which followed the examination of my attire: "This won"t do! That YOU can never wear! This you can never be seen in! That would make you stared at as a curiosity!-- Three petticoats! no one wears more than one!-- Stays? everybody has left off even corsets!--Shift sleeves? not a soul now wears even a chemise!" etc. In short, I found all I possessed seemed so hideously old fashioned, or so comically rustic, that as soon as it was decreed I must make appearance in the grand monde, hopeless of success in exhibiting myself in the" costume Fran?ais, I gave over the attempt, and ventured to come forth as a gothic Anglaise, who never heard of, or never heeded the reigning metamorphosis.
As to my engagements;--when should I finish, should I tell all that have been made or proposed, even in the short s.p.a.ce of a single week? The civilities I have met with, contrary to all my expectations, have not more amazed me for myself, than gratified me for M. d"Arblay, who is keenly alive to the kind, I might say distinguished, reception I have been favoured with by those to whom my arrival is known.
Your favourite hero is excessively popular at this moment from three successive grand events, all occurring within the Page 218
short time of my arrival,--the ratification of the treaty of peace--the restoration of Sunday, and Catholic worship--and the amnesty of the emigrants. At the Opera buffa, the loge in which I sat was exactly opposite to that of the first Consul but he and his family are all at Malmaison.
DIARY RESUMED: (Addressed to Dr. Burney.)
ARISTOCRATIC VISITORS.
Paris, April 1, 1802.(174)-Almost immediately after my arrival in Paris, I was much surprised by a visit from the ci-devant Prince de Beauvau, madame his wife, and Mademoiselle de Mortemar her sister, all brought by Madame d"Henin. if gratified in the first instance by a politeness of attention so little my due and so completely beyond my expectations, how was my pleasure enhanced when I found they all three spoke English with the utmost ease and fluency, and how pleased also at the pleasure I was able to give them in reward of their civility, by a letter I had brought from Mrs. Harcourt, which was received with the warmest delight by Mademoiselle de Mortemar and a message from a young lady named Elizabeth, with the profoundest grat.i.tude.
April 24-This morning Madame d"Henin was so kind as to accompany us, in making our visit to Madame de Beauvau her niece, and Mademoiselle de Mortemar. We found them at home with M. de Beauvau, and they indulged me with the sight of their children, who are the most flourishing and healthy possible, and dressed and brought up with English plainness and simplicity. The visit was very pleasant, and Madame d"Henin made a party for us all to meet again the next day, and go to the Opera buffa.
ANXIETY TO SEE THE FIRST CONSUL.
I have heard much of the visit of Mrs. Damer and the Miss Berrys to Paris, and their difficulty to get introduced to the first Consul.(175) A lady here told us she had been called upon
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by Miss Berry, who had complained with much energy upon this subject, saying, "We have been everywhere--seen everything--heard every body--beheld such sights! listened to such discourse!
joined such society! and all to obtain his notice! Don"t you think it very extraordinary that he should not himself desire to see Mrs. Damer?
"Madame," replied the lady, "perhaps if you had done but half this, the first Consul might have desired to see you both."
"But you don"t imagine," answered she, laughing, "we came over from England to see you ci-devants ? We can see such as you at home!"
She was gone before our arrival ; and, as I understand, succeeded at last in obtaining an introduction. They were both, Mrs. Damer and Miss Berry, as I am told, very gay and agreeable, as well as enterprising, and extremely well r?pandues.
AT THE OPERA-BOUFFE.
April 25.-I was not much better in the evening, but the party for the Opera buffa being formed by Madame d"Henin on my account, my going was indispensable. She had borrowed the loge of M. de Choiseul, which, being entailed upon the family ? perp?tuit?, has in a most extraordinary manner continued unalienated through the whole course of ma.s.sacres and proscriptions to the present day, when the right owner possesses it. It is the largest and best box, except that which is opposite to it, in the theatre. . . .
The opera was "Le Nozze di Dorina," by Sarti, and extremely pretty; though I wished it had been as new to M. C-- de P-- as to myself, for then he would not have divided my attention by obligingly singing every note with every performer. In truth, I was still so far from recovered from the fatigue of my journey, that I was lulled to a drowsiness the most distressing before the end of the second act, "
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which being but too obvious, Madame d"Henin and M. d"Arblay took me away before I risked a downright nap by waiting for the third.
DIFFICULTIES RESPECTING MADAME DE STAEL.
April 26-The a.s.sembly at Madame d"Henin"s was one of the most select and agreeable at which I was ever present. a.s.sembly, however, I ought not to call a meeting within the number of twenty. But I was uneasy for my poor Alex, and therefore stole away as soon as possible; not, however, till Madame de Tess? made a party for us for the following Thursday at her house, nor till I had held a private discourse with Mademoiselle de -- upon my embarra.s.sment as to Madame de Stael, from the character she held in England; which embarra.s.sment was not much lightened by her telling me it was not held more fair in France ! Yet, that everywhere the real evil is highly exaggerated by report, envy, and party-spirit, all allow. She gives, however, great a.s.semblies at which all Paris a.s.sist, and though not solicited or esteemed by her early friends and acquaintance, she is admired, and pitied, and received by them. I would she were gone to Copet!(176)
What most perplexed me at this period was the following note from Madame de Stael.
"je voudrois vous t?moigner mon empress.e.m.e.nt, madame, et je crains d"?tre indiscrette. j"esp?re que vous aurez la bont? de me faire dire quand vous serez a.s.sez remise des fatigues de votre voyage pour que je puisse avoir l"honneur de vous voir sans vous importuner.
"Ce 4 florial. (177) "Necker Stael de H."(178)
How is it possible, when even the common civility of a card for her card is yet unreturned, that she can have brought herself thus to descend from her proud heights to solicit the
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renewal of an acquaintance broken so abruptly in England, and so palpably shunned in France ? Is it that the regard she appeared to conceive for me in England was not only sincere but constant?
If so, I must very much indeed regret a waste of kindness her character and conduct make it impossible for me to repay, even though, on this spot, I am a.s.sured all her misfortunes are aggravated, nay caricatured, by report, and that she exerts her utmost influence, and calls forth her best talents, upon every occasion which presents itself for serving those who have been her friends ; and that, notwithstanding circ.u.mstances and disunion, either in politics or morals, may have made them become her enemies. Her generosity is cited as truly singular upon this head, and I have heard histories of her returning, personally, good for evil that would do honour to any character living.
After much deliberation and discussion, my French master composed the following answer:--
"Madame d"Arblay ne peut qu"?tre infiniment flatt?e de l"extr?me bont? de Madame la Comtesse de Stael. Elle aura tr?s certainement l"honneur de se pr?senter chez Madame de Stael aussit?t que possible."(179)
Cooler than this it was not easy to write, and the ne peut qu"?tre is a tournure that is far enough from flattering. I hope, however, it will prepare her for the frozen kind of intercourse which alone can have place between us.
MADAME DE LAFAYETTE.
As I wished much to see the parade, or review, which was to take place on the 5th, and is only once a month, we were forced to devote the preceding day to visits, as it was decreed in our council of etiquette that I could not appear in a place where I might be seen by those who had shown me the civility of beginning an acquaintance, till I had acknowledged my debt to them. . . . I was so thoroughly tired when I returned from all these visits, that I was forced to rest upon a bed for the remainder of the day, to my no small discomposure before the evening was closed; for, in a close cap, my feet in their native, undraperied state, hidden by a large, long, wrapping morning Page 222 gown, your daughter, my dearest sir, lay reclined on a bed when, rather late in the evening, I was told Madame d"Henin was in the salon. I was going to send in my excuses, while I rose to get ready for waiting upon her - but Alex flung open the door, and seeing where I was, and how fatigued, she insisted on my keeping still, and came to my bedside, and sat in friendly converse, listening to the history of my morning excursion, till a ring at the bell of our ante-room made me desire to have n.o.body admitted.
Alex again, however, frisking about, prevented Pauline, my little femme de chambre, from hearing me, and she announced Madame de Lafayette!
You may easily believe this name, and my present situation, put me into no small commotion. I was beseeching Madame d"Henin to go to the saloon with my apologies, when Alex, whose illness, though it has diminished his strength and his flesh, has left his spirits as wild as ever, called out to proclaim where I was, and while Madame Lafayette was gently moving on, flung the bedroom door wide open, saying, "Mamma is here! " Madame Lafayette, concluding, I suppose, that I received du monde in the French manner, immediately presented herself at the door, where I had no resource but to entreat Madame d"Henin, who is her intimate friend, to receive her, for I was wholly powerless, with my unsandaled feet, from rising. Madame d"Henin now brought her to my bedside, where nothing could have been more awkward than my situation : but that the real reverence I had conceived for her character and her virtues made the sight of so singular a person, her condescension in the visit, and her goodness, though lame, in mounting three pair of stairs, give me a sensation of pleasure, that by animating my spirits, endowed me with a courage that overcame all difficulties both of language and position, and enabled me to express my grat.i.tude for her kindness and my respect for her person, with something far nearer to fluency and clearness than anything in speech I have yet attempted. My mind instantly presented her to me, torn from her beloved family, and thrown into the death-impending prison of Robespierre ; and then saved by his timely destruction from the scaffold, and then using her hardly-recovered liberty only by voluntarily sacrificing it to be immured with her husband in the dungeon of Olmtz.(180) Various as may be the opinions of Page 223
the politics of M. de Lafayette, all Europe, I believe,"concur in admiration of the character and conduct of his virtuous and heroic wife. Indeed, nothing since my arrival has so sensibly gratified me, from without, as this visit.
Madame Lafayette is the daughter of the ci-devant Duc d"Ayen, and consequently niece of Madame de Tess?, the duke"s sister. She was married to M. de Lafayette when she was only seventeen years of age. By some cold or mismanagement, and total want of exercise in the prison of Olmtz, some humour has fallen into one of her ankles, that, though it does not make her absolutely lame, causes walking to be so painful and difficult to her that she moves as little as possible, and is always obliged to have a stool for her foot. She now resides with M. de Lafayette and their three children entirely in the country, at a chateau which has descended to her since the revolutionary horrors and therefore has not been confiscated, called "La Grange." They never come to Paris but upon business of positive necessity. She had arrived only this morning on a visit to her aunt, Madame de Tess?, to make some preparations for the approaching marriage of her only son.
Her youngest daughter, Mademoiselle de Lafayette, accompanied her. She is a blooming young creature of English fairness-as we English choose to say-with a bright native colour, and beautiful light hair ; otherwise with but indifferent features, and not handsome : yet her air, though modest even to the extreme that borders upon bashfulness, is distinguished, and speaks her to be both sensible and well brought up.