Strictly, perhaps, it is not a single method, but a group of methods, which are used to supply a certain cla.s.s of dye-stuffs to the wool fibre; but as the governing principle depends upon the peculiar property of the dye-stuffs now to be noticed, which underlies all the variations of the process of dyeing, it has been thought better to speak of the fourth method rather than to subdivide further, in which case the fundamental principle might be lost sight of.
The cla.s.s of dye-stuffs included in the fourth group was named by Bancroft the "adjective" group, because they require the aid of a second body, named the mordant, to properly develop and to fix the colour of the dye-stuff on the wool. It is sometimes known as the "mordant dye-stuff" cla.s.s, and this is perhaps its best name. This (p. 069) group of colouring matters comprises dye-stuffs of both natural and artificial origin, the latter of which are getting very numerous and valuable, and bid fair to displace the natural members of the group.
With but few exceptions the adjective dye-stuffs are not colouring matters of themselves, _i.e._, they will not dye wool or other fibres by themselves. Some are coloured bodies, such as fustic, logwood, Persian berries, Anthracene yellow, etc., but many are not so, and some possess but little colour, which, moreover, gives no clue to the colours that can be developed therefrom.
All the colouring matters of this cla.s.s possess either a distinctively acid character, or belong to the cla.s.s of phenols, which, while not being true acids, still possess weak acid functions that enable them to combine with bases like acids. These bodies have the property of combining with bases and metallic oxides, such as soda, potash, iron, alumina, chrome, tin, nickel, cobalt, etc., forming a series of salts.
Those of soda and potash are usually soluble in water, while those of the other metals are insoluble, and are usually of strong colour. It is on this property of forming these insoluble coloured bodies, colour lakes, as they are called, that the value of the adjective dye-stuffs in dyeing depends.
The group of adjective colouring matters may be subdivided into two divisions, not depending upon any differences in the mode of application, but upon certain differences in the results they give.
Perhaps the best example of an adjective dye-stuff is Alizarine. This body has a faint red colour, but of itself possesses absolutely no colouring power. When, however, it is brought into combination with such metallic oxide as alumina, iron and chrome, then it forms coloured bodies, the colour of which varies with the metal with which it is in union, thus with alumina, it is a bright red; with iron, a dark violet, almost black; with chrome, a deep red; with tin, a (p. 070) scarlet; and so on. This is a representative of the true adjective dyes, which comprise most of the so-called Alizarine dye-stuffs, and logwood, fustic, and most of the natural dye-stuffs. Another division of the group includes a few colouring matters of recent introduction, like Azo green, Alizarine yellow, Galloflavine, Anthracene yellow, Flavazol, etc., which, while forming insoluble colour lakes with metallic oxides, do not give different colours with different metals.
This cla.s.s of dye-stuffs, owing to their forming these insoluble colours, gives really fast colours, capable of resisting lengthened exposure to light and air, and resisting washing, acids and alkalies.
Of course there are differences between the various members of the group in this respect, and even the resisting power of an individual member depends a good deal on the metal with which it is combined, and the care with which the process of dyeing has been carried out.
In the dyeing of these adjective dye-stuffs, upon the various fibres, and on wool in any particular, the object is to bring about in any convenient way the formation on the fibre of the metallic combination of the colouring principle and the mordant, and it is obvious that if a satisfactory result is to be obtained, then this must be done in a very thorough manner. There are three ways in which this combination of colouring principle and mordant may be brought about in dyeing wool with these bodies, we may either mordant the wool first, and then apply the dye-stuff, or we may impregnate the wool with the dye-stuff first, and then fix or develop the colour afterwards, or, lastly, we may carry on both operations in one process. Each of these methods will now be discussed, and their relative advantages pointed out.
The mordanting method is one of the most generally useful. It consists in first causing a combination of the metal with the wool fibre. (p. 071) This is carried out by boiling the wool in a solution of the metal, such as bichromate of potash, chrome alum or chrome fluoride when chrome is to be used as a mordant, with alum or sulphate of alumina when alumina is required to be deposited on the fibre, and with copperas when iron is to be the mordant. It is best to add a little oxalic acid, cream of tartar, or tartaric acid to the mordanting bath, which addition helps in the decomposition of the metallic salt by the wool fibre, and the deposition of the metallic oxide on the wool. With bichromate of potash, sulphuric acid is often used, much depending upon the character of the mordant required. Some dye-stuffs, such as logwood for blacks, work best when the wool is mordanted with chromic acid, which is effected when sulphuric acid is the a.s.sistant mordant.
Other dye-stuffs, such as fustic, Persian berries and Alizarine yellow, are best dyed on a basic chrome mordant, which is effected when tartar or oxalic acid is the a.s.sistant mordant used, or when some other form of chrome compound than bichrome is employed.
The actual mordanting is done by boiling the wool in a bath of the mordant, the quant.i.ty of which should be varied according to the particular mordant that is being employed and to the quant.i.ty of dye-stuffs which is to be used. It is obvious that for a fixing deep shade of, say, Alizarine on the wool, a larger quant.i.ty of mordant will be required than to fix a pale shade; sometimes this point is overlooked and the same amount of mordant employed for pale or deep shades. The best plan of carrying out the mordanting is to enter the wool in the cold bath or at a hand heat, and then raise to the boil and continue the boiling for one hour; of course the goods should be kept turned over during the process to facilitate the even mordanting of the wool. A great deal of the success of dyeing with the dye-stuffs now under consideration depends upon the efficiency with which the (p. 072) mordanting has been carried out. If this is at all unevenly done then no amount of care in the succeeding dyeing process will lead to the development of an even dyeing. After the mordanting is finished the goods should be rinsed with water, but it is not necessary to dry them.
The next stage in the process is the actual dyeing operations, which is done by immersing the mordanted wool in a bath of the dye-stuff or mixture of dye-stuffs.
The fundamental principle is to bring about the combination between the colouring principle of the dye-stuff and the metallic oxide which has been deposited on the wool in the previous mordanting process. As neither of these bodies, however, is very energetic it follows that the action must be a slow one, and, therefore, time is a highly important factor in the dyeing of wool by the mordanting process. The combination between the dye-stuff and the mordant is influenced also by temperature, and is most active at the boiling point of water. It is, therefore, needful to conduct this operation at that temperature, but it would be a wrong way to introduce the mordanted material into a boiling bath of the dye-stuff; nothing would conduce to uneven dyeing so much as that course. The best method of working, which, moreover, is most particularly applicable to the series of Alizarine dye-stuffs, is to enter the goods in a cold bath of the dye-stuff, and to work them for a short time to get them thoroughly impregnated, a condition which is essential if even dyeing is the goal aimed at, then to raise the temperature of the bath gradually to the boil, the goods being in the meantime well worked. The dyeing is continued for from one to one and a half hours at the boil.
It is important in dyeing by this process, especially when using Alizarine, to keep the temperature of the bath as uniform as possible, and the goods well worked. Alizarine, and some other members of (p. 073) this cla.s.s, are rather sensitive to heat, and if a dye-vat be hot at the bottom and cold at the top uneven dyeing is sure to be the result; this is due to the greater affinity of the Alizarine for the mordant at the high than at the low temperature, and thus more is fixed on to the wool. The remedy for this is to so construct the heating arrangements of the vat that the temperature shall be as uniform as possible, while the goods should be kept continually turned over, and every portion of them brought into intimate contact with the dye-liquor. The continuance of the dyeing operations for one and a half to two hours after the vat has reached the boil is necessary to properly develop and fix the colour on the fibre; a short boil leaves the goods of a poor shade, without any solidity about it, and the colour is loose, while a longer boil brings up a solid shade and a fast colour.
Although it is not absolutely necessary to add any acid to the dye-bath during the dyeing operations, yet as the Alizarines and most of this cla.s.s of dye-stuffs dye better in a slightly acid bath it is advisable to add a small quant.i.ty of acetic acid, say about one pint to every 100 lb. of goods; this serves to correct any alkalinity of the water, which may be due to its containing any lime. Dye-stuffs of the acid cla.s.s, such as indigo extract, Cloth red, Acid magenta, etc., may be used along with the Alizarine dye-stuffs, in which case the addition of acid to the dye-bath becomes necessary, but too great an excess of acid should be avoided, as it interferes somewhat with the dyeing of the mordant dyes.
This is by far the best and most generally used method of applying these mordant dyes. It is not a costly process, being indeed economical, as it only requires just the right amounts of drugs and dye-stuffs, and there is the minimum loss of material in the mordanting and dye-baths. Shades can be brought up with the greatest ease, although it is well in the dyeing to add rather less dye-stuff than is (p. 074) actually required, and to add more when it is seen how the shade is coming up. The labour is the most important item in the mordanting and dyeing method.
The proportions of material used to the weight of the wool are: Of bichromate of potash, 3 per cent. for full shades, and 1 per cent. for pale shades; of fluoride of chrome, the same quant.i.ties; of acetate of chrome, according to the strength of the solution used; of alum, 10 to 20 per cent.; of sulphate of alumina, 5 to 10 per cent.; of copperas, 5 to 10 per cent.; of tartar, 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 per cent.; of oxalic acid, 1 to 1-1/2 per cent.; of sulphuric acid, 1 per cent.; of argol, 2-1/2 to 5 per cent.; of tartaric acid, 1 to 1-1/2 per cent.; but of course in an article like this it is impossible to give definite quant.i.ties.
_Second Method_. #Stuffing and Saddening.#--This method consists in first treating the wool with a solution of the dye-stuff, and then with a solution of the mordant required to develop and fix the colour.
This method is more particularly applicable to such dye-stuffs as camwood, cutch, logwood, madder, fustic, etc., the colouring principles of which have some affinity for the wool fibre and will directly combine with it. It is not suitable for the application of the Alizarine colours. The saddening may be and is commonly done in the same bath, that is, after the wool has been stuffed it is lifted, the mordant--copperas, bluestone, bichrome, or alum--is added, and the wool is re-entered into the bath. This cannot be considered a good method of working; the shades obtained are full and deep and fairly fast, but there is usually a considerable loss of colouring matter, as the wool in no case abstracts the whole of the dye-stuff from the bath; what excess is left combines with the mordant when the latter is added, forming an insoluble colour lake, which falls down to the bottom of the dye-vat and is wasted, or it may go upon the wool in (p. 075) a loose, unfixed form, and cause it to rub badly and come off in milling. Then it is rather difficult to dye to shade, much of the result depending on conditions over which the dyer has little control.
Working as he does with dye-stuffs of unknown colouring power, which may vary from time to time with every fresh batch of material, it is evident that, although the same quant.i.ties may be used at all times, at one time a deeper shade may be obtained than at another, and as it is impossible to see what is going to be the result, and if by mischance the shade does not come deep enough it cannot well be rectified by adding a quant.i.ty of dye-wood to the bath, because the mordant in the latter will prevent the colouring matter from being properly extracted, and only a part of that which is extracted is fixed on the wool, the rest being thrown away in the dye-bath, and partly on the particles of wood themselves, when logwood, camwood, etc., are used in the form of chips or powder. Dyers being well aware of this, are in the habit when mistakes occur of bringing up to shade with soluble dye-stuffs--archil, indigo extract, and such like.
This method, as stated above, is very wasteful, not only of dye-stuffs, but of mordants. In no case does the wool absorb the whole of the colouring matter from the bath, the unabsorbed portion goes down to the bottom of the bath when the mordant is added, so that when the dyeing is finished, the dye-bath is charged with a large quant.i.ty of colouring matter in an unusable form which has to be thrown away, thus at once adding to the pollution of the river into which it is run, and to the cost of the process of dyeing. As attention is being directed more and more to the question of the prevention of pollution of rivers, and as the waste liquors from dye-works add to the apparent pollution to a very considerable extent, dyers will have to develop other modes of dyeing than that of stuffing and saddening in one bath.
The principle of dyeing by stuffing and saddening may be carried (p. 076) out by the use of two separate baths; in fact, it is done in the case of dyeing a cutch brown from cutch and bichromate of potash. The goods are first treated in a bath of the dye-wood for a short time, then rinsed, and the colour is developed by padding into a saddening bath of the mordant. By this method the baths, which are never quite exhausted, can be retained for future use, only requiring about 1/2 to 3/4 of the original quant.i.ties to be added for each succeeding batch of the goods, in fact, in some cases, as in cutch, old baths work better than new ones.
The advantage attached to this method of working is that arising from economy of dye-stuff and mordant, and the reduction of the pollution of the stream on which the works are situated. The disadvantages are that the cost of labour is increased by there being two baths instead of one, and that the shades obtained are not always so full as with the one-bath method. This, of course, can be remedied by running the goods through the baths again, which, however, adds to the cost of the process, but there is this much to be said, the shade can be better brought up than by the one-bath process. In some cases the methods of mordanting, dyeing and saddening are combined together in the dyeing of wool, thus, for instance, a brown can be dyed by first mordanting with bichrome, then dyeing with camwood and saddening in the same bath with copperas. The shades obtained are fairly fast and will stand milling. The disadvantages of this process are the same as those attached to the dyeing and saddening in one bath.
Now we come to the last method of dyeing wool with mordant and colours, that in which the operation is carried out in one bath. This can only be done in those cases where the colour lake that is formed is somewhat soluble in dye-liquors, which usually have slightly acid properties; or where the affinity between the two bodies (colouring matter and (p. 077) mordant) is too great. This method can be carried out in, for instance, dyeing a cochineal scarlet with tin crystals, a yellow from fustic and alum, a black from logwood and copperas and bluestone, a red from madder and bichrome, and the dyeing of the Alizarine colours by the use of chrome fluoride, etc.
The shades obtained are usually not so deep as those got by the mordanting and dyeing process, but are frequently nearly so. In some cases, as in dyeing with fustic or logwood, it gives rather brighter colours, due to the fact that the tanning matters present in the dye-stuffs is not fixed on the wool, as is the case with the mordanting method, but is retained in the dye-bath. For dyeing with logwood and copperas or bluestone the process is not a good one, as it does not give as full shades as by the ordinary process. For dyeing with the Alizarine colours, using chrome fluoride as the mordant, it can be applied with fair success. There are advantages in the saving of time and labour and in the amount of steam required, all of which are important items in dyeing.
It is rather troublesome to match off by this process, but it can be done. For light shades the process will be found very useful, as these cost less than by any other process. The dye-baths may be retained for future use, although in process of time they become too dirty for use, when they must be thrown away.
#Level Dyeing.#--The first condition for successful dyeing is that the fibres to be treated are absolutely clean. A careful washing is not enough for this purpose. Cleanliness is undoubtedly the condition which the fibre must possess to enable the dye to hold on and not to come off the fibre, this latter causes a loss of dye-stuff, soils the whites, and gives rise to trouble between the dyer and finisher; it is also the condition for making the dye go on the wool evenly. The (p. 078) washing must be done at the boil, so that the fibre is well wetted out and all the air bubbles adhering to it are driven out. But this is not enough; it must be accompanied by a scouring operation, not only in the case of fibres of which the dyer does not know whether they have been scoured, but also when they have already been scoured and bleached. The kind of scouring that the fibres receive in this case need only be of a comparatively light character, but it must never be omitted, even for dark shades, as the traces of grease which the fibre contains are the causes of nearly irremediable stains in the dyeing operations. Even in dyeing black wool it is of the greatest importance to have the fibre suitably scoured.
The fatty matters which the fibre contains may belong to the components of the fibre itself and be natural matters, but in the case of wool yarns and cloths they are mostly dressing oils, from which the dyer cannot be too anxious to free the wool before dyeing. Some practical methods of preparatory treatment of the fibres before dyeing may therefore be described here with advantage.
Cotton is boiled off at actual boiling heat for two hours, with 8 per cent. of its weight of carbonate of soda and a little soft soap, which treatment is sufficient for dark colours.
For light colours it is necessary that the cotton be bleached. Wool is scoured with soda and soap in the proportion of 10 lb. soda and 2 lb.
Ma.r.s.eilles soap for 100 lb. wool. Silk is scoured by boiling for one and a half hours in a boiling bath with 30 per cent. of its weight of soap. For light colours a second boiling should be given, with 15 per cent.
The careful cleaning of wool previous to dyeing is of exceptional importance. Raw wool is cleaned with carbonate of soda and ammonia. For 50 lb. wool to be cleaned 6 lb. carbonate of soda and 1-1/2 lb. (p. 079) ammonia are added to a bath of 150 gallons water. The wool is laid down in it for twenty minutes at 35 C., taken up, squeezed, treated for fifteen minutes in another bath, with 5 lb. carbonate of soda and then rinsed. The first bath must be renewed as often as possible, because it contains all the impurities. In the case of woollen yarn 30 lb. require two tubs of 40 gallons capacity. The first tub is to contain 35 gallons water and 2 lb. ammonia at 10 Be. After working the skeins for three minutes in it they are left to stand for fifteen minutes, then wrung out, and the operation is repeated in the second tub. Finally, the yarn is rinsed several times in soft water.
Woollen piece goods are treated in a large wooden tub at 40 C. with 4 lb. carbonate of soda and 2 lb. carbonate of ammonia for 80 lb.
material. The pieces are moved about for twenty minutes, laid down in the bath overnight, again turned for ten minutes and hydro-extracted.
They may also be handled for forty minutes in a bath of 2 oz. ammonia for 100 lb. wool at 60 C., and then for twenty minutes in clear water at 60 C.
After wetting or preparatory treatment, it will be best to proceed immediately to dyeing; if the fibres be left in a heap for too long a time, there is danger that they may become heated, or at least that the moisture may be irregularly distributed by the occurrence of partial drying, causing an uneven fixation of the colour in the first stages of dyeing. The first two conditions of successful dyeing are, therefore, a suitable wetting out and scouring. The dyer, however, must not be less careful to see that the dye-bath is what it ought to be.
Whenever possible the dye-stuff must be dissolved separately, or at least the bath not entered before the dye-stuff is well dissolved.
Artificial dye-stuffs require particular attention to this point, because the presence of undissolved particles is the cause of (p. 080) irregularities, such as streaks, or, at least, specks. The solution is mostly made hot as follows: After pouring water at 180 F. upon the dye-stuff, stir gently, strain through flannel or through a very fine sieve, and pour more water upon the residue until nothing more is dissolved. As is well known, the artificial dye-stuffs often contain insoluble matter, resins, etc. It is therefore advisable to use only soft water for this operation.
The solutions of artificial dye-stuffs are ordinarily made at the rate of 1 to 5 lb. per 10 gallons of water, 2 lb. being the proportion mostly employed. This depends more or less on the solubility of the dye-stuff. Old solutions sometimes contain crystals of the dye-stuff which have separated out. These should be redissolved by heating before the solution is used. But it is best to make only such a quant.i.ty of solution as will suffice for immediate requirements.
With paste colours care should be taken to keep them in closed vessels in such a manner that they will not become hard by evaporation, and they should not be kept in any place where they are likely to freeze in winter time. In such an event it is not an uncommon circ.u.mstance for the casks or other vessels containing them to burst, with a consequent loss of dye-stuff. Before any of the paste is withdrawn from the cask, it is advisable to stir well up with a wooden stirrer.
In adding dye-stuff during the actual dyeing operation, it is advisable to add the dye-stuff to the bath in two or three portions, always taking out the goods before adding each lot of dye-stuff, and stirring up the contents of the bath before re-entering the goods.
Another important condition of obtaining a level dyeing is to proceed slowly, beginning with a weak bath at a moderate temperature, and rising gradually to a boil. If necessary to r.e.t.a.r.d the dyeing from the commencement, then an a.s.sistant mordant is added to the dye-bath, in the shape of soda crystals or phosphate of soda for the benzidine (p. 081) colours on cotton; bisulphate of soda or Glauber"s salt in dyeing with azo colours or acid colours on wool; or tartar may be used in most cases with good effect, causing the wool to have a softer feel. Finally, the evenness of the dyeing is much increased by the frequent turning over of the material in the dye-bath, so managing this in the case of wool as to avoid felting.
When dyeing with a mordant, the dyer should see that the mordanting operation is thoroughly well done, for as much care is required for the mordanting as for the actual dyeing; in fact, if anything, the mordanting should be done with rather more care, as if it be at all defective no amount of care in the following dyeing operations will ensure a level dyeing. Chrome mordanted wool should be dyed without delay, as it is rather sensitive to light, especially the yellow sort, which gradually changes into the green sort of chromed wool.
One peculiarity of dyed wool is that it will continue to take up colour after it is removed from the dye-bath, especially if it contains any of the hot dye-liquor, therefore it is very desirable to wash the wool as soon as possible after its removal from the dye-bath.
It is best, however, not to take the wool out of the hot bath, but to leave it in until the bath becomes cool, and then to take it out, by this means the colour becomes deeper and more solid looking, and is faster on the wool.
One cause of irregular dyeing may be mentioned, as it is occasionally met with, namely, the presence of foreign fibres in the goods, cotton in wool fabrics, and even of different varieties of the same fibre.
All dyers know that dead or immature cotton will not dye up properly, a fact or defect more especially met with in indigo dyeing than probably in any other colour. Then wools from different breeds of sheep vary considerably in their dyeing power. Fine wools take up more colour (p. 082) than coa.r.s.e, and, consequently, even from the same bath, will come out a deeper shade; if a fabric, therefore, contains the two kinds of cotton, or the two kinds of wool, they will not dye up evenly.
In the preceding sections brief notes have been given about the princ.i.p.al methods of dyeing wool, with some indications of the dyes which can be used under each method. In the succeeding sections will be given a number of recipes showing how, and with what dye-stuffs, various colours, shades and tints can be dyed upon wool. It will be understood that these recipes are applicable to all kinds of woollen fabrics, loose wool, slubbing, yarns in any form, woven worsted or woollen cloths, felts of any kind, etc., all these different forms require handling in a different way; it would not do, for instance, to treat a quant.i.ty of slubbing in the same way as a piece of worsted cloth, while hanks of yarn require a different mode of handling to a quant.i.ty of hat bodies. The different kinds of woollen fabrics require to be dealt with in different kinds of machines, and this has already been dealt with in the chapter on Dyeing Machinery and Dyeing Manipulations.
To describe and ill.u.s.trate the application of all the various woollen dye-stuffs, whether of natural or artificial origin, and to show the great variety of shades, etc., which can be obtained with them, either all one or in combination, would require not one, but many volumes of the size that this present work is intended to be. Therefore, it becomes necessary to make a selection from the best-known and most used of the various dyes, and ill.u.s.trate their application by a number of recipes, all of which, unless otherwise stated, are intended to be for 100 lb. weight of woollen material of any kind. It may also be pointed out that, as a rule, the recipes may be applied to the dyeing of fabrics made with other animal fibres than the wool of the sheep, as, for alpaca, cashmere, camel-hair, hare or rabbit fur, etc., (p. 083) inasmuch, as, with the exception of silk, all animal fibres practically possess the same dyeing properties.
It will be convenient to point out here that a very large proportion of the shades dyed on wool and other fabrics are obtained, not by the use of a single dye-stuff, although this should always be done, whenever possible, but by the combination of two or more dye-stuffs together in various proportions. It is truly astonishing what a great range of shades can thus be dyed by using two or three dyes suitably mixed together, and one of the things which go to making a successful dyer and colourist is the grasping of this fact by careful observation, and working accordingly. Dyers will find much a.s.sistance in acquiring a knowledge of colour and colour mixing from the two little books on _Colour_, by Mr. George H. Hurst, and the _Science of Colour Mixing_, by Mr. David Paterson, both issued by Messrs. Scott, Greenwood & Co., the publishers of the present work.
#Black on Wool.#--Until within a comparatively recent time black was dyed on wool solely by the use of logwood, combined with a few other natural dye-stuffs, such as fustic, indigo, etc., but of late the researches of colour chemists have resulted in the production of a large number of black dyes obtained from various coal-tar products.
These have come largely into use, but still, so far they have not been able to entirely displace logwood, chiefly on the score of greater cost, the use of the natural dye still remaining the cheapest way of producing a black on wool; although the blacks yielded by some of the coal-tar black dyes are superior to it in point of intensity of colour and fastness to scouring, acids and light, as well as being easier to dye.
Blacks may be obtained from logwood by several methods, either by previous mordanting of the wool or by the stuffing and saddening methods, or by the one-bath process. The following recipes will (p. 084) show how these various methods are carried out in practice:--
_Chrome Logwood Black_.--The wool is first mordanted by boiling for one and a half hours with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. of sulphuric acid, working well the whole of the time. It is not advisable to exceed the amounts of either the bichromate or the acid here given, these quant.i.ties will result in a full bloomy black being obtained, but any excess gives rise to greyish dull blacks, which are undesirable. After mordanting rinse well with water, when the goods will be quite ready for the dye-bath.
The dyeing is done in a bath made from a decoction of 40 lb. of good logwood. It is perhaps preferable to start cold or only lukewarm, raise to the boil and work for one hour, then lift, rinse well, and pa.s.s into a boiling bath made from 1 lb. of bichromate of potash and 1/4 lb. of sulphuric acid for half an hour. This extra chrome bath fixes any colouring matter which may have been absorbed by the wool but not properly fixed by the mordant already on, it leads to fuller shades which are faster to rubbing and milling.
The mordanting bath may be kept standing and used again for fresh lots of wool, in which case it is only necessary to add 2-1/2 lb. of bichromate of potash and 1 lb. sulphuric acid to the bath for each additional lot of wool that is being dealt with. Old mordant baths work rather better than new ones, but the use cannot be prolonged indefinitely, there comes a time when the bath gets too dirty to use and then it must be thrown away.