Luckily I had been reading about the cottage and everything else concerning the Burns family while I dressed. I knew already how Burns"s father built the tiny house with his own hands; how the night that Robert was born, a fearful storm came up which threatened to sweep away the whole biggin; and how the poor young mother had to be hustled off to a neighbour"s cottage. How little the poor couple guessed that the baby born "in thunder, lightning and in rain" would make of the clay biggin a world"s shrine, to be bought by the nation for four thousand pounds.
Maybe it cost five pounds to build. How I did want to believe that from one of the bowls kept on a shelf in that room of the wall-bed Burns had eaten his porridge as a child. Of course that would be almost too good to be true; but he did eat his porridge in that room, anyhow--and often wanted more than he could get. What brains of genius have been nourished on porridge and oaten cake in this country of ours! I felt more than ever proud of my Scottish blood as I stood in that low-ceilinged cottage; and I wondered if Sir S. had the same glorious thrill. I didn"t know if he had ever before come to Ayr; but I did know that his first home on our own island of Dhrum must have been much like this--just a clay biggin with a but and a ben. He, too, was born a genius. He, like Burns, knew grinding poverty. He, too, was taken up by great ones and dropped again, for he has told me so.
Once Sir S. was near me for a minute--without his Aline--and I did want some word to prove that I was still his princess, he my knight. But all I got from him on the subject was: "Well, do you think the knights "notice" that you"re a princess?"
I stared, bewildered. Then I remembered our conversation in the car, before Mrs. West came and annexed the front seat. Of course I knew he meant the American boys.
"They notice that I"m like my mother," said I.
"Oh, is that all?" And he laughed. Then Mrs. West flitted over to ask if we oughtn"t to go to the museum.
It is a pathetic little museum, with intimate relics and countless pictures of Burns, each one making him look entirely different from all the others. By and by we went on to the monument, the strange cla.s.sic temple that had loomed out of the twilight as we came to Ayr. The road from town to the monument was the way of Tam o" Shanter"s wild ride, or almost the same; only there"s a tram-line now to spoil the romance, if one chooses to let it be spoiled. As for me, I"d scorn to let romance be broken by an object so dull as a tram-car. When things are ugly I simply make them transparent for my eyes, and see through them as if they didn"t exist.
I had to do a good deal of this juggling in the neighbourhood of the monument; for the booths bristling with Burns souvenirs, and the tea gardens where crowds drink to Burns"s memory in ginger pop and fizzy lemonade, would be rather dreadful if they were not funny. I"m sure, though, Burns"s sense of humour would make him laugh a mellow, ringing laugh: if he could see those thousands of bottles of temperance drinks being emptied in his honour.
It was good to escape from the gay, meretricious gardens to the graveyard of Alloway Auld Kirk, where Tam o" Shanter"s witches danced, and where Burns"s father lies buried. There was peace, too, where the Brig o" Doon arched its camel-back over a clear brown, rippling stream.
There, through the singing of the water, through the playing of an old blind fiddler sc.r.a.ping the tune of "Annie Laurie," I could hear the true Burns song, the music of his thoughts sweetly ringing on, to keep the world young, as the bright water leaps on forever to give its jewels to the sea.
We went back from Alloway to Ayr, and lunched early in our own hotel.
The boys lunched early too, and when we started out on the next stage of our Burns pilgrimage, we saw their red car panting in front of the hotel. I had heard no talk of new plans for Basil and Mrs. West, but they must have talked things over with each other or Sir S., for Blunderbore was vibrating healthily between the Gray Dragon and the Red Prince. I could have jumped for joy when I saw Blunderbore, and kissed him on his bonnet. Already in imagination I was in my old place on the front seat of our car, beside my knight; but the first words of Sir S.
s.n.a.t.c.hed me off again and left me dangling in mid-air.
"Sure your motor"s all right again?" he inquired of Basil.
I held my breath for the answer.
"Yes, thanks, quite all right."
"You know"--and Sir S. turned to Mrs. West--"we"re delighted to keep you as our guests."
"You _are_ good," she answered, "but--we mustn"t wear out our welcome."
"Don"t be afraid of that." (I did so wish I could have been sure whether his tone was eager or only cordial! Probably Mrs. West was wishing the same.)
"Thanks a thousand times, but we"ll sample our own car for a while. We shall meet and exchange impressions. And perhaps--after Edinburgh----"
She broke off, leaving the rest to our imagination. Mine was so lively that it gave my heart a pinch. I could see what she meant as clearly as if she had held a photograph before my eyes: me, with mother, waving good-byes from a hotel door; she and her brother transferred permanently to the Gray Dragon, the Row forgotten; Blunderbore"s nose turned meekly back toward Carlisle; Mrs. James out of the picture. Just for an instant I could have cried. Then I reminded myself for the twentieth time that in a few days _nothing_ can matter, because I shall have my own dear, beautiful mother, who will make up to me for everybody and everything else.
I don"t know how I should have borne it if Mrs. James had wanted to sit in front, but the angel didn"t. And presently there was I in my old place, feeling as if weeks instead of hours had elapsed (yes "elapsed"
is the most distance-expressing word) since I last sat shoulder to shoulder with Sir S.
That feeling of long-ago-ness made me a little shy, and to save my life I couldn"t think of a word to say except about the weather; so I said nothing at all, and he said the same. By and by I began to count. When I had got up to five hundred, and still he hadn"t spoken, I knew I should certainly burst if nothing happened before a thousand.
"Well?" he murmured at last in an isolated way.
"Five hundred and eighty-six," I counted aloud inadvertently.
"Eh?" said he.
"I was just seeing how many I should have to count before you spoke."
"H"m! I"m afraid you do find me a dull companion after all your latest acquisitions. But what can I do? In a way I"m your guardian temporarily.
I can"t let you run about the country alone with hordes of young men. I may seem selfish; but I have done my best for you since other and younger knights came upon the field."
"That _is_ hypocritical!" I flung at him. "You shed me on others because you like the society of a grown-up woman better than mine; and then you pretend you"re doing it for my sake. I _like_ that!"
"I thought you would like it. That"s why I did it."
"Not because you wanted to talk to Mrs. West?"
"Oh, of course I like talking to her. Don"t you like talking to her brother, and all that drove of boys?"
"Why--yes, I like talking to them well enough, but----"
"But what?"
"You ought to _know_, without telling."
"I don"t know. Are we playing at cross purposes?"
"How can I tell, if you can"t?"
"How can I, if you _won"t_?"
"Oh, don"t let"s argue about nothing! Let"s be happy--perfectly happy."
"In other words, if milk has been spilt, don"t water it with salt tears, but leave it to collect cream."
"Yes. Why doesn"t everybody treat spilt milk like that?"
"It doesn"t occur to poor worried humanity. It wouldn"t occur to me in other society--Princess."
"Thank you, Sir Knight." I couldn"t resist nestling my shoulder closer to his in joy and grat.i.tude: and then an odd thing happened. A tiny shock of electricity seemed to flash through his shoulder to mine. I never felt anything like it before. It made my heart stop and afterward beat fast. I had to talk of something irrelevant in a hurry, so I grabbed at Burns: and indeed we ought not even for a minute to have talked of any other subject on this road, which we were exploring only because of Burns. Not that the high road between Kilmarnock and Dumfries wouldn"t be worth seeing if Burns had never set foot on it, and if no other great ones had pa.s.sed that way. It would be worth travelling for itself alone, for every mile has its own special beauty. And the more I think of Scotland the more I tell myself she is like a wise connoisseur (I hope that"s the word!) who goes ahead of others to a sale of splendid pictures, and secures the finest for herself at a bargain. Several of the prettiest pictures hang on the blue-and-gold walls of the Burns country.
We came suddenly into view of Arran when the car had spun us along an up and down road to Ochiltree and c.u.mnock. It was I who, looking back, first caught sight of the jagged pinnacles boldly painted in purple on a far, pale sky. I didn"t know what they were, but Sir S. put on the brakes quickly, and let us stop to look. He remembered the cliffs, and gazed at them with a light in his eyes which would have told me, if I hadn"t known before, that he had been homesick for Scotland all these rich, successful years, whether consciously or not.
By and by we came to the Nith, which afterward we did not leave; and through a green glen wound the "sweet Afton" Burns wrote of and loved almost as dearly as he loved its elder brother. Here in this valley, companioned with his own starry thoughts, he walked and rode, happy in his fellowship with Nature, even though poverty made him an exciseman at fifty pounds a year. He had to put down smuggling with one hand and write his glorious poetry with the other, as Mrs. James expressed it. At New c.u.mnock he would spend a night sometimes on his way to Ellisland, his "farm that would not pay," near Dumfries.
Always following in the track of Burns, the Gray Dragon dashed up and down short, steep, switchbacked hills (which must have tried any steed of ancient days except a witch"s broomstick) and whisked us into Sanquhar, the "sean cathair" or "old fortress" of earliest Gaelic times, now snappily called "Sanker." There Queen Mary rested, going to Dundrennan after the terrible battle of Langside; there Prince Charlie marched; and there was a monument of granite to the Covenanters Cameron and Renwick. Burns must have dreamed of Queen Mary when duty brought him to Sanquhar; and Renwick would have been a person to appeal to him, because of his youth and good looks, and because the "pretty lad" was the last martyr to the Covenant. But perhaps he thought most of all of that Admirable Crichton who was born at Sanquhar, not in the castle of his wild and brilliant family, but at Eliock House. Burns would maybe have liked him not so much for taking his degree at St. Andrews when he was twelve, or for knowing ten languages and many sciences, as for wandering adventurously over the world, winning tilting matches at the Louvre, and the love of ladies at Padua and Venice.
Mrs. James had bought a book with quotations from a diary of Burns, and she read out to us while the car stopped at Sanquhar what he had written about one specimen day:
"Left Thornhill at five in the morning. Rode four miles to Enterkinfoot and made a call: thence three miles to Slunkerford with another call: thence six miles to Sanquhar, where there were twenty official visits to be made: thence two miles to Whitehall, with two more calls: and a return journey to Sanquhar, finishing the day"s work at seven in the evening."
Poor poet. But he had always his glowing fancies to keep his heart warm.
We felt almost guilty because we had no horrid calls to make, as he had; nothing to do but enjoy the scene made magical by his love of it: the valley with its near green hills and distant peaks of Galloway and Lowther; the river girdling wooded reaches with a belt of silver, or burrowing through deep rocky channels, purple as heather petrified. It was all as different from yesterday"s Crockettland as if we had crossed the ocean from one to the other.
At Carronbridge we saw the woods of Drumlanrig on our right hand; and Sir S. told me about the Duke of Queensberry who spent all his money in building the splendid castle, slept in it one night, saw the bills for it, cursed himself and it, and went away with nothing left but a broken heart. "Deil pyk out the een of him who sees this," he wrote on the back of the biggest bill.
There"s a Burns museum at lime-tree-shaded Thornhill, but I refused to go in and stare at an original cast of his skull. I do think a man, especially a great genius, ought to be allowed the privacy of his own skull!