We rejoined the main camp next day just ahead of a big snowstorm that must have made travel all but impossible. Then for five days we rode out, in snow, sleet, and hail. But we were entirely happy, and indifferent to what the weather could do to us now.
MOISTURE, A TRACE
Last fall I revisited Arizona for the first time in many years. My ultimate destination lay one hundred and twenty-eight miles south of the railroad. As I stepped off the Pullman I drew deep the crisp, thin air; I looked across immeasurable distance to tiny, brittle, gilded b.u.t.tes; I glanced up and down a ramshackle row of wooden buildings with crazy wooden awnings, and I sighed contentedly. Same good old Arizona.
The Overland pulled out, flirting its tail at me contemptuously. A small, battered-looking car, grayed and caked with white alkali dust, glided alongside, and from under its swaying and disreputable top emerged someone I knew. Not individually. But by many campfires of the past I had foregathered with him and his kind. Same old Arizona, I repeated to myself.
This person bore down upon me and gently extracted my bag from my grasp.
He stood about six feet three; his face was long and brown and grave; his figure was spare and strong. Atop his head he wore the sacred Arizona high-crowned hat, around his neck a bright bandana; no coat, but an unb.u.t.toned vest; skinny trousers, and boots. Save for lack of spurs and _chaps_ and revolver he might have been a moving-picture cowboy.
The spurs alone were lacking from the picture of a real one.
He deposited my bag in the tonneau, urged me into a front seat, and crowded himself behind the wheel. The effect was that of a grown-up in a go-cart. This particular brand of tin car had not been built for this particular size of man. His knees were hunched up either side the steering column; his huge, strong brown hands grasped most competently that toy-like wheel. The peak of his sombrero missed the wrinkled top only because he sat on his spine. I reflected that he must have been drafted into this job, and I admired his courage in undertaking to double up like that even for a short journey.
"Roads good?" I asked the usual question as I slammed shut the door.
"Fair, suh," he replied, soberly.
"What time should we get in?" I inquired.
"Long "bout six o"clock, suh," he informed me.
It was then eight in the morning--one hundred and twenty-eight miles--ten hours--roads good, eh?--hum.
He touched the starter. The motor exploded with a bang. We moved.
I looked her over. On the running board were strapped two big galvanized tanks of water. It was almost distressingly evident that the m.u.f.fler had either been lost or thrown away. But she was. .h.i.tting on all four. I glanced at the speedometer dial. It registered the astonishing total of 29,250 miles.
We swung out the end of the main street and sailed down a road that vanished in the endless gentle slope of a "sink." Beyond the sink the bank rose again, gently, to gain the height of the eyes at some _mesas_.
Well I know that sort of country. One journeyed for the whole day, and the _mesas_ stayed where they were; and in between were successively vast stretches of mesquite, or alkali, or lava outcrops, or _sacatone_ bottoms, each seeming, while one was in it, to fill all the world forever, without end; and the day"s changes were of mirage and the shifting colours of distant hills.
It was soon evident that my friend"s ideas of driving probably coincided with his ideas of going up a mountain. When a mounted cowboy climbs a hill he does not believe in fussing with such nonsense as grades; he goes straight up. Similarly, this man evidently considered that, as roads were made for travel and distance for annihilation, one should turn on full speed and get there. Not one hair"s breadth did he deign to swerve for chuck-hole or stone; not one fractional mile per hour did he check for gully or ditch. We struck them head-on, bang! did they happen in our way. Then my head hit the disreputable top. In the mysterious fashion of those who drive freight wagons my companion remained imperturbably glued to his seat. I had neither breath nor leisure for the country or conversation.
Thus one half hour. The speedometer dial showed the figures 29,260. I allowed myself to think of a possible late lunch at my friend"s ranch.
We slowed down. The driver advanced the hand throttle the full sweep of the quadrant, steered with his knees, and produced the "makings." The faithful little motor continued to hit on all four, but in slow and painful succession, each explosion sounding like a pistol shot. We had pa.s.sed already the lowest point of the "sink," and were climbing the slope on the other side. The country, as usual, looked perfectly level, but the motor knew different.
"I like to hear her shoot," said the driver, after his first cigarette.
"That"s why I chucked the m.u.f.fler. Its plumb lonesome out yere all by yourself. A hoss is different."
"Who you riding for?"
"Me? I"m riding for me. This outfit is mine."
It didn"t sound reasonable; but that"s what I heard.
"You mean you drive this car--as a living----"
"Correct."
"I should think you"d get cramped!" I burst out.
"Me? I"m used to it. I bet I ain"t missed three days since I got her--and that"s about a year ago."
He answered my questions briefly, volunteering nothing. He had never had any trouble with the car; he had never broken a spring; he"d overhauled her once or twice; he averaged sixteen actual miles to the gallon. If I were to name the car I should have to write advt. after this article to keep within the law. I resolved to get one. We chugged persistently along on high gear; though I believe second would have been better.
Presently we stopped and gave her a drink. She was boiling like a little tea kettle, and she was pretty thirsty.
"They all do it," said Bill. Of course his name was Bill. "Especially the big he-ones. High alt.i.tude. Going slow with your throttle wide open.
You"re all right if you got plenty water. If not, why then ketch a cow and use the milk. Only go slow or you"ll git all clogged up with b.u.t.ter."
We clambered aboard and proceeded. That distant dreamful _mesa_ had drawn very near. It was scandalous. The aloof desert whose terror, whose beauty, whose wonder, whose allure was the awe of infinite s.p.a.ce that could be traversed only in toil and humbleness, had been contracted by a thing that now said 29,265.
"At this rate we"ll get there before six o"clock," I remarked, hopefully.
"Oh, this is County Highway!" said Bill.
As we crawled along, still on high gear--that tin car certainly pulled strongly--a horseman emerged from a fold in the hills. He was riding a sweat-covered, mettlesome black with a rolling eye. His own eye was bitter, and likewise the other features of his face. After trying in vain to get the frantic animal within twenty feet of our _mitrailleuse,_ he gave it up.
"Got anything for me?" he shrieked at Bill.
Bill leisurely turned off the switch, draped his long legs over the side of the car, and produced his makings.
"Nothing, Jim. Expaicting of anything?"
"Sent for a new gra.s.s rope. How"s feed down Mogallon way?"
"Fair. That a bronco you"re riding?"
"Just backed him three days ago."
"Amount to anything?"
"That," said Jim, with an extraordinary bitterness, "is already a gaited hoss. He has fo" gaits now."
"Four gaits," repeated Bill, incredulously. "I"m in the stink wagon business. I ain"t aiming to buy no hosses. What four gaits you claim he"s got?"
"Start, stumble, fall down _and_ git up," said Jim.
Shortly after this joyous _rencontre_ we topped the rise, and, looking back, could realize the grade we had been ascending.
The road led white and straight as an arrow to dwindle in perspective to a mere thread. The little car leaped forward on the invisible down grade. Again I anch.o.r.ed myself to one of the top supports. A long, rangy fowl happened into the road just ahead of us, but immediately flopped clumsily, half afoot, half a-wing, to one side in the brush, like a stampeded hen.
"Road runner," said Bill, with a short laugh. "Remember how they used to rack along in front of a hoss for miles, keeping just ahead, lettin" out a link when you spurred up? Aggravatin" fowl! They got over tryin" to keep ahead of gasoline."
In the white alkaline road lay one lone, pyramidal rock. It was about the size of one"s two fists and all its edges and corners were sharp.