In October the travellers were back in Florence, but this time only for a short stay of some six weeks, since it was decided that Rome would be more suitable to Mrs. Browning"s failing health during the winter. On November 24 they reached Rome, and for the next six months were quartered, as in the winter of 1853-4, at No. 43 Via Bocca di Leone.
Here it was that they heard the first mutterings of the storm which was to burst during the following year and to result in the making of Italy.
_To Miss E.F. Haworth_
Casa Guidi: Sat.u.r.day [about October 1858].
You do not come, dearest f.a.n.n.y, though I am here waiting, and I begin to be uneasy about you. Do at least write, do. We have been here since Tuesday, and here is Sat.u.r.day, and every morning there has been an anxious looking forward for you....
Miss ---- wrote to me in Paris to propose travelling with us, which Robert lacked chivalry to accede to; and, in fact, our ways of journeying are too uncertain to admit of arrangements with anyone beyond our circle. For instance, we took nine days to get here from Paris, spending only one day at Chambery, for the sake of Les Charmettes and Rousseau. Robert played the "Dream" on the old harpsichord, the keys of which rattled in a ghastly way, as if it were the bones of him who once so "dreamed." Then there was the old watch hung up, without a tick in it. At St. Jean de Maurienne we got into difficulties with diligences, and submitted to being thrown out for the night at Lanslebourg, I more dead than alive, and indeed I suffered much in pa.s.sing the mountain next morning. Then again, on the sea, we had a _burrasca_, and the captain had half a mind when half-way to Leghorn to turn back to Genoa.
Pa.s.sengers much frightened, including me, a little. A wretched Neapolitan boat, with a machine "inclined to go to the devil every time the wind went anywhere," as I heard a French gentleman on board say afterwards. Altogether we were so done up after eighteen hours of it, that we stayed at Leghorn instead of going on straight to Florence.
Still, now I seem to have got over fatigue and the rest--and we keep our faces turned undeviatingly to Rome. Mdme. du Quaire having carefully apprised M. Mignaty that we left Paris on the thirteenth, our friends here seem to have made up their minds that we had perished by land or water, and Annunziata"s poor sister had pa.s.sed three days in tears, for instance.
Now, dearest f.a.n.n.y, let me confess to you. I have not brought the bonnet. A bonnet is a personal matter, and I would not let anyone choose one for _me_. Still, as you had more faith in man (or woman), I would have risked even displeasing you, only Robert would not let me. He said it was absurd--I "did not know your size;" I "could not know your taste;" in fact, he would not let me. Perhaps after all it is better.
You shall see mine, which is the last novelty, and I will tell you the results of having investigated the bonnet question generally. I was told at a fashionable shop that hats might be worn out of one"s teens; but in Paris, let me hasten to add, you don"t see hats walking about except on the heads of small girls. In Rome it may be otherwise, as at the seaside it was. Bonnets are a great deal larger, but you shall see.
Oh, so glad I am to be back--so glad, so glad!
And so happy I shall be to see you, dearest f.a.n.n.y, whom, till now, I have not thanked for the pretty, pretty sketch. I recognised the persons at a glance, you threw into them so much character....
Your ever most affectionate E.B.B.
_To Miss Browning_
[Florence: about November 1858.]
Robert"s uncertainty about Rome, my dearest Sarianna, has led him into delay of writing. We dropped here upon summer, and a few days afterwards, just as suddenly, the winter dropped upon _us_. Such wonderful weather, such cold, such snow--enough to strangle one. The rain has come, however, to-day, and though everything feels wretched enough, and I am languid about schemes of travelling, we talk of going next week, should nothing hinder.
"If it be possible After much grief and pain."
Peni would rather stay, I believe. His Florence is in his heart still.
Robert will have told you about his bust,[59] which is exquisite in the clay, and will be exhibited in London in the marble next May. The likeness, the poetry, the ideal grace and infantile reality are all there. I am so happy to have it. I set about teasing Robert till he gave it to me, and, as he really loses nothing thereby, I accepted at once, as you may suppose. I would rather have given up Rome and had the bust; but the artist was generous, and would only accept what would cover the expenses, twenty-five guineas. He said he "would not otherwise do it for us, as he asked in the first place to be allowed to make the sketch in clay, and would not appear to have laid a trap for an order." So we are all three very happy and grateful to one another--which is pleasant. I feel the most obliged perhaps of the three--obliged to the other two--and ought to be, after the napoleons dropt in Paris, Sarianna!
Oh no; the sea was necessary from Genoa. The expense of the journey would have been very much increased if we had taken the whole way by land, and it was a great thing to escape that rough Gulf of Lyons. The journey to Rome will be rendered easy to Robert"s pocket by the extraordinary chance of Mr. Eckley"s empty carriage, otherwise the repeated pulls might have pulled us down too low.
Peni will write to you. He loves his nonno and you very much--tell nonno; and my love goes with my message.
May G.o.d bless both of you! Love to M. Milsand.
Your affectionate BA.
_Robert Browning to Miss Browning_
Rome, 43 Bocca di Leone: Friday, November 26, 1858 [postmark].
Dearest Sis,--You received a letter written last thing on Wednesday, 18th. We started next day with perfectly fine mild weather and every sort of comfort, and got to our first night"s stage, Poggio Bagnoli, with great ease; with the same advantages next day, we pa.s.sed Arezzo and reached Camuscia, and on Sat.u.r.day slept at Perugia, having found the journey delightful. Sunday was rainy, but just as mild, so Ba did not suffer at all; we slept at Spoleto. Rain again on Monday. We reached Terni early in the day in order to go to the Falls, but the thing was impossible for Ba. Eckley, his mother-in-law, and I went, however, getting drenched, but they were fine, the rain and melted snow having increased the waters extraordinarily. On Tuesday we had fine weather again to Civita Castellana; there we found that on the previous day, while we were staying at Terni, a carriage was stopped and robbed in the road we otherwise should have pursued. They said such a thing had not happened for years. On Wednesday afternoon, four o"clock, we reached Rome, with beautiful weather; so it had been for some four out of our seven days. Ba bore the journey irregularly well; of course she has thus had a week of open air, beside the change, which always benefits her. We always had the windows of the carriage open. We pa.s.sed Wednesday night at an hotel in order to profit by any information friends might be able to furnish, but we ended by returning to the rooms here we occupied before, of which we knew the virtues--a blaze of sun on the front rooms--and absolute healthiness. Rents are enormous; we pay only ten dollars a month more than before, in consideration of the desire the old landlady had to get us again. To anybody else the price would have been 20 more--60 in all--for which we are to pay 40. The Eckleys took _good rooms_ and pay 1,000 (210 or 15) for six months! One can"t do _that_.
The best is that they have thoroughly cleaned and painted the place, and everything is very satisfactorily arranged. We take the apartment for four months, meaning to be at liberty to go to Naples if we like. We have no fire this morning while I write, but it is before breakfast and Ba may like the sight of one, tho" I rather think she will not. Rome looks very well, and I hope we shall have a happier time of it than before. Many friends are here and everybody is very kind. The Eckleys were extravagantly good to us, something beyond conception almost. We have seen Miss Cushman, Hatty,[60] Leighton, Cartwright, the Storys, Page and his new (third) wife, Gibson, beside the Brackens and Mrs.
Mackenzie; and there are others I shall see to-day. Ferdinando was sent on by sea with the luggage, and met us at the gate. It has been an expensive business altogether, but I think we shall not regret it. I daresay you have mild weather at Paris also. These premature beginnings of cold break down and leave the rest of the year the warmer, if not the better for them. Dearest Sis, write and tell me all the news of your two selves. Do you hear anything about Reuben"s leaving London? Anything of Lady Elgin? How is Madame Milsand? I will send you the last "Ath." I have received, but break off here rather abruptly, in order to let Ba write. Good-bye. G.o.d bless you both. Kindest love to Milsand.
Yours ever affectionately R.B.
_E.B. Browning to Miss Browning_
My dearest Sarianna,--I don"t know whether this letter from Rome will surprise you, but we have done it at last. Our journey was most prosperous, the wonderful inrush of winter which buried all Italy in snow, and for some days rendered the possibility of any change of quarters so more than doubtful (I myself gave it up for days), having given way to an inrush of summer as wonderful. The change was so pleasant that I bore with perfect equanimity the lamentations of certain English acquaintances of ours in Florence, who declared it was the most frightful and dangerous climate that could be, that now one was frozen to death and the next day burnt and melted, and that people couldn"t be healthy under such transitions. But all countries of the south are subject to the same of course wherever there is a southern sun, and mountains to retain snow. Even in Paris you complain of something a little like it, because of the sun. We left Florence in a blaze of sunshine accordingly, and there and everywhere found the country transfigured back into summer, except for two days of April rain. Of the kindness of our dear friends Mr. and Mrs. Eckley I am moved when I try to speak. They humiliate me by their devotion. Such generosity and delicacy, combined with so much pa.s.sionate sentiment (there is no other word), are difficult to represent. The Americans are great in some respects, not that Americans generally are like these, but that these could scarcely be English--for instance, that mixture of enthusiasm and simplicity we have not. Our journey was delightful and not without some incidents, which might have been accidents. We were as nearly as possible thrown once into a ditch and once down a mountain precipice, the spirited horses plunging on one side, but at last Mr. Eckley lent us his courier, who sate on the box by the coachman and helped him to manage better. Then there was a fight between our oxen-drivers, one of them attempting to stab the other with a knife, and Robert rushing in between till Peni and I were nearly frantic with fright. No harm happened, however, except that Robert had his trousers torn. And we escaped afterwards certain banditti, who stopped a carriage only the day before on the very road we travelled, and robbed it of sixty-two scudi.
Here at Rome we are still fortunate, for with enormous prices rankling around us we get into our old quarters at eleven pounds a month. The rooms are smaller than our ambition would fain climb to (one climbs, also, a little too high on the stairs), but on the whole the quiet healthfulness and sunshine are excellent things, particularly in Rome, and we are perfectly contented....
Rome is so full that I am proceeding to lock up my doors throughout the day. I can"t live without some use of life. Here must come the break.
May G.o.d bless you both! Pen"s love with mine to the dear nonno and yourself.
BA.
_To Mr. Ruskin_
Rome, 43 Bocca di Leone: January 1, 1859.
My dear Mr. Ruskin,--There is an impulse upon me to write to you, and as it ought to have come long ago, I yield to it, and am glad that it comes on this first day of a new year to inaugurate the time. It may be a good omen for _me_. Who knows?
We received your letter at Florence and very much did it touch me--us, I should say--and then I would have written if you hadn"t bade us wait for another letter, which has not come to this day. Shall I say one thing?
The sadness of that letter struck me like the languor after victory, for you who have fought many good fights and never for a moment seemed to despond before, write this word and this. After treading the world down in various senses, you are tired. It is natural perhaps, but this evil will pa.s.s like other evils, and I wish you from my heart a good clear n.o.ble year, with plenty of work, and G.o.d consciously over all to give you satisfaction. What would this life be, dear Mr. Ruskin, if it had not eternal relations? For my part, if I did not believe so, I should lay my head down and die. Nothing would be worth doing, certainly. But I am what many people call a "mystic," and what I myself call a "realist,"
because I consider that every step of the foot or stroke of the pen here has some real connection with and result in the hereafter.
"This life"s a dream, a fleeting show!" no indeed. That isn"t my "_doxy_." I don"t think that nothing is worth doing, but that everything is worth doing--everything good, of course--and that everything which does good for a moment does good for ever, in _art_ as well as in morals. Not that I look for arbitrary punishment or reward (the last least, certainly. I would no more impute merit to the human than your Spurgeon would), but that I believe in a perpetual sequence, according to G.o.d"s will, and in what has been called a "correspondence" between the natural world and the spiritual.
Here I stop myself with a strong rein. It is fatal, dear Mr. Ruskin, to write letters on New Year"s day. One can"t help moralising; one falls on the metaphysical vein unaware.
Forgive me.
We are in Rome you see. We have been very happy and found rooms swimming all day in sunshine, when there is any sun, and yet not ruinously dear.
I was able to go out on Christmas morning (a wonderful event for me) and hear the silver trumpets in St. Peter"s. Well, it was very fine. I never once thought of the Scarlet Lady, nor of the Mortara case, nor anything to spoil the pleasure. Yes, and I enjoyed it both aesthetically and devotionally, putting my own words to the music. Was it wise, or wrong?