Fold on dotted lines.
Fold A, B, and C, in this order, and paste, leaving D for flap to be pasted down when the envelope has been filled with seeds.
DIMENSIONS OF MARKERS
The right marker is 3-1/2 in. long. The distance from head to central point of notch is 1/2 in. The distance between notches, or from the central point of one notch across the marker to the central point of the other, is 3/8 in. The width is 1/2 in. and the thickness 1/8 in.
The middle marker is 4-1/2 in. long, 1/2 in. wide, and 1-1/16 in. thick.
Allow about 5/8 in. for the pointing at the end.
The left marker is rather larger and stronger; it, too, may be pointed and not notched, so acting as a good pot-marker. Make it 5 ins. long, 7/8 in. wide, and 3/15 in. thick. The line between the notches measures 5/8 in. and is 1 in. from the top of the marker.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Such labels as these, made of thin wood, serve as plant labels as well as being useful in the outdoor garden]
A GARDEN SIEVE--MATERIALS
2 small boards 13 x 2-1/2 x 1/2 in.
2 small boards 7 x 2-1/2 x 1/2 in.
2 strips of wood 12 x 1/2 x 1/4 in.
2 strips of wood 8 x 1/2 x 1/4 in.
Fine wire netting 13 x 8 in.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Josephine"s box had too limited a drainage area]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Make a flat like this one of Eloise"s and so provide plenty of drainage s.p.a.ce]
Make the framework of a box without a lid, using the 13-inch pieces for the sides and 7-inch pieces for ends, putting the ends between the side pieces. Use the wire netting for the bottom of the box, nailing it on with the strips of wood. Paint the sieve with two coats of dark green paint.
A BULB FLAT
The dimensions of the box are the same as those for the sieve except for the depth, which is three inches instead of two and a half inches. Of course the bottom is wood with three drainage holes bored in it. A flat may be constructed without the drainage holes as shown in the cut. In this case make the bottom of small pieces of wood leaving an inch s.p.a.ce between each piece. This is Eloise"s kind of a bulb box.
A GATHERING BASKET FOR FLOWERS
The materials needed are:
8 spokes, 10 ins. long, of number 6 reed.
3 weavers of number 2 reed.
12 weavers of number 3 reed.
31 spokes, 20 in. long, of number 4 reed.
_Directions_.--Split four spokes of number 6 reed exactly in the centre, and slip the remaining four through the slits in the first group.
[Ill.u.s.tration: This is the basket made and used by Katharine. It is a gathering basket just right for fruit and short-stemmed flowers]
Double a number 2 weaver and slip the loop over the upper vertical group and with the pairing weave go around each group four times. Next, separate the spokes in groups of two and continue the pairing weave until four more rows have been woven in. Then separate the spokes by ones and weave until the diameter is 4-1/2 in.
Cut all off that remains of the number 2 weaver, and insert 3 weavers of number 3 reed. Continue with the triple weave to a diameter of 9 in.
Cut off the ends of the spokes and insert 31 spokes, 20 in. long, of number 4 reed; one on each side of the spokes, except the first; in this instance insert but one.
Use the side which has been next the weaver for the inside of the basket, letting rough ends come on the outside of the basket. Turn the spokes up, and hold in place with one row of quadruple, weave over three spokes and back of one, using the number 3 reed. With the same reed put in eleven rows of plain weave, over one spoke and under the next. Next, one row of quadruple and follow with seven rows of double weave, over two and under one, and finish with one row of quadruple weave.
For the first row of the border carry number 1 spoke back to number 2 spoke, or the next spoke at the right, and out; number 2 spoke back of number 3, and out. Continue once around the basket.
For the second row carry number 1 spoke over number 2 and 3, and down; number 2 over 3 and 4 and down, and so on around.
For the third row carry number 1 over number 2 and down; number 2 over number 3 and down. This may be continued until you have formed a roll over the entire edge.
If handles are desired, on each side of the basket insert a piece of number 9 reed for the foundation of these. The end of a number 3 weaver is woven in at the left of the foundation under the third row from the top of the basket, and the long end of the weaver is twisted around the foundation to the other side of the handle. Here it is pushed down inside the basket on one side of the handle and over again on the other side of the handle, three rows from the top, making a loop inside. The weaver is then laid close beside the first twist and follows it across to the opposite side. Now it goes in under the third row on the left of the handle and out on the right side. Each row of twisting must follow close beside the last. Six or seven rows will cover the foundation. The end is fastened off by bringing it inside the basket again where it is cut off.
This flower basket may be made without the handles. But they add much to it without being a great deal of extra work.
A SUNDIAL
Take two pieces of the wood you have chosen:
A, 6-1/2 x 6-1/2 x 1/4 in. and B, 7 x 7-1/2 x 1/4 in.
_Construction_.--True up each piece to the given dimensions, and sandpaper carefully. Be careful to stroke the wood always with the grain--never across the fibres.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Dee"s sundial kept fairly accurate time. It is a real ornament to the garden.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: Gnomon pattern just one-half actual size]
Next make a shadow-piece, or gnomon, as it is called. Get a thin piece of the same kind of wood as is used in piece A, and lay it out as follows: With the fibres running in the direction AB, beginning at point A construct an angle equal to the lat.i.tude of the place where the dial is to be used. For example, if the lat.i.tude of a town is 41 degrees construct the angle D 41 degrees, or if it is 42 degrees, let D be 42 degrees. Then cut from A to C, and sandpaper carefully. Take the wooden shadow-piece and fasten it to the centre of piece A. Fasten by two brads or small nails about 3/4 inch or 1 inch long, or glue it. Place piece A over piece B so that a margin of 1/4 in. will be left on all sides.
Place A so that the fibres will run at right angles to B to prevent the boards from warping. These two pieces may be fastened together by driving a brad in each corner, or gluing, or both.
POT-REST
Use almost any kind of wood, as white wood, cherry or white oak.
Two pieces of wood 8 x 1/2 x 1-1/2 in. are needed for the cross pieces.
These should be planed. There are needed also four little pieces as feet or pads. The dimensions of these should be 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/2 in.
To make this stand, draw a line across the two long pieces 4 inches from either end. Lay off two other lines parallel to this 5/8 inch to the right and left. Transfer these lines down the edges by the aid of the try square. Saw on the inside of these lines down one half the thickness, or 1/4 inch. Chisel out for a half-lap joint.
[Ill.u.s.tration: A pot-rest like the above is worth making because it lasts]
The sawing and chiseling should be done carefully. It is necessary to saw on the inside of the lines or a loose joint will be had. Doubling the pa.s.sage of the saw through the wood will often make the difference of 1/8 inch.
After these are made to fit, the upper ends may be rounded down by chisel and compa.s.ses, or bevelled, using the plane.
Use 7/8-inch brads or finishing nails, four in each pad or foot to fasten pads to the arms. The pads should project 1/8 inch from ends and sides. To finish the work nicely so the rest will both look well and stand exposure, apply a suitable stain. Allow it to stand at least thirty minutes. Then rub down with a cloth to an even stain. It is better to allow the stain to stand a day or so. This gives time for the stain to set before applying the wax. Otherwise, some of the stain will be loosened and removed when waxing and a lighter shade of stain will result.
PLANT JARDINIeRE