The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz

Chapter of the Cathedral consists of Persons of Quality who are oblig"d to make Proof of their n.o.bility. The Canons have the Prerogative of chusing their Bishop, who like all the Prelates of _Germany_ is a Sovereign Prince. He dwells at _Augsbourg_, tho" he ought to reside at _Dillingen_. The Episcopal Palace is old, and not very commodious: It joins to the Cathedral, which is a _Gothic_ gloomy unwieldy Fabric, but its Ornaments are very rich.

The Count _Maximilian de Torring-Seefeldt_ is Steward of the Elector"s Houshold, a Minister of State, and Knight of the _Golden Fleece_. This n.o.bleman who is advanc"d in Years, is good-natur"d and civil, speaks little, is naturally grave, not fond of Pomp, and lives retir"d in the middle of a Court, but when he makes any Entertainment does it with Grandeur. He never once abandon"d the Elector _Maximilian-Emanuel_ his former Master, but follow"d him in his Fortunes both good and bad.

The Count _Sigismond de Thirheim_ is Great Chamberlain, a Minister of State, and Grand Croix of the Order of St. _George_. He is very tall, and tho" his Air is not the most affable, he is courteous and civil. He lives very n.o.bly, and does the Honours of the Court very handsomely; consequently he is generally beloved and esteem"d. He was Governor of the Elector, who, contrary to most Princes that are not apt to retain an Esteem for those who once had the Care of their Education, gives great Proofs of his Regard for the Count _de Thirheim_.

The Count _Maximilian de Fugger_ is Grand Marshal[114]. As he does not live at _Munich_, I have nothing particular to tell you of him.

The Count _Maximilian de Preysing_ Master of the Horse, President of the Chamber of Finances, a Minister of State, and Grand Croix of the Order of St. _George_, is a very polite n.o.bleman, but serious and grave to the last degree. "Tis difficult for any Man to be more attach"d to his Religion, to have more Candor, and to be more upright than this Minister. His Probity has brought Envy upon him, but it has procur"d him the Elector"s intire Confidence, of which however the Count makes no farther Advantage than is requisite for his Master"s Business. He is accus"d of being close-fisted, and of dissuading the Elector from giving Gratuities; but "tis agreed that he is very charitable to the Poor. "Tis a hard matter for a Minister who has the Direction of the Finances to please every body, and he is commonly the b.u.t.t of public Censure.

The Count _de Rechberg_ Great Huntsman[115], Minister of State, President of the Council of War, Lieutenant-General, and Grand Croix of the Order of St. _George_, is Commander in Chief of the Elector"s Forces: He accompany"d the late Elector to _France_ where he acquir"d the Reputation of an experienc"d skilful General.

_Ignatius-Joseph_ Count _de Torring_ is a Minister of State, Grand Master of the Artillery, and a Grand Croix of St. _George_. He followed the late Elector into _France_, and after that Prince was restor"d he went as Minister Plenipotentiary to the Imperial Court, where he negotiated the Marriage of the present Elector with the Archd.u.c.h.ess, youngest Daughter to the late Emperor _Joseph_.

I cou"d tell you of many other Persons of Distinction at the Court of _Bavaria_, only I fear that being too particular wou"d tire your Patience.

The Ministers who bear the greatest Sway are the Counts _Maximilian de Preysing_ and _de Torring_, and M. _d"Unertel_. The first is Director of the Finances; the second has the Province of Foreign Affairs; and the third takes care of Affairs Domestic and Military. These three Ministers are the Arbiters of _Bavaria_, and to them the Tribunals of the several Provinces must apply.

_Bavaria_ is divided into four Cantons or Provinces, _viz._ the Cantons _of Munich_, _Burghausen_, _Landstrut_ and _Straubingen_. Each of these Provinces has a Regency or Parliament; and an Appeal lies from Sentences therein pa.s.s"d to the Elector"s Council of State.

"Tis certain that _Bavaria_ is one of the best States in the Empire. "Tis said that it brings in seven Millions of Florins, and I have been a.s.sured by Persons who have Opportunities of being inform"d of the State of the Finances, that there was a time when the late Elector received eleven Millions _per Ann._ The Riches of _Bavaria_ are owing to the Exportation of Salt and Corn, and to the Consumption of the Beer brew"d in the Country, which is as good as any in the World. _Tirol_, and the Country of _Saltzbourg_, have almost all the Corn which they spend from _Bavaria_, and the Elector has a Florin for every Sack that is exported.

Another thing which is a Treasure to _Bavaria_ is the Fir-Trees, a Wood that serves for every Use that can be imagin"d, whether for Building, or for Houshold-Stuff. There is not a Province in the Empire where Provisions are cheaper, and in the mean time there"s a vast Home-Consumption; for besides that the _Bavarians_ love good Eating and Drinking, the Country is very populous; and "tis computed that the Inhabitants of _Munich_ alone are above 40,000.

Of all the Sovereigns in _Europe_, next to the King of _France_, the Elector of _Bavaria_ has the finest Pleasure-Houses, for which he may thank the Elector his Father who had a wonderful good Fancy and Judgment.

NYMPHENBOURG a short League from _Munich_ is a charming Place. The Castle is to be seen a great way off by reason of its Situation in the middle of a great Plain, so that from the Apartments of the second Story one discovers a vast Tract of Country, and an infinite number of Rural Beauties that are in the Neighbourhood of _Munich_. _Mary-Adelaide de Savoy_ (Mother to _Maximilian-Emanuel_) who was extremely fond of the Arts and Sciences, and knew them perfectly well, was the Person who laid the Foundations of that Castle. The Man that she employ"d to build it was an _Italian_ Architect whom she sent for out of _Italy_ for the purpose. But all this Palace consisted only of one great Pavilion. _Maximilian-Emanuel_ thinking the Castle too small, caused several Mansions to be added to it, together with fine Stables and grand Gardens; in short, he put the whole into that magnificent Condition we see it in at this day. His most serene Electoral Highness lets the Pavilion stand in pure respect to the Memory of his Mother who built it, but "tis pity he does; for "tis much higher than the rest of the Edifice, and is no good Ornament to the main Building. In order to give you a more perfect Idea of this House, I will tell you that it looks towards a great and magnificent Ca.n.a.l terminated at each end by a s.p.a.cious Basin adorn"d with Water-works and double Rows of Trees on each side which form the Avenues. We enter into the Castle by an Ascent of Marble Steps: The first Room we come to is a very great high Salon adorn"d with Architecture of Plaister of _Paris_ very well executed.

From each side of this Salon there is a Pa.s.sage into several Apartments of which I shall not stop to give you the Detail, because I don"t think it in my power to convey a suitable Idea to you of the Richness of the Furniture, and all the fine things that are in it. Imagine only that the late Elector who had an exquisite Taste, and a n.o.ble Soul, spar"d no Cost to adorn these Apartments. I pa.s.s to the Gardens which one enters from the Great Hall by a Descent of Marble Steps. The first thing that strikes the Eye is a Parterre of a vast Extent, at the Entrance of which there is a great Bason ornamented with a Group of Figures of mill"d Lead gilt with Water-Gold representing _Flora_ receiving Flowers from _Nymphs_ and _Cupids_. At the end of the Parterre there is one of the most agreeable Woods in the World, which is cut by three Walks in form of a Goose"s Foot.

The middlemost fronts the great Pavilion of the Castle, and has a large Ca.n.a.l in the middle of it of which one can"t see the end: "Tis terminated by a fine Cascade form"d by several Blocks of Marble, and adorn"d with fine Statues. The second Walk on the right hand leads one to the Mall which forms a Semi-Circle, and is one of the finest and longest I ever saw. At the Entrance of this Mall there is a Pavilion call"d _PaG.o.debourg_ (the _Castle of the PaG.o.de_;) "tis two Stories high, and built in form of the _PaG.o.des_ Temples. I believe there never was any thing prettier. All the Furniture of this little Palace is _Indian_, of a charming Contrivance and Elegancy; and the whole is so well laid out that notwithstanding the smallness of the House, the Elector has every Convenience in it that can be desir"d. Over-against _PaG.o.debourg_ on the other side of the Ca.n.a.l in the third Walk is _Badenbourg_ (the _Castle of Baths_) which is a more considerable Building, and has all the Beauty of the Modern Bagnios. The Baths are s.p.a.cious and lin"d with Marble. There is an Apartment consisting of several Pieces adorned with Stucco, and Pictures representing _Venus_ in the Bath, _Diana_ in the Water with her Nymphs, and the other Subjects of the Fable. The whole Apartment glitters with Gold, and the Furniture of it is rich, and of a charming Fancy. This beautiful House is surrounded with fine Pieces of Water adorned with Cascades and Statues. These Baths wou"d most certainly deserve a particular Description, and I am angry with myself for not being able to give it.

"Tis certain that next to the Gardens of _Versailles_, there is none so magnificent as those of _Nymphenbourg_; which is a Place that Art and Nature seem to have joined their Forces in order to render n.o.ble and agreeable.

The Castle of _Schleisheim_ is a more regular Building than that of _Nymphenbourg_, and makes so grand an Appearance that I don"t know any House in _Germany_ that can compare with it. The great Stair-Case and the Salon in the large Apartment are the only Pieces in their kind. They are fac"d with Marble, and painted in a most correct and beautiful manner.

_Taco_, _Furstenriet_ and _Starenberg_ are Houses fit for the Solacement of a Great Prince, and will be Testimonies to Posterity of the Elector _Maximilian-Emanuel_"s grand and happy Taste.

Of all the Elector"s Houses _Nymphenbourg_ is that where the Court resides most. It is as well a Hunting-House as a Pleasure-House, by reason of a Park in the Neighbourhood which is eight Leagues in compa.s.s, and cut out into a great number of fine long Roads. Here the Elector comes to rouze the Stag; and there is a little Park adjoining to the Gardens, which, as well as the adjacent Fields, abounds with Pheasants, Partridges, and all other Game of that sort.

When the Court is at _Nymphenbourg_ the Electress has a Drawing-Room there three times a Week where there is Gaming, and when that is over the Ladies sup with their Electoral Highnesses, who sometimes admit Gentlemen of their Court to their Table, but commonly all Foreigners. They who prefer taking the Air to Gaming, find open Calashes every Evening drawn by two Horses, at the bottom of the Steps on the side of the Garden: A Gentleman drives the Calash, two Ladies ride in it, and a Gentleman stands behind.

And such as prefer the Water find very neat Gondolas finely gilt upon the Ca.n.a.l at their Service; so that there is no want of any thing to add to the Pleasures of all sorts in this inchanting Place.

Were I to enumerate to you all the various Pleasures of this Court I should never have done. For the present I shall confine myself to these already mentioned. I am resolved to set out in three or four days for _Stutgard_. I shall lie at _Augsbourg_, and at _Ulm_. A Frost which has held for a Month without ceasing has made the Roads so hard that I hope I shall roll along finely. I expect to hear from you at _Stutgard_. Pray take care that I be not disappointed, and believe that I am very sincerely, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XV.

_SIR_, _Stutgard, Jan. 14, 1730._

There is nothing remarkable between _Munich_ and _Augsbourg_ except it be the fine Abbey of FURSTENFELDT, which is in possession of the _Bernardin_ Fryars. It was founded by _Lewis the Severe_ Duke of _Bavaria_ to attone for his Wickedness in putting _Joan_ of _Brabant_ his Wife unjustly to death. The History of _Bavaria_ relates the Fact thus: _Joan_ was a very beautiful Princess. Her Husband who was doatingly fond of her being obliged to take a Journey, put her under the Guard of one of his Aunts.

While he was gone _Joan_ wrote frequently to her Husband, and sometimes to his Prime Minister and Favourite. One day she put her Letters into the hands of a Domestic, charging him to deliver them as they were directed; but the Man made a Mistake, and gave the Letter which was for the Duke to his Favourite, and that which was for the Minister to the Duke. _Lewis_ thought that his Wife"s Style was too obliging to a Subject, and was even mad with Jealousy. He first kill"d his Favourite, and then taking horse posted to _Donawert_ where his Wife was. He came to the Castle in the Night-time, murder"d the Porter with his own hand, put his Aunt and all with whom he had left his Wife in charge to Death; and then like another _Herod_, caused the unfortunate _Joan_ to be beheaded. The Night after this barbarous Action, the Heirs of _Lewis_"s Head turn"d gray, tho" he was but twenty-eight Years old; which Accident made him sensible of his Guilt and of the Innocence of his Wife. As his Barbarity was great, so was his Repentance. He went on foot to _Rome_ to beg the Pope"s Absolution for his Sins, and obtain"d it on condition that he wou"d cause a Church to be built, and found a Monastery in his Dominions. _Lewis_ returning from _Rome_ founded the Abbey at _Furstenfeldt_. The first Establishment was only for eight Fryars; but the Piety of the Princes of _Bavaria_ having wrought upon them to bestow their Favours upon this House, it now maintains thirty Fryars and an Abbot, whom the Monks have the Prerogative to chuse out of their own Body. These good Fathers are actually erecting a very stately Church, and they enjoy all the Conveniences of Life.

The Country between _Munich_ and _Augsbourg_ is level and intermix"d with Woods and Plains. AUGSBOURG which is a Bishop"s See, and an Imperial City, is the Capital of _Swabia_, and one of the biggest and handsomest Towns in _Germany_. A small Branch of the _Leck_ pa.s.ses thro" it, and supplies it with plenty of Water. The Streets of _Augsbourg_ are broad, strait and lightsome; the Houses well built, and many of "em full of Paintings. The Inhabitants look upon _Augustus_ to be the Founder of their City. "Tis true that Emperor sent a Colony thither, but the Town was founded before.

It is not said what Name it went by before the Name of _Augusta Vindelicorum_ was given it to distinguish it from the other Towns that bore the Name of _Augusta_. The clearing up of this difficulty is what I shall leave to the Antiquarians, and confine my self to the Transactions at _Augsbourg_ for about two hundred Years past. What will render this City for ever famous is the Confession of Faith which the Protestant Princes presented here to the Emperor _Charles_ V. in the year 1530. Tho"

the Protestants were at that time very powerful in _Augsbourg_ they cou"d not keep their ground, for they were drove out by the _Bavarians_; but _Gustavus Adolphus_ restored them in 1632, since which time they have kept their Footing there, and share the Government with the Roman Catholics. In 1687, the Emperor, _Spain_, the United Provinces, and the Electors of _Saxony_, _Brandenbourg_, and the Palatinate concluded that famous League at _Augsbourg_ against _Lewis_ XIV. who was beginning to inforce the Claim of the d.u.c.h.ess of _Orleans_ his Sister-in-law to the Succession of the Elector Palatine _Charles-Lewis_, who was that Princess"s Brother. In 1690, _Joseph_ Archduke of _Austria_ King of _Hungary_, the eldest Son of the Emperor _Leopold_, was consecrated and crown"d King of the _Romans_ at _Augsbourg_, at which Ceremony the Emperor, the Empress, the Electors of _Mentz_, _Cologn_, _Triers_, _Bavaria_, and the Palatinate were personally present.

In 1703, the Elector _Maximilian_ of _Bavaria_, made himself Master of _Augsbourg_ in one Week"s time. This City had demanded and obtained a Neutrality, but having afterwards received an Imperial Garrison the Elector made use of that Pretence to lay Siege to it. He caused the Fortifications to be demolish"d, foreseeing, no doubt, that he should not be able to keep the Place. _Augsbourg_ was set free again by the Battle of _Hochstet_, and still enjoys its Freedom under its own Magistrates, the Bishop having no Authority in the City as to Temporals. The present Bishop is of the Family of _Neubourg_, and Brother to the Elector Palatine. This Prince has the same Goodness of Temper which is so natural to all his Family. As his Bishop.r.i.c.k is not one of the most considerable in _Germany_, so his Court is none of the biggest, but his Houshold is well regulated, and every thing conducted in it with Order and Splendor.

The Chapter of the Cathedral consists of Persons of Quality who are oblig"d to make Proof of their n.o.bility. The Canons have the Prerogative of chusing their Bishop, who like all the Prelates of _Germany_ is a Sovereign Prince. He dwells at _Augsbourg_, tho" he ought to reside at _Dillingen_. The Episcopal Palace is old, and not very commodious: It joins to the Cathedral, which is a _Gothic_ gloomy unwieldy Fabric, but its Ornaments are very rich.

The most considerable Building is the Town-house, a very substantial Pile built all of Freestone except the Portico, which is of Marble. The Rooms are very fine, and the great Hall especially is to the last degree magnificent. The Walls are cover"d with Painting, being such Emblems and Devices as have relation to the Government. Nothing can be more beautiful than the Cieling which consists all of Compartments whose Frames are carv"d and gilt in an extraordinary manner, the whole enrich"d with Pictures and other Ornaments perfectly well dispos"d.

Before the Town-house there"s a very stately Fountain, where, among other fine Figures of Bra.s.s, the Statue of _Augustus_ which is represented in a most n.o.ble Att.i.tude is highly esteem"d.

The City of _Augsbourg_ is in my Opinion something like _Antwerp_ with regard to the s.p.a.ciousness of the Streets and the Substantialness of its Buildings; and formerly when the _Venetians_ were Masters of all the Commerce, it resembled it in Trade; for _Augsbourg_ was then the Staple for Merchandize, which was from thence transported to a great part of _Europe_. But since _London_ and _Amsterdam_ are become the Warehouses of the whole World, and the Commerce of _Venice_ decays, the greatest Trade of _Augsbourg_ consists in Goldsmith"s Wares, with which this City furnishes _Germany_, _Poland_, and in general almost all the North. These Wares are much cheaper here than elsewhere, and when the Patterns are furnish"d People are well serv"d. Notwithstanding the Decay of its Commerce there are several very rich Families; but whether any can do what _Fugger_ did to the Emperor _Charles_ V. is a Question. That Monarch pa.s.sing thro" _Augsbourg_ lodg"d at _Fugger_"s House, who entertain"d him like an Emperor. The Fewel he burnt in every Chimney was Cedar, and after the Repast, which was extraordinary sumptuous, _Fugger_ took a Bond for a very considerable Sum which the Emperor ow"d him, and threw it into the Fire.

The n.o.bility a.s.semble commonly every Evening at the _Three Kings_ Inn where I quarter. There"s a very fine Hall well lighted, where they game, club for a Supper, and after Supper dance. Be not scandaliz"d that the n.o.bility have their a.s.sembly at an Inn, it being one of the best Houses in _Germany_ and the most superb Inn in _Europe_. There"s very good Attendance. I have supp"d at it twice, and one cannot be better accommodated in any House whatsoever.

From _Augsbourg_ I came to ULM another Imperial City. Tho" all the Country is even, yet "tis very tiresome to Travellers because of the Pavement of the Causeys; but Thanks to the Snow which has levell"d the Ways, I have not been much incommoded; tho" on the other hand I had like to have been lost in the Snow, such a quant.i.ty of it having fallen for two Days that one could not distinguish the Roads. I found my self at a Post-Stage where my Guide, tho" he was a Man that had grown grey in the Business of Postilion upon the same Road, did not know the Way. I was in danger every Moment of tumbling into some Ditch, when just as we entered a certain Valley my Postilion sounded a Horn to give notice to any Carriages or Horses that might happen to meet us to make way, when a Voice from the Hollow call"d out to the Postilion, _Who"s that? Stephen? Oh!_ cry"d the Postilion, _Is it you, Christopher? G.o.d be thank"d that I met with you_!

Then turning towards me, he said with an Air of Satisfaction, _Now you are out of all Danger, for here"s a blind Man that will conduct us to the Place we are going to_. I thought the Droll jok"d with me, but we had not gone many Yards farther before I really saw a poor Wretch who could not see, yet offer"d to be my Guide, and promis"d he wou"d conduct me very well. I abandon"d my self to him, and he walk"d so fast before my Chaise that the Horses follow"d him in a gentle Trot till we came safe to the Stage. There he told me that "twas fifteen Years ago that he lost his Sight by the breaking of an Imposthume in his Eyes, after having suffer"d such horrible Pains for two Months that he bless"d himself for the Loss of his Sight; so that when I ask"d him if he was not very much concern"d at it, he said that at first it made him melancholy for some time, but that he always comforted himself by the Remembrance of the Torture he had undergone in the Loss of his Sight, and that he thought it were much better to be blind and to have his Health than to see, and suffer the Pains that he had endur"d; but that now he was so us"d to his Condition it gave him no Concern. Indeed, when I ask"d him, if he should not be very glad to recover his Sight? he said, Yes, if it were possible; but that if he must undergo the same Pains to recover it as he had felt in the Loss of it, he had rather by a thousand times continue blind. When I told him of my Surprize that he should find out the Way better than those who see, he told me that since he had been blind he came regularly on Sundays and Saints Days to the Place where we were to hear Ma.s.s, and that therefore the Road was become very familiar to him. He added, that he sometimes went alone to beg three or four Leagues from his Village, which was a quarter of a League from the hollow Way where I met with him. I sent the Man away, after giving him some Relief; and could not but admire the divine Providence, which tho" it had afflicted the poor Wretch with what to me seems more terrible than Death, gave him Strength to bear his Misfortune with Patience.

The City of _Ulm_ is not above half as big as _Augsbourg_, but is much better fortify"d. The _Danube_ which washes its Walls, becomes navigable at this Place, and a Boat goes from hence every Week for _Vienna_, which is a great Ease to People who are not in a Condition to lay out much Money; for it costs but a _Creutzer_, which is one Penny a _German_ Mile.

Tho" the City of _Ulm_ maintains a very numerous Garison, and is very well fortify"d, and furnished with a good a.r.s.enal, the Elector _Maximilian_ of _Bavaria_ took it by Surprize in 1702, it being a Place necessary for him to secure his Dominions on that side, and to facilitate the Pa.s.sage of the _French_ Troops that were to join his Army. General _Thungen_ robb"d him of this Conquest the 10th of _Sept._ 1704, after about a Week"s Siege.

Then it was that _Ulm_ became again subject to its Magistrates who are all _Lutherans_. The Catholics cannot enjoy Offices, but have several Churches. This City drives a great Trade in Linnen, but few of the Gentry live here except the Patricians who are not more sociable than those of _Nuremberg_ and _Augsbourg_. The Burghers and the Women in particular go dress"d like those at _Augsbourg_. To see them go to and come from Church is next kin to seeing a Masquerade, and "tis certainly one of the most diverting Sights in this City, where really I did not give my self time to be tired, for I set out again the very next Day after I came, and arrived in this Town, where I have now rested my self a couple of Days.

STUTGARD lies in the middle of a Valley surrounded with Vineyards. "Tis pretty large, has Streets broad and strait, but the Houses are of Timber.

"Tis the Capital of the Duchy of _Wirtemberg_, and was formerly the Residence of the Sovereigns of the Country; but _Eberhard-Lewis_ the present Duke of _Wirtemberg_ established his Seat some Years ago at[116]

_Ludwigsbourg_, a new City and a new Palace of his own building.

The Duke"s Castle is an old Structure of Freestone, compos"d of four Piles of Building, flank"d at each Angle by a Tower. The Walls of it are wash"d by Ditches which give it the disagreeable Air of a Prison. The d.u.c.h.ess who is the Duke"s Wife, and Sister to the Margrave of _Baden-Dourlach_, has an Apartment in this Palace. You know that this Princess and her Husband don"t live well together. The Prince[117] about twenty Years ago preferr"d a Mistress to her[118], who certainly has neither the Beauty, nor the Merit of the d.u.c.h.ess. The Princess is remarkably patient under the Indifference of a Husband, and the Contempt of the most haughty Rival that ever was. The frequent Visits paid her by her only Son are all the Comfort she has. The Court neglects her, no body dares to go near her, and whoever pays the d.u.c.h.ess the Respects that are naturally due to her, is sure to incur the merciless Hatred of the Mistress. I may be able perhaps to give you a farther Account of this Princess and her Rival when I have been at _Ludwigsbourg_, whither I propose to go to-morrow, and where I hope for a Line from you.

_I am_, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XVI.

_SIR_, _Ludwigsbourg, Feb. 2, 1730._

The Duke of _Wirtemberg_ is a Prince of a middling Size, and before he grew so fat was very well shap"d. He is genteel, affable, and well-belov"d, and few Princes treat their Courtiers with more Familiarity.

He has been one of the best Dancers of his Time. He also sits perfectly well on horseback, and performs all bodily Exercises with infinite Gracefulness, and incomparable Dexterity. He takes pleasure sometimes in driving his own Coaches, and I have seen him drive eight Horses without a Postilion, and manage them with as much Ease as if there was but one Horse in the Harness. He is a Prince that loves Magnificence, is generous, gallant, and amorous. Tho" "tis above twenty Years that he has kept one and the same Mistress, he is as pa.s.sionately fond of her, and gives as shining Proofs of it as ever. During the last War his most Serene Highness commanded the army of the Empire on the _Upper Rhine_. He has an only Son marry"d to _Henrietta_ of _Prussia_, Daughter of the Margrave _Philip_, Brother to _Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_. This young Prince is called the hereditary Prince. He is short of Stature, but handsome. He has one of the best Tempers that can be desir"d in a Sovereign, being humane, good-natur"d, affable, and civil. It may be said that the Father and the Son are the two politest Men at the Court of _Wirtemberg_. The Father has spent several Years in _Holland_, _Lorrain_, _Geneva_, _Turin_, _Italy_ and _France_. When he return"d from his Travels he went and marry"d at _Berlin_. He has an only Daughter who is very amiable. The hereditary Prince is vastly fond of Grandeur, Dancing, Plays and Music: He fatigues himself very much, and commonly rides seven or eight Horses in a Morning.

His tender Const.i.tution and the little Care he takes of it make me apprehensive he will not live to be an old Man[119].

The hereditary Princess has an Air of Grandeur and Majesty suitable to her Rank. She is tall and handsome, has a n.o.ble Mien, and tho" she is not a regular Beauty, "tis certain that she has a very good Look. She is extremely grave, and does not seem to take a great share in the Pleasures of the Court. She seems to be most of all taken with Dress, and her Apparel is not only splendid but well-fancy"d. Her Royal Highness, which is a t.i.tle given her because she is the Daughter of a King"s Brother, is extremely gracious and civil to all Mankind, but particularly to those whom she knew at the Court of _Prussia_. She does me the honour to discourse with me sometimes. I find she thinks very justly, and that her Sentiments are very agreeable to her Birth. This Princess is of the _Calvinist_ Religion, and she keeps a Chaplain who preaches to her in her own Apartment; so that now while the Prince _Alexander de Wirtemberg_ is here, there are three Chapels in the Castles of as many different Religions.

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