264. _Melted b.u.t.ter._--Put into a stewpan two ounces of b.u.t.ter, not too hard, also a good tablespoonful of flour, mix both well with a wooden spoon, without putting it on the fire; when forming a smooth paste, add to it a little better than half a pint of water; season with a teaspoonful of salt, not too full, the sixth part that of pepper; set it on the fire, stir round continually until on the point of boiling; take it off, add a teaspoonful of brown vinegar, then add one ounce more of fresh b.u.t.ter, which stir in your sauce till melted, then use where required; a little nutmeg grated may be introduced; it ought, when done, to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon, but transparent, not pasty; it may also, if required, be pa.s.sed through a tammy or sieve. If wanted plainer, the last b.u.t.ter may be omitted.
265. _Anchovy Sauce._--Make the same quant.i.ty of melted b.u.t.ter as in the last, but omit the salt, and add three good tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies.
266. _Fennel Sauce._--This is a sauce princ.i.p.ally used for boiled mackerel. Make the same quant.i.ty of melted b.u.t.ter as in the last, to which add a good tablespoonful of chopped fennel; it is usually served in a boat.
267. _Egg Sauce_ is generally served with salt-fish or haddock. Boil six eggs ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them in pieces about the size of dice, put them into a stewpan, with three parts of a pint of melted b.u.t.ter, add an ounce more fresh b.u.t.ter, with a little pepper and salt; keep the stewpan moving round over the fire until the whole is very hot, and serve in a boat.
268. _Shrimp Sauce._--Make the same quant.i.ty of melted b.u.t.ter as before, to which add three tablespoonfuls of essence of shrimps, but omitting the salt; add half a pint of picked shrimps, and serve in a boat. If no essence of shrimps, some anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it as a subst.i.tute.
269. _Shrimp Sauce_ is also very good as follows: Pound half a pint of shrimps, skins and all, in a mortar, and boil them ten minutes in half a pint of water; pa.s.s the liquor through a hair sieve into a stewpan, and add a piece of b.u.t.ter the size of two walnuts, with which you have mixed a good teaspoonful of flour, stir it round over the fire until upon the point of boiling; if too thick, add a little more water; season with a little cayenne, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies; serve very hot; a few picked shrimps might also be served in it.
270. _Caper Sauce._--Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted b.u.t.ter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, add two ounces of fresh b.u.t.ter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the b.u.t.ter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.
271. _Lobster Sauce._--Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted b.u.t.ter in a stewpan, cut up a small-sized lobster into dice, make a quarter of a pound of lobster b.u.t.ter with the sp.a.w.n, as directed; when the melted b.u.t.ter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster b.u.t.ter, stir the sauce round over the fire until the b.u.t.ter is melted, season with a little essence of anchovies, the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; pa.s.s it through a tammy into another stewpan, and add the flesh of the lobster; when hot, it is ready to serve where required. This sauce must be quite red; if no red sp.a.w.n in the lobster, use live sp.a.w.n.
272. _New and Economical Lobster Sauce._--Should you require to use the solid flesh of a lobster for salad, or any other purpose, pound the soft part and sh.e.l.l together (in a mortar) very fine, which put into a stewpan, covered with a pint of boiling water; place it over the fire to simmer for ten minutes, then pa.s.s the liquor through a hair sieve into a basin; put three ounces of b.u.t.ter into a stewpan, into which rub (cold) a good tablespoonful of flour, add the liquor from the lobster, place it upon the fire, stirring until upon the point of boiling, season with a little cayenne, and add a piece of anchovy b.u.t.ter, the size of a walnut; or, if any red sp.a.w.n in the lobster, mix it with b.u.t.ter, as in the last, and add it, with the juice of half a lemon, just before serving. An anchovy pounded with the lobster-sh.e.l.ls would be an improvement, and part of the flesh of the lobster might be served in the sauce.
273. _Lobster Sauce a la Creme._--Cut a small lobster into slices the size of half-crown pieces, which put into a stewpan; pound the soft and white parts, with an ounce of b.u.t.ter, and rub it through a sieve; pour ten spoonfuls of melted b.u.t.ter, and two of cream, over the slices in the stewpan, add half a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little cayenne; warm gently, and when upon the point of boiling, add the b.u.t.ter and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, shake round over the fire until quite hot, when it is ready to serve.
274. _Lobster Sauce simplified._--Put the slices of lobster, as in the last, into a stewpan, with ten tablespoonfuls of milk, add a little pepper, salt, cayenne, two cloves, and half a blade of mace; set it upon the fire, and when boiling, add a piece of b.u.t.ter of the size of two walnuts, with which you have mixed a little flour; shake round over the fire, and when getting rather thick, add two spoonfuls of cream, if handy, and serve very hot.
275. _Beyrout Sauce._--Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with one of Chili vinegar and one of common ditto, a pint of melted b.u.t.ter, four spoonfuls of brown gravy, two of mushroom catsup, and two of Harvey sauce; place it over the fire, keeping it stirred until boiling, then place it at the corner to simmer five minutes, skim well, then place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred until thickish, to adhere to the back of the spoon, when add two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; it is then ready to serve.
The above, although a fish sauce, may be used for meat or poultry, by omitting the anchovy, and adding more Harvey sauce. If no brown gravy, add water and a little coloring.
276. _Oyster Sauce._--Mix three ounces of b.u.t.ter in a stewpan, with two ounces of flour, then blanch and beard three dozen oysters, put the oysters into another stewpan, add beards and liquor to the flour and b.u.t.ter, with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, two cloves, half a blade of mace, and six peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stirring, and boil it ten minutes, then add a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and one of Harvey sauce, pa.s.s it through a tammy over the oysters, make the whole very hot without boiling, and serve. A less quant.i.ty may be made, using less proportions.
277. _Another method._--Put a pint of white sauce into a stewpan, with the liquor and beards of three dozen oysters (as above), six peppercorns, two cloves, and half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes, then add a spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne and salt if required; pa.s.s it through a tammy, or hair sieve, over the oysters, as in the last.
278. _A plainer method._--Blanch three dozen of oysters, which again put into the stewpan, with their liquor (after having detached the beards), add six peppercorns and half a blade of mace; place them over the fire, and when beginning to simmer, add a piece of b.u.t.ter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed sufficient flour to form a paste, breaking it in four or five pieces; shake the stewpan round over the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, and becoming thick, add half a gill of milk, or more if required; season with a little cayenne, salt, pepper, and a few drops of essence of anchovies; serve very hot.
279. _Mussel Sauce._--Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce, using only the liquor of the mussels (not the beards) instead of the oysters, and serving the mussels in the sauce; about four dozen would be sufficient.
280. _Cream Sauce._--Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh b.u.t.ter; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with a wooden spoon (taking it from the fire now and then when getting too hot), until the b.u.t.ter has gradually melted and thickened with the eggs (great care must be exercised, for if it should become too hot, the eggs would curdle and render the sauce useless); then add half a pint of melted b.u.t.ter; stir altogether over the fire, without permitting it to boil, pa.s.s it through a tammy into another stewpan; when wanted, stir it over the fire until hot. This sauce may be served with any description of boiled fish.
281. _Matelote Sauce._--For about a pound-slice of salmon make the following quant.i.ty of sauce: peel thirty b.u.t.ton onions, and put half a teaspoonful of sugar in a quart-size stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and when melted and getting brown, add a piece of b.u.t.ter (the size of two walnuts) and the onions, toss them over now and then until rather brown, then add a gla.s.s of sherry, let it boil, then add half a pint of brown sauce, and a gill of broth, simmer at the corner of the fire until the onions are quite tender, skim it well, and add a few mushrooms, if handy, season with a little salt and sugar, and sauce over any kind of fish where described. The addition of a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies is an improvement. Use where directed.
282. _Matelote Sauce simplified._--Proceed as above respecting the onions, only add a fourth more b.u.t.ter, and fry them a little browner; then add a gla.s.s of sherry and two teaspoonfuls of flour, which stir round gently with a small wooden spoon, add to it about a pint of water, stir now and then till boiling, add three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of sugar, one of pepper, and a bouquet garni, simmer and skim, add a few drops of coloring to give it a nice brown color; when ready to serve, add a good tablespoonful of anchovy essence; it ought to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon, but not be too thick; sauce over or under, as directed; small pieces of glaze, if handy, put into it is an improvement, also using broth instead of water; oysters and mushrooms may be introduced, also a little cayenne pepper. This sauce must be very savory.
283. _Lobster b.u.t.ter._--Procure half a lobster, quite full of sp.a.w.n, which take out and pound well in a mortar; then add six ounces of fresh b.u.t.ter, mix well together, then rub it through a hair sieve, and put it in a cold place until wanted. The flesh can be used for any other dish.
284. _Anchovy b.u.t.ter._--Take the bones from six anchovies, wash the fillets, and dry them upon a cloth, pound them well in a mortar, add six ounces of fresh b.u.t.ter, mix well together, and proceed as in the last.
285. _Maitre d"Hotel b.u.t.ter._--Put a quarter of a pound of fresh b.u.t.ter upon a plate, with one good tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter that quant.i.ty of white pepper; mix all well together, and put in a cool place till required.
286. _Ravigote b.u.t.ter._--Proceed as in the last, but instead of parsley, use one spoonful of chopped tarragon, and one of chervil, and add half a spoonful of Chili vinegar.
REMOVES.
These are dishes which remove the fish and soup, served upon large dishes, and placed at the top and bottom of the table; great care should be evinced in cooking them, as they are the "piece de resistance" of the dinner. I must also observe that a few of the receipts appear a little complicated, but which will not prove to be the case if tried once or twice. In the Entrees will be found how the remains of them may be dressed.
Since the science of a.n.a.lytical chemistry has become so perfect, and has shown us the elements of which every substance and liquid is composed, and that, in order to continue them in a state of action, and prevent decomposition, it is necessary to repair the loss which they are every moment undergoing, even from man, through every living thing, down to earth and water. But as I am not going to write you a lecture on chemistry, which will be so much more easy to read in Liebig, in order for you to choose your meat and viands with economy in regard to actual nourishment, it is necessary I should tell you, that, from infancy to old age, the human race must be continually imbibing elements of formation or reparation, even from the lime in the mother"s milk, which forms the bones, to the osmazome extracted from animal matters, which creates a more lively circulation of the blood when it becomes sluggish and dull in old age. Each period, occupation, and station in life requires different substances of reparation, with which we ought to make ourselves intimately acquainted. Amongst the first, and that most generally in use with man, is the ox, the princ.i.p.al nourishment of which consists in the osmazome, which is that liquid part of the meat that is extracted by water at blood-heat. It is this which is the foundation and flavor of all soups, which gives the flavor to all meats, and which, on becoming candied by heat, forms the crust of roast meats.
The osmazome is found princ.i.p.ally in all adult animals having a dark flesh, and to a very small extent in those having a white flesh; or even in the white flesh of fowls, but in their back and legs, in which parts lies their princ.i.p.al flavor. The bones of the ox contain gelatine and phosphate of lime. The gelatine is also found in the muscles and other cartilaginous parts of the animal; it is extracted by boiling water, and coagulates at the ordinary temperature of the atmosphere; it is the foundation of all jellies, blancmanges, and other similar preparations.
The alb.u.men is also found in the flesh, and congeals as soon as the heat rises beyond that of the blood; it is this which is the sc.u.m on the pot when the meat is boiling.
BEEF.--All oxen should fast from twenty-four to forty-eight hours before being killed; when killed and skinned, they are opened and the inside cleaned; they are then hung up, and ought to be exposed to a draught until cold, and then divided down the back into two parts, leaving the head whole; these sides are then divided into two, called the fore and hind-quarters: the fore-quarter contains the shin, the clod and stickings, leg of mutton piece, chuck, middle rib, fore rib; the hind-quarter consists of the rump, sirloin, thin and thick flank, the veiny-piece, aitch-bone, b.u.t.tock or round, and leg and foot; the head contains the tongue, palate, and brains; the entrails consist of the sweetbread, kidneys, skirts, and the double roll and reed tripe. When the meat is cut up, the following kernels are taken out: those in the neck, where the shoulder clod is removed; two from the round, the pope"s eye, and one from the flap; one in the thick flap in the middle of the flank, and another between the rump and aitch-bone: these must be removed to preserve the beef, particularly in hot weather. The flavor and quality of the meat depend on the country from whence it comes, and the nature of its food.[4] As a general rule, the flesh ought to be of a dark red color, smooth, open-grained, with fat rather white than yellow running in thin streaks through the flesh.
Ox-beef is the largest and richest, but heifer is better, if well-fed. It should be hung for two days previous to using, in a cool place, free from draught; it will keep good from three to six days, according to the weather.
287. _Sirloin of Beef_ should never be less than three of the short ribs, and will weigh more or less according to the size of the ox from which they are taken; that from a small, well-fed heifer I consider the best, and will weigh about twelve pounds, and take about two hours to roast, depending much on the fire. Having spitted or hung the joint, cover it with b.u.t.tered paper, and place it about eighteen inches from the fire; about one hour after it has been down, remove the paper and place the joint nearer the fire, and put half a pint of water, with a little salt, in the dripping-pan; about a quarter of an hour before removing from the fire, dredge it with flour and salt from the dredging-box; when taken from the fire, empty the contents of the dripping-pan into a basin, from which remove the fat; pour the gravy in the dish, and then place the joint on it; serve some sc.r.a.ped horse-radish separate. A Yorkshire pudding is very excellent when cooked under this joint.
288. _Ribs of Beef._--This piece should consist of at least three ribs; the bones are generally sawn through about three inches from the top; these should be removed, leaving the flap, which fold under and fix with wooden skewers. This, in roasting, should be prepared and dredged as the sirloin. A drop of coloring gives the gravy an inviting appearance.
289. _Ribs of Beef braised._--Take four ribs, not too fat nor too thick, remove the chine-bone neatly, and four inches of the tips of the rib-bones, run with a larding-needle several pieces of fat bacon through the thick part, trim over the flap and tie it well round, put it into the braising-pan; put a quarter of a pound of b.u.t.ter, one teaspoonful of pepper, and six teaspoonfuls of salt into the pan, cover it over, and place it on a slow fire for thirty minutes, stirring it now and then, then add two quarts of water; at the expiration of one hour and a half, add eighty small b.u.t.ton onions and sixty small young carrots, or pieces of large ones cut in the shape, which place around the meat; a bouquet of ten sprigs of parsley, three bay-leaves, and four sprigs of thyme tied together; half an hour after, add sixty round pieces of turnip; then place some live coals on the lid, and let it stew gently for one hour and a half longer, being altogether about four hours. Take out the meat, remove the string, and trim it. Skim off the fat from the liquor in the pan, remove the bouquet, &c., add a few pieces of b.u.t.ter in which have been mixed a tablespoonful of flour and a teaspoonful of sugar, two of browning, stir gently with a wooden spoon, and, when just on the boil, dress round the meat, and serve. In case it has reduced too much, add water.
The foregoing receipt may appear rather complicated, and may perhaps frighten you, and prevent you trying it; but I a.s.sure you, if you once try it, you will find it so good as to repeat it, particularly as many other receipts will be referred to this one.
The vegetables and meat cold, are excellent.