434. _Soyer"s New Mutton Chop._--Trim a middling-sized saddle of mutton, which cut into chops half an inch in thickness with a saw, without at all making use of a knife (the sawing them off jagging the meat and causing them to eat more tender), then trim them to the shape represented in the drawing, season well with salt and pepper, place them upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, turning them three or four times; they would require ten minutes cooking; when done, dress them upon a hot dish, spread a small piece of b.u.t.ter over each (if approved of), and serve: by adding half a tablespoonful of Soyer"s Gentlemen"s or Ladies"
Sauce to each chop when serving, and turning it over two or three times, produces an excellent entree; the bone keeping the gravy in whilst cooking, it is a very great advantage to have chops cut after the above method. At home when I have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut two or three such chops, which I broil, rub maitre d"hotel b.u.t.ter over, and serve with fried potatoes round, using the remainder of the saddle next day for a joint. The above are also very excellent, well seasoned and dipped into egg and bread-crumbs previous to broiling. Lamb chops may be cut precisely the same, but require a few minutes less broiling.
You must remark that, by this plan, the fat and lean are better divided, and you can enjoy both; whilst the other is a lump of meat near the bone and fat at the other end, which partly melts in cooking, and is often burnt by the flame it makes; the new one not being divided at the bone, keeps the gravy in admirably. If well sawed it should not weigh more than the ordinary one, being about half the thickness. Do try them, and let me know your opinion.
Ever yours, HORTENSE.
LETTER No. XIV
DEAR HORTENSE,--Yours of last night was received at our supper-table, which was surrounded by a few of our best friends, and I need not tell you the merriment it has created respecting your fantastic ideas of this age of wonders. A very sedate old gentleman, who happened to have met you at Mr. H."s party about a week or two ago, and wished to be very courteous to you, and perhaps you did not notice his compliments, not only would he not give a smile to our hearty laugh, but actually swore that such comical nonsense was very dangerous to expose before the public, and especially if we intended to give publicity to it with the Receipts, the last of which he very much approved of. But respecting your fun on the review of our century,--"A woman," said he, "ought never to interfere with politics!" "Politics!" we all exclaimed, "where do you see anything political in it?" "In almost every word," replied he. "But in what part?" said we; "explain yourself." Unfortunately our hero stuttered very much. "Now, it-it-it is not one of-of-of you here, perhaps, who-who-who a-a-a-ve been in ann-y-pu-pu-public office like me in ma-ma-my youth. I was cla-cla-cla-clerk of the second cla-cla-clerk of the first cla-cla-cla-clerk of the private secretary"s cla-cla-cla-clerk of the Home of-of-of----" Here, dear, we all burst out laughing, which made the old gentleman so mad that he rushed from the room into the pa.s.sage, to the street-door, and out of the house, without his hat, Welsh wig, great coat, and umbrella, while the servant had a regular race to get hold of him. She at last found him talking to himself under one of our willow-trees in the garden, coming back for his tackle with his two hands over his red wig, and his thick head underneath. Being a wet night, after inquiring of the servant what he had said to her--"Ma-ma-ma-rie,"
said he, "you are a ve-ve-ve-very good girl indeed, very good girl, and I-I-I-I am ve-ve-ve-very sorry I have no money with me to gi-gi-gi-gi-give you something for your trouble, especially as you will ne-ne-ne-never see me here again, no, ne-ne-never." "Never mind, sir, about the money," said she to him, "I am no more disappointed than usual. Good night, sir." "Mary, you are a ve-ve-very sau-saucy huzzy, a ve-very saucy huzzy," was his answer.
He then gradually disappeared in the fog. In a few seconds after, she heard some one sneezing most fearfully in the direction he was gone, which she believed to be our stuttering friend. So, you see, dear, there is quite an event on a mutton chop. But let me tell you that, though your receipt came rather late, we still had some for supper, and very good they were; every one was delighted with them; in fact, we did not eat hardly anything else, being so comically introduced to us. I had them brought up at three different times broiling hot from the gridiron. I made twelve chops out of a middle-sized saddle of mutton, weighing about seven pounds: is that right? and I have about three pounds of chump remaining, which, of course, I intend making broth, Irish stew, or pies with. But, dearest, let us go through the remainder of the Receipts without any more interruption.
My husband begs to be kindly remembered to you both. Ever yours,
ELOISE.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
435. _Mutton Cutlets_.--Trim a neck of mutton by cutting away the scrag and sawing off three inches of the rib-bone, then cut about ten cutlets out of the neck, shape them by chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone, beat them flat to about a quarter of an inch in thickness with a cutlet-chopper, dipped in cold water, detach an inch of fat from the top of the rib-bone, and trim it like the following cut, season with a little salt and pepper, then well beat up one egg, dip a brush into it, and rub it lightly over the chop, dip it into bread-crumbs, form it into shape again, and dress in the following ways:--
Put two ounces of b.u.t.ter into a saute-pan or very clean omelette-pan, melt it, and put the cutlets in; put it on the fire for five minutes till it is of a nice yellow color; turn them, let them remain four minutes longer, try if they are done by pressing with the finger, they ought to be firm and full of gravy; lay them on a clean cloth, and dress them in the form of a crown, that is, by keeping the thick part at the bottom, and the sc.r.a.ped part of the bone at the top, and each one resting half-way on the other. Every dish of cutlets must be served thus.
436. _Cutlets with Mushrooms._--If for ten or twelve cutlets take about twenty fresh mushrooms, cut off the tails, wash them, and dry on a cloth, put two pats of b.u.t.ter in a stewpan, half a gill of water, the juice of a lemon, a little salt and pepper, set on the fire; boil for a few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, when very hot add a liaison of the yolk of an egg made as follows:
Put the yolk in a cup, and mix well with two tablespoonfuls of milk, stir well for one minute, put it in the middle of your pan, if no white sauce, add a little milk to the mushrooms, and mix a little flour with half a pat of b.u.t.ter, and put it in, keep stirring until boiling; dish up the cutlets, add the liaison, and serve; or still plainer, take the same number of mushrooms, wash well, cut in thin slices, put into a stewpan, with two pats of b.u.t.ter, half a teaspoonful of flour, a little salt and pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a little water; stew gently for ten minutes, serve, pouring the sauce over, or in the middle of the cutlets.
They can be served as cutlets a la jardiniere, with peas, with tomatoes, with artichokes, with spinach, a la poiverade, a la sauce piquante, with Brussels sprouts, and a la Soubise.
437. _Cutlets a la Maitre d"Hotel._--When the cutlets are done, dish them up, put two ounces of maitre d"hotel b.u.t.ter in a clean saute-pan, keep it moving until melted: put two spoonfuls of cream when very hot, pour over, and serve with fried potatoes in the middle.
438. _Cutlets, plainer way._--Cut them from the neck, beat them down roughly without tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, put them on the gridiron, when warm through, add salt, pepper, and very fine chopped onions, turn several times, they will take about ten minutes broiling; dish very hot, and serve. They may also be served on very white mashed potatoes.
439. _Sheep"s Tongue, Demi-Glaze._--For one dish, take six, put them in water to disgorge, then dry them, put them in a stewpan with two onions, half a large carrot, a bouquet of two bay-leaves, one sprig of thyme, a quart of broth if handy, or water, half a spoonful of salt, put them on to boil, and simmer for two hours till done; try if tender with a pointed knife, if so take them out, skin them, trim out all the roots, cut the tongue in two, lengthwise, giving it a little of the shape of cutlets, skim the fat from the stock, reduce the whole or part to a demi-glaze, put your pieces on a dish, when ready to serve, make a thin roll of mashed potatoes, and dish them round it, add a little sugar to the demi-glaze, and a small piece of b.u.t.ter, stir round till melted, add the juice of half a lemon, pour boiling hot over the tongue, the sauce ought to adhere thickly to the back of the spoon. Observe, dear, how cheaply this dish may be procured, and I a.s.sure you it is very excellent: I have tried it with almost all the sauces I have described for cutlets, and have found it good with all; they are also very good in papillote, like veal cutlets.
440. _Sheep"s Hearts._--Proceed exactly as with the calf"s heart, only diminish the time of cooking in proportion to the size, about thirty minutes will be sufficient; serve with any kind of sharp sauce, or any ragout of vegetables.
DISHES WITH THE REMAINS OF LAMB.
441. _Mince Lamb._--(See Veal.) Serve with poached eggs over.
442. _Remains of roast or boiled Lamb with Peas._--Cut up about two pounds, bones included, in rather small pieces, put into a convenient-sized stewpan, add to it two teaspoonfuls of flour, one of chopped onions, one of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, half a pint of water, stir gently until near boiling, add one bay-leaf, and one pint of very green peas already boiled, simmer and serve. Half an hour is sufficient to prepare this dish; peas left from a previous day can be used, also cauliflower if not too much broken, and gently simmered, also a few mushrooms, or if no vegetables, add a little liaison, and the juice of half a lemon.
443. _Lamb"s Feet_ are much more delicate than sheep"s trotters, but they are cooked and dressed the same, only in less time. If there are any left cold, cut them in two, put them in a basin, pour over a gla.s.s of vinegar, half of ditto of oil, one onion sliced, salt, pepper, fry them for twenty minutes, dip each piece in a batter, and fry a nice yellow color in fat; serve on a napkin.
444. _Lamb"s Heart._--Six will make a nice dish; stuff like calf"s heart, only adding to it some bits of ham or red tongue; stew and serve with any kind of sauce.
445. _Lamb Cutlets._--Ten cutlets would be sufficient for a dish, and might be cut from one neck, as described for mutton cutlets (page 182), but leaving them as large as possible; that is, about one third less than the mutton, season them lightly with salt and pepper, egg and bread-crumb them over, afterwards beating them gently with a knife, to put them again into shape; then have a little clarified b.u.t.ter upon a plate, into which dip each cutlet separately, afterwards throwing them into bread-crumbs, giving them another coat, and beat again. Then if wanted of a very nice color, put four spoonfuls of salad oil into a saute-pan, lay in the cutlets and set them over a sharp fire, turning when required, six or eight minutes would be sufficient to do them nicely; when done, lay them upon a cloth a moment to drain, glaze, and dish them in crown upon your dish, and serve with cuc.u.mbers stewed in the centre.
Lamb cutlets may also be served with stewed peas, French beans, spinach, asparagus points, sauce jardiniere, reforme, poiverade, piquante, or maitre d"hotel, which will be found in the series of sauces, or lamb cutlets may be broiled instead of fried, or served a la Maintenon, as directed for veal cutlets.
446. _Lamb Chops._--Select a fine loin of lamb with the kidney in it, trim off the flap, and with a very sharp knife cut your chops from half to three quarters of an inch in thickness, cutting about eight chops from the loin, three of which should have a piece of the kidney attached. I also cut two chops from the chump, which are very excellent eating, although clumsier in shape. Lay three of them upon a gridiron over a rather brisk but very clear fire, for if smoky it would entirely spoil the look and flavor of the lamb; and when just warmed through, season upon each side with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of that quant.i.ty of pepper; broil of a nice yellow color, and serve with fried parsley over if convenient. Or lay some nice mashed potatoes upon your dish, and serve the chops upon it.
447. _Lamb Chops in paper, with fine herbs._--Cut a piece of foolscap paper in the shape of a heart (and sufficiently large to fold a lamb chop in), rub a little oil over the paper, then season the chop with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, wrap the chop in the paper, which plait down at the edges, lay it upon a gridiron over a slow fire, turning it frequently; it will take about twenty minutes to broil properly, when done serve in the paper very hot.
448. _Lamb Chop saute._--Put a piece of b.u.t.ter into a clean saute- or frying-pan, and when melted lay in a chop rather highly seasoned with pepper and salt; fry it until thoroughly done and but lightly browned, and serve. Should gravy be required, pour off the greater part of the fat, and then stir in half a tablespoonful of flour, add a gill of broth or water, and a little coloring; stir with a wooden spoon, boiling five minutes, finish with an ounce of fresh b.u.t.ter and the juice of half a lemon; shake the pan over the fire until the sauce becomes rather thick, when pour over and serve.
449. _Pork Cutlets._--Choose a small neck, cut eight cutlets out of it of the same shape as the mutton, only leaving a little more fat on it, season, egg and bread-crumb, fry in pan, serve with either sauces Robert, poiverade, piquante, tartare.
450. _Pork Cutlets with Pickle._--Saute, broil or fry, the chops, as in the preceding; make about a gill of melted b.u.t.ter, add to it two tablespoonfuls of liquor of piccalilly, and six or eight pieces of the pickle cut small; when very hot put on your dish, and dress your cutlets over, or if for a large dish, dress cutlets in a crown, and sauce in the middle.
451. _Pork Cutlets saute._--Cut six or eight good-sized cutlets from the neck of the same shape as the mutton, lay them in a b.u.t.tered saute-pan, season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire; when done lay them upon a plate, pour some of the fat from the saute-pan, add a good tablespoonful of chopped onions, pa.s.s over the fire a minute, then add a teaspoonful of flour; moisten with half a pint of broth or water, with a piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf and a teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in the cutlets until quite hot, when dress upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.
This sauce is good with any kind of cutlets, but especially pork.
452. _Pork Cutlets aux Cornichons._--Cut six or eight cutlets from a middling-sized neck of pork, season well with pepper and salt, dip in eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into grated crust of bread (not too brown) put two ounces of lard or b.u.t.ter into a saute- or frying-pan, lay in the cutlets and fry very slowly; when done place them upon a dish; keep hot, pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or water with a piece of glaze, add half a winegla.s.sful of vinegar, a little salt, pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in the pan to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.
453. _Pork Cutlets sauce demi-Robert._--Cut eight cutlets from a neck as before, season well with pepper and salt, sprinkle chopped onions and parsley over upon both sides, beating the cutlets lightly to make them adhere, then dip them into eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into bread-crumbs; pat them lightly, have some clarified b.u.t.ter in a stewpan, into which dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well covering them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, broiling a nice light brown color; when done dress them upon a dish; have ready the following sauce: cut two large onions into very small dice, put them into a stewpan with an ounce of b.u.t.ter, fry of a light yellow color, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth and a spoonful of vinegar, season well, let boil, skim and reduce until rather thick, when add a spoonful of mixed mustard, a little coloring; sauce in the centre of the cutlets and serve.
454. _Excellent Sausage Cakes._--Chop some lean pork very fine, having previously detached all the skin and bone, and to every pound of meat add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley; when the whole is well chopped put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs; then have ready a pig"s caul, which cut into pieces large enough to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, which wrap up, keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very gently over a moderate fire.