The Note-Book of an Attache

The Note-Book of an Attache.

by Eric Fisher Wood.

FOREWORD

When the war-storm suddenly loomed over Europe at the end of July, 1914, I was quietly studying architecture in the Ecole des Beaux-Arts at Paris. When Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia on July 24th, the atmosphere of the city became so surcharged with excitement that to persist in study was difficult. Within a week I myself had been swept into the vortex of rushing events, from which I did not emerge until seven months later.

I became Attache at the American Emba.s.sy in Paris under the regime of Mr. Herrick, and as such lived through the first exciting months of the great war. During the months of September, October, and November, I made four different trips to the front, covering territory which extended along the battle-line from Vitry-le-Francois in the east to a point near Dunkirk in the west. I saw parts of the battles of the Marne and the Aisne, and the struggle for Calais.

The months of December and January I spent as a bearer of special dispatches between the American Emba.s.sies and went several times to France, England, Switzerland, Holland, Germany, Austria, and Hungary.

I have seen French, British, Belgian, and German troops in action. I have seen French, Swiss, Dutch, German, Austrian, and Hungarian troops in manoeuvres. I spent the first week of February in Paris, leaving there for America on February 10th.

The following account of what I saw and heard is compiled from letters and diaries which I wrote day by day on the spot. Some of my experiences have had to be omitted for diplomatic reasons, and it has been necessary, in some cases, to give information without mentioning my authority. The higher the rank and the greater the reputation of my informant, the less right have I to mention his name.

Although my personal sympathies are with the French, I tried to observe dispa.s.sionately and accurately, and have scrupulously aimed to present my facts uncolored by preference or prejudice. In war, exaggeration and misrepresentation play an accepted part in the tactics of belligerents, but it should be the aim of a neutral to observe with an unbiased mind, no matter what the state of his emotions may be. Otherwise, the data he collects can have no value as historical material.

THE NOTE-BOOK OF AN ATTACHe

CHAPTER I

AT THE AMERICAN EMBa.s.sY

_Paris, Tuesday, August 4th._ I presented myself at the American Emba.s.sy today and offered my services to Mr. Herrick. They were promptly accepted. I was put to work with such suddenness that no time was spent in determining my official status. I cannot say whether I am a doorman or an Attache. At present the duties of the two seem to be identical.

Now, as in 1870, the German Emba.s.sy in leaving France turned over its affairs and the interests of German subjects remaining in France to the American Amba.s.sador. When I arrived today the _Chancellerie_ presented an astounding sight. Around the outer door were huddled a compact crowd of Germans, men and women; they pressed about the entrance; they glanced furtively over their shoulders and their blue eyes were filled with dumb apprehension. Inside the _Chancellerie_ was chaos. Hundreds of Americans and Germans crowded together seeking audience and counsel. German women sank down in corners of the halls or on the stairs, weeping for joy to have found a haven of refuge.

Scores of Sovereign American Citizens stood in the busiest spots and protested with American vehemence against fate and chance. Each S.A.C.

was remonstrating about a separate grievance. Most of them reiterated from time to time their sovereignty, and announced to no one in particular that it was their right to see "their Amba.s.sador" in person. They demanded information! They needed money! They wished to know what to do with letters of credit! What was "the government"

going to do about sending them home? Was Paris safe? Would there be immediate attacks by Zeppelins? Could they deposit their jewels in the Emba.s.sy vaults? Were pa.s.sports necessary? WHY were pa.s.sports necessary? They asked the same questions over and over, and never listened to the answers.

Inspired by Mr. Herrick, the staff of the Emba.s.sy struggled bravely and coolly through this maelstrom, and accomplished as many things as possible each minute. No fifty men could have gone through with all the work that suddenly demanded attention. Without warning, virtually within one day, this great flood of humanity had rolled in upon the normally tranquil life of the Emba.s.sy, and yet its chief and his a.s.sistants took up the vast responsibility as quietly and acted as coolly as though it were all an everyday occurrence and not the emergency of a lifetime.

I was first a.s.signed to work with the American problems. William Iselin, who had been one of my fellow-students in the Ecole des Beaux Arts, is Attache at the Emba.s.sy and he gave me a rapid summary of necessary information. I plunged into work with eagerness, but while attending to my own countrymen, my deepest personal sympathies went out to the mob of panic-stricken Germans. Poor creatures, they are in no way personally responsible for the war, and yet they bear no mean part in the suffering it is causing. It was decreed by the French government that all Germans who had not left Paris within twenty-four hours after the order of mobilization would on no condition be permitted to leave thereafter. Many of them had found it absolutely impossible to depart in time owing to the difficulty of obtaining money and to the disarrangement of the railway service caused by the mobilization of troops. The second day of mobilization, August 3d, caught them like rats in a trap and exposed them to the doubtful fate of being lost in an enemy"s country during war time. Many of them were travelers who had been vacationing in the chateau country, visiting the cathedrals of Normandy, or enjoying the picturesque country of Brittany. Last week they were everywhere treated with respect and politeness, today they are looked upon with suspicion and hostility.

They are hungry and they have no money. They are surrounded by looks of hatred and they are terror-stricken. No Frenchman but fears to be seen speaking to them. They have no place to sleep as no hotel or lodging-house dares harbor them. Many of them have lost all their worldly goods and possess nothing except the clothes in which they stand. Nearly all of them carried their funds in letters of credit on German banks and these are now worthless in France.

There are refined women who have slept in the streets and parks, nay, who have not been allowed to sleep, but have walked all night in their patent leather pumps. There are rich men who literally have not an available copper and whose eyes have taken on the nervous look of hunted animals. They realize that neither their sound reputation nor abundant wealth will alter their present condition by even one "pet.i.t pain de cinq centimes." One man who carried bank-books and deeds showing that he owned property to the amount of several hundred thousand francs had walked twelve miles to reach the Emba.s.sy, because he did not possess the coppers necessary to pay his carfare in a public conveyance.

Yesterday war was declared between France and Germany. One realizes how quickly it has come when in the American mail yesterday morning a copy of the _New York Times_ dated only ten days ago devoted just a column and a quarter to the subject of possible friction between Austria and Serbia. When that newspaper left New York the whole world was at peace, but while it was crossing the ocean war has overwhelmed all Europe, and now when it reaches Paris twenty million men are rushing to arms.

Today peace-loving France realizes that she is attacked by a powerful and ambitious enemy. Today no man in all _la Patrie_ regrets the sacrifices which he has made to maintain an army capable of defending his country; no man but gives fervent thanks to Heaven that he has been forced to pay taxes to support that army; no man regrets those three years of his life which he and each of his fellow-countrymen offered up in order that its number might not diminish, for now that army stands READY to prevent the ruin of his property, of his nation, of his women. It is Ready! At this moment--what a wonderful word! In modern wars little is of use which has not been prepared beforehand.

Weeks only are necessary to ruin untrained and ill-armed forces, while years are needed to train an army and to manufacture arms. The victories of today are not won by Bravery armed with a rifle, but by Science supplemented by many complicated instruments.

Every hour of every day presents new sights or experiences unique in kind and all speaking dramatically of war. Each such sight is a surprise more vivid than the preceding one. Every day is a succession of startling novelties, each of which gives one a tingling shock. We are living so rapidly that some are benumbed, others intoxicated by the rush of events.

In the shops the prices of food staples have nearly doubled. The people are all anxious to lay in a little supply of provisions against sudden famine conditions, and the merchants are holding them up for all the traffic will bear. Articles that will keep indefinitely, such as flour, chocolate, dried fruits, potatoes, coffee, and preserved meats, are most in demand. Owing to the hand-to-mouth buying methods of the French, Paris is never more than three days ahead of famine. No one realizes this better than the French themselves, and therefore each and every one desires to lay in at least a small supply of provisions. A temporary shortage has consequently already occurred.

The newspapers have been emphatic in the denunciation of the merchants who, taking advantage of the national crisis, and making capital of the fear and need of the populace, have raised the prices of the necessaries of life, and have advised the people not to submit to the imposition. Today the poorer cla.s.ses have adopted the policy of smashing anything for which an unreasonable price is demanded. I heard a big, broad "femme du peuple" ask the corner grocer the price of some prunes, several bushels of which were exhibited in front of the store.

The reply indicating a rise of some fifty per cent. in the price, the woman suddenly picked up the basket in her strong arms, and before the astonished grocer could interfere, threw the whole lot into the gutter. Instantly a crowd collected which cheered the woman and jeered the grocer in so ugly a manner that he was thoroughly frightened. His confusion was made quite complete when a policeman arrived and declared that what the woman had done was well done. The results of this policy were immediately salutary and by this evening the shopkeepers of Paris are a very chastened lot, and prices are quite normal again.

The eagerness with which newspapers are bought and read is noteworthy.

Each succeeding "extra" is snapped up with unfailing alacrity. The usual procedure is now reversed, for the newsboy is no longer seen racing at the beck of some haughty customer, but continues on his lordly way and allows the would-be purchaser to rush to him, or even run down the streets after him. The great journals seem unable to turn out enough editions or to get them out fast enough to meet the demand.

The authorities, however, evidently consider this continual hawking of sensational news unnecessarily disturbing to the populace, and an ordinance is to be framed forbidding the crying of newspapers in the streets.

The Tour Eiffel, that plaything of a decade ago, has in this war become of supreme importance. It is the highest "wireless mast" in the world and from it messages have been exchanged with Washington, D.C.

Its value as a sending station cannot be over-estimated. Russia may become isolated; indeed she is already virtually shut off by the curtain of hostile Germany and Austria-Hungary, stretching from the North Sea and the Baltic to the Adriatic. It is probable that wireless messages sent and received by the Tour Eiffel will soon be the only means of rapid communication between France and Russia. Fears for the safety of the tower have led to the most extraordinary precautions for its protection. It is a.s.siduously guarded against the attack of spies by numerous sentries. Anti-aircraft guns are mounted upon its various stages to protect it against aeroplanes and Zeppelins, and heavy barbed-wire entanglements are to be built all around it.

A curfew regulation is now in force in Paris. No one is allowed in the streets after eight o"clock. Whoever is found out later than that hour is promptly conducted to his domicile by the first policeman he meets.

I received a cablegram tonight explaining that there is at the moment no means of forwarding money from New York to Paris. This makes my financial situation awkward, as I now have only three hundred francs.

The worst of it is that one cannot even resort to the expedient of borrowing, because all one"s friends are suffering a like stringency.

Today is, officially, the "third day of mobilization." From now on France will live not by calendar, but by mobilization, days. One speaks not of "Sunday, August 2d," but of the "first day of mobilization." Neither days of the week nor of the month exist any longer. All government decrees, railroad schedules, and military orders are dated by the new era. Events follow a schedule which has long since been prepared. When mobilization is announced the nation turns away from its everyday life and from the world"s calendar, and starts a carefully rehea.r.s.ed set of operations executed according to an arbitrary schedule. One dimly remembers that if it were "peace time" today would be Tuesday.

One sees everywhere on the sidewalk little knots of people talking in low, troubled voices, and each time just as their conversation is well started they are interrupted by a policeman who reminds them that it is not permitted to _s"attrouper_ in the streets and that they must move on.

Everywhere one sees speeding taxicabs, each containing a young soldier, his family, and two or three bundles. The young man usually wears a brand new uniform. The women of the family are invariably weeping quietly as if to say: "I cannot help crying, because I am a woman, but everything is all right and just as it should be!" When the father is of the party, he has a calm face and sits beside his son with his arm around the son"s shoulders, and always the taxi speeds madly, so that each time one gets only the most fleeting glimpse of the family within.

There are very few soldiers left in Paris,--not a fifth as many as usual; those that one does see are most of them driving heavily-loaded army wagons and appear most disgusted with the unheroic service.

Auto-busses have completely disappeared from the streets, and this is a great inconvenience; they are all at Versailles being converted into meat wagons or ambulances. All the fast private automobiles are requisitioned for the army, and one sees them tearing along vying in speed with the flying taxis, each one driven by a sapper with another sapper in the footman"s place, while one or two officers sit calmly behind, trying to smoke cigarettes in spite of the wind.

There are persistent rumors throughout Paris of battles "near Metz" or "on the borders of Luxembourg," of "two hundred and thirty thousand French troops already in Alsace," "ten thousand French killed at Belfort," or "forty thousand German prisoners taken."

The papers already announce a series of German depredations across the border into the ten kilometer strip of country between it and the French armies. It is reported that German foragers are infesting this strip, carrying off everything of value. Yesterday morning the papers printed the first "war story," which recounts how a patrol of Uhlans penetrating some ten kilometers into French territory were halted by a French sentinel, a soldier nineteen years old. The German in command, thinking the sentinel was alone, shot him through the head and was himself in turn immediately shot dead by the boy"s comrades, who had been hidden near by in an improvised guard-house. The papers also announced that the president of the League of French Patriots in Alsace had been arrested and shot. These stories and others like them, coupled with the official report of the violation of Luxembourg and of the sending of a German ultimatum to Belgium, have intensely excited the French.

Until yesterday the people of Paris have been forbearing with such German subjects as are in the city. When these stories began to circulate certain elements of the population took prompt and drastic action against the German-owned shops of the city. During the day many such shops have been wrecked. The milk trust of Paris which sells "le Bon Lait Maggi" is popularly supposed to be owned by German capital.

Its shops are in every quarter of the city, one might almost say on every street. They have today been the first objects of attack. One of these shops is in the Rue ----, not far from my apartment. I saw it wrecked this afternoon. There was no excitement, no hurry, no shouting. A crowd collected, apparently without concerted action, but as if by common impulse. There was no prearrangement or system about it and no "French" excitement. Most of the raiders were women. There was some jesting, and some dry wit, but mostly it was serious business.

The work of wrecking was carried forward painstakingly and thoroughly.

The iron screen over the show-window was torn off and broken up and the window itself was smashed to bits, the door was broken open, every bit of gla.s.s or crockery was shivered to fragments against the sidewalk and the pieces were ground into powder under the heels of the raiders. Account books and bill-heads were torn sheet by sheet into the tiniest bits and strewn up and down the street for a block, and all woodwork was smashed into kindling. During the operations a patrol of policemen on bicycles went tearing by. They must have been on business of great and immediate importance since they had no time to stop nor to look either to the right or left. When the wrecking operations were quite completed another patrol came by. The sergeant in command dismounted. He wore a tremendous frown and with an authoritative sweep of his arm cried: "Qu"est ce que vous faites?

Allez! Allez vous en! vous savez bien que nous sommes maintenant sous la loi militaire, et que c"est defendu de s"attrouper dans les rues!

Allez! Allez!" ("What are you doing? Move along, get out of here! You know that we are now under martial law and that it is forbidden to collect in crowds in the streets. Move on, move on!").

The crowd instantly dispersed, wearing faces of great solemnity. It is evident that he could not possibly have arrested the wreckers, for he had himself seen nothing and it is not to be supposed that they would have been witnesses against one another.

By night time there were many shops, factories, and cafes of German ownership which had thus been raided. The crowds did not always take time to make careful investigation before breaking up an establishment. I shall never forget the plight of the French proprietor of a cafe on the Place de l"Opera who was standing in front of his completely wrecked shop using all the most eloquent French gestures, as he repeated over and over in helpless rage: "Sacre nom d"un nom, je suis caporal du cent-dixieme de reserve et je pars au front apres demain!" ("Sacred Name, I am Corporal of the 110th Reserve and I leave for the front the day after tomorrow.")

Last evening I repeatedly heard the following conversation between Frenchmen, wherever they met:

1st Frenchman: "Est-ce qu"on va boire du "Bon Lait Maggi,"

ce soir?"

2d Frenchman (with the solemnity of an owl): "Non, Monsieur!"