CHAPTER TEN CHICKEN PLANNED-OVERS $ A GREAT FAST FOOD
Everyone is so busy nowadays, it"s often tempting to pick up dinner at a fast food carry-out on the way home.
The problem is, these foods not only dent the budget, they can short-change you nutritionally. Often they"re high in the fat or sodium which many of us are trying to limit.
There are, however, ways to serve speedy meals that are also good for you. In fact, I like to think of leftover chicken as a fast food. It gives you a head start on so many recipes.
Mich.e.l.le Evans, the eminent cookbook author and travel authority, likes to say that left over chicken is the "basic black dress" of the culinary world. It"s true. You can dress it up in so many ways: you can use herbs and spices, sauces and dips, toppings and crusts. Just as a basic black dress is handy to have around, so leftover chicken is wonderful for a fast start on a number of delicious dishes.
By using leftovers, you can create fast food while maintaining control over the calories and nutrition. When you do cook, plan for leftovers by preparing extra quant.i.ties. Serve part of what you prepared immediately, and save the rest for a "planover". Then, on those days when you"re short on time, use your microwave to create a meal from your store of "planovers."
There are a few points to keep in mind when using leftovers.
_Know how long the food has been held at room temperature. The Department of Agriculture recommends that you throw food out if it"s of animal origin and if it"s been left unrefrigerated for more than two hours. I"ve talked with some food scientists, however, who feel that the USDA two-hour rule is unnecessarily strict. They say that except for the at-risk groups, (infants, the elderly or those in poor health), that you can probably still use chicken that has been kept at room temperature for a little longer than two hours, maybe as long as four hours. Still, they agree that the longer chicken is kept at room temperature, the bigger the chance you"re taking. Harmful organisms can multiply rapidly on food that"s held in the danger zone between 40 degrees and 140 degrees.
Personally, I"m in favor of being cautious, but I thought you might like to know that there"s more than one view.
_When refrigerating leftovers, break them down into shallow pans that aren"t deeper than a couple of inches.
If you have a deep pan with lots of, for example, leftover stuffing, it could take too long for the food in the middle to cool down to 40 degrees.
_If you"re not going to eat the leftover chicken within three days, freeze it.
_Don"t store cooked chicken in the freezer for longer than three months. Label it so you can keep track of it.
A California home economist friend of mine keeps a running log of what"s in her freezer, marking dishes when they are removed. This reduces the search time with the freezer open, and keeps her from losing track of what"s in there.
_Wrap leftovers tightly in moisture proof wrapping so as to prevent freezer burn.
_Think of ways of working leftovers into your brown bag lunches. Cold chicken makes a great lunch. Chicken soup or stew goes great in a thermos.
If you happen to be browsing in this chapter and find you want to make one of the recipes but don"t have any leftovers handy, you can make some by:
1. Baking a chicken. Place whole chicken without any seasonings or coatings, uncovered in a 350oF oven for approximately 1 hour.
2. Simmering a whole chicken
1 chicken
2 cups water
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
1 onion, peeled and quartered
1 stalk celery, halved
1 bay leaf
Put chicken in kettle or sauce pan. Add water and remaining ingredients. Cover and simmer 45 minutes or until cooked through. Save the broth for sauces or soup bases.
3. Simmering parts of a chicken using the same recipe as for whole chicken. Boneless parts cook fastest, a small breast in 15 minutes, a larger roaster-size one in 20 to 25, and boneless roaster thighs in 30 to 40 minutes.
PHOTO: 3 pies and 1 oblong ca.s.serole CHICKEN POTPIES REDISCOVERED One of the best uses for leftover chicken is chicken pot pies.
Back in the days of the Roman empire, potpies were banquet fare, often created with surprises - even live birds -- under the crust. During the time of Elizabeth I, English cooks made potpies using "chicken peepers," tiny chicks stuffed with gooseberries. By the mid-eighteenth century, an English cookbook included a sort of telescoping pie in which five birds were stuffed one inside another, then wrapped in dough.
With a past like that, it is not surprising that immigrants to America brought an appreciation for potpies with them. When settlers moved West, so did their potpie recipes, which they adapted to local food styles with new ingredients and seasonings. By this century, chicken potpies and "meat and taters" variations had become as American as corn on the cob. They were thrifty foods, served at the kitchen table and in "home cooking" diners along country roads.
Recently, nostalgia for homespun cookery has meant a change in status for potpies. They not only are considered respectable, they"re even "trendy," often appearing on the menus of fashionable restaurants. These are perfect recipes in which to use leftover chicken, and if you run short of a particular vegetable go ahead and subst.i.tute whatever else looks good. In fact, you can mix and match and change the ingredients, flavorings and toppings to suit the mood of the moment. To get you started, here are a few guidelines.
Tips for Making old-Fashioned Chicken Potpies
_Potpie fillings are actually stews or creamed dishes inside a crust. If you want you can also serve fillings over rice, noodles, toast points or party sh.e.l.ls.
_To prevent a soggy bottom crust, bake two-crust pies on the bottom shelf of a preheated oven and slit the top to allow steam to escape. For decorative slits, use a favorite hors d"oeuvre or cookie cutter. Also s.p.a.ce dumplings, biscuits and other toppings to allow for steaming.
_When making individual potpies, eliminating the bottom crust creates a better proportion of filling to pastry. One double-crust recipe for a 9-inch pie plate makes about 8 single-crust, 5-inch tarts. Reduce baking time by 10 minutes.
_For a different flavor in biscuits, crusts or potato toppings, crumble in a few tablespoonfuls of herbs or grated cheese.
_Potpie fillings can be prepared in advance and refrigerated, but do not pour fillings into pastry sh.e.l.ls until ready to bake. If you plan to freeze a pie for storage, eliminate the bottom crust, sealing the top one over cooked filling. Place in a plastic bag or wrap tightly with heavy foil. Do not defrost before baking.
Preheat the oven and add 15 minutes to cooking time.
CAJUN PIEServes 4 1/4 pound lean bacon Vegetable oil 3 tablespoons flour 1/2 cup chopped onion 1/2 cup chopped green pepper 1/2 cup fresh ripe or canned chopped tomatoes 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 4 to 12 drops Tabasco 1-1/4 cups water 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1 package (10 ounces) frozen succotash, thawed 2 cups cooked, chopped chicken 8 to 10 ready to bake b.u.t.termilk biscuits Grease a deep 9-inch pie plate or ovenproof dish. In large, heavy skillet, over medium-high heat, cook bacon until crisp. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon to drain; crumble. Pour drippings into a measuring cup and add oil to bring to 1/2 cup. Return to skillet and stir in flour.
Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 5 to 10 minutes or until well browned. Add onions and cook 1 minute. Stir in green peppers, tomatoes, sauces, and water; season to taste with salt. Simmer until slightly thickened or about 1 to 3 minutes; stir in succotash bacon and chicken. Pour into prepared dish. Preheat oven to 425oF. Place biscuits on top of filling with edges touching. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until filling is hot and biscuits are golden brown.
CHICKEN HASH PIEServes 4 2 pounds (4 large) potatoes, peeled and diced 1 cup (1/2 pint) heavy cream, divided 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided Salt and ground pepper to taste Pinch ground nutmeg 1 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and tender green parts only 1/2 cup chopped celery 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup chicken broth 3 cups cooked, chopped chicken 3/4 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried 4 eggs 2 teaspoons minced, fresh parsley, optional Preheat oven to 350F. Grease a 9-inch pie plate or 1-1/2- quart ovenproof ca.s.serole. Place potatoes in a large saucepan with enough water to cover. Salt to taste. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and mash potatoes, adding 1/4 cup cream, 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, nutmeg, and salt to taste. Cover and set aside.
In large skillet over medium-high heat, melt remaining b.u.t.ter. Saute scallions and celery in b.u.t.ter for 3 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook 3 minutes. Add broth and remaining 3/4 cup cream and heat to boiling, whisking constantly. Stir in chicken, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt or to taste, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper.
Spread chicken mixture on bottom of prepared pie plate.
Pipe 4 potatoes rings on top of pie or spread potatoes over filling and make four depressions with the back of a spoon.
Bake 15 minutes. Remove from oven and carefully break eggs into rings or depressions. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, if desired, and return to oven for 15 minutes or until eggs are set to desired doneness. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.
CHICKEN PIEServes 4 In contrast to the recipe above for Chicken Hash Pie, this may be one of the easiest chicken pie recipes there is.
Sprinkle grated Cheddar cheese over the biscuits when you want something different.
2 cups cooked chicken, cut in chunks 2 cans (10-1/2-ounces each) cream of mushroom soup, undiluted 1/2 cup uncooked frozen peas 2 raw carrots, sliced 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion or 1 teaspoon instant minced onion 1 tube (7 and 1/2 ounces) prepared biscuits Preheat oven to 350oF. Mix all ingredients except biscuits in baking dish. Cover with foil and bake 1 hour. Remove foil. Place biscuits on top of mixture. Bake, uncovered, 12 minutes longer or until biscuits are brown.
CHICKEN TAMALE PIE (Mexican) Serves 8-10 Don"t be alarmed if the cornmeal mixture gets lumpy$just keep stirring and cooking and the mixture will become consistently thick.
4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided 1 cup chopped onion 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups cooked chicken, cut in cubes 1 can (12-ounces) tomato puree 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 cup pitted and chopped ripe olives 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seed 3 teaspoons salt, divided 1/2 teaspoon ground pepper 6 cups chicken broth, divided 2 cups cornmeal In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter. Add onion and garlic and saute for 1 minute. Add chicken, tomato puree, chili powder, olives, coriander, 1 teaspoon of the salt, pepper and 1/2 cup chicken broth.
Cover and simmer 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 325oF. Bring remaining broth to a boil in large saucepan. Add salt and b.u.t.ter. Stir in cornmeal. Cook at low heat 15 minutes, stirring constantly. Line a large shallow baking dish with half of the cornmeal mixture. Pour in chicken mixture.
Cover with remaining cornmeal mixture. Bake for 1 1/2 hours.
EMPANADA PIEServes 4 This is a South American version of chicken pot pie.
2 cups flour 3/4 teaspoon salt or to taste 8 tablespoons (1 stick) b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided 2 tablespoons lard or shortening About 1/3 cup ice-cold water 1/2 cup thinly sliced onion 1 cup thinly sliced green pepper 1 hot green chili pepper, chopped (optional) 1/2 cup pitted green olives, sliced into rounds 1 cup raisins 1/4 cup cider vinegar 1 cup chopped fresh or stewed tomatoes 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste 3 cups cooked, diced chicken 1 egg, beaten Pastry In a small bowl, combine flour and salt. With pastry blender or 2 knives, cut in 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter and lard until mixture resembles coa.r.s.e crumbs. Gradually stir in water until dough forms a ball; do not overmix.
Preheat oven to 425F and grease a deep 9-inch pie plate or ovenproof dish. Roll out 2/3 of the pastry and use to line bottom of pie plate. Pierce well with a fork. Roll remaining pastry to 1/8-inch thickness for top crust.
(Pastry can be prepared ahead and refrigerated until filling is ready.) Filling In medium-sized saucepan over medium-high heat, melt remaining b.u.t.ter. Add onion and pepper; saute for 3 minutes or until softened. Add olives, raisins, vinegar, tomatoes and tomato paste and cook 5 minutes. Season with cinnamon and salt; stir in chicken. Spread chicken mixture in prepared pie plate and top with pastry. Flute edges, cut decorative slits in top, and brush with beaten egg.
Bake on bottom shelf of oven 30 minutes or until browned.
FANCY CHICKEN PUFF PIEServes 4 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine 1/4 cup chopped shallots or scallions 1/4 cup flour 1 cup chicken broth 1/4 cup dry sherry Salt to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper Pinch nutmeg 1/4 pound ham, in 1/4-inch by 2-inch strips 3 cups cooked chicken, cut in 1/4-inch by 2-inch strips 1-1/2 cups fresh, or a package (10 ounces) frozen, asparagus,cooked tender-crisp and cut in 2-inch pieces 1 cup (1/2 pint) heavy cream Chilled flaky pastry for a 1-crust pie or 1 sheet frozen puff pastry 1 egg, beaten In a medium-sized saucepan, oven medium-high heat, melt b.u.t.ter and saute shallots lightly. Whisk in flour; cook 3 minutes and add broth and sherry. Heat to boiling, whisking constantly; season to taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Reduce heat to low and simmer 5 minutes. Stir in ham, chicken, asparagus, and cream. Pour chicken mixture in 9-inch pie plate.