_Upright foliage plants._--Muehlenbeckia, _Cycas revoluta_, _Dracaena fragrans_ and others, palms, cannas, _Farfugium grande_, achyranthes, ferns, araucaria, epiphyllums, panda.n.u.s or "screw pine," _Pilea arborea_, _Ficus elastica_, _Grevillea robusta_.
_Climbing plants._--_Asparagus tenuissimus_, _A. plumosus_, _Cobaea scandens_, smilax, j.a.panese hop, Madeira vine (Boussingaultia), _Senecio mikanioides_ and _S. macroglossus_ (parlor ivies). See also list below.
_Low-growing, trailing, or drooping plants._--These may be used for baskets and edgings. Flowering kinds are: Sweet alyssum, lobelia, _Fuchsia proc.u.mbens_, mesembryanthemum, _Oxalis pendula_, _O.
floribunda_ and others, _Russelia juncea_, _Mahernia odorata_ or honey-bell.
_Foliage plants of drooping habit._--Vincas, _Saxifraga sarmentosa_, Kenilworth ivy, tradescantia or Wandering Jew, _*Festuca glauca_, othonna, _*Isolepsis gracilis_, English ivy, _Selaginella denticulata_ and others. Some of these plants flower quite freely, but the flowers are small and of secondary consideration. Those with an asterisk (*) droop but slightly.
_PLANTS FOR AN AVERAGE NIGHT TEMPERATURE OF 50_
_Upright flowering plants._--Azaleas, cyclamens, carnations, chrysanthemums, geraniums, Chinese primroses, stevia, marguerite or Paris daisy, single petunias, _Anthemis coronaria_, camellias, ardisia (berries), cineraria, violets, hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, the Easter lily when in bloom, and others.
_Upright foliage plants._--Pittosporum, palms, aucuba, euonymus (golden and silvery variegated), araucaria, panda.n.u.s, dusty miller.
_Climbing plants._--English ivy, maurandia, senecio or parlor ivy, lyG.o.dium (climbing fern).
_Drooping or trailing plants._--Flowering kinds are: Sweet alyssum, _Mahernia odorata_, Russelia and ivy geranium.
_Bulbs in the Window-Garden._--The single Roman hyacinth is an excellent house plant. Its flowers are small, but they are graceful and especially well suited for cutting. The bulbs are easily forced, and are managed like other hyacinths. The secret of forcing the Dutch bulbs and most others is to pot them and then, after watering the pots, set them away in a cool, dark place until the pot is filled with roots. They may be placed in the cellar "to root up," or be buried 3 or 4 inches deep in the soil. It is well to delay potting them until such time as they can be kept cool while forming their roots. A temperature of about 40 to 45 suits them during this period. In most cases it is well to select pots 5 or 6 inches in diameter and place from three to six bulbs in a pot, according to the size of the bulbs and the plants. The pot having been filled with soil, it is only necessary to press them down till the tip, or about one-fourth, shows above the soil. After this a slight jarring or sharp rap will settle the soil. They are then watered and set away, as before mentioned. If kept dark and cool they will need no more watering until they are brought out and begin to grow, when they may be watered freely.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Window-garden]
Hyacinths, tulips and narcissus all require about the same treatment.
When well rooted, which will be in six or eight weeks, they are brought out and given a temperature of some 55 to 60 till the flowers appear, when they should be kept in a cooler temperature, say 50.
The Easter lily is managed the same way, only, to hasten its flowers, it should be kept at not lower than 60 at night. Warmer will be better.
Lilies may be covered an inch or more deep.
Freesias may be potted six or more in a pot of mellow soil, and then started into growth at once. At first they might be given a night temperature of 50, and 55 to 60 when they have begun to grow.
Bulbs like the snowdrop and crocus are planted several or a dozen in a pot and buried, or treated like hyacinths; but they are very sensitive to heat, and require only to be given the light when they have started to grow, without any forcing. Forty to 45 will be as warm as they ever need be kept. See the article on _Bulbs_; also, the advice given for the various plants under their respective names.
_Pests._--Window-Garden pests are discussed under _Insects_.
WINTER-KILLING is induced by a late fall growth, and also by a dry, unprotected soil. All tender woody plants should be well ripened before cold weather comes: cease tillage early: do not apply stimulating manures late in the season. Mulch all tender or half hardy plants (see _Mulch_). Even hardy plants are benefited by a mulch. When possible, it is better to bend plants to the ground and cover them than to wrap them up as they stand; but this cannot be done with tall or stiff subjects.
Wrapping in straw or burlaps affords excellent protection, but it is possible to wrap too heavily. A barrel, less the heads, may be set over small plants and then filled with leaves or other loose litter; or a cylinder of wire chicken-screen may be subst.i.tuted for the barrel.
Remove the protection in the spring before the buds start. See that mice do not nest in the barrel or in the mulch.
ZINNIA. Showy hardy annuals. The old formal type of Zinnias has given place to a race of freer forms which are excellent plants either for color effect or for cutting. The colors have been varied and brightened, the flowers doubled and the plants dwarfed. Seed should be sown in a hotbed or house in March, transplanted once at least before planting out, and set in well enriched soil. Or, the seed may be sown where the plants are to grow. The tall varieties (3 feet) should stand 18 to 24 inches apart. These are best for ma.s.ses at a distance.
_The Best and Newest Rural Books_
BOOKS ON LEADING TOPICS CONNECTED WITH AGRICULTURAL AND RURAL LIFE ARE HERE MENTIONED. EACH BOOK IS THE WORK OF A SPECIALIST, UNDER THE EDITORIAL SUPERVISION OF PROFESSOR L. H. BAILEY, OF THE CORNELL UNIVERSITY, OR BY PROFESSOR BAILEY HIMSELF, AND IS READABLE, CLEAR-CUT AND PRACTICAL.
THE RURAL SCIENCE SERIES
Includes books which state the underlying principles of agriculture in plain language. They are suitable for consultation alike by the amateur or professional tiller of the soil, the scientist or the student, and are freely ill.u.s.trated and finely made.
The following volumes are now ready:
THE SOIL. By F. H. KING, of the University of Wisconsin. 303 pp. 45 ill.u.s.trations. 75 cents.
THE FERTILITY OF THE LAND. By I. P. ROBERTS, of Cornell University.
Fifth edition. 421 pp. 45 ill.u.s.trations. $1.25.
THE SPRAYING OF PLANTS. By E. G. LODEMAN, late of Cornell University.
399 pp. 92 ill.u.s.trations. $1.00.
MILK AND ITS PRODUCTS. By H. H. WING, of Cornell University. Fifth edition. 311 pp. 43 ill.u.s.trations. $1.00.
THE PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT-GROWING. By L. H. BAILEY. Fourth edition. 516 pp. 120 ill.u.s.trations. $1.25.
BUSH-FRUITS. By F. W. CARD, of Rhode Island College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts. Second edition. 537 pp. 113 ill.u.s.trations. $1.50.
FERTILIZERS. By E. B. VOORHEES, of New Jersey Experiment Station. Third edition. 332 pp. $1.00.
THE PRINCIPLES OF AGRICULTURE. By L. H. BAILEY. Third edition. 300 pp.
92 ill.u.s.trations. $1.25.
IRRIGATION AND DRAINAGE. By F. H. KING, University of Wisconsin. 502 pp.
163 ill.u.s.trations. $1.50.
THE FARMSTEAD. By I. P. ROBERTS. 350 pp. 138 ill.u.s.trations. $1.25.
RURAL WEALTH AND WELFARE. By GEORGE T. FAIRCHILD, Ex-President of the Agricultural College of Kansas. 381 pp. 14 charts. $1.25.
THE PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLE-GARDENING. By L. H. BAILEY 468 pp. 144 ill.u.s.trations. $1.25.
THE FEEDING OF ANIMALS. By W. H. JORDAN, of New York State Experiment Station. 450 pp. $1.25 net.
FARM POULTRY. By GEORGE C. WATSON, of Pennsylvania State College. 341 pp. $1.25 net.
New volumes will be added from time to time to the RURAL SCIENCE SERIES.
The following are in preparation:
PHYSIOLOGY OF PLANTS. By J. C. ARTHUR, Purdue University.
THE PRINCIPLES OF STOCK BREEDING. By W. H. BREWER, of Yale University.
PLANT PATHOLOGY. By B. T. GALLOWAY and a.s.sociates, of U. S. Department of Agriculture.
CARE OF ANIMALS. By N. S. MAYO, of Connecticut Agricultural College.
THE POME FRUITS (Apples, Pears, Quinces). By L. H. BAILEY.